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  1. #1
    Join Date
    4th October 2014
    Posts
    657

    Star Wars Droid Paper Templates: R2-D2 and Chopper

    Watching episodes of Star Wars Rebels got me to thinking of scratch building a droid rocket of Chopper (C1-10P), not sure if I have seen one of those yet, there have been a few BB-8s out there (Sputnik-style). Looking around for some printable templates I came across these for R2-D2 and Chopper. I was thinking they might be suitable starting points for converting to 13 or 18 mm model rockets, I guess you could scale up to 24mm or larger if you wanted.

    Just wanted to share the templates here, lots of free templates on paper-replika.com though many of you paper modelers probably have come across that site in the past anyway.

    http://paper-replika.com/index.php?o...&Itemid=200144

    http://paper-replika.com/index.php%3...temid%3D207717

    not my builds, picture from the website: (these ARE the droids I was looking for...)


    With templates like this I sometimes print on regular white copy paper, then glue stick that to cardstock for a little extra strength (compared to printing on cardstock directly). For conversion to a model rocket, I might add fins and/or a longer through tube with nose cone protruding out the top with nose weight.


  2. #2
    Join Date
    2nd October 2014
    Location
    N. California, USA
    Posts
    215
    Cool! Thanks for the links! My kid & I really enjoy Star Wars Rebels as there are some really good plots and story development. It has gotten progressively darker leading up to its final season (yet to be aired). The Ghost (main ship) and Chopper make brief cameos in Star Wars Rogue One.

    I was thinking of making a Chopper rocket but haven't thought far enough how to get him to fly straight. Giant, mosquito-like swept fins (transparent or opaque) would work but would look a little odd. Any ideas?

    LUNAR #2688, launches scrubbed, T minus 10 and holding indefinitely...

  3. #3
    Join Date
    4th October 2014
    Posts
    657
    in the Estes versions of R2-D2 kits they use clear fins that plug into the bottoms of the side feet. I am thinking along similar lines, but maybe using balsa fins kind of like the remove-after-flight flame fins used in Dr. Zooch Shuttle and SLS type kits, not necessarily painted like flames, a simple solid yellow or a light grey helps them to not stand out much. They can be either square or swept fins, the mosquito fin shapes are a good idea, put two in each side at 120-deg from each other, not sure how large they need to be, I will probably oversize them for conservatism. I was watching DVDs from Season Three and Forrest Whitaker's character from Rouge One made an appearance, pretty nice tie in. I would probably make the central foot for display only on an engine casing/coupler size tube that can be removed from the engine mount tube for flight, similar to the fin units on tubes with centering rings that slide into tubes in the side legs for flight.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    4th October 2014
    Posts
    657
    This paper model is much more challenging than any cardstock rocket models I have done before. Including the Dr. Zooch Shuttle. Lots of detail in the legs. I thought I could handle it, but man this is going to be very time consuming. Tip: score along the bend lines to get clean bends, before you cut the parts out. My seams are not going to be perfect on this one. But everytime I attempt one of these builds I tell myself it is just practice, I can probably do better the on the second or third build. Still working out how to put an engine mount and removable fin units on this thing.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    4th October 2014
    Posts
    657
    The Story So Far:

    The 13mm through tube might be kind of small, might use a 24mm tube and then a 13mm engine mount, to have more space for a streamer or chute. Lots of little detail parts on the legs remaining to do. The template has the legs and feet at an angle, there is a wedge-shaped ankle part - #20 on the sheet, but I will have to modify that to keep them straight for the fins I plans to attach to the bottom of the feet.

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  6. #6
    Join Date
    4th October 2014
    Posts
    657
    The details on these legs are exhausting. Maybe not that pretty, but will look decent enough from the launch pad. I need a smaller set of tweezers, and higher magnification reading glasses. Don't ask how I rolled those paper dowels, they are smaller diameter than a standard launch lug. Still working out an alternative to the angled ankles and the removable fin units...

    Click image for larger version. 

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    The cardboard centering rings add a bit too much weight for 13mm engines, so I will probably put in an 18mm engine mount in a 24mm through tube. Hopefully a C6-3 should handle it by the time I add the fins. The body is so short, there is barely enough length in the through tube for the engine and the nose-cone shoulder, so I won't be putting any streamer or chute inside the through tube, I will have to make room for recovery/shock cord in the space between the outside tube and the engine mount tube.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    4th October 2014
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    657
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Starting to take shape...decided to use a 18 mm engine mount tube, that is about all you can fit in there. Instead of a centering ring at the top I cut out a large center to make a top compartment for recovery stuff.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    4th October 2014
    Posts
    657
    I added some launch lugs to the ankles to reinforce those joints, rolled them from an extra print of the foot parts. Those are 13mm body tube receptacles in the bottom of the feet. I know what you are thinking, but no this is not the cluster rocket you are looking for, those are for the removable fins units TBD.

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    cute little rocket. Now, I am going to have to make the R2-D2 version next... maybe they can use the same fin units. I will probably cover this with some clear semi-gloss.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    2nd October 2014
    Location
    N. California, USA
    Posts
    215
    Nice! If you wanted to blend or hide the white seams, it's been suggested to color them in with matching marker colors.
    Looking forward to more!
    LUNAR #2688, launches scrubbed, T minus 10 and holding indefinitely...

  10. #10
    Join Date
    27th March 2013
    Location
    Has Changed
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    9,207
    Quote Originally Posted by grapetang View Post
    Nice! If you wanted to blend or hide the white seams, it's been suggested to color them in with matching marker colors.
    Looking forward to more!
    Remember to test the inks first on some scraps.

    Another idea would be to use colored pencils.
    Dreaming of making the rockets I dreamed of as a kid (and then some).


    NAR L1 Cert flight: Sheridan, Oregon, USA. Sept. 19, 2015. Flew Deep Space OFFl on an I357T-14A Blue Thunder

  11. #11
    Join Date
    4th October 2014
    Posts
    657
    This C1-10P pattern uses mostly lap joints, those joints are hard to get accurate especially when you are working with a copy-paper/cardstock laminate. If you score too hard then the copy paper rips, and if not hard enough then you don’t get a crisp bend. The R2-D2 pattern uses more butt joints for the larger parts on the body and dome, where the glue tab itself is cut out as a separate part, you glue half of it to one edge, then the other half when closing the joint, making the seam as a flat joint on the outside. Sometimes I do try to sharpie the edge of the paper to color match the pattern after I cut it out and before glueing, but the glue can make those colors run a little. I considered this one a practice build and you can even see the yellow card stock showing through in some edges, but it gives a nice contrast to the green in the pattern, looks like Chopper’s primer is showing where his paint has been rubbed off, you know?

  12. #12
    Join Date
    4th October 2014
    Posts
    657
    I think the R2-D2 model might be a little easier, I should have done that one first. I will try to make it compatible with the same fins, these will be removable friction fit:

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  13. #13
    Join Date
    4th October 2014
    Posts
    657
    another tip: don't apply glue to the glue tab where it says "put glue here," put the glue on the inside of the part where the glue tab will attach to. Always easier to handle a part with glue on the inside than glue on the outside. Anyone who has built a paper model knows what I am talking about here, or else let me guess what your favorite Rolling Stones album is...

  14. #14
    Join Date
    4th October 2014
    Posts
    657
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Are you having trouble with your droid?

    No, no trouble at all.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    4th October 2014
    Posts
    657
    A few more pictures showing the internal rocket parts. The mandrel for rolling the engine mount tube is two spent engine casings glue sticked to a wrap of copy paper, this gives just the right tolerance for a snug but not too tight fit of the engine in the cardstock tube. Not much open space inside the through tube for recovery stuff, so I am leaving out a centering ring on the top of the main body to leave some open area in between the body tubes. A few more detailed parts remain for the shoulders and the feet. Dry fit stack up, starting to look like a droid. This is definitely the easier of the two droid paper models.

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  16. #16
    Join Date
    4th October 2014
    Posts
    657

    missing glue tabs on shoulders

    Click image for larger version. 

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    so, one thing I discovered on the printable template for the R2-D2 shoulders (or hips if those are legs instead of arms I guess), are a couple of missing glue tabs. Maybe not essential, but adds some strength and helps to assemble the part.


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