Dynasoar Pegasus RC B/G from Arkansas

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Crawf56

Pig Soooiiieee!!
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Well, how ya'll doin! :)

I am starting a build thread on Pegasus RC boost glider (although I think the correct term is "rocket glider" in this case).

The model was produced by Dynasoar Rocketry.

Pegasus 1.jpeg
 
So, you contact Dynasoar Rocketry at their website: https://www.dynasoarrocketry.com/

And you order a rocket glider. Then it arrives. Shipment was fairly prompt.

m_IMG_0485.jpg

m_IMG_0486.jpg

Now, my pics show the "unwrapped" components. They are wrapped in plastic/celophane, and taped to the inside of the box. Very well done; in fact you need to use scissors to get parts out, so you don't break the foam parts.
 
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I am using Zap Foam Safe CA and Kicker:

m_IMG_0490.jpg

The instructions for the Zap glue suggest putting CA on one surface, and spraying Kicker on the other surface.
 
Hey, let's glue something!

The wing is fairly assembled when it arrives:
- Ailerons are hinged in place with tape.
- Control horns are attached to the ailerons.
- Main carbon support rod is in-place.
- Slots in place for left/right carbon support rods.
- Wing sections are taped together; unfold and glue.

Here, I am gluing the front section of the wing:

m_IMG_0488.jpg

I am using wax paper to make sure glue does not stick to my wood weight.
 
Here is the 'folded' wing:

m_IMG_0489.jpg

And the glued section sitting on my bench:

m_IMG_0491.jpg
 
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The next step is to open up the holes in the control horns. You want to do this when the wing/ailerons are easier to work on.

Here are the connecting rod/wires that come with the kit:

m_IMG_0507.jpg

However, I am choosing a different method of connecting the servos to the ailerons......
 
I will be using "Micro EZ Connectors" from Du-Bro:

m_IMG_0497.jpg

In the RC airplane community, they are well known. EZ Connectors allow you to adjust the wire that connects from the servo to the aileron control horn.

NOTE: The methods I am using are NOT better than the methods advised by Dynasoar Rocketry. These methods are simply what I prefer to use. :wink:
 
So, I start by opening the hole that the EZ Connector goes into, using an xacto knife:

m_IMG_0498.jpg

When working on the control horn, you need to make sure you are holding it:

m_IMG_0499.jpg

Here is the EZ Connector on the hinge:

m_IMG_0500.jpg

I have started the retainer on the back, by hand. Once it is on the shaft, I used pliers to push the retainer on:

m_IMG_0501.jpg
 
I showed the retainer being put on with pliers. But if you put the retainer on too TIGHT, it will bind up the aileron movement. So, I used the xacto knife to "pry" the retainer off a little (by inserting the blade against the retainer and twisting the blade):

m_IMG_0503.jpg m_IMG_0504.jpg m_IMG_0502.jpg
 
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OK, time to attach the Tube to the Wing. To begin, I need to draw a line from the back to the front of the wing, to align the tube.

There is already a mark at the back of the wing. I made a "V" on the surface, to help find the center mark:

m_IMG_0508.jpg

Then laid a yardstick on the wing to make my center line:

m_IMG_0509.jpg
 
And here is my center mark on the bottom of the wing:

m_IMG_0510.jpg m_IMG_0511.jpg

Well, my line is a little off. I decided it would be better to make sure the tube is aligned with the rudder slit (and hence aligned with the rudder), so I made more marks:

m_IMG_0512.jpg
 
The Tube already has a line on it for alignment:

m_IMG_0513.jpg m_IMG_0517.jpg m_IMG_0515.jpg

The line on the inside of the tube was already at the back; I added a mark at the front of the tube to help alignment.
 
OK, let's glue some more. Sprayed my Kicker on the Wing center line; put CA on the Tube:

m_IMG_0519.jpg m_IMG_0518.jpg

Now, the glue is not instant, but you only have seconds. Line up the tube, and get it in place. I did consider using a slow glue (like Elmer's glue or epoxy) to give me 'all the time I wanted' to position the tube. But I decided that the CA/Kicker would be ok. Note that the instructions point out that you do NOT need a lot of glue for this step. Dynasoar has a good design of adding additional material to hold the tube to the wing.

Here is the Tube/Wing assembly:
m_IMG_0522.jpg m_IMG_0521.jpg
 
Now that the Tube is in place, need to add the reinforcing strips. Here they are:

m_IMG_0524.jpg m_IMG_0526.jpg

They were knocked a little, but not bad:

m_IMG_0527.jpg
 
Enjoying your thread and seeing the progress.

I can't see your attachments in the last post so not sure what happened on the motor mount. I'm using bob smith super gold plus or hot stuff ufo thick foam safe CA and haven't had any issues gluing foam to cardboard, or cardboard to cardboard. If you did get CA on the motor mount make sure you sand it back down to cardboard so that the titebond can soak in, otherwise you have a titebond to CA joint and that probably isn't very solid.

However one note, I would not follow the procedure of applying to one side and then kicker to the other. I've found that it is almost impossible to get things aligned perfectly on first contact. I think the better approach is to get the parts aligned then spray the kicker into the joint to set them once they are aligned. For the reinforcing strips, the little bends that apparently happened in shipping won't matter for their use which is just to provide an extra glue joint for reinforcing the wing. My newer kits are all mid mounted wings and don't use them.

For the pushrods, I would have put the ez links on the servo arm and left the z bends at the control horn ends, you still have adjustment of the ez link but the servo arms have a lot more meat on them for enlarging the holes for the ez connector shaft.

Keep up the good work!

Frank
 
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Enjoying your thread and seeing the progress.

I can't see your attachments in the last post so not sure what happened on the motor mount. I'm using bob smith super gold plus or hot stuff ufo thick foam safe CA and haven't had any issues gluing foam to cardboard, or cardboard to cardboard. If you did get CA on the motor mount make sure you sand it back down to cardboard so that the titebond can soak in, otherwise you have a titebond to CA joint and that probably isn't very solid.

However one note, I would not follow the procedure of applying to one side and then kicker to the other. I've found that it is almost impossible to get things aligned perfectly on first contact. I think the better approach is to get the parts aligned then spray the kicker into the joint to set them once they are aligned. For the reinforcing strips, the little bends that apparently happened in shipping won't matter for their use which is just to provide an extra glue joint for reinforcing the wing. My newer kits are all mid mounted wings now in any case and don't need them.

For the pushrods, As you noted every RC person has their preferred method of control connections. I try to avoid things that can work loose, so am not a fan of the ez links in general and I do any fine tuning of control surface centering after gluing the servos down using the electronic sub trims in my radio. I have used ez links in a few places where I'm recessing the servos into a fixed recess or slot and can't adjust the mechanical zero when I'm gluing them in place. One note, the micro control horns don't have a lot of meat on them when enlarging the holes for the ez link shafts, I would have put them on the servo arm and left the z bends at the control horn ends, you still have adjustment of the ez link but the servo arms have a lot more meat on them.

Keep up the good work!

Frank

Frank, thanks for looking in on my thread. :) I will sort out the pics; not sure what happened.

CA GLUE:
- I think the glues you recommended are superior for this application. I used what I had on hand.
- I did sand the motor mount before re-gluing. Thanks for keeping an eye on me.
- I will follow your advice on the CA & Kicker.

EZ LINKS & MICRO EZ LINKS:
- I agree with your comments on EZ Links. In my medium to large RC models, I do not use them.
- I have had much better luck with MICRO EZ Links on small RC models, EDF RC jets, and other rocket/boost gliders. (Also, EZ links and Micro EZ links vary greatly in quality, depending on the brand.)
- Your method of using a Z-bend wire is the most secure.
 
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