BELDAR, A Build Thread

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Glad you could join us Eric. I'll be back on track when my epoxy clay gets here. I wanted another option for fillets because I suck using mixed epoxy. Soon as that part gets done, I'll be ready to start installing the innards. Plus there was also some other projects on the burners that I needed to get under way and finished.
 
Glad you could join us Eric. I'll be back on track when my epoxy clay gets here. I wanted another option for fillets because I suck using mixed epoxy. Soon as that part gets done, I'll be ready to start installing the innards. Plus there was also some other projects on the burners that I needed to get under way and finished.

Glad to watch a master craftsman at work.
BTW don't forget the nitrile gloves (not latex) when handling the stuff (but you prolly already knew that). I didn't know any better and found out the hard way that you can develop an allergy to epoxy.
 
After a Holiday Hiatus, I finally cleared the project mess up and got my bench rocket ready again. I bought a few things this winter to assist in building the rest of Beldar and one of them was this Fix It” epoxy putty. The fins are so close together at the root, that I wanted to avoid using the usual epoxy because it would have been a complete mess. This worked out well for the application so I’m hoping it’s good on strength. This video helped me a lot.
[video=youtube;TD0s4H9X37Q]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TD0s4H9X37Q[/video]

The rest of the fins up against that aft CR will be glued with standard epoxy.

31.jpg

I did some sanding on the nose cone and that homemade shell/hardener is proving to be quite difficult to sand smooth. Presently, I have another nose cone I’m using as a test subject for some StryoSpray coating I also purchased for this. It’ll be a finishing coat that should smooth out the surface and create a much thicker durable surface once dried. Pic to come soon after completing the 3rd application. Lastly, I did a CA coating on the remainder of the BT 101 that wasn’t shielded with the aluminum tape. I wanted to strengthen the tube interior for any heat/burn issues that may occur during ejection.

32.jpg
 
Beldar lives, woohoo!

Those fillets look great. I don't know how good a fillet material Fixit epoxy clay actually is, but can see how that would have been incredibly tight quarters to try to lay down liquid epoxy fillets.

Waitin' to see the printed skin on the BT, that's gonna be a hoot.
 
Beldar lives, woohoo!

Those fillets look great. I don't know how good a fillet material Fixit epoxy clay actually is, but can see how that would have been incredibly tight quarters to try to lay down liquid epoxy fillets.

Waitin' to see the printed skin on the BT, that's gonna be a hoot.

I was going to do a little sanding on those clay fillets just to see how that goes. But forgot. Realistically, they don't need any. I used alcohol on my finger tip and smoothed them down really nice. LW was interested in knowing more about my experience with it too. Apparently he's interested in using it as well. I did get the rest of the fins done with the 5 min epoxy tonight and got a 2nd coat on that test nose cone. I made a foam cone much like a PNC 80-K but for a BT 101. I was going to give that to LW for Cmas this year but it has a lot of unevenness where the seams are. Not my best work, but at least it'll suffice as a guinea pig.
 
I was going to do a little sanding on those clay fillets just to see how that goes. But forgot. Realistically, they don't need any. I used alcohol on my finger tip and smoothed them down really nice. LW was interested in knowing more about my experience with it too. Apparently he's interested in using it as well. I did get the rest of the fins done with the 5 min epoxy tonight and got a 2nd coat on that test nose cone. I made a foam cone much like a PNC 80-K but for a BT 101. I was going to give that to LW for Cmas this year but it has a lot of unevenness where the seams are. Not my best work, but at least it'll suffice as a guinea pig.

Fix It is great stuff. I like how malleable it is--far easier for repairs and fillets or for sculpting patches, transitions, etc. than regular epoxy. Dries rock hard but still sands real easy if you need to.
 
I fed the Kevlar through the ¼” round duct in the ejection chamber and attached a Quick Link. Once I dry fitted the blast plate on, I wanted to do a test deployment with a chute attached. It was easy enough to get everything in place, so I yanked the motor mount out of the BT 101 and PRESTO! That chute popped out just like I knew it would. 2 more tests on that and I was confident enough to seal the blast plate in. Set aside to dry.

33.jpg

I got some modeling clay and measured about 1.5 ounces, balled it up and stuffed the nose weight hole. Laid some epoxy in and pushed my 1.5 oz lead slug in. Those heavy duty fishing weights are the cat’s a**! Set that aside to dry also.

Next in line was attaching the second lead of Kevlar to the motor mount. At first I wasn’t sure what would serve best, until I figured on a couple zip ties. I frayed the end of the Kevlar and zip tied above it in 2 places. The frayed end was going to get epoxied on the inside of the aft CR. Once I got all pieces mounted and trimmed off the pointy bits on the cut zip ties, I laid on the epoxy. I built a glue mound on both zip locks so everything would be smooth inside and avoid snagging a chute during deployment. I may go back after it dries and do a second helping.

34.jpg
 
Fix It is great stuff. I like how malleable it is--far easier for repairs and fillets or for sculpting patches, transitions, etc. than regular epoxy. Dries rock hard but still sands real easy if you need to.

I do want to go back and smooth my fillets now that they're dry. I have a new sanding rod drying as we speak. I usually wrap and glue sandpaper around a dowel for those.
 
OK, so now I have to figure out what gets glued next. The nose cone, the 101 assembly, or the aft CR. I knew I’d need to glue the nose in first if I was going to mount the 101 assembly, but then I would have to hope and pray I got the aft CR in without going too far. Dry fitting pretty much decided on that note, so low and behold, the CR goes first. This got mounted with 30 minute epoxy and stood upright. Once it dries, I will at least be able to get an inside fillet on it if need be. I sure laid it on thick so I may not need to. I had some left over epoxy so I used it on the zip ties. I’ll go back shortly and make sure I don’t have any nefarious runs of epoxy anywhere, then since I already have a block on the lathe, maybe I’ll turn a Von Karman nose cone. It's for a plan I drew up for my Mystic Djinn. Oooooooh!!!!

35.jpg
 
Next on the list was knocking off that lug and flushing it up to the nose cone. Mr. Dremel sho nuff came in handy for that. And a rat tail file. I thought it wise to fill around the edge just in case my poor eyes didn’t see something and left it alone for the night.

First thing I did this evening was sanding it smooth. That worked out very well.

36.jpg

Man…..I really am not good at handling more than a dab or so of epoxy. I know I must have used a ¼ cup or so in some really awkward ways. Gluing the nose cone was a snap. But when it came time to install that 101, OH LAWD! I had to get enough inside of the cone where the blast shield rests and when I started coating that 101, IT GOT EVERYWHERE!. I’m not used to gluing the outside of one of those and trying to get it inside the rocket neatly. Then there was the build-up forming around the end of it at the aft CR and I was trying to keep it from running off on the sides. Once I finally got it in there, I had to smooth out what mooshed up on the outside of the CR and even it out. With my finger of course. I really didn’t plan well enough for this installation, but I did survive it without screwing things up. Just took forever to get that stuff off my hands.

37.jpg
 
Okie Doke! Time to see if this all fits together. And it does, except for it’s getting a little bound up. Feels like parts and pieces have swollen. I’m sure that’s not the reason, but it looks like I’ll be doing some sanding to relieve some of the tight spots. It’s not a big deal in the long run, just another little fixer I gotta tend to. Got some filler on that nose seam and that’s drying. Basically the main construction is done. Tweaks here and there and some more touch up sanding and I’ll be ready to seal those fins. Hmmmmm….what to use on that I wonder?

38.jpg
 
Nifty, seeing Dan Ackroyd’s goofy Beldar face flying through the air should make the epoxy-pocalypse worth all the hassle.
 
Nifty, seeing Dan Ackroyd’s goofy Beldar face flying through the air should make the epoxy-pocalypse worth all the hassle.

Really! I just hope it all hasn't been in vain. I admit, this is truly not my norm for an odd-rock and stability could seriously be an issue. On the other hand, I've seen some stupider looking rockets fly that looked like they didn't have a chance in hell.

Dan's face on the finish is going to kill me regardless if it flies or not. It'll certainly be something to laugh about.
 
Beldar to Gary: "When my people come to colonize this planet, you will be on the protected rolls, and no harm will come to you."
 
Really! I just hope it all hasn't been in vain. I admit, this is truly not my norm for an odd-rock and stability could seriously be an issue. On the other hand, I've seen some stupider looking rockets fly that looked like they didn't have a chance in hell.

Dan's face on the finish is going to kill me regardless if it flies or not. It'll certainly be something to laugh about.

I think if I can get a "can" of "bug spray" to fly, you can get this to fly. Your cone is a lot more aerodynamic than my nosecone is.
 
I think if I can get a "can" of "bug spray" to fly, you can get this to fly. Your cone is a lot more aerodynamic than my nosecone is.

And said nose cone, is hanging upside down (with airframe attached of course) awaiting it's first layer of Styrospray. WOO HOO!
 
LW told me to seal those fins then sand & prime. So they got sealed Friday evening and the nose got some more sanding done. The seam is well patched at this point and I wanted to get the motor mount assembly sanded and tweaked for the extra tight fit I was getting, Finally nailed all the little problem areas and while I was fitting it in the forward section, the whole nose assembly slipped right out of my hand and hit the carpeted floor with a pretty loud “THUNK!”
Of course I had one of those “OH S#$T” moments. Close observation revealed nary even a fracture. YEAH BUDDY!!! It was a good 4.5’ drop dead on the top of the cone too. I finished sanding all the fins and CR as well. OH, and I dressed the part while working this evening.

39.jpg

Earlier in the week, I designed a hanger of sorts from one of my bar clamps so I could suspend the nose and airframe upside down for when I was ready to apply the Styrospray. This is some really good stuff to cover Styrofoam, not to mention a great number of other things. The video is a little windy so if you are interested, it shows how durable this stuff is.

[video=youtube;f5bBQY_lma0]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f5bBQY_lma0[/video]

I probably wouldn’t be using this stuff except for the foam nose cone. I plan to test it on some primed balsa fins to see how slick I can make them. If I get started early enough tomorrow, I should be able to get two good coats of this stuff on.
 
Where are you getting the Styrospray, what size containers does it come in and how much is it?

Straight from the manufacturer. They don't use alternate sales outlets. It's a 2 qt. kit. $32.12 + Shipping 13.50 = $47.22. (larger quantities are also available)
A bit pricey I know. For the purpose I had for it, the Styrospray 1000 was the best option. They have a lot of other blends. I recommend you visit the web site to get the whole story on this stuff. It doesn't stink, it's flexible, dries in 4-5 hours, paintable with many different types of paint. And you should prolly use some big syringes to portion out what you need. 1 to 1 ratio on the product. You can brush it on or roll it on,even pour it on if that's your set up. But it can be messy. Floods very well too. Brush strokes disappear in just a minute or two. It will run and drip so using paper underneath is necessary. They will send you a sample for the asking. Delivery time was adequate.

Industrial Polymers, Inc.
3250 S. Sam Houston Pkwy. E.
Houston, Tx. 77047
E-mail: [email protected]
Toll Free: 800-766-3832
Ph: 713-943-8451 ext. 105
Fax: 713-943-1525
Web: www.industrialpolymers.com
 
I got the second coat of Styrospray on this evening, but not without having to do some sanding. Not sure why I didn’t get runs like this on the test nose cone. Fortunately it sands fairly well. One thing I’m liking is how it’s covering the slight imperfections I didn’t get sanded out beforehand. I’ll probably go with a total of 4 or 5 coats depending on the overall coverage. In the video, he uses a roller on that big balloon dog whereas I’m brushing it on. You’re supposed to be able to use them both. I may see if I still have one of those mini rollers or just go get one. I’m sure I could even out the coats better. The fins/motor mount are ready for primer next sunny day we get. The rain and humidity dominates my efforts and we’re getting a lot of it.

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What with a really busy weekend here doing 5 rockets in different phases, I was able to get this far with Beldar. The weather hasn’t been to favorable for painting until now and that got the booster/fin can past being primed and coated with a white base coat. I know you’re thinking, “Why didn’t he just use white primer”, and the answer to that is, I can see my boo boo’s better with a darker primer. Few days curing and that’ll be ready for paint.

The rest of it got a good sanding because my Styrospray had runs in it. That got done and it got primed. That Styrospray isn’t that easy to sand either. Had to use the palm sander over all and went back with some thin foam sanding pads that bend pretty easy. It’s not going to be a perfectly smooth surface. I’m sure Beldar Conehead doesn’t have one of those either.

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The cone looks like it came out fantastic.

Thanks. It'll take on another look once that's sanded too. I'll do a white base paint on that and probably start mixing colors to match the skin tone to Beldar's face. Looks like I'll be using auto paint on that. Still uncertain what kind of fin color will look good with flesh and black.....
 
Styrospray looks like some pretty amazing stuff. I've heard BSI Finish Cure Epoxy also cures rock hard in 20 minutes to a glassy finish, is easy to sand if you need to, and 1 or 2 coats seals the grain in balsa faster and better than sanding sealer. Are you familiar with the stuff? I'm thinking of giving it a try since I'm not a big fan of spending hours sanding and sealing balsa.
 
No, but I'm always interested in finding a way to harden fins and decrease all those layers that need sanding. I'll look into that also. Thanks.
 
I've heard BSI Finish Cure Epoxy also cures rock hard in 20 minutes to a glassy finish, is easy to sand if you need to, and 1 or 2 coats seals the grain in balsa faster and better than sanding sealer.
Uh, not sure about that "cures rock hard in 20 minutes" claim. Even BSI's summary page says to wait 8 hours for full cure. Some reviews on Amazon said it takes any longer.

That said, it might still be a good option. If you do try it out, please post your results. How do you apply it? How many coats needed? How much weight does it add? Apply before or after assembly? Etc.

BTW, if you're doing LPR, I still recommend papering as a *much easier* way to achieve smooth fins. I've documented my technique with Avery label paper a number of times in my build threads (I'll dig up links if you want). I find it to be *so much faster and easier*, and it adds a good amount of strength as well. It doesn't work in all situations and it does add some weight, but it has become my first option.

Gary Byrum said:
Still uncertain what kind of fin color will look good with flesh and black.....

Their official garb seems to be pearl-white...
160322_3006757_The_Coneheads_at_Home.jpg


...but black is an option as well:
16466501_5.jpg


Dunno whether you want to try to work in the designs from the garments at all.
 
BTW, if you're doing LPR, I still recommend papering as a *much easier* way to achieve smooth fins. I've documented my technique with Avery label paper a number of times in my build threads (I'll dig up links if you want). I find it to be *so much faster and easier*, and it adds a good amount of strength as well. It doesn't work in all situations and it does add some weight, but it has become my first option.

Their official garb seems to be pearl-white...
...but black is an option as well:
Dunno whether you want to try to work in the designs from the garments at all.

I suck at papering. I get annoyed when I can't get something right by the 3rd attempt. I botch every paper job I do. Must not be my bag man.

Secondly, There won't be a lot of Beldar's coat in the paint job. Most of those little gold/silver decos are off the print. I will airbrush the back with his coat but it's pretty plain Jane from the pictures I am using. Imagine the outline I drew in the front view, as if it were on the back view. Pretty muck all black. That's where "black fins" cause an overkill on the black suggestion. Also, I'll be matching what my printer spits out so it may not be "pearl white".

Beldar front & back.jpg
 
No, but I'm always interested in finding a way to harden fins and decrease all those layers that need sanding. I'll look into that also. Thanks.

Uh, not sure about that "cures rock hard in 20 minutes" claim. Even BSI's summary page says to wait 8 hours for full cure. Some reviews on Amazon said it takes any longer.

That said, it might still be a good option. If you do try it out, please post your results. How do you apply it? How many coats needed? How much weight does it add? Apply before or after assembly? Etc.

BTW, if you're doing LPR, I still recommend papering as a *much easier* way to achieve smooth fins. I've documented my technique with Avery label paper a number of times in my build threads (I'll dig up links if you want). I find it to be *so much faster and easier*, and it adds a good amount of strength as well. It doesn't work in all situations and it does add some weight, but it has become my first option.



Their official garb seems to be pearl-white...

Here's some convo/info re: Finish Cure from FBs Model Rocketry Fanatics group: https://bit.ly/2FaYqsF
 
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