Eggtimer Rocketry Holiday Sale

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thingiverse doesn't seem to want to work with me today but here is link to mine, its a little tight but it does work, no battery holder.

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Print updated, see https://www.rocketryforum.com/showt...r-Rocketry-Holiday-Sale&p=1744650#post1744650
 

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That's a cool design to add a Quantum to a sled! Which version of the Quantum is that (no idea if they changed) - the new A12f I just got seems to be about 61.25 x 20 mm for the spacing, with 3mm through holes. Good to see that's pretty close to what you got. Tough to measure to hole centers though so I was hoping Chris could chime in with the "word of god" value.
 
yea I had to turn it side ways to fit the avbay but its held up good so far.
It is a little tight I can tell that its not exact so hopefully he does say what it is and I can edit the stl and print a new one
 
Hi Locksmith. With tall components I usually put a small amount of silicone RTV in the area marked in white on the pic. It stops the tall components (transistors) flexing under vibration. If they flex enough they can eventually break off.
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Make sure you use NEUTRAL-CURE silicone!!! If it smells like vinegar don't use it! Check that the packaging specifies neutral-cure.

Your build is coming together nicely.
 
Hi Locksmith. With tall components I usually put a small amount of silicone RTV in the area marked in white on the pic. It stops the tall components (transistors) flexing under vibration. If they flex enough they can eventually break off.
View attachment 332911

Make sure you use NEUTRAL-CURE silicone!!! If it smells like vinegar don't use it! Check that the packaging specifies neutral-cure.

Your build is coming together nicely.
I've had good luck securing components in much more aggressive industrial applications with hot glue at the base in the same manner.

Sent from my HTC6535LVW using Rocketry Forum mobile app
 
I ordered the GPS upgrade for my Eggfinder LCD and two Quantums. I soldered up one of the Quantums yesterday and, despite my amateur soldering skills, it works! Thanks Cris for providing a quality product at a reasonable price, and an excuse for me to learn a new skill.
 
Eggtimer Rocketry's sale runs through the end of Cyber Monday... last chance to get electronics for all the kits you picked up over the weekend at ridiculous prices!

www.EggtimerRocketry.com

Cris Erving
Eggtimer Rocketry
 
Just placed my order. Gonna try the Mini GPS and will be adding the GPS Module to my LCD. Ordered some new tips for my Hakko 888.
 
An update...

We had a LOT of last minute Eggfinder Mini and LCD-GPS Module sales, they're both about twice what we estimated so of course we ran out of stock. Parts are on the way to take care of any that haven't shipped plus any non-paid orders plus some for what we expect to sell today. We expect to have these kitted and out the door by this time next week.

As usual, thanks for all your support!

Cris Erving
Eggtimer Rocketry
 
Quick question on the LCD-GPS module. I received my module and I am putting it together for my father-in-law as a Christmas present. I want to check out the module before I give it to him, but I do not have his receiver. I am assuming that I can connect a 1S battery to the 3.3V and ground points to power it up and check for a satellite fix via the LED. Just want to check to ensure I do not mess anything up.

Thanks!
 
Quick question on the LCD-GPS module. I received my module and I am putting it together for my father-in-law as a Christmas present. I want to check out the module before I give it to him, but I do not have his receiver. I am assuming that I can connect a 1S battery to the 3.3V and ground points to power it up and check for a satellite fix via the LED. Just want to check to ensure I do not mess anything up.

Thanks!

I wouldn't use a 1S, use two AA batteries (3V) instead. If you HAVE to use a 1S, put some kind of diode (like a 1N4001) in series to drop the voltage a little bit; the GPS module's rated maximum voltage is 3.6V.
 
I e-mailed my order for a whole bunch of stuff last night. With this price it was time to take the plunge to get setup with GPS location!

I can't get wait to get soldering! It sounds like the classic Eggtimer is the easiest to do followed by the Quantum, the the GPS devices...

Thanks for the exciting products and sale!
 
Thanks to everyone for making this a great sale! We're busy getting everything together to kit and ship out what we ran out of, thanks for your patience.

Cris Erving
Eggtimer Rocketry
 
Thanks to everyone for making this a great sale! We're busy getting everything together to kit and ship out what we ran out of, thanks for your patience.

Cris Erving
Eggtimer Rocketry
Thank you Cris. Package arrived yesterday. Now its time for soldering at work...

Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk
 
It sounds like the classic Eggtimer is the easiest to do followed by the Quantum, the the GPS devices...

And yet I managed to dork up the Eggtimer classic and nailed the Quantum on the first try. doh! That Quantum is neat! Just wish it came with a terminal block for the battery hookup. I really dislike soldering wires directly to the board. I've broken too many wires that way if I have to move them from one sled to another.
 
I picked up a mini gps but the wife won't let me have it until Christmas!!
 
And yet I managed to dork up the Eggtimer classic and nailed the Quantum on the first try. doh! That Quantum is neat! Just wish it came with a terminal block for the battery hookup. I really dislike soldering wires directly to the board. I've broken too many wires that way if I have to move them from one sled to another.
For the battery leads, a solder a wire with Male JST connector to the board and use the mating end for all of my batteries. This meant making a couple of 9V to JST cables but it means all of my sleds use the same power connector. I also use a Female JST from my altimeters to my switch.
 
And yet I managed to dork up the Eggtimer classic and nailed the Quantum on the first try. doh! That Quantum is neat! Just wish it came with a terminal block for the battery hookup. I really dislike soldering wires directly to the board. I've broken too many wires that way if I have to move them from one sled to another.

The new version of the Quantum loses the battery terminals but the deployment terminals are in one 4-pin block instead of two 2-pin blocks. This was done because we found that the 2-pin blocks tended to twist when the screws were tightened, which was a potential source of shorts or loose connections. We have not received any reports of that actually happening, but we like to be proactive. The 4-pin block doesn't move when you tighten the screws. We couldn't fit a 6-pin block (adding the battery) in the space allotted, so we decided to go with soldering the pigtails to the board instead. Personally, I like soldering the pigtails better anyway; solder doesn't come loose.
 
I like the soldered power leads. The only thing I had trouble with was that the holes were too small for the JSTs I had around already. I had to order some with smaller wires. Not the end of the world, but the larger wires are much more common.

I use a bit of hot glue as strain relief for the power leads. It holds well enough, but is easily removed with alcohol. Then zip ties on the sled for loose wires. It all held up fine for my L3 flight in 100F+ on the salt flats, good enough for me.
 
I like the soldered power leads. The only thing I had trouble with was that the holes were too small for the JSTs I had around already. I had to order some with smaller wires. Not the end of the world, but the larger wires are much more common.

I use a bit of hot glue as strain relief for the power leads. It holds well enough, but is easily removed with alcohol. Then zip ties on the sled for loose wires. It all held up fine for my L3 flight in 100F+ on the salt flats, good enough for me.

We enlarged the holes for the battery leads, too. Many of the JST pigtails are 20 ga wire, the eBay Chinese ones and the ones you see at a lot of hobby stores (presumably the same thing...) are 22 ga, which is what the old holes were sized for.
 
If you have not received your order yet, it's because you have a Quark or Quantum on it and I ran out of parts due to the last-minute crunch. Unfortunately, UPS has managed to stall on the parts order that I placed Thanksgiving weekend, it's been "out for delivery" from my local UPS depot every day since Dec. 1st. As soon as I get the parts you orders will go out. Thanks for your patience, my shipping guy is telling me that UPS has been exceptionally naughty this holiday season...

Cris Erving
Eggtimer Rocketry
 
Thanks for the update!

I just had a package from Fedex be out for delivery 8 time before they could find my house! I get things from amazon in like 1 or two days, but some of these bozos seem incompetent and like they don’t want the job.
 
The new version of the Quantum loses the battery terminals but the deployment terminals are in one 4-pin block instead of two 2-pin blocks. This was done because we found that the 2-pin blocks tended to twist when the screws were tightened, which was a potential source of shorts or loose connections. We have not received any reports of that actually happening, but we like to be proactive. The 4-pin block doesn't move when you tighten the screws. We couldn't fit a 6-pin block (adding the battery) in the space allotted, so we decided to go with soldering the pigtails to the board instead. Personally, I like soldering the pigtails better anyway; solder doesn't come loose.

Yeah, but wires break with routine jostling over time. True, with the economic prices of Electronics now, one can have a device for every rocket. Yes, for best security a "freshly" soldered together setup is great for that record screamer is perfect for that very first flight. After that the connections will start to get weak, especially if one is transferring the electronics from one rocket to another. Simply pulling a sled out strain the wires especially if they have a hard-wired switch on the switch band. If a wire breaks at a soldered connection, one better make sure they have a vacuum desoldering iron. Worst thing is having a wire break inside the insulation. Whatever one does, do not use a dollop of epoxy over a solder wire joint. Some type of removable glue is preferable.
Terminals can be inspected easily and the wire ends trimmed and freshened up as necessary. Terminals are mandatory for direct wired circuits. The metal eBay lids, with integrated charge holders that have a hole at the base, one can reinforce a plastic charge holder with the match wires coming out the base to be directly wired to the deployment device

With direct solder be prepared to desolder and with terminals be prepared to inspect the terminal wire joints a little more frequently in semi-permanent installations. Kurt
 
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