Nose cone conundrum (not what you think)

So say you wanted to dig the resin, u-bolt, and BB's out of this basswood nose cone. How would you do it?

If not wanting to save any parts other than the nose cone, cut off the ubolt near to the base of NC, and use a hole saw without pilot mounted in a drill press and core around the epoxy filled holes, then use a pair of vise-grips to grab the ubolt stubs and try to twist and pull the cores out. If you have drilled deep enough the core will snap off somewhere between bottom of the core drilled section and the base of the epoxy. Find a way to clamp the NC securely during the drilling operation though.

That's not a bad idea, but I don't know how I'd clamp it without tearing it up.

Strap wrench or ratchet strap?

That usually involves a couple of wood rings to clamp around the shoulder and then some stand-offs to keep the NC off the drill press table, supported on the clamp ring, then the whole thing clamped to the drill press table, OR, make a drill guide for the hole saw and screw it to the NC (using the hole saw drill a hole through a block of wood, then screw that block of wood into the base of the NC so you can use the predrilled hole as a pilot for the pilotless hole saw). Either way the NC needs to be held securely.

rharshberger said:

That usually involves a couple of wood rings to clamp around the shoulder and then some stand-offs to keep the NC off the drill press table, supported on the clamp ring, then the whole thing clamped to the drill press table, OR, make a drill guide for the hole saw and screw it to the NC (using the hole saw drill a hole through a block of wood, then screw that block of wood into the base of the NC so you can use the predrilled hole as a pilot for the pilotless hole saw). Either way the NC needs to be held securely.

Click to expand...

Drill lots of smaller holes around the perimeters and pry and gouge?

rharshberger said:

That usually involves a couple of wood rings to clamp around the shoulder and then some stand-offs to keep the NC off the drill press table, supported on the clamp ring, then the whole thing clamped to the drill press table, OR, make a drill guide for the hole saw and screw it to the NC (using the hole saw drill a hole through a block of wood, then screw that block of wood into the base of the NC so you can use the predrilled hole as a pilot for the pilotless hole saw). Either way the NC needs to be held securely.

Click to expand...

I like these ideas a lot. The clamp rings are doable, as are the stand offs. I also like the hole saw guides. But using a hole saw that way would require either a short drill blank, or I guess I could break the flutes off of a cheap drill bit.

rstaff3 said:

Drill lots of smaller holes around the perimeters and pry and gouge?

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That was my first thought. Or an end mill in a die grinder.

dhbarr said:

Strap wrench or ratchet strap?

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That would be more for keeping it from rotating.

qquake2k said:

So say you wanted to dig the resin, u-bolt, and BB's out of this basswood nose cone. How would you do it?

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I’d cut the loop off the u-bolt and then take a torch to the stubs. Once the epoxy burns you should be able to pull the stubs out.

Heat the u-bolt to drive heat into, and soften, the epoxy. Then slowly pull. If you let the shot get a bit warm too it should be easier to scrape or drill out.

OverTheTop said:

Heat the u-bolt to drive heat into, and soften, the epoxy. Then slowly pull. If you let the shot get a bit warm too it should be easier to scrape or drill out.

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Probably the best idea yet to try. Leaving the ubolt intact gives you something to get hold of and evenly/ alternately heating the ubolt legs may allow the ubolt to pull right out. The it would be a simple matter to drill ou the BB's and epoxy.

The u-bolt has nuts and washers on it. The resin would have to get pretty soft to be able to pull it out.

Nope. Didn't budge. Smells like a campfire in the garage, though.

What holds the threaded ends in? With the loop cut you should be able to unscrew them, right?

You did a really good job sticking that in, didn't you

Steve Shannon said:

What holds the threaded ends in? With the loop cut you should be able to unscrew them, right?

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Neither side will budge. Even if I could unscrew them, I don't see how that would help get the BB's and resin out.

https://www.rocketryforum.com/showt...um-(not-what-you-think)&p=1736556#post1736556

OverTheTop said:

You did a really good job sticking that in, didn't you

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Unfortunately. It looks like the resin soaked into the basswood. I'm thinking about trying a die grinder and end mill.

Now I just need a miniature chainsaw.

I think you need a bigger wrench and more heat. Unscrew the u-bolt, screw in a hex head bolt, then heat the head until it changes color. Then screw the bolt in so the threads force the nut, resin, and BBs out. You have the get the resin hot enough to destroy its integrity. You might want to shield the wood to prevent burning.



Steve Shannon

As long as you drilled below the bottom of the epoxy section you may be able to put vise grips or a vise to the ubolt and by twisting the NC snap the thin sections (or you could try drilling even more holes between the existing ones), the bottom of the hole wont be pretty but a forstner bit could be used to clean everything up.

Steve Shannon said:

I think you need a bigger wrench and more heat. Unscrew the u-bolt, screw in a hex head bolt, then heat the head until it changes color. Then screw the bolt in so the threads force the nut, resin, and BBs out. You have the get the resin hot enough to destroy its integrity. You might want to shield the wood to prevent burning.

Steve Shannon

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I don't think I can unscrew the "legs" of the u-bolt. They each have two nuts on them, that I tightened against each other with a toothed lockwasher between them, to lock them in place. I could use some aluminum tape to shield the wood, so I can heat the resin directly.

rharshberger said:

As long as you drilled below the bottom of the epoxy section you may be able to put vise grips or a vise to the ubolt and by twisting the NC snap the thin sections (or you could try drilling even more holes between the existing ones), the bottom of the hole wont be pretty but a forstner bit could be used to clean everything up.

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I'm hoping I can use the saw drill bit to cut between the holes.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HI5WTY/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

not sure if you could get enough depth from bit , might cut u bolt flush and drill hole for guide pin of circle cutter for each hole

a 1/4 lb. shape charge ought to do the trick
Rex

michigander said:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HI5WTY/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

not sure if you could get enough depth from bit , might cut u bolt flush and drill hole for guide pin of circle cutter for each hole

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I don't think a Dremel router would cut deep enough. The holes I drilled for the resin and BB's are 1-1/4" to 1-1/2" deep.

Rex R said:

a 1/4 lb. shape charge ought to do the trick
Rex

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I could pack BP in the 1/4" holes I drilled. LOL

qquake2k said:

I don't think I can unscrew the "legs" of the u-bolt. They each have two nuts on them, that I tightened against each other with a toothed lockwasher between them, to lock them in place. I could use some aluminum tape to shield the wood, so I can heat the resin directly.

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Ahhh, I see.
What’s the desired final outcome once you’ve removed the bolts, BBs, and resin? Are you going to want to put in another kind of eyebolt or something? Can you just cut these flush and abandon in place or are you trying to get back to the weight of just the basswood turning?
I know that if you apply enough heat you’ll be able to remove the parts. You’ll have charred holes but they can be drilled out.
You already drilled holes around the one. If you drilled deeply enough you should be able to chisel out the webs between the holes and then hit the stud sideways with a hammer and break the remaining column of wood at the bottom.
A core drill or a holesaw with the pilot bit removed would work, but holding it as you discussed before might be difficult without marring the wood.



Steve Shannon

I turned this nose cone for a short stubby project, that I have since abandoned. The stubby rocket required 12oz of nose weight for stability. I have decided to repurpose this for a Big Betty upscale. It would fly fine with the nose weight, but by removing the 12oz, I'll have more motor choices.