Best method to bend balsa

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I love Quaker Oats, eat it every morning.
Add some brown sugar & Cinnamon...Yum Yum
Or fresh fruit and a bit of sugar.
Even plain I like it.
Makes a good coating for deep fried fish fillets too.

Woody's Workshop I like the idea of using it in place of bread crumbs. Too bad you can't use it as organic glue (despite it's gluey consistency), would save a bunch on all the white glue I go through.
 
Are you trying the sliding ring wing glider? Where one ring slides forward at motor eject?

If so, I built one from BT50 and BT101. Never got it to glide - it never carried any forward momentum. Just fell gently broadside.
 
Are you trying the sliding ring wing glider? Where one ring slides forward at motor eject?

If so, I built one from BT50 and BT101. Never got it to glide - it never carried any forward momentum. Just fell gently broadside.

Charles_McG Yup that's the one. I'm wondering if the BT-101 I assume you used for the rings was a bit too heavy and too small in diameter? I'm assuming the original model was vetted somehow because it was featured in the 2003 issue of the Sport Rocketry publication, and one of their photographers apparently shot a picture of it in gliding flight. Guess I'll find out when I can finally get this build finished.
 
Yes, I definitely did a downscale - and that might not be good for the design. I painted it black, red and yellow, and bare brown tube. It turned out to blend in to pear trees in autumn really well. Found it hanging on a branch the next spring :).
 
Yes, I definitely did a downscale - and that might not be good for the design. I painted it black, red and yellow, and bare brown tube. It turned out to blend in to pear trees in autumn really well. Found it hanging on a branch the next spring :).

Charles_McG I'm sure you were surprised to discover that interesting variety of fruit. Hope you were able to salvage/recycle some of it.
 
It survived remarkably well. Flew it afterwards with little/no refurbishment.

I love the concept. I just couldn't get mine to do anything other than float gently (straight down, broadside) to earth. Might have been a BT20 body, come to think of it. Maybe a longer delay would have helped. Changing configuration at apogee left it with no forward velocity.
 
I have seen the plans for it. Looks cool. I struggle a bit conceptually with the glider concept, the glider has 360 degree symmetry around the longitudinal axis, there is not fixed " Up "or "down". So there are no elevens, seems all you can do is adjust position of the "stop" for the forward ring after deployment. So allows you to adjust the CG quite well.

Other ring gliders I have seen have the rings but definitely have an " Up " and "down" side. Here is one:
https://sciencebob.com/the-incredible-hoop-glider/

Of course, there is a ton of stuff I don't (and probably will never) know, so I would love to hear other people have had success with this.
Good luck, thanks for posting this cool situation.
 
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It survived remarkably well. Flew it afterwards with little/no refurbishment.

I love the concept. I just couldn't get mine to do anything other than float gently (straight down, broadside) to earth. Might have been a BT20 body, come to think of it. Maybe a longer delay would have helped. Changing configuration at apogee left it with no forward velocity.

Charles_McG You trimmed it out before flying yes? After your experience I'm going to take extra time trimming it with light hand tosses at both 45° and level. If a C6-3 doesn't work I'll try a C6-5, although that seems like a lawn dart kind of delay. Maybe a little clay/lead weight in the nose?
 
I have seen the plans for it. Looks cool. I struggle a bit conceptually with the glider concept, the glider has 360 degree symmetry around the longitudinal axis, there is not fixed "*** or "down". So there are no elevens, seems all you can do is adjust position of the "stop" for the forward ring after deployment. So allows you to adjust the CG quite well.

Other ring gliders I have seen have the rings but definitely have an "*** and "down" side. Here is one:
https://sciencebob.com/the-incredible-hoop-glider/


Of course, there is a ton of stuff I don't (and probably will never) know, so I would love to hear other people have had success with this.
Good luck, thanks for posting this cool situation.


BABAR And then there was Wham-O's Turbo Tube: [video=youtube;h3vWazZQBK4]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h3vWazZQBK4[/video]


I saw plans for another ring "glider" circa 1960s that used a small rocket with canted fins to loft the tube up while getting it spinning for stability. I seem to recall that the forward end of the tube was thicker than the rear so it functioned somewhat like a circular airfoil. I'm wondering if this build would benefit from that? It would be a simple matter to glue a smaller balsa ring to the forward end of both existing rings.
 
I've also built that glider. I never got the booster to separate cleanly. And modern ejection charges really blow the crap out of a small vented model like that.

The ring glider itself glides great if you get the toss correctly. It really locks onto a zero-angle-of-attack path and just goes.

These things appear to be related to the Dyson bladeless fans. The inner leading airfoil makes a low pressure region that draws more air in and 'amplifies' the flow. The fan uses compressed air. The glider uses its forward motion.

Notes on that glider- it does really need the spin to work. And it really like 0 AoA. If it's thrown with a small AoA, it wobbles a bit, then visibly dampens the wobble and locks onto path. If the wobble is too great, it just kind of flops to the ground.
 
First of all, thanks GlenP or the waxed paper tip, it worked like a charm using white glue. Now for the results part: a butt joint is definitely not the best method to join the two ring ends. As you can see from the photos, although it made a really strong joint it tends to bow outward.

I'm going to retry a modified lap joint (the overlap areas sanded into a bevel to get a flatter join) basically a scarf joint as suggested by dr wogz.


View attachment 315341butt jt 1.jpg
 
neil_w Yup. It's just extremely stubborn. Although a lap joint is more unsightly, I'm going to try to solve that problem by tapering both inside joint ends.
 
Maybe try to bend the balsa hoop to a slightly smaller diameter, so the butt joint is already under compression when you glue it. You would have to keep some extra length as a lap while in the bending form, such that it gets opened up to the final diameter when edge glueing.
 
Maybe try to bend the balsa hoop to a slightly smaller diameter, so the butt joint is already under compression when you glue it. You would have to keep some extra length as a lap while in the bending form, such that it gets opened up to the final diameter when edge glueing.

GlenP Just tried that. Like all the previous attempts, it crimped badly. I'm back to the technique for my most successful bends -- wrapping it around the outside of the form. Since I've wrapped the rest of it with stretchy Ace bandages starting from the middle, overlapping the ends at this point is much easier. It does cause a slight bend where the top end overlaps the bottom, but there's no dreaded sound of fibers snapping and tearing, which is always a sure sign that it's just become scrap balsa.
 
neil_w

bTW I tried hitting the joint with ammonia solution a little while ago to try to reform the area and unfortunately (or fortunately in this case) it dissolved the white glue. I reglued the joint and wrapped it as tightly as I could with several layers of elastic Ace bandages and the joint smoothed out quite a bit. I still think the lap joint method is better even though it takes more effort, but I may just use this balsa ring to avoid depleting all the craft stores in my area of balsa. Besides, it's slowed down the build way too much at this point.
 
Charles_McG Stellar build! What kind of joining method did you use? I'm having a heck of a time with joining the ends to get a nice uniform ring (the ring ends tend to want to bow outward since this apparently is where all the "spring-back" pressure is concentrated).

BTW, would you happen to happen to still have the plans for that "Turbo Tube glider? If not could you point me in the right direction? Think I might give it a try. Thanks.
 
Bending Balsa...it's a wrap

Just a summary of results if you're going to attempt tight bends like this ring:
1. It's going to be very difficult bending it parallel to the grain (the long way) like I was. So use A-grade flexible competition balsa.
2. Soak the wood in an ammonia solution like Windex. (I soaked it for a half hour but that was probably overkill). This will break down the lignin structure and soften the balsa on the molecular level (don't worry, once the ammonia evaporates the wood will reharden and be pretty much "locked" in its new shape.
3. Soaking in hot water for several hours didn't work for me. The ammonia definitely did.
4. Wrap the balsa around the outside of the form. Trying to cram it into the inside of the form will only result in major and fatal cracking, crimping and splintering.
5. Usa flexible self-adhesive Ace bandages wound around the outside in spiral-fashion to hold it in place -- much better than closthespins. It holds tighter without leaving dent marks. Start wrapping from the middle and work your way to the ends of the balsa strip, which are the most resistant to bending.
6. Join the ends with a lap joint. It's much stronger than a butt joint. Bevel the overlap area so it'll lay flatter once joined (see pic).

The join may bow outward slightly leaving a "bump" in the ring. Even with sanding I haven't been able to get rid of it completely, just minimize it.

Postscript: Thanks to Incongruent, Rex R, dr wogz, James Duffy, and Micromeisterfor the feedback on using plywood instead of balsa. Due to time constraints I finally picked up some 1/64" birch ply and it was a breeze to form the ring and glue the ends together with a lap joint. Took all of 10 minutes.

The weight penalty is negligible. Neither balsa nor ply registered on my postage scale, meaning both weighed less than 1/10 oz, though the ply "feels" a hair heavier. I'm not building a competition model so anything less than 1/10 oz difference makes no difference to me. If it's critical to what you're building, go with balsa; it's more of a struggle in my experience but hopefully what I've discovered will cut your fabrication time drastically and help you avoid the pitfalls I didn't.

View attachment 315647 View attachment 315648
 
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Is there space between the plywood ends where the ring bends?
If so, you might be able to put CA or wood glue in the gap and clamp it down until it cures fully to fix it.
 
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