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I just got my level 1 certification on a Loki 38/480. I plan on expanding my collection :)

Really the only thing I'm trying to decide is whether to do my level 2 cert on 38 or 54...
 
Happy to say I'm fortunate to have a great local dealer and have acquired several 38 and 54 cases. I'm looking forward to some awesome flights next season!
 
I just got my level 1 certification on a Loki 38/480. I plan on expanding my collection :)

Really the only thing I'm trying to decide is whether to do my level 2 cert on 38 or 54...

If you plan to stay with for awhile and have the flight venue, 54 is a reasonable way to go though Scott has some mild to wild 38's one could consider for L2 if wanting to perhaps be more economical of attaining the cert. Kurt
 
I'm sorry but I do not ship to Canada yet.

If I ever did make 29mm reloads, they would likely be G & hammerhead I motors. Don't wait on me though. ;-)
 
If I ever did make 29mm reloads, they would likely be G & hammerhead I motors. Don't wait on me though. ;-)

Have you seen the movie "Misery" ? ;)

im-your-number-one-fan.jpg
 
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Have you seen the movie "Misery" ? ;)

im-your-number-one-fan.jpg

I have a couple questions for Annie and the rest of you.

1) Do you have to sand and clean off burrs from the ends of your commercial reload liners, and if so, what brands and motor sizes are they?

2) If you have to do this, is a turn-off for you, something you wish you didn't have to do in order to use the product?

3) Do you place any more value in products for which this is not necessary or perhaps any less value in those products that it is required?

Thank you
 
I have a couple questions for Annie and the rest of you.

1) Do you have to sand and clean off burrs from the ends of your commercial reload liners, and if so, what brands and motor sizes are they?

2) If you have to do this, is a turn-off for you, something you wish you didn't have to do in order to use the product?

3) Do you place any more value in products for which this is not necessary or perhaps any less value in those products that it is required?

Thank you


I have not personally had issues with burrs on commercial liners. My biggest gripe is the adhesive labels on Aerotech's liners. They need to come off, but don't come off easily.
 
I have a couple questions for Annie and the rest of you.

1) Do you have to sand and clean off burrs from the ends of your commercial reload liners, and if so, what brands and motor sizes are they?

2) If you have to do this, is a turn-off for you, something you wish you didn't have to do in order to use the product?

3) Do you place any more value in products for which this is not necessary or perhaps any less value in those products that it is required?

Thank you

1 - I have had to sand and deburr Aerotech liners in all sizes but mostly 75 and 98 of late. Never had to with CTI or, of course, Loki Research liners in any size.
2 - It is a turn off for sure. Seems like a product quality issue to me. I'd rather not waste the time doing it but will if I have to.
3 - I'm not sure if I'd pay more for a product that I didn't have to clean up before loading but if all prices were equal I'd choose the best quality product based on availability.
 
I have not had to deburr any liners to date & that includes all Loki, AT & 75mm CTI reloads.
Only problem I have yet to encounter is with the AT 75mm reloads. Have to remove the glassine layer from the grains otherwise they won’t fit into liner (or get stuck ☹ ).
 
Yea, I'd be down for that in a big way. I am pretty much only interested in 29mm motors theses day which puts me out of Loki. Maybe one day Scott, you'll see your way to cranking out some 29mm loads.


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I have a couple questions for Annie and the rest of you.

1) Do you have to sand and clean off burrs from the ends of your commercial reload liners, and if so, what brands and motor sizes are they?

2) If you have to do this, is a turn-off for you, something you wish you didn't have to do in order to use the product?

3) Do you place any more value in products for which this is not necessary or perhaps any less value in those products that it is required?

Thank you

I usually scrape the inner lip of the liner with a knife/hard object in order to knock down any roughness, etc. Primarily AT 38/54mm stuff.
It's less than ideal, and I might gripe about it from time to time, but provided the grains fit into the liner and the liner into the case, I'm good.
There is a marginal additional value, but I don't think I would seek out or avoid a product just because I do or do not need to remove a liner burr. Where price and performance are equal, yes, I would choose a product where this would not be necessary over one where deburring was needed.

-e
 
More steps = more time, which just blows.
On AT loads, I typically have to clean them up to get the FSD in without messing up the oring

Its not something that stops me from getting loads, but it's another step.
 
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This

Until this thread I'd never even realized I do it automatically

Me too. Deburring the end is just automatic. What does suck is if you need to sand the liner to make it fit in the motor. Had to do that a couple of times. A true time waster.


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Me too. Deburring the end is just automatic. What does suck is if you need to sand the liner to make it fit in the motor. Had to do that a couple of times. A true time waster.


Sent from my iPhone using Rocketry Forum

I've got Dr. Rocket cases and had to sand a couple of the liners for the 38/480 case. I had gotten another reload that wouldn't fit and asked my friend to try his AT 38/480 case. It dropped right into that case. I have since purchased another 38/480 case, an AT one this time. Had to take the metallic label off to get it to fit in the MMT, but I don't sand liners any longer.
 
I've got Dr. Rocket cases and had to sand a couple of the liners for the 38/480 case. I had gotten another reload that wouldn't fit and asked my friend to try his AT 38/480 case. It dropped right into that case. I have since purchased another 38/480 case, an AT one this time. Had to take the metallic label off to get it to fit in the MMT, but I don't sand liners any longer.

I just recently stumbled on this, too. ALL of my Dr. Rockets 38mm cases are tighter than contemporary Monster or AT cases. All of my newer AT cases are very easy on liner install/removal.
 
Thanks for the feedback on the liner ends. Everything you do making reloads takes time and I am always looking for ways to cut down on time without cutting down on quality. As many of you know, Loki liners have always come with the ends sanded. So after cutting up a bunch of 38mm liners last week, I wanted to ask the question out of curiosity to see how many noticed or cared.

I also wanted to take a moment to let everyone know that the Loki Web store has been reopened today. Our dealers are very well stocked so if you see that I am out of something, chances are the they have them all. ;-)
 
Scott - Are your J1026's & K627's still really out of stock? I have a rocket I'm building for them. :)
 
Scott - Are your J1026's & K627's still really out of stock? I have a rocket I'm building for them. :)

Yes, they really are out of stock. The best thing to do when ordering direct or through dealers on out of stock products is to send an email with a "request to receive by date" so that production can be scheduled better to meet customers needs if at all possible. Just don't email both the dealer and myself direct because that could easily cause a situation where I think that double the order is needed and it could potentially delay delivery. Pick your supplier and stay there please. It makes things easier on everyone.

I am not 100% certain but I believe that both Chris and Teddy have those reloads.
 
Scott - Are your J1026's & K627's still really out of stock? I have a rocket I'm building for them. :)

Where are you Groucho ??


i bet Teddy and Chris each have enough in stock to put a small cat in orbit.

I have enough of them to make a medium size feline need a pressure suit and space helmet...
I'm trying to be the main reason Scott is out O stock,, lol...


Teddy
 
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