Eggfinder WiFi Switch Battery

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davdue

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I am tire of trying to figure out the right place for holes to switches so I am going to use this on my L3. I haven't used anything other than 9V alkaline batteries before. Eggfinder suggests a 1S LiPo for their WiFi switch. What brand of batteries and what charger to you guys use? I assume I will also have to get a mating connector for the battery as well. Let me know where you get all of this stuff.

Thanks,
 
Don't use a 1S battery, use a 2S battery minimum if you want to avoid range problems. Read the instructions again. 4 to 16V. Hobby King is where a lot of people shop.

Recommendations abound on TRF if you do a search for chargers. Kurt
 
Don't use a 1S battery, use a 2S battery minimum if you want to avoid range problems. Read the instructions again. 4 to 16V. Hobby King is where a lot of people shop.

Recommendations abound on TRF if you do a search for chargers. Kurt

I was wondering about that but the documentation on their website says a 1S 300mAH battery.

Here is a paste from the user's manual:

"You CAN use a 1S/3.7V LiPo
battery with the WiFi Switch, note that the range may be slightly reduced compared to a larger
battery, but it should be more than adequate for most uses.
The WiFi Switch uses about 85 mA of current, so we recommend that you use a battery with at
least 300 mAH of capacity. That will give you about 3 hours of power, which should be
enough for almost all flights. Bigger is better. "

I got this battery from HobbyKing :

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-nano-tech-300mah-2s-35-70c-lipo-pack.html

And this charger :

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-accucell-6-50w-6a-balancer-charger-lihv-capable.html

The battery uses the red connector in the picture for power to the WiFi switch. It's a JST plug. To plug it into the WiFi switch, get some JST pigtails :

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/female-jst-battery-pigtail-12cm-length-10pcs-bag.html

cheers - mark

Thanks. Do you have a separate power supply for the charger or do you just hook the charger to your vehicle battery?
 
The battery and charger are on back order with Hobbyking but that gives me a starting point. I haven't gotten the kit from eggfinder yet but when I get it I can play with it using a 9V akaline for testing and setup. I won't be launching the rocket until AirFest in September so I have some time.

Thanks,
 
If you ever go into GPS with an Eggfinder, don't use a 1S battery on it. A young fellow did that recently at LDRS, the tracker crapped out and he had a main at apogee with no way of
tracking his L3 candidate project (at least to get the rocket back) He's hoping someone will return it. Don't risk a borderline 1S battery except with a deployment device that is designed to use and in that case, consider a magnetic switch (one would plug-in quick, button up the ebay and go fly right then and there) or a mechanical switch. If low capacity battery, one wouldn't
want a long wait time on the pad. Kurt
 
I love all the eggtimer products. Don't use a 1S. Period. 2S works much better. I run 850mah. in almost everything, unless I'm worried about weight, or size. Even then I still go with 2S.
 
Wonder if Eggtimer will come out with an all-in-one device, with wifi switch, altimeter, dual deployment, GPS?
 
If you ever go into GPS with an Eggfinder, don't use a 1S battery on it. A young fellow did that recently at LDRS, the tracker crapped out and he had a main at apogee with no way of
tracking his L3 candidate project (at least to get the rocket back) He's hoping someone will return it. Don't risk a borderline 1S battery except with a deployment device that is designed to use and in that case, consider a magnetic switch (one would plug-in quick, button up the ebay and go fly right then and there) or a mechanical switch. If low capacity battery, one wouldn't
want a long wait time on the pad. Kurt

I'm actually happy to see people are sharing my example as a way of saying "don't do this" :)
 
"Doesn't the eggtimer TRS do all of this except for the WiFi switch?"

Yes it does. And the Quantum has the WiFi switch but not GPS.

Now if we put these 2 together...
 
I got this battery from HobbyKing :

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-nano-tech-300mah-2s-35-70c-lipo-pack.html

And this charger :

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-accucell-6-50w-6a-balancer-charger-lihv-capable.html

The battery uses the red connector in the picture for power to the WiFi switch. It's a JST plug. To plug it into the WiFi switch, get some JST pigtails :

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/female-jst-battery-pigtail-12cm-length-10pcs-bag.html

cheers - mark

I assume I would need one of these for each wifi switch plus since this is a L3 cert flight they need to be independent from each other.
 
Yes, each switch would needs it own battery. Have you considered using a Quark as one of or both of your altimeters? Then you could eliminate the need for the wifi switch. I am running a Quark and TRS in my Darkstar. The TRS gets turned on with the reciever/LCD and the Quark gets turned on with my phone, no switches needed. (Caveat, this is not an L3 rocket, so I don't know if a TAP would approve of this setup)

cheers - mark
 
Yes, each switch would needs it own battery. Have you considered using a Quark as one of or both of your altimeters? Then you could eliminate the need for the wifi switch. I am running a Quark and TRS in my Darkstar. The TRS gets turned on with the reciever/LCD and the Quark gets turned on with my phone, no switches needed. (Caveat, this is not an L3 rocket, so I don't know if a TAP would approve of this setup)

cheers - mark

I already have my altimeters mounted and actually mechanical switches but like I said in my OP I am tired of the hassle of getting holes to line up with the coupler and airframe. I don't have a switch band because I want the extra engagement in the airframe. With a 7.5" rocket and a 12" coupler I still only have 6" in each part of the rocket. I have always bee told the rule of thumb is one body diameter. But I do want to get some more egg timer products in the future.
 
Yes, each switch would needs it own battery. Have you considered using a Quark as one of or both of your altimeters? Then you could eliminate the need for the wifi switch. I am running a Quark and TRS in my Darkstar. The TRS gets turned on with the reciever/LCD and the Quark gets turned on with my phone, no switches needed. (Caveat, this is not an L3 rocket, so I don't know if a TAP would approve of this setup)

cheers - mark

With TRA I was told by Steve Shannon that the BOD considers it fine if one can turn it on at the pad. They "DO NOT" require a mechanical switch!
One can connect up their battery to their wireless switch (wireless or WiFi) or magnetic switch, button up the ebay and are O.K. NAR remains behind the times and one
has to have a mechanical switch on both the deployment devices sort of negating the advantages of a wireless switch on an L3 candidate rocket.

I have a Dominator 4 completely switchless, without any pimples on the side of the rocket I intend to use two Quantums. I elongated the upper bay so a larger main can be used
and to hopefully cut down a bit on apogee altitude. Kurt
 
The wifi and RF activation works well, but it doesn't mesh too well with the way I fly. I like to pre-prep all my flights and seal the av-bays for the flights up 1-3 nights before a launch. In that instance, I need a mechanical switch to disconnect the circuit in order to not drain the battery. The TRS and quantums are still nice because I can switch the mechanical switch on before raising the rail and do the final arming from the ground. So, I still end up using screw switches.
 
Even with wifi or RF activation, it is still necessary to remove the device from the rocket to recharge the battery, isn't it?
 
The wifi and RF activation works well, but it doesn't mesh too well with the way I fly. I like to pre-prep all my flights and seal the av-bays for the flights up 1-3 nights before a launch. In that instance, I need a mechanical switch to disconnect the circuit in order to not drain the battery. The TRS and quantums are still nice because I can switch the mechanical switch on before raising the rail and do the final arming from the ground. So, I still end up using screw switches.

But, one can have everything prepped and just open the ebay to connect up the battery and then take it to the pad. If one wants to have all the prep work done before proceeding to
the launch site then yes, they need a mechanical switch. That said, some small projects don't lend themselves to mechanical switches easily and connecting up the battery to a
wireless deployment device onsite and then go fly is only thing viable outside of twist and tape. Kurt
 
But, one can have everything prepped and just open the ebay to connect up the battery and then take it to the pad. If one wants to have all the prep work done before proceeding to
the launch site then yes, they need a mechanical switch. That said, some small projects don't lend themselves to mechanical switches easily and connecting up the battery to a
wireless deployment device onsite and then go fly is only thing viable outside of twist and tape. Kurt

That gives me an idea. I already have mechanical switches wired up so if I just put that in series with the WiFi switch then I can just pop the top off the av-bay press the switch and then arm things at the pad with the WiFi. I like it. :wink: :clap: :cool:
 
That gives me an idea. I already have mechanical switches wired up so if I just put that in series with the WiFi switch then I can just pop the top off the av-bay press the switch and then arm things at the pad with the WiFi. I like it. :wink: :clap: :cool:

Yup. As long as you have room in the rocket, you certainly can do that. Minimizes the battery drain time. Like I said with smaller rockets sometimes connecting the battery is
the on/off switch. Kurt
 
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