Brant's Brant - My TRA L3 build of the Rocketry Warehouse BBII

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Mine came in at 32 lb. Due to field size limits, I've only flown it on mid range L's so far.

We may have to test those field limits before too long. I have the same kit that I plan to use to certify on an M1350 or 1340. I definitely plan to seek your insight as I progress...

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I recall centering ring failure being a listed culprit of failed flights in a recent Sport rocketry magazine. IIRC, the offending ring was plywood and there was no backing plate on the U-bolt, but it could happen to fiberglass. I think you made a wise choice.

I figured it had to happen to someone sometime. I see some builds on here with a u-bolt or eye-bolt and no reinforced centering rings and it makes me cringe. Maybe they're stronger than I give them credit.
 
We may have to test those field limits before too long. I have the same kit that I plan to use to certify on an M1350 or 1340. I definitely plan to seek your insight as I progress...

Subscribed!
Both flights were on 75-3grain motors, CTI L1720 and AT L1520 4700 and 4400 feet respectively.
 
With the body tube and boat-tail mated, it's time to move on to the fins. I started by cleaning up the adhesive residue from the fins. A wipe down with mineral spirits does the trick here.
IMG_20170127_200719.jpg

Next I sanded down the sides of the fin root. This was done using a Dremel drum with 60 grit sandpaper. The top layer of resin was removed until I could barely see the fiberglass cloth, then I finished it up with 100 grit sandpaper.
IMG_20170204_173127.jpg
Sanding down to the cloth will allow for better adhesion with the epoxy when I bind it to the tube and add my internal and external fillets. You'll notice that one of these fins is a slightly different color than the other two. When I finally started getting everything together a few months ago in anticipation on the build, I noticed that one of the fins was cut wrong - it was almost a half inch shorter than the other two. I didn't notice this when I got the kit almost two years ago - I only checked to make sure all the parts were there. So, with a mis-sized fin, I emailed Mike at Madcow (who now owns all the Rocketry Warehouse inventory) and asked if I could purchase a new fin. He went beyond his responsibility as the new owner of Rocketry Warehouse and offered to replace it at no cost. It wasn't his fault - this was a mistake from the previous owners. Thanks Mike!

As with most of my builds, I printed a template for fin alignment from payloadpay.com. I stuck the template onto foamboard with some spray adhesive, extended the fin slots out 6 inches (this will let it slide half-way up the fins), then carefully cut it out with a fresh blade in my utility knife.
IMG_20170211_105818.jpg
 
So, one of the challenges with building the BBII is the fit of the fins to the boat-tail. You can see in this next photo that there is a small gap (maybe 0.5mm) between the fin and the boat-tail. I could sand down the fin root to try and lessen the gap, but fin shape rarely matches the shape of the boat-tail and there will usually still be some gappage.
IMG_20170211_135309.jpg

What I've done is put down down a few strips of 6oz fiberglass with West Systems epoxy at the fin/boat-tail interface.
IMG_20170211_153458.jpg

Now, when I set the fin, the fin presses into the still wet fiberglass strips creating a much better bond on the boat-tail than you would typically get, even if the fin matched up better.
IMG_20170211_160015.jpg

With some help from the wife and son, I tacked on all three fins using RocketPoxy epoxy, slid up the fin guide and secured the fin locations with clamps and tape. This really is a three person job. If it were just me alone, I would have done one at a time.
IMG_20170211_160116.jpg
Once secured, I measured the distance from tip to tip to make sure all fins were aligned properly - all fin tips had 59.5cm (+/- 0.5mm) between them.

IMG_20170211_161026.jpg
Here's a close-up of the boat-tail interface while it's drying.

The fins on the Black Brant can cause some trouble for recovery. They're big and they sweep back below the body tube. This means they usually take the full force of landing and are prone to breaking or cracking the fillets on impact if not adequately secured. And the bigger your rocket, the worse this problem becomes. The build of this boat-tail interface is important to avoid landing problems. As I move forward, you'll see that I will be reinforcing this fin connection with additional strips of fiberglass and Kevlar. On this build, I'm planning to lay a kelvar "fillet", then the usual epoxy fillet, then overlay that with a couple layers of 2oz fiberglass to smooth it down.

I'd be curious to hear how others have secured large, swept-backed fins in large BBs or similar rockets.

-brant
 
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Well, I'm long overdue for an update. Although busy with work the past few weeks, I've had some time to continue with the build.

Unfortunately the forum is broken and it appears that no one can upload any files today. So, I'll come back later and try again. Hope everyone's having a good weekend!

-brant
 
Now it's working again.

Ok, next step is injecting the internal fillets. I mixed up some West Systems 205 epoxy, mixed with a little chopped carbon and it makes the usual gooey slop.
IMG_20170212_141407.jpg
I injected about 30mL per root-side.

If there's one thing this rocket needs (and all BBII kits), it's longer tabs on the fins. Every kit I've built only has fin tabs on the part of the fin that matches up to the main body tube. They really need to extend the fin tabs down through the boat-tail. As I've mentioned before, these large, swept back fins are the Achilles' Heel of the Black Brant II, and other similar rockets. Their size and shape means they will take the full force of landing on recovery. It's very common to pop a fin or crack a fillet when these land without additional reinforcement. It wouldn't be too hard for kit manufacturers to just extend the tab and cut a notch in it to go around a centering ring at the body/boat-tail interface.

This is the largest BBII I've built. I'm concerned about maintaining fin integrity at landing so, I'm reinforcing the fin/boat-tail connection with a strip of Kevlar. On smaller kits, you can do this with fiberglass. I prepped the surface by sanding the area with 60 grit sandpaper. The strip was adhered using West 205.
IMG_20170216_193939.jpg


IMG_20170218_114801.jpg
Another angle.


After curing, I did a dry fit of the remaining parts to get a glimpse of this beauty.
IMG_20170220_214919.jpg
She's tall. My garage ceiling is 11 feet - this stands about 10 feet.

I think she's sexy. :wink:

And those fins suddenly don't look too big anymore.
 
Biggest fillets I've ever made. Rocketpoxy epoxy and shaped with a 1.25" PVC pipe
IMG_20170220_123427.jpg IMG_20170220_123719.jpg
Always finishes smoothly. It will need a little touchup but Rocketpoxy still makes some of the easiest and smoothest fillets

Now to hide those Kevlar strips on the boat-tail. I'm going to cover it with a couple progressively larger pieces of fiberglass. In an earlier post I mentioned that I would probably cover it with a couple pieces of 2 oz fiberglass. I changed my mind and am using two layers of 4 oz glass - it will allow for better build up and smoothing.

Prepped the area by sanding with 60 grit sandpaper.
IMG_20170304_101850.jpg

I'm using West 206 to lay down the fiberglass. I mixed up some chopped fiberglass with a little West 206 - this makes a very goopy mix and will be used to build up around the edge of the Kevlar before laying down the fiberglass. It should provide a smooth edge.
IMG_20170226_152020.jpg

I wet the whole area with the West 206 and then dabbed on the fiberglass/epoxy goop.
Here is the Kevlar with the goopy fiberglass mix around the edge.
IMG_20170304_105223.jpg

First layer of fiberglass. I used my finger to smooth out the fiberglass/epoxy goop - feels like a very smooth transition now.
IMG_20170304_105958.jpg

Second layer of fiberglass - a little bigger piece than the first.
IMG_20170304_110929.jpg
I might have been able to use slightly smaller pieces to lay over the Kevlar - this is my first time using Kevlar to reinforce the boat-tail/fin joint and it's pretty bulky. I wanted enough area on the fiberglass to create a very smooth transition to the Kevlar. I guess we'll see what it looks like after it dries and I sand it down. I think it will be fine.

Finally, I covered the fiberglass with some peel-ply
IMG_20170304_111707.jpg
I only left the peel-ply on for two and half hours because the epoxy started to pool up a little bit in a few spots. I don't have a vacuum system to keep even surface pressure. After I peeled off the peel-ply I used a small flux brush dipped in denatured alcohol to smooth out the few bumps. It looks really good now and it will cure until tomorrow.

I'll post some photos tomorrow of the dried finish and then sand it down smooth.

-brant
 
Good morning. Wait, it's afternoon already. Good scotch will do that to you.

Anyhow...

The fiberglass layers cured very nicely overnight. Too bad you can't see the photos because the forum is FUBAR again and not letting me upload files. Lots of complaints about his down in the forum feedback section. Guess we'll come back to this later.
 
Five hours later......the forum is letting us upload again - what a PITA this weekend

IMG_20170305_101152.jpg
Again....the fiberglass layers cured nicely. I can feel a little texture but that will go away with some sanding and some filler primer when I get around to painting.


And I found a new use for my HF multi-function tool. This makes smoothing out this fiberglass a lot easier
IMG_20170305_104141.jpg

Here we are after some sanding. All the layers blended together nicely
IMG_20170305_103728.jpg

It's probably not obvious from a photo, but I got exactly the finish I was looking for: these two fiberglass layers, after some additional sanding, created a very smooth transition from the fin to the Kevlar reinforcement strap.
IMG_20170305_103806.jpg
You can still feel a little hump where the Kevlar strap is, but it's very minimal. I'm actually very pleased with how this finished up. Better than I expected.


I got a little more done today...started work on my nose cone bay. This nose cone has enough space that it would be criminal not to put a second electronics bay there.

Here are the parts I have now. Still need to pick up some 3/8 all-thread.
IMG_20170305_163205.jpg
We have the 6" NC coupler, some 6" to 3" centering rings, a 3/8" U-bolt, a 3" fiberglass tube and some 3/8 coupler nuts. The plan is to make a 3" AV bay in the nose cone coupler - I'll leave it open at the top so I have tracking antennas extending up as far as they need to. I'll extend the U-bolt, which will be used to secure a Kevlar harness, through the length of the coupler to the top centering ring using the coupler nuts and some all-thread. The U-bolt will run up one side between the 3" tube and the 6" coupler and will be secured to a centering ring that sits atop of the coupler. I'll piece this together this week. Also need to cut a cover for the bottom of the 3" tube - I'll probably end up securing it in place with some #10 screws since it won't be load bearing.

Starting out by epoxying together two centering rings to make a bulkhead
IMG_20170305_164655.jpg
They're not attached to the tube yet...just using it to ensure they're centered while curing.

Thanks for watching.
 
This continues to be a great build to follow. Earlier when you were sharing your thoughts on fins I tried to upload this picture of the first BBII, with triangular fins and what appear to be two trapezoid canards, but I couldn't due to the same picture problems everyone else was having.

Here it is now... from Robin Brand's book on the Skylark I've mentioned elsewhere on this forum.

WP_20170305_11_36_03_Pro.jpg
 
This continues to be a great build to follow. Earlier when you were sharing your thoughts on fins I tried to upload this picture of the first BBII, with triangular fins and what appear to be two trapezoid canards, but I couldn't due to the same picture problems everyone else was having.

Here it is now... from Robin Brand's book on the Skylark I've mentioned elsewhere on this forum.

Thanks for your comments. And thanks for sharing the picture - glad you could get it uploaded. I don't think I've seen that picture before. It's certainly a different configuration of a Black Brant.
 
I've managed to finish laying down fiberglass over the Kevlar on the other two sides of the rocket. No new pictures of that (looks just like the first one), but I'll get a few more up this weekend. I still need to get to the hardware store for some all thread.

I'm going to have to pick up the pace on this build. I'm going in for some surgery the first week of April and my post-surgery recovery instructions say no heavy lifting for 4-6 weeks. Well, I would consider this bird heavy, so I'll try to wrap up all the gluing, sanding, fitting and hefting by then. I would also like to get a coat of primer on before then. I think I can do that - there's not too much heavy work left.

I'm going to try and get some good headway made on the nosecone bay and the main AV bay this weekend.

-brant
 
Back to the nosecone bay construction.

Here is a revised picture of all the parts that went into the bay
IMG_20170311_123350.jpg

The plan is to run the U-bolt through the aft bulk plate, secure it with the coupler nuts, extend the U-bolt up to the forward bulk plate with the 3/8" all-thread and then secure it there. I've cut out a little cover for the 3" opening that will be secured with 10-24 screws - that's the little oval piece in the center of the photo. I've opened up a few windows in the sides of the 3" tube to reduce weight a little and it will also allow me to empty out the shear pins after flight (rattling nosecones are annoying)

Attaching the 10-24 couples to the 3" tube with JB Weld.
IMG_20170312_100459.jpg
These couplers and the screws extending out the end were later encased in a nice cocoon of RocketPoxy mixed with chopped fiberglass. Sorry - forgot to get a picture of that step. My nosecone bay cover will secure itself into these coupler nuts.

A partially finished bay. I've attached the 3/8" couplers and all-thread and secured the aft bulk plate with epoxy.
IMG_20170312_221027.jpg
I thought I snapped a photo of this step before inserting it into the 6" nosecone coupler. All the connections on the U-bolt and coupler nuts were secured with red Loctite - not that they can twist anyways, but hey.

Flipped over, this is what the aft end looks like.
IMG_20170312_221108.jpg
The two screw heads you see opposite the U-bolt are 1/4" x 2" screws and I added those be a counterpoint to the U-bolt. These are secured inside with a few strips of fiberglass. You can sort of see them in the previous photo.

Here it is with the cover secured in place.
IMG_20170312_221206.jpg
I'll be adding a L-bracket to that cover to attach my tracker sled with a Missile Works RTx tracker. I really like the RTx system. I was able to get a lot of flights on it last year. Never failed me and easy to use. I've tracked down my rockets using both the handheld LCD display and having the signal broadcast to my phone via BT link. I use the software in this thread for rocket tracking: Rocket Track, see post #4 in that thread.

Forward end of the bay.
IMG_20170312_221246.jpg
This will get epoxied on after the rest of it sets, and I'll trim down the all-thread a little more.

This is a heavy-ish nosecone coupler now - weighs in a little over 2.5 pounds. It will be easy to use and access and I like that I can extend an antenna up as far into the nosecone as I want.

-brant
 
Came home from the hospital with a half liter of oxycodone to help with the discomfort.
IMG_20170407_165058 (2).jpg

Let's see if I can make a coherent post to catch up the build a little. And FYI, this work was all done before I went in for surgery.

I've secured the nosecone bay into that magnificent, conical, pointy-end of the rocket using RocketPoxy
IMG_20170402_150525.jpg

Main bay will be put together using 1/4" all-thread and the same type of 3/8" U-bolts I used for the nosecone and fin-can harness attachments. I'll attach these green terminal blocks through the bulkplate for the charges.
IMG_20170312_141429.jpg IMG_20170312_143231.jpg
I marked all the hole locations this end and then stcaked and drilled to replicate them on the other bulkplate

Terminal blocks are soldered to the ends of the wires on the JST connectors and further secured with heat shrink tubing
IMG_20170322_193344.jpg IMG_20170325_122653.jpg
I really like these terminal blocks and use them in most of my builds. I bought these because they were rated for high-temp use; unfortunately I don't recall where I bought them (I might have to scour my ebay history at some point in the future). It was a few years ago and I got a few hundred so I would never run out. :D

Here we with everything attached
IMG_20170402_145811.jpg

I'll repurpose this sled from my 3" birds for the new AV bay.
IMG_20170402_150042.jpg
I'll refresh the wires, they'll need to be longer, and then drill holes into the corners to secure it to a larger sled that will fit more snuggly into this 6" bay.

Like most of my rockets, I'll just use twist and tape on the power leads rather than use switches. My simulations for my L3 flight show it just tickling mach, so taping them to the outside of the bay won't be a problem.

Thanks for watching!
 
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Wishing you a speedy convalescence - surgery's always a bit of a shock to the system (ask me how I know this..:)) What colour scheme are you planning, the classic CARDE black and white or something else?
 
Wishing you a speedy convalescence - surgery's always a bit of a shock to the system (ask me how I know this..:)) What colour scheme are you planning, the classic CARDE black and white or something else?

Thanks! I'm hoping that I can back to work soon too. That said, I'm not supposed to lift anything over 15 pounds for the next 6 weeks, which will put me 1 week away from our club's first high power launch of the season. I'll need to recruit some help from the family to get the assembly and ground testing done by then. I'm hoping to get a test flight in at that May launch.

Eventually I'll put the classic black and white on it before my cert flight, but it will probably only have primer gray for its test flight.

-brant
 
I think I'm finally feeling well enough to pick up some tools and get back to work this week.
I have a few things that need to be completed before test flying this beauty later this month. I think I can get through them.
  1. Secure payload tube to upper AV bay (rivets/screws)
  2. Calculate shear pin requirements and drill requisite holes
  3. Calculate drag of upper and lower sections and determine if shear pins are needed in the booster
  4. Calculate and test ejection charges
  5. Sew some loops into my harnesses
  6. Cut out altimeter sled adapter for the AV bay
  7. Rewire and secure altimeters to new sled adapter
  8. Secure tracker sled in nosecone
  9. Add second coat of primer to the whole thing
  10. Attach rail buttons

The first thing I want to tackle is securing the upper payload tube to the AV bay coupler. For every rocket that I've built up to now I've used those nice push-in plastic rivets to secure the payload to the AV bay coupler. The largest rocket I have (not including this) weighs in about 15 lbs dry, and that one uses three standard 0.16" rivets. I found these 0.25" rivets and thought about using three or four of those in this build, but there's no data from the manufacturer's regarding how strong these really are.
Rivets-cropped.jpg
The larger rivets have 2.5x cross-section compared to the smaller rivets I've been using. In my mind they seem like they would be strong enough and I see other people using these on their 6" and 8" level 3 rockets and haven't heard of any failures. I also see builders use metal screws to secure the tube and I could go that route too with some 10-24 screws. Maybe it's sixes.

Anyone have thoughts on this?

-brant
 
The first thing I want to tackle is securing the upper payload tube to the AV bay coupler. For every rocket that I've built up to now I've used those nice push-in plastic rivets to secure the payload to the AV bay coupler. The largest rocket I have (not including this) weighs in about 15 lbs dry, and that one uses three standard 0.16" rivets. I found these 0.25" rivets and thought about using three or four of those in this build, but there's no data from the manufacturer's regarding how strong these really are.


Anyone have thoughts on this?

-brant

Size I use fit in 5/32 hole. [PML] I use longer ones on 6-7.5-8 inch rockets due to airframe thickness.

3 rivets on 6 & 4 on 7.5 -8 in. diameter weighing up to 65lbs. Never failed me yet.
 
I think I'm finally feeling well enough to pick up some tools and get back to work this week.
I have a few things that need to be completed before test flying this beauty later this month. I think I can get through them.
  1. Secure payload tube to upper AV bay (rivets/screws)
  2. Calculate shear pin requirements and drill requisite holes
  3. Calculate drag of upper and lower sections and determine if shear pins are needed in the booster
  4. Calculate and test ejection charges
  5. Sew some loops into my harnesses
  6. Cut out altimeter sled adapter for the AV bay
  7. Rewire and secure altimeters to new sled adapter
  8. Secure tracker sled in nosecone
  9. Add second coat of primer to the whole thing
  10. Attach rail buttons

The first thing I want to tackle is securing the upper payload tube to the AV bay coupler. For every rocket that I've built up to now I've used those nice push-in plastic rivets to secure the payload to the AV bay coupler. The largest rocket I have (not including this) weighs in about 15 lbs dry, and that one uses three standard 0.16" rivets. I found these 0.25" rivets and thought about using three or four of those in this build, but there's no data from the manufacturer's regarding how strong these really are.
View attachment 319052
The larger rivets have 2.5x cross-section compared to the smaller rivets I've been using. In my mind they seem like they would be strong enough and I see other people using these on their 6" and 8" level 3 rockets and haven't heard of any failures. I also see builders use metal screws to secure the tube and I could go that route too with some 10-24 screws. Maybe it's sixes.

Anyone have thoughts on this?

-brant

I've used both the rivets and the screws with PEM nuts. I prefer the button head cap screws with the PEM nuts mainly because it's easier to remove them. However, both the rivets and screws work well. I'll use 3 #4-40 screws in rockets under 4in, 3 #6-32 in rockets under 8in and 3-6 #8-32 in rockets 8in+. For rivet sizing Jim's numbers are good.
 
Size I use fit in 5/32 hole. [PML] I use longer ones on 6-7.5-8 inch rockets due to airframe thickness.

3 rivets on 6 & 4 on 7.5 -8 in. diameter weighing up to 65lbs. Never failed me yet.

The rivets that fit in the 5/32 hole are the size I use on all my 4" rockets (I used them based on your build threads here). I wasn't sure they would be strong enough for this bigger bird. Thanks for sharing your experience.

I've used both the rivets and the screws with PEM nuts. I prefer the button head cap screws with the PEM nuts mainly because it's easier to remove them. However, both the rivets and screws work well. I'll use 3 #4-40 screws in rockets under 4in, 3 #6-32 in rockets under 8in and 3-6 #8-32 in rockets 8in+. For rivet sizing Jim's numbers are good.

Thanks. I like the idea of being able to easily remove the screws. Those rivets can be a bear to get out sometimes - but setup is a piece a cake. I'm thinking the decision will come down to personal preference. There doesn't seem to be any huge risk one way or the other.
 
Wrapped up the few loose ends from my laundry list that I posted earlier. I think this bird needs a small test flight this weekend.

IMG_20170506_130300.jpg IMG_20170506_130606.jpg
I cut out and attached the tracking bay sled. I'll be using the Missile Works RTx system for my main tracker. As I do with most of my flights, I'll also have my Marshall radio tracker attached in the booster section for backup. I've never had a tracking failure with the RTx - the radio backup is mostly for tracking in the event of a catastrophic separation event.

This is my Altimeter sled adapter.
IMG_20170508_184019.jpg IMG_20170508_184559.jpg
The hole was cut out of the center to allow the batteries on the back of the main sled to fit through.

IMG_20170507_121307.jpg
This Dremel 543 cutting wheel is one of my favorite attachments. It's so easy to cut into fiberglass, cardboard and wood with it. And it lasts forever (which explains the cost). I've had this one over two years.


I've opted to go with rivets to connect the AV bay coupler to the payload tube. I'm using three 0.20" push rivets.

I'm using three (3) 4-40 nylon shear pins to secure the nosecone to the payload. Ground testing showed good separation of the nosecone with 4g of black powder, so I'll use 5g for my primary charge and 7.5g for my backup charge.

I'm using three (3) 2-56 nylon shear pins to secure the booster section to the coupler to prevent drag separation after motor burnout. Ground testing showed good separation with 4.5g black powder so I'm using 5.5g for the primary charge and 8.5g for the backup.

And I was able to get a second coat of primer on the whole thing
IMG_20170509_184459.jpg
I'll get the real paint job put on after the test flight.

I have a CTI L1395 Blue that I'd like to use for a test flight - should push it just past 6000 feet.

My main chute is a SkyAngle Cert-3 X-Large and I'll use a 30" Wildman Recon Recovery chute for the drogue. My total recovery weight is 32 pounds which should set this down at 17 -18 ft/s - don't want those beautiful swept back fins hitting the ground too fast.
 
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I had a successful shakedown flight of the rocket on Saturday at the Brother's launch site. I didn't film any in-flight video, as I wanted to watch the first flight without the distraction of trying to keep a camera on it. (I think that another flier may have captured the launch and we'll post that if it shows up)

Here's a photo of it on the pad just before launch:
IMG_20170520_162226.jpg

And here we are approaching the recovery area:
IMG_20170520_163543.jpg
Isn't this one the nicest flying fields you've ever seen? Having moved out here from New England, I'm not sure what to do with all my tree recovery gear. :lol:

A few flight notes:
The rocket flew on the CTI L1395 BS. Like all the Black Brant rockets I've flown, this flight was picture perfect. The up part was straight as an arrow - no roll, no shimmies, no squirrelly waggles, even with 10-15mph gusts at launch. These really are nice flying rockets. Apogee occurred at about 5500 ft - almost 1000 ft lower than my OpenRocket simulation. Certainly, the very rough coating of Rustoleum filler primer didn't help the flight characteristics.

The 30" drogue kept the forward section well above the booster, and may be slightly oversized for this rocket. I have a 24" SkyAngle drogue I may use instead for the next flight. The two halves are fairly close in weight after burnout - there's only a couple pounds difference.

Main popped at 1100 ft; I had the back-up charge set for 900 ft. The main chute was well sized and dropped her gracefully and deliberately. I can't wait for her next flight.

P.S.: As I sat here typing this I adjusted the finish on my .ork file to "Rough" and the sim dropped the apogee to 5739 ft - so, not too far off this flight. I suspect that a nice glossy finish should keep her flying close to expectations.
 
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I had a successful shakedown flight of the rocket on Saturday at the Brother's launch site. I didn't film any in-flight video, as I wanted to watch the first flight without the distraction of trying to keep a camera on it. (I think that another flier may have captured the launch and we'll post that if it shows up).

Here you go :D

[YOUTUBE]uotKwpbda2k[/YOUTUBE]

Awesome flight all around. Can't wait to see it again next month!
 
Great flight👍 looks like your cert will be a fun day with not so much pressure, nicely done
 
That was a really cool motor and flight....

So... NXRS??? it does seem to be the traditional event for the locals to get their L3's !
 
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