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  1. #1
    Join Date
    26th January 2010
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    Pink Hornet scratch build

    A few years ago, I was toying with upscaling the 2030 version of the Estes Hornet. I started a discussion thread at the time about the difficulty of using rail buttons with the design. I have resurrected it, and with some design changes, have started the build. The biggest design change is to reduce the total number of fins from 10 to 6. For one thing, that will eliminate the challenge of using rail buttons. For another thing, it will be easier.

    I named it the Pink Hornet, because I was planning on painting it black and fluorescent pink. But as I was playing around with the colors, I decided that I like fluorescent pink and green. It will be built with two sections of LOC 3.1" tubing, one 12" and one 34". At first I was planning on using the 12" section as a payload bay. But I have since decided to make it zipperless, with the 12" section housing the motor tube and baffles.

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  2. #2
    Join Date
    22nd February 2013
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    I dig the flo green and pink combo.

    So much of my rocket building time has been diverted toward my "other hobby": Race Timing

  3. #3
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    A week ago or so, I started on the coupler with a bulkhead for the first design.
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    NAR 91107, Level 2

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  4. #4
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    But when I decided to switch to zipperless, I needed a coupler with a baffle plate instead of a bulkhead. My frugal side demanded that I use the bulkhead coupler somehow. It was easy enough to print out a guide to mark the hole positions, and drill 3/8" holes in the bulkhead. Voila! Bulkhead turned into a baffle! But I was concerned about the reduced strength of the bulkhead after drilling the holes in it. So I decided to double it up. I made another bulkhead, and epoxied it to the back of the baffle plate. I used an acid brush to smear epoxy all over the back of the second bulkhead, and the nut. After all the epoxy has set, I'll redrill the holes.
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    NAR 91107, Level 2

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  5. #5
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    Because of the epoxy fillet on the underside of the baffle plate, I cut a chamfer on the bulkhead doubler so it would snug up against the baffle.
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cl(VII) View Post
    I dig the flo green and pink combo.
    I don't know what it is about the color combination, but I dig it too. It is unusual, I'll give you that.
    NAR 91107, Level 2

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  7. #7
    Join Date
    18th January 2009
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    I can vouch for the fluoro pink and green color combo.

    Years ago when I competed in AMA Free Flight, my flying colors were flo pink and green...Because the pink stands out all year long and the green shows up well during the golden brown days of summer. Both colors are easily spotted on the desert sand flying venues as well.
    Cranky Kong, Certified Rocket Monkey
    "But we were promised jet packs!"

    Total Impulse in 2017: 605.77 Ns (Equivalent to an 89% I motor)
    Total Impulse since 2010: 13,872.11 Ns (Equivalent to a 35% N motor)

  8. #8
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    I don't plan on flying in the desert anytime soon. LOL
    NAR 91107, Level 2

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  9. #9
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    Got the holes drilled out in the baffle plate.
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    NAR 91107, Level 2

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  10. #10
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    Got the fin templates cut out and the plywood marked, and started cutting them on the bandsaw.
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    NAR 91107, Level 2

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  11. #11
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    As usual, I pinned the fin blanks together to cut them at the same time, and match sand them. I rounded the leading edges, and also cut the 29mm motor tube to length.
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    NAR 91107, Level 2

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  12. #12
    Join Date
    26th January 2010
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    Got the motor mount epoxied into the aft body tube, and the half moon baffles into the motor tube.
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    NAR 91107, Level 2

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  13. #13
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    Got the fin slots cut. Looks like I'll need to sand the fin tabs a bit.
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    NAR 91107, Level 2

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  14. #14
    Join Date
    29th October 2009
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    Cuyahoga Falls,Ohio
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    Really like the looks of this rocket.The color combo sure is different.It will look great in the air!

  15. #15
    Join Date
    18th January 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by qquake2k View Post
    Got the fin slots cut. Looks like I'll need to sand the fin tabs a bit.
    Better to sand to fit than the other way around. Always cut my fin tangs a bit oversize after a bad experience with some that were cut too short.

    School of hard knocks. LOL!
    Cranky Kong, Certified Rocket Monkey
    "But we were promised jet packs!"

    Total Impulse in 2017: 605.77 Ns (Equivalent to an 89% I motor)
    Total Impulse since 2010: 13,872.11 Ns (Equivalent to a 35% N motor)

  16. #16
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    You can easily sand the bottom of the fins on either side of the tab, effectively making the tabs longer.
    NAR 91107, Level 2

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  17. #17
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    Got the fins epoxied on. Had to do a little wrangling to use the fin guide with the six fins.
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    NAR 91107, Level 2

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  18. #18
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    26th January 2010
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    I'm really liking this design!
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    NAR 91107, Level 2

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  19. #19
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    I like the size.
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    NAR 91107, Level 2

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  20. #20
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    I applied the external fillets. I needed a bulkhead for the forward body tube, so I used 3/8" plywood. I'll need one for an upcoming build, so I made a second one while I was at it.
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    NAR 91107, Level 2

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  21. #21
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    You know, I'm not sure anybody is reading this thread. But just in case, I'll keep going. I epoxied the coupler into the aft section. I needed to put the forward bulkhead 8" into the forward body tube. So I used a length of plastic pipe and two couplers to keep it straight and set the depth. I also put the Estes retainer onto the motor tube with JB Weld.
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    NAR 91107, Level 2

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  22. #22
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    Got the rail buttons installed. I like these low profile buttons from Wildman. They're countersunk, so you can use flathead screws.
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    NAR 91107, Level 2

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  23. #23
    Join Date
    18th January 2009
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    I prefer the low profile rail buttons, too.
    Cranky Kong, Certified Rocket Monkey
    "But we were promised jet packs!"

    Total Impulse in 2017: 605.77 Ns (Equivalent to an 89% I motor)
    Total Impulse since 2010: 13,872.11 Ns (Equivalent to a 35% N motor)

  24. #24
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    LUNAR has one old Black Sky rail, that has less clearance than the 1010 rails. I've had problems with standard rail buttons with button head screws fitting in it.
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  25. #25
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    Sprayed sanding sealer on the fins and sanded them. I love that little sander! I've used it on a lot of rockets. After sanding, I sprayed on the primer. I had taped the two body tubes together when I epoxied the fins on, and it tore off a little of the very top layer. I think some primer and sanding will fix it. I also had to sand out the end of the motor tube with the Dremel.
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    NAR 91107, Level 2

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  26. #26
    Join Date
    6th June 2011
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    Please carry on!
    TRA 2383
    2017-clean slate, same dirty mind.
    I put all my favourite songs lyrics on Pandora

  27. #27
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    26th January 2010
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    Roger that!
    NAR 91107, Level 2

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  28. #28
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    I'm not happy with the paint. It's hard to see in the photos, but in person it looks splotchy. I've applied four coats, but I just can't get it to look good. Plus, I should have primered the aft section, the pencil lines are visible through the pink. I might primer over the pink, and reshoot it. The nose cone doesn't look too bad, I sanded it; wiped it with alcohol; applied two coats of primer; and sprayed on the pink. I'm hoping the clear coat will help, but I don't think it will. I'm half tempted to go with regular paint, instead of the fluorescent.
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    NAR 91107, Level 2

    I really, really hate bugs.

  29. #29
    Join Date
    26th January 2010
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    I hate bugs.
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    NAR 91107, Level 2

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  30. #30
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    I might go with dark green or another color along with the pink. Any suggestions?

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    NAR 91107, Level 2

    I really, really hate bugs.

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