A sanding block is used to gradually sand down the cut surface of the cone. Take care to keep the sanding block perpendicular to the axis of the cone. This step will take a while, about thirty minutes for my model.
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You'll be done when a BT-20 tube can slide into the hole cleanly and freely. The interior surface on my finished hole is ~19.5mm in diameter.
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Interesting. The two times I've done something like this I "hollowed out" the NC such that a stepless mooth fit was obtained and more surface area between NC & BT was achieved.
Seems like this way would be faster & less error prone, are there other advantages?
Very nice, makes me wish for a laser cutter of my own or even just local access to one.
As noted before, access to a laser cutter has completely changed my approach to just about any construction task in this little hobby.
Something to consider: just about every trophy shop in the world has a laser cutter sitting idle for about 90% of the work day. Most of these shops are run by laid-back, semi-retired types who would be thrilled to put their cutter to work for a few hours every now and then. Stop by and chat with the owner, and maybe he'll show you how to use the thing in exchange for $20 or so every time you use it.
James
I need to find myself a light table...
Time to add some details to the WAC sustainers...
There are two significant extras found on the WAC sustainer: a pair of cable/pipe conduits and a pair of spin motors. The conduit is created by cutting a section of .080" half-round styrene strip to length, rounding off the ends, and gluing them in place in line with two fins on opposite sides of the airframe.
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Next up are the spin motors, which are a complex tetrahedral structure. Given the relatively simple nature of this build were going to go with a flat representation of the component. (If this model were bound for a museum or an FAI contest we would probably whip up a 3d model of the part in a CAD program and have Shapeways print it.)
A drawing of the part is created in Illustrator, printed, and taped to a scrap of .010"-thick styrene sheet. After punching the locations with an awl the spin motors are drilled out, and the parts are then cut. A pdf of the Illustrator file is attached at the end of this post.
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After the edges are lightly sanded two simulated spin motors are glued into place on opposite sides of the sustainer, between the conduit details.
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Here's how everything looks with the spin motors in place. Sorry, I neglected to snap a photo before a layer of Tamiya primer was applied. Next, we'll paint the sustainer white with a grey nose cone.
More later,
James
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Via this photograph, the Corporal had rail buttons (apparently 3 on each quadrant) for apparent rails inside the V-2.
Also, the Corporal appears to have a single bay of spin motors in the housing, whereas the Honest John had two.
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