a paint scheme i might try this summer

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tomsteve

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ive seen these videos before and did it on a couple small items. im thinkin i might try it on a rocket. gotta get to the end of the videos to see the effect.
[video=youtube;0qwBktr_7M0]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0qwBktr_7M0[/video]
[video=youtube;BAWxOC4ztSU]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BAWxOC4ztSU[/video]
 
Read up on how you need to treat the water and what to do with thinning the paint before putting it on the water before you try this. It's a multi-step prep process. We've done this several times with deer skulls and gun stocks, and it's not as straight forward as it looks.

Also, practice on several 'rocket shaped' things before using the real thing. You're welcome.

Once you get the hang of it, though, you can do some really cool swirls with it.
 
Read up on how you need to treat the water and what to do with thinning the paint before putting it on the water before you try this. It's a multi-step prep process. We've done this several times with deer skulls and gun stocks, and it's not as straight forward as it looks.

Also, practice on several 'rocket shaped' things before using the real thing. You're welcome.

Once you get the hang of it, though, you can do some really cool swirls with it.


any chance you have some videos on YT of the deer skulls and gun stocks? i saw a couple of both and pretty wild results.
i found out its not as easy or simple as some make it sound. i have a wixey angle gage i made a little box for and decided to dip it using just spray paint. turned out pretty sweet, but took a few practice pieces before to get that good.
tried a nose cone without doing much studying. just used rustoleum from a can without thinning.
i had a lot of sanding to do. :)
then tried it with rusto thinned a bit.
i had a lot of sanding to do. :)
getting the rocket sealed to keep water out i dont think will be difficult. adding ballast to it so i'll be able to dip it without having to try and force it down in will be intersting.

definately some studying and testing 1st.
 
I have a friend who uses commercial systems like this to finish guns. The effect is very cool, but the commercial system as are expensive. But I'm seriously considering it for my next 3" fiberglass build.
 
I have a friend who uses commercial systems like this to finish guns. The effect is very cool, but the commercial system as are expensive. But I'm seriously considering it for my next 3" fiberglass build.

Can also be done at home with results about 90% as good as commercial. https://www.mydipkit.com/

As for swirl painting, the whole key is in how much you thin the paints and how well it adheres to the base paint layer. You want the paint that you put on the water to be a little thicker than you would use for an airbrush. I hear the words "milk" used a lot, but I like mine a little thicker. I've used a lot of different things, and I find bottled testors enamel to work well when thinned properly. The hands down favorite is Humbrol enamels for models, but those are harder to find and sometimes cost prohibitive. Prepared and undercoated properly, it takes VERY LITTLE paint to do a swirl, and that's the key that most don't get. VERY LITTLE PAINT on the water, just a thin, translucent coat. Think like it's a final TOP COAT, and it won't sag or run. If you get sags or runs, you have too much paint and/or it's too thick.

EXPERIMENT with your chosen paints first. Cheap dowel rods are great for this. PRIME the wood, and BASE COAT it. 2-3 colors works best, any more than that and it gets muddy and hard to work with.

Watch videos on YouTube by DeanSwirled. He has it figured out, and shares tips and materials in the comments.
 
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thanks for the info, banzai!
wow, that site has some pretty sweet effects. ive thought for some time of doing a wood veneer wrap on a rocket. i love birdseye and flame/curly maple. just never thought how the NC would go.
on the testors paint, can you give an ides of how much you thin it and what with? i assume mineral spirits, but not sure as i know some enamels prefer something different for thinning.

i did find, with tinkering a bit using rattle cans, lacquers arent a good idea. unless, of course, the effect desired is a mess effect.
 
I thin with mineral spirits to thicker than the consistency of milk. Never really ran it through a zahn cup to get a number. Start with about 25% thinner and work from there. Humidity and temp have a tremendous influence on it, since most often you'll find yourself outside in the garage.

Lacquer is a non-starter since the solvent flashes off too fast.
 
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