What's your favorite non-tool building tool?

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The OttLite is a low wattage, very bright, full spectrum bulb. Their new bulbs will fit a standard lamp bulb base. My wife has one of their floor lamps for sewing… but it takes one of their fancy Ott only lamps. I bought the standard base bulb for my work lamp. I need it for very fine detail work.

Ref: https://products.ottlite.com/c-177-bulbs.aspx
 
My wife's Cricut Explore. Ive used it to cut vinyl decals, thin balsa for fins, and card stock transitions. It doesn't like cutting centering ring material but it will leave a deep scratch to follow with a knife.
 
My wife's Cricut Explore. Ive used it to cut vinyl decals, thin balsa for fins, and card stock transitions. It doesn't like cutting centering ring material but it will leave a deep scratch to follow with a knife.
Very cool device. I can see the possibilities. Do you make your own decals? I've been looking for a more cost effective way to make my own without having to waste a whole 8.5 x 11 sheet for only a few small ones.
 
Two answers. Adobe Illustrator and Microsoft Excel.

They are, by far, my most critical modeling tools. Excel is used to create a simple spreadsheet for all of my scale models, into which all of the major dimensions of the prototype can be entered. Once that it done it is a simple matter to use a formula to convert and compare a variety of scale factors.

Illustrator is used to create workshop drawings, decal files, and drawings for parts to cut on the laser cutter. Once a drawing is done for a model I can grab the fin bits off of that drawing to create a new drawing for cutting fins. Perhaps most importantly, jigs and patterns drawings can be drawn up, and then cut on the laser cutter.

Perhapas not the answer you were looking for, and while Illustrator stretches the definition of "household," Excel can probably be found in 50%+ of the homes in America.

James

@James Duffy You have your own laser cutter?!
 
The OttLite is a low wattage, very bright, full spectrum bulb. Their new bulbs will fit a standard lamp bulb base. My wife has one of their floor lamps for sewing… but it takes one of their fancy Ott only lamps. I bought the standard base bulb for my work lamp. I need it for very fine detail work.

Ref: https://products.ottlite.com/c-177-bulbs.aspx

Mitkof Really appreciate the info and link! I'm going to order some as they sound like the perfect solution for my work area.
 
A foam floor mat at my work bench. nice & squishy, can stand at my bench now for hours! it's one of those 6-pack sets; 6 foam 'tiles' about 24" square. They have puzzle pieces along each edge so you can join them together in various shapes. and they come with a fancy edge piece to make it nice & 'finished' 2 in my hobby shop, 3 in my work shop, and one I cut up into two pieces: 1 half for 'outside' work (changing car tires, brake work, etc..) and the other half for my R/C flying field, no more wet knees when kneeling!
 
has anyone mentioned spring clip clothes pins? I find them to be quite handy to have.
Rex
 
has anyone mentioned spring clip clothes pins? I find them to be quite handy to have.
Rex

Good one. Virtually every club multiple LPR launch rack has them as standoffs. They work great as an auxiliary set of hands and arms since, like most primates, I only have one set. Great for clamping glued pieces together or holding on to a just-painted part, since I also have limited patience (and time) for that kind of thing.
 
I also like to use coat hangers for various things, among them are: Holding parts for painting and using one that has been cut and stretched out (with a little hook on the end) for fishing kevlar/shockcords out of body tubes through the MMT.
I also like to use smaller machine gears (liberated from the junk metal box at work) to hold parts upright such as papered fins while the CA'd edges dry. They also double as weights for holding parts flat.
 
Love it, mind if I borrow that idea? It's hard to get recovery things stuffed into little bitty tubes when you've got fat fingers like me (and they're all thumbs).
Interesting, I just use an 8mm OD anodized aluminum straw, may need to try it with grip / teeth of some kind. Hemispherical rubber nose? Or wait, maybe an MMX NC.
 
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I suppose it technically IS a tool, but my magnetic steel bench top and the magnets and fixtures that I use on it. Originally installed for building R/C airplanes, but it's currently adapted for rockets. :wink:

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I've always wanted to try on of those magnetic jigs. I build my airplanes on a glass surface. Nice and straight, but not as handy as magnets!

What does that stab go to?
 
About a year and a half ago I started building a 1/6 scale Fairey Firefly. I've built several kits and a few scratch built models over the years but never a nice big scale war bird, and I wanted something that not everyone else had (P-51, P-47, F-8, etc.). Unfortunately, it got a little overwhelming for me and I set it aside for a while. Since then I just can't seem to find my motivation to get back to it. And now my bench is covered in model rocket projects! I still go out to my R/C club field every Sunday afternoon when I'm home, but mainly to spend time with my "adopted" Grandpa, but I've been launching rockets there too. He just turned 97 on April 8th. Mentally, he's sharp as a tack and still driving himself around. Physically, he's winding down.
 
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I would have to say mine is blocks of wood. Oh, and my washing machine and stove.

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I swear by Swiffer dust cloths when it comes to picking up every speck of dust when sanding balsa or balsa filler. Unbeatable (unless you've got an air compressor and a biiig workspace).

Speaking of balsa filler, I quit using model sanding sealer after reading about Elmer's Carpenter Wood Filler. It's far thicker and seals better than sanding sealer, won't load up your sandpaper like sanding sealer will, there aren't any fumes, cleans up (and thins) with water. Best of all it finishes the job way faster. It typically takes me 2 coats vs the 6 or 7 with sealer. Start out by thinning into a brush on paste. A good starter mix ratio is 2 1/2 parts of CWF to one part of water. Adjust until your brush leaves no lumps and minimal brush marks.

While admittedly more a technique than a "tool", I thought it was too good not to pass on.

Note: stay away from the “MAX” or “Stainable / Sandable” type. It’s thicker and very hard to sand.
 
No, but I have access to one through a local maker space. It has really revolutionized my approach to the hobby, and I can't recommend it highly enough.

The price of laser cutters has also come down to a point where it's not crazy to own one.

I wish I had easier access to one.
 
The price of laser cutters has also come down to a point where it's not crazy to own one.

I wish I had easier access to one.

Would love to have one too but the prices are still too high altitude for me to justify. I noticed a lot of inexpensive ones on Amazon but they're labeled as "engravers". I don't think they're the same thing though.
 
Starting to look at laser cutters, for work. Not cheap, starting at about $3K. Cutters and engravers are not the same thing; engravers have a lower watt laser and a finer focal point (to get the detail) and usually have a better motor also for the detail..
 
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