Eggtimer LCD Switch and Pushbutton

I have seen many people assemby their eggtimer LCD with an external switch and push button. I went to digikey and looked them up, but there were thousands to choose from and I am totally clueless on what I need. Can someone provide the part numbers they used or recommend an appropriate rocker switch and momentary push button?

Thanks in advance!

For mine, I used a rocker switch like this :

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-5pcs-...m/dp/B01IU898QA/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

I'm sure Digikey sells something similar, you can also likely get them from ebay/china if you're not in a hurry.

cheers

Any rocker switch of the size one desires is workable and a momentary switch is what you want to be able to program.

Get the BlackAero case and the switches are installed and one just has to connect the LCD up.

The third battery from the left is the largest battery that fits in the handle 1500mah. Here is the link: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-nano-tech-1500mah-2s1p-20-40c-lipo-receiver-pack.html

The picture on the right shows the red momentary button on the left and underneath that resides the little rocker switch that is not seen but you can see the lower edge under the PC board. The toggle on the
right side of the photo is I locking toggle I had on hand that I wired in the LCD so I can turn the backlight on or off for night launches if I ever get around to doing something like that.



This is the stock box. One of these days I'll get around to labeling that cables that go to the HC-06 B/T module so I can use this to program the frequencies on the programmable EggFinders. For now I find it easier to use
the one in the Black Arrow box as I take the back off and the header is right there. 3000mah battery so I don't have to worry about a weekend of flying!

Keep the header in mind when planning the installation 'cause you may want access to be able to program. You also want to make sure it's easy to disconnect and reconnect the cable to the B/T module. Kurt

Thanks for the information. Right now, I do not plan on getting the B/T module, so I will not need the cables. I do not plan on programming it more than once (hopefully). I am putting the mini/LCD GPS unit together for my father-in-law as a surprise gift and given that he is total clueless when it comes to computers/electronics (including smart phones), I do no think it is needed right now.

I will keep looking around the items.

Crazyrocket said:

Thanks for the information. Right now, I do not plan on getting the B/T module, so I will not need the cables. I do not plan on programming it more than once (hopefully). I am putting the mini/LCD GPS unit together for my father-in-law as a surprise gift and given that he is total clueless when it comes to computers/electronics (including smart phones), I do no think it is needed right now.

I will keep looking around the items.

Click to expand...

Ummm, I think your view will change quickly once these things become popular. The EggFinder Mini comes stock on 915Mhz ID 0 and it behooves one to change the frequency and perhaps the ID to avoid clashing with others.
If one flies at a sparsely attended launch, will probably be able to get away with it for a time but eventually someone will show up with an unaltered unit and you'll be sitting there trying to figure out what is going on. If the party
doesn't realize someone else is waiting to fly on frequency, they might not realize it would be courteous to turn it off ASAP after recovery. You don't need B/T to reprogram. You need access to the header on the back of the board
to plug the cable to connect the TRS to the EggFinder/Mini. Go through the programming cycle on the EggFinder LCD as outlined in the Eggfinder "user guide" and it will "set" the EggFinder/Mini to those same settings.

The Mini has pads for Program and Run instead of jumpers. With my first build (I have another to go) I desoldered the jumper from the "Run" pads, and soldered an L shaped wire to the PRGM jumpers. I just went through the programming cycle described in the EggFinder user documents. It's easy. Remember to get + and - correct along with the signal wire and it's a piece-o-cake. Cris supplies the three wire cable with the kit so there is nothing extra to buy. I removed the PRGM jumper wire and did a solder bridge to RUN. Works fine on the new frequency/ID settings. Hint: I tried to optimize to the antenna based on the characteristics on the Linx antenna site. Might as well get all the power output I paid for.:wink: Kurt

I agree. Right now I am planning to change the frequency to something other than the default and hoping that I will not have issues at a later date. We will see. I was thinking of putting some pins on the pads to allow reprogramming using using only a jumper. I first need to see what kind of room I have when I make something that I can tape to my harness. I am thinking I want a little more protection than just a kevlar pouch, something like a small ebay (24 mm perhaps with an Estes screw type retainer on one end).

Crazyrocket said:

I agree. Right now I am planning to change the frequency to something other than the default and hoping that I will not have issues at a later date. We will see. I was thinking of putting some pins on the pads to allow reprogramming using using only a jumper. I first need to see what kind of room I have when I make something that I can tape to my harness. I am thinking I want a little more protection than just a kevlar pouch, something like a small ebay (24 mm perhaps with an Estes screw type retainer on one end).

Click to expand...

Whatever you do, don't drill the board for pins! If the room was there for jumpers, Cris would have put them there. It's easy enough to use solder and a little wire for a bridge if one doesn't want to "gob" a bunch of solder on the board. There is room to desolder the pads when needed.

It's easy, bend a piece of wire into an "L" shape and solder in place and "clip" the tail if it's for the RUN pads and leave the tail for the PRGM pads because you'll remove as soon as you reprogram.

Heat and then swipe away with solder wick to desolder the RUN pad as needed. Don't waste your time trying to put pins on the board. Kurt

great advice, kurt- especially using an L shaped wire- reprograming is not something you do often! I cant over emphasize- change the frequency from default to "your" favorite- I have seen issues at two events do far. Cris recommends turning on you ur receiver without the transmitter to see if its clear- very good advice!

I would not drill holes. I was thinking is taking a header pin, bending a small portion over 90 degrees and then soldering that to the pad. Most likely I will not do anything. I am just thinking out loud right now.

Crazyrocket said:

I would not drill holes. I was thinking is taking a header pin, bending a small portion over 90 degrees and then soldering that to the pad. Most likely I will not do anything. I am just thinking out loud right now.

Click to expand...

I built my second mini last nite. Thought I dorked it as I accidentally stripped out a couple of contacts on the board to the GPS receiver on the side. I bridged one of them during the build and it works perfectly fine. With the popularity of these units on the rise, it behooves one to change the frequency and ID so they don't
clash with others. This is more important if going to a large, major launch. The other thing to keep in mind for a major launch is to always bring plenty of rockets to fly. If someone is on your frequency and you can't figure out who or what is going on, just fly something else and save you Mini based project for another time.

There may come a day when the major launches have an online "spreadsheet" for frequency control like many of them do for volunteers to help out with the launch. Just peruse the list and program your EggFinder device to a clear frequency.

With my second build, I simply bridged the RUN pads and fired it up to test. I'll solder the pins to the three pad programming block later and reprogram it.
I really recommend the L-shaped wire to temporarily bridge the pads for programming as it's very easy to do and reverse when finished. Kurt