Problem with rail button backing

NateLowrie said:

Also, they are great for sealing the hole your wires pass through in the av-bay bulkheads. Just drill the hole a little bigger to account for the wires. They eliminate the need for terminal blocks on the outside of the bulk plate.

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CzTeacherMan said:

I think I saw that once but forgot about it. Maybe on my next av-bay.
I usually just drill a hole and pass the e-match through and seal it with poster putty. Well-nut would be a sweet idea... Hmmmmmmmmm... Thanks for the tip!

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NateLowrie said:

I got the idea from missileworks. https://www.missileworks.com/store/#!/~/product/category=5760489&id=38076738

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CzTeacherMan said:

I think I saw that once but forgot about it. Maybe on my next av-bay.
I usually just drill a hole and pass the e-match through and seal it with poster putty. Well-nut would be a sweet idea... Hmmmmmmmmm... Thanks for the tip!

Click to expand...

CzTeacherMan said:

A well nut is a rubber flanged piece... Still a hole, stick it in the hole, it doesn't fall through because of the top flange. Put the button on top. Put a screw through the rail button and into the well nut. As you tighten the screw, it pulls the rubber up to the inside of the airframe, snug as you make it. Tighten all the way, you've sealed the hole and pulled the rail button tight against the airframe. No need for any glue at all. Just a hole big enough for the well nut.
Yes, they go inside, but there's no need to mount them in any way during construction.

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Bat-mite said:

Ya learned me sumpin'! I had no idea they went in from the outside. I thought they poked out from the inside and you screw into the narrow end.

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rharshberger said:

I use well nuts for wire pass throughs in my av-bay lids, I use a flat needle file to cut a slot into the edge of the hole and tuck the wire into to keep it from getting pinched too tightly. The slot does not seem to affect sealing as I get no pressure spike on the altimeter data or residue on the interior of the av-bay.
As mentioned earlier well nuts also work well for new installation/retro-fitting rail buttons.

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