Help on selecting a first two stage high power rocket kit

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Hi Everyone,

Sorry that I wasn't able to respond to a few questions in a timely manner. My computer's mother board and hard drive mysteriously fried after restating the computer after a Microsoft update. Our company IT Guy had to get me a new computer.

Someone asked what avionics I was going to be using. I am waiting for Vern Knowles, multitronix.com, the maker of the "Kate" GPS tracker unit to release his staging altimeter. Vern's altimeter's initiall specs can be found on his website. This unit has a built in shunt, an attitude sensor that will prevent the sustainer from firing if the sustainer is angled too many degrees off of vertical. The staging unit has a staging seperation charge firing function. The unit also has a primary and secondary firing function for both the drouge and main parachutes. Vern's unit will communicate with the Kate unit. The Kate unit will then provide realtime data to your Kate ground receiver about all of the altimeter's functions.

In the booster I will have a Missile Works simple RRC2+ to fire off the drouge parachute at apogee. I will use the motor charge as a backup. The Missile Works RTx GPS System will provide tracking for the booster. I was going to use the Missile Works PET2+ in the booster to fire off the separation charge. Unfortunately I cannot fit the RRC2, RTx GPS Tracker, and the PET2+ all into the 54 mm Wildman interstage AV Bay.

Tim at Wildman recommended that I not redesign his kits interstage. Since this is my first high power two stage I am following his advice. I had a choice of either fitting the Missile Works GPS Tracker or the PET2+ with the altimeter. Since the Multitronix stager has a seperation charge firing capacity, I will fire off the seperation charge from the sustainer. There was enough room in the sustainer to install a second 3/16" break line tube to snake down a feeder wire for the seperation charge.

Unfortunately I didn't have time to start a build thread for this project. However I can mention a few modifications that I made to the Wildman 3" two stage kit. Someone might find them useful. First off the kit comes with only two thin fiberglass motor centering rings for each stage. Tim's 2009 online instructions show three motor centering rings. I purchased three 1/2" plywood centering rings for each stage from Tim at Wildman.

The thick plywood rings are easier to properly lineup for alignment purposes. They also provide a greater mating surface for the epoxy. By using three centering rings instead of two, I was able to build the booster with internal fin to motor tube and fin to booster tube fillets. I'm sure that Tim's internal injection fillet method works fine. However I was just more comfortable securing the fins in the traditional method. I was also able to fill the boosters fin can with expanding foam.

Wildman provides a Kevlar strap for a parachute attachment point. Tim's instructions have you file a notch in the motor centering rings. Wildman then tells you to epoxy the Kevlar strap to both sides of the motor tube. I'm sure that this works fine. However I like Mike Crupe's attachment method better. Mike is the owner of MAC Performance. I have five of his kits. If you haven't tried building one of his kits you should. The fit of all of the components in Mike's kits is amazing.

MAC Performance uses a notch in a 3/8" plywood centering ring. A Kevlar Harness strap with a small loop on one end and a larger loop on the parachute side of the Harness is provided in his kits. A steel pin is epoxied through the small loop and notch in the centering ring. This produces an upside down "T" which is trapped under the forward centering ring, body tube, and motor tube.

On my two stage 3" Wildman build I purchased two of the MAC Performance Harness attachment systems. I epoxied the MAC Performance Harness centering ring on top of the 1/2" Wildman plywood centering ring. This gave me a 7/8" plywood forward centering ring. My Kevlar Harness is completely epoxied into this massive ring. The main benefit of this Harness attachment method is that it is way less messy than the Wildman method. A second benefit is that there isn't a lot of extra real estate on the motor tube when you are installing three fins, two 3/16" brake lines and the two Kevlar straps.

All the best,
Bob
 
Hi Everyone,

I just thought that I would post a quick update. My Wildman 3" two stage kit is almost completed. The booster section has been painted. I named the rocket "Vertical Lighting". You don't see vertical lighting very often. I've only witnessed vertical lighting once while I was flying a Mooney Bravo down to Florida in the summer. Air Traffic Control routes you down a Victor Airway that is just over the eastern Florida coast above the Atlantic Ocean. There were massive thunderstorms over the Florida mainland. I witnessed a massive bolt of lighting shoot upward from the cloud tops high into the clear sky above the storm.

Mark at Stickershock made up some awesome decals for the build. I want to thank Jim at Missile Works. Jim answered many questions via email and phone calls. With Jim's advice and a lot of trial fittings, I was able to fit two Missile Works RRC2's and their RTx GPS Tracker into the 9" 54 mm AV Bay that Wildman provides with the kit. That isn't easy when you have to add three batteries too!

The IT Tech is coming into our office next week. I will have him show me how to upload some photos.

All the best,
Bob
 
Hi Gentlemen,

I have completely finished the build on the 3" Wildman two stage rocket. Now I could use some assistance from one of the Jim Guru's. After downloading the Rocksim file from the Wildman Website I noticed a couple of problems. Either the Rocksim software doesn't do all you would like on two stage rockets, or the Rocksim file that was produced by Wildman is not complete.

My Wildman's booster has two altimeters in the inter-stage. One is set to fire at the first stage's apogee. The second altimeter is set to fire at apogee plus one second. The Rocksim file for this rocket doesn't have a box to check off for this deployment sequence. The Rocksim only allows you to fire off an altimeter at booster motor burnout or motor burnout plus X seconds. I was hoping that the software could simulate an actual flight. While the altimeters in real world will safely deploy the parachute at apogee, we should be able to accurately simulate at what time and altitude it will deploy.

Problem two is that the Rocksim file for this rocket only has one parachute in the second stage section. It should have two. One for the drogue parachute and one for the main parachute.

Thanks for the help,
Bob
 
Hey Bob, guess you’re not a user of OpenRocket? Both those problems are addressed in OR!
By the way, my WM 2S maiden voyage is tomorrow!


Sent from my iPhone using Rocketry Forum
 
Hi Tim,

Good Luck on your maiden flight! Please post pictures. I will have to look into Open Rocket.

What motors are you using in your 3" Wildman? How high are you expecting to go?

All the best Luck tomorrow,

Bob
 
Thanks Bob!

Loki J820 to a CTI H123. Expected altitude about 5500’

Will definitely get some pics. Also have a Möbius attached to sustainer so that will probably knock some altitude off of sim.
 
Hi Everyone,

I just wanted to update this thread with a progress report and some pictures. My 3” Wildman two stage rocket has been completed and painted. The booster AV Bay which is installed in the interstage has been completed. The only item that has not been completed is the sustainer’s AV Bay. I am waiting for Vern Knowles Staging altimeter to be completed.

With some help from forum members, and a lot of parts fiddling, I was able to fit quite a lot of avionics into the 54 mm booster AV Bay. In the attached picture you will see that I fitted two Missile Works RRC 2 altimeters, the Missile Works GPS Tracker, one rotary switch, one nine volt battery, and one LiPo battery.

There was only room for one switch. That switch operates the GPS Tracker. There is no external access to this switch so it must be turned on at the finial assembly table. The two altimeters will use twisted wires in place of switches.

23008F20-55B8-407C-B49A-219EC6C19308.jpg

214A2BAB-03F2-4CD8-BDE6-9E12C413C319.jpg

CAEE2078-BBF0-4C03-B6E0-D86EF0BB7A2E.jpg
 
ISC AV-bay looks good Bob! What motors do you plan on using for maiden flight? Also, when will Vern's altimeter be available? Is Vern's altimeter capable of firing a booster separation charge?
 
Hi Tim,

Originally I was going to use a CTI White Thunder in the booster. I’ve been trying to buy one from Wildman for six months. Apparently CTI isn’t able to make any at this time. Teddy from One Bad Hawk has been trying to get me to buy Loki Motors from him for quite some time.

After seeing your flight photos of your first 3” Wildman Two Stage Flight, I performed a flight sim with the Loki J 820 that you had flown. I will be flying the first couple of flights with the Loki J 820 in the booster. It’s a pleasure just being able to call a dealer and they have the motors that you want right in stock. Teddy had the motors and the full case with closures in stock.

I have been told that the CTI motors have the easiest ignition. A small CTI Motor will power the second stage just like you used in your sustainer.

Vern’s altimeter will be able to fire the seperation charge. After speaking to Vern, I installed a second brake line in my sustainer. One break line is a wire chase for the motor igniter. The second break line is a wire chase for the seperation charge. Vern’s unit is supposed to be available in the Spring of 2018.

Living in NY my flying season is over for the year now. I am planning on flying the Wildman 3” two stage for the first time in June of 2018. Our Club has a big three day event In Potter, NY in June. I only travel to the Potter field twice a year because it is so far away from where I live. The METRA Club flield that I fly at regularly only has a 4,500 foot waiver. That’s not going to work for the two stage. The Potter field has an 18,000 foot waiver.

At first I was just going to use Vern’s staging altimeter in the sustainer. Now I’ve decided to try and fit in a small Missile Works RRC2 as a backup for the parachute’s deployments.

All the best,
Bob
 
Bob, today's flight was perfect even with the wind. Boost was the Loki J820 & Sustainer was the CTI H123. Only reached 3729 feet. Sim said about 5500 feet. I am sure wind played a big factor plus the angle I had on the rail but the sustainer lit off this time exactly as planned. Booster landed about 200 feet from pad. I put a Z-fold in the booster main using chute release in order to reef the chute and it opened at 400 feet as expected. The sustainer landed about 1200 feet from the pad.
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Congratulations Tim! I’m so glad you were able to work out the electronics and have a perfect flight. It was great that you were able to see and photograph the staging.

Are you going to use a larger sustainer motor next time? Now that you have had a successful test flight you should be able to up the power and altitude.

Congradulations,
Bob
 
Hi Tim,

I just took a better look at your pictures. Did the sustainer seperate from the booster before the booster’s motor burnout? It looks like there is still fire coming out of the booster while the sustainer is seperated.
 
Bob, today's flight was perfect even with the wind. Boost was the Loki J820 & Sustainer was the CTI H123. Only reached 3729 feet. Sim said about 5500 feet. I am sure wind played a big factor plus the angle I had on the rail but the sustainer lit off this time exactly as planned. Booster landed about 200 feet from pad. I put a Z-fold in the booster main using chute release in order to reef the chute and it opened at 400 feet as expected. The sustainer landed about 1200 feet from the pad.
View attachment 332007
View attachment 332008
View attachment 332009

Love that third pic of the booster and sustainer momentarily 'formation flying'. Looks like an excellent flight.
 
Hi Tim,

I just took a better look at your pictures. Did the sustainer seperate from the booster before the booster’s motor burnout? It looks like there is still fire coming out of the booster while the sustainer is seperated.

Might be some residual fire but motor has de-accelerated enough for separation & that's what I want, separation!

I have an I150 that will kick it a bit higher but I would like an I140 skid if I can get one.
 
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Hi Tim,

Would you mind telling us how much each stage weighs. Did you use dual deploy on the sustainer? Did you use a Chute Release on both stages?

Are you you sticking with CTI motors for the sustainer? I heard that they are easier to ignite than other makes. The Loki J820 puts out a nice kick for the booster. Would you consider using any other Loki Motors in the booster? The CTI White Thunder line offers a lot of choices but according to Wildman are not currently being produced.

Thanks for filling everyone in on your flight results.

Bob
 
Hi Tim,

Would you mind telling us how much each stage weighs. Did you use dual deploy on the sustainer? Did you use a Chute Release on both stages?

Are you you sticking with CTI motors for the sustainer? I heard that they are easier to ignite than other makes. The Loki J820 puts out a nice kick for the booster. Would you consider using any other Loki Motors in the booster? The CTI White Thunder line offers a lot of choices but according to Wildman are not currently being produced.

Thanks for filling everyone in on your flight results.

Bob

Sure!

Booster weight minus motor was 80 oz.
I used main only on booster as stated earlier with chute release used to reef main. Electronics was a Perfect Flight MiniTimer 4 for separation charge and had a PF SL100 for main deployment. These were all contained in the ISC. Had a ComSpec RF transmitter in booster.

Sustainer weight fully loaded minus motor was 97 oz.
The sustainer had a 12" drogue for apogee deployment and a main deployed at 500 feet. Used Missile Works RRC3 for deployment AND Sustainer ignition. Since the sustainer was flown in HED configuration, I needed a drogue otherwise it falls really fast (100+ FPS). Have a few other rockets with HED deploy and tried drogueless once and its just too fast for me! Sustainer also equipped with an RTx tracker.

CTI is the way to go for sustainer ignition otherwise you need to modifiy your igniter if you want immediate ignition. Think others will agree.

For booster, you can use a Loki J820, J528 or K960. Probably more but that is all I have simmed with Loki. But I would definitely stick with the Loki for boost. Loki motors just give it a great kick off the pad! As I get more experience with this rocket, will definitely be using the bigger Loki motors!

If I can think of anything else, I'll be sure to let you know!

IMG_3678.jpg
 
Guy's,,
A Loki J 820 LW is quite satisfactorily ( to say the least ) punching your whole stack off the pad..
That means these should also lift the same mass off the pad with at least the same authority
most more authority and a cool factor that words just fail..

If you want the rocket to stage down low, right in front of you
and you're trying to keep apogee down under a waiver sim these--
J 528 LW and the J 712 LB...

If you'd like to stay with somewhere around the same total nutes as the J 820 LW
so it stages near the same point and reaches a similar apogee sim these--
J 1000 LW and the J 1026 CT,,, the K 1127 LB will be noticeably higher in authority / punch..

As a matter of fact, if you guy's are staging I'd venture a bet that if you use a K 1127 LB
for this purpose it'll instantly be your new favorite load when you need punch NOW...

As far as ignition goes,,
I light all of my motors, including all airstarts in my rocket "Europa Express" that airstarts 2-- 38mm loads,
with a half a pyrodex pellet and a simple e match...
Ignition is almost immediate and I have never had a failure since I started using pyrodex to light motors...
I used to use my own motor lighters..
But the bulk / mass of the pyrogen at the tip I felt had a tendency to come down away from the top of the motor
with the G's of ignition of the main motor in the booster..
An e match head is as light as you're going to get in something designed to ignite a motor
and the pyrodex pellet is either wedged or glued into the top of the top grain so it can't move...

Works everytime... On any motor you'd like....

Teddy
 
As far as ignition goes,,
I light all of my motors, including all airstarts in my rocket "Europa Express" that airstarts 2-- 38mm loads,
with a half a pyrodex pellet and a simple e match...
Ignition is almost immediate and I have never had a failure since I started using pyrodex to light motors...
I used to use my own motor lighters..
But the bulk / mass of the pyrogen at the tip I felt had a tendency to come down away from the top of the motor
with the G's of ignition of the main motor in the booster..
An e match head is as light as you're going to get in something designed to ignite a motor
and the pyrodex pellet is either wedged or glued into the top of the top grain so it can't move...

I've never used pyrodex pellets before, where are you getting them from? Bass Pro has .50 & .44 Caliber pellets - would those work? What glue would you use secure it to the top grain? I am planning on using the Loki 38/120mm that I just got from you on the top of my two stage, so I guess I'll need to get on this pyrodex train.

https://www.basspro.com/shop/en/pyrodex-pellets

cheers - mark
 
As far as ignition goes,,
I light all of my motors, including all airstarts in my rocket "Europa Express" that airstarts 2-- 38mm loads,
with a half a pyrodex pellet and a simple e match...
Ignition is almost immediate and I have never had a failure since I started using pyrodex to light motors...
I used to use my own motor lighters..
But the bulk / mass of the pyrogen at the tip I felt had a tendency to come down away from the top of the motor
with the G's of ignition of the main motor in the booster..
An e match head is as light as you're going to get in something designed to ignite a motor
and the pyrodex pellet is either wedged or glued into the top of the top grain so it can't move...

Works everytime... On any motor you'd like....

Teddy

That's how I light all my AT & Loki 75mm's!
 
I've never used pyrodex pellets before, where are you getting them from? Bass Pro has .50 & .44 Caliber pellets - would those work? What glue would you use secure it to the top grain? I am planning on using the Loki 38/120mm that I just got from you on the top of my two stage, so I guess I'll need to get on this pyrodex train.

https://www.basspro.com/shop/en/pyrodex-pellets

cheers - mark

Yep,, that's the same ones I use Mark...

That's how I light all my AT & Loki 75mm's!

Me too Tim,,

I buy mine from Cabelas but same difference..
I buy 50 cal. 50 grain..
I use a long bladed razor knife and lay the pellet down and roll it under gentle pressure
from the razor blade and it will split in half beautifully..
In most 38's you have to force the half into the top grain..
In most 54's the core is big enough that a whole pellet is loose,,
I won't leave anything loose in the core, so I remove a tiny bit of propellent from either side of the core ,,
just enough so the the whole pellet will lay down sideways and be wedged so it can't move..
On 75's I tape 3 or 4 pellets to the top of a dowel with the ematch in the bundle...
By this method you can light a motor with a single AA battery...

Teddy
 
Hi Teddy,

Are you saying that we will get more kick out of the 38 mm K 1127 than the 54 mm J 820? Does Loki approve of the practice of gluing a pryodex ball into one of their grains? From reading posts on the forum and talking to a few two stage flyers,it seems that most are using CTI motors for the sustainer stage. They say this is because of easier ignition.

I am planning on using the Loki J 820 for the booster on my first flight of the Wildman 3” two stage in the Spring or Summer. I was going to use a low power CTI in the second stage.

Your advice is always welcome.

Bob
 
What I find in my sims with the K1127 is you don't gain much more than the J820 off the pad, plus it's $15 more and it wont fit in my booster!
 
Hi Teddy,

Are you saying that we will get more kick out of the 38 mm K 1127 than the 54 mm J 820? Does Loki approve of the practice of gluing a pryodex ball into one of their grains? From reading posts on the forum and talking to a few two stage flyers,it seems that most are using CTI motors for the sustainer stage. They say this is because of easier ignition.

I am planning on using the Loki J 820 for the booster on my first flight of the Wildman 3” two stage in the Spring or Summer. I was going to use a low power CTI in the second stage.

Your advice is always welcome.

Bob

Bob,
1--- Are you saying that as a newly signed off on level 3 and someone who's going to put a match to a HP 2 stage rocket you would ask such a question
Are you saying that we will get more kick out of the 38 mm K 1127 than the 54 mm J 820? here rather then looking up the thrust curve of the 2 motors
in question here--
J 820 LW-- https://www.thrustcurve.org/simfilesearch.jsp?id=831
K 1127 LB-- https://www.thrustcurve.org/simfilesearch.jsp?id=2116
I totally do not understand your not looking these up on your own instead of posting that...
How are you choosing the loads for the booster and sustainer in that 2 stage project ???
2--- I don't think Loki would mind a pyrodex pellet FIXED in place in the top grain of a motor..
But there should never be anything in the core of any motor that isn't fixed in place..
You must have an understanding of how the motor comes up to pressure..
The hot expanding gasses must travel down the core from the top, if something were to get hung up in the nozzle the motor would cato..
I am not 100% sure how Loki feels about this..
I know the last 50 motors I have lit were lit by this method and I haven't had a single failure with it.. Whether on the ground or in the air...
As with anything in rocketry, I'm sure you'll find someone that says they have a better method, but this is simple, proven to me, and just works time and again..
3--- it seems that most are using CTI motors for the sustainer stage. They say this is because of easier ignition.
I have an educational idea..
Why don't you do a bit of homework and research and find out the REASON for this and come back and post it here in this thread..

What I find in my sims with the K1127 is you don't gain much more than the J820 off the pad, plus it's $15 more and it wont fit in my booster!

Yeah Tim,,
The 38 / 1200 case is a bit long right, lol...
Well if it doesn't fit then that's the end of that idea, lol..
Severely cool loads though,, you would have had a ball trying them out to lift a heavy stack...

Teddy
 
Yeah Tim,,
The 38 / 1200 case is a bit long right, lol...
Well if it doesn't fit then that's the end of that idea, lol..
Severely cool loads though,, you would have had a ball trying them out to lift a heavy stack...

Teddy

Bob's kit is a bit different than mine so he may have room in booster - not sure.
 
Hi Crazy Jim,

My Wildman 3” Two Stage Rocket weighs in at 16.44 pounds or 263.04 ounces. That’s Flight ready without motors. The only part that missing is Vern’s staging altimeter. So I would add a few more ounces for the one missing altimeter. Say 269 ounces then.

Jim please look at the attached picture. The picture shows one of the three 5/32” vent holes in the interstage AV Bay. As you can see, the twisted wire for the altimeter switch restricts the opening. Two of the three vents will be restricted this way. There are two altimeters in the AV Bay. Should I enlarge these vent holes?

Bob

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Hi Crazy Jim,

My Wildman 3” Two Stage Rocket weighs in at 16.44 pounds or 263.04 ounces. That’s Flight ready without motors. The only part that missing is Vern’s staging altimeter. So I would add a few more ounces for the one missing altimeter. Say 269 ounces then.

Jim please look at the attached picture. The picture shows one of the three 5/32” vent holes in the interstage AV Bay. As you can see, the twisted wire for the altimeter switch restricts the opening. Two of the three vents will be restricted this way. There are two altimeters in the AV Bay. Should I enlarge these vent holes?

Bob

Hey Bob, what I did on my ISC was drill a 4th hole in between 2 of my 3 vent holes. I could feed both switch wires thru the hole and I put a piece of electrical tape over that hole at the pad once I armed electronics. .
 
Hi Crazy Jim,

My Wildman 3” Two Stage Rocket weighs in at 16.44 pounds or 263.04 ounces. That’s Flight ready without motors. The only part that missing is Vern’s staging altimeter. So I would add a few more ounces for the one missing altimeter. Say 269 ounces then.

Jim please look at the attached picture. The picture shows one of the three 5/32” vent holes in the interstage AV Bay. As you can see, the twisted wire for the altimeter switch restricts the opening. Two of the three vents will be restricted this way. There are two altimeters in the AV Bay. Should I enlarge these vent holes?

Bob

Can't tell how large [gauge] wire is, you are using. I use e-match wire for my switch/power wire. It's small/thin, wire lays flat & does not block holes enough to matter [5/32].
Some may argue against single strand wire, but I cut off twisted end after every flight or just replace the entire switch wire depending on each rocket they are used in.

As long as you can bend wire flat, at exit and tape to airframe, not blocking hole,it will function fine. There are other solutions, mentioned above is a good one, just an extra hole specifically for wire. I just like to keep it simple as possible.

Part 2: call your weight 17lbs, you did an excellent build keeping weight fairly low. Lets add 3.5 for 2 motors on a small flight and call it 20.5 lbs.
I want minimum of 225-250 lbs thrust for 10-1 ratio with little to no wind. You have basically a 11-12ft tall....20lb rocket flying at lift off.
A tall, heavy rocket, susceptible to wind shears & weather cocking for first several hundred feet of flight. I want to punch that rascal hard, get it moving right out of the hole, to keep it flying straight.

After several "learning" flights, my preferred minimum size motors are 3-4grain 54mm's producing 350-500lbs thrust or more. [booster] AT...J-1520 K-1100 K-1103X-K805......CTI K-2045 K-940 J-760 I prefer 15-20 to 1 when possible.

Teddy you'll have to add comparable Loki's to this list.:smile:

Using any of the above for booster and sustainer can be anything pretty much...the full stack is moving-stable and straight & fast.
They will burn out between 1000 to 2500 ft. You'll get clean separation and sustainer motor choice will determine your final altitude.

I also use pellets/match, in my sustainer for motors other than CTI.
Recommend using them on booster also. Why lose newtons on pad waiting for motor to come up to pressure? Put a pellet in there and get instant ignition!

By the way, if you fly any CTI motors in single stage rocket, you can remove pellet from top grain & save it for your 2-stage. Just use a regular igniter in the CTI. I did that before making my own/buying them.
CTI pellet is black powder [they make their own] & is faster than Pyrodex. [allegedly]

Good luck...have fun!
 
Hi Everyone,

I am a new Rocketry Forum member. I am looking for advice on selecting a first high power two stage rocket kit to build. There are past build threads on Wildman Jr. projects on the forum. Does anyone have experience with any of the 3 inch Wildman two stage kit upgrades?

Wildman doesn't advertise the 3" kit upgrades on a direct link to his website. Wildman does advertise the Jr. two stage kit upgrades on the website. Is there some kind of difficulty with his 3" two stage kit upgrades?

I would appreciate any advice on selecting a first two stage high power kit. As far as building experience goes, I am a Level 2 flyer whom has completed his Level 3 build. I will be flying my Level 3 Certification Flight later in the year.

Thanks everyone for your anticipated assistance.

Sincerely,
Bob
How about this amazing buy: https://www.madcowrocketry.com/4-fiberglass-nike-apache/.

From the Ether...
 
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