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How (or where) did you acquire that material? It sounds very intriguing (my first 3D printer should be here soon) but it's shown as "not available" in the site to which you linked.

I was available off the many racks of stuff at work. :)
 
Dan,
Nice Ultimate you've got started! I hope you've taken into account the thrust rings on your cases (or maybe your research cases have smaller rings?). I had to tweak the hole spacing on the rings from LOC in order to fit Aerotech cases in all holes, but they still fit!

Look forward to seeing what you stuff in it.
-Ken

Here's why I made the 3D printed rings...the thrust rings all clear each other nicely versus the stock rings.

ImageUploadedByRocketry Forum1481895742.580506.jpg
 
I think I've seen this done with half the outers "up" and half "down", such that the motors are separated by only one thrust ring width.

Some people put the central motor "down" under the three "up" outboards, fastening those three.

My favorite is probably with the central motor "up-up", as that thrust ring holds the "up", and those thrust rings hold the "down".

If the rings were very thick, I suppose I'd be concerned about heating from adjacent plumes.
 
I think I've seen this done with half the outers "up" and half "down", such that the motors are separated by only one thrust ring width.

Some people put the central motor "down" under the three "up" outbiards, fastening those three.

My favorite is probably with the central motor "up-up", as that thrust ring holds the "up", and those thrust rings hold the "down".

When I get my retainer from Nat it will all make sense. It's a convergence of additive (3D printing) and subtractive (CNC router) processes to create a nifty outcome.
 
I have a Monoprice Maker Select i3 v2 (https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=13860) that I have modified per the Wiki articles online (https://3dprinterwiki.info). Biggest mods were the z-brace to solidify the z-axis, adding a glass printing bed, then printing a new spool holder and filament guide. Printers are almost like milling machines...you can upgrade them extensively by printing parts on the actual printer you intend to upgrade!

The printer has logged 15 days and 20.5 hrs of print time and has worked its way through 1149.1m of filament without a single clog using the off-the-shelf extruder.

I use Cura as my slicer software and Hatchbox filament from Amazon. If someone is interested in learning my settings, shoot me a PM.
I have the same printer. Love it. Although Monoprice lists it as a v2, it has the same improved features as the Wanhao Duplicator i3 v2.1 that it is re-badged from. A major advantage is the HUGE user base since there are so many Prusa i3 clones out there including many of the versions I'd recommend - either the Monoprice i3 or Wanhao i3.

Of the mods you did, was the insulating washer under the heated bed plate nut one of them? It's a safety mod.

https://3dprinterwiki.info/wanhao-i3-safety-notice-bed/

WANHAO DUPLICATOR I3 SHOULD PUT AN END TO “CHEAPEST PRINTER” KICKSTARTERS
September 14, 2016

https://hackaday.com/2016/09/14/wan...-put-an-end-to-cheapest-printer-kickstarters/

Is the Wanhao Duplicator the best printer on the market? Not at all. Is it a contender for best low-price printer? Definitely. If you consider it a low priced kit printer instead of a finished product then it’s possible that, in its price class, it is hands down the best out there.

That intro is misleading as it is NOT a "kit" in the usual sense, it's just a few large sections separated for shipping box size reduction which are easily bolted together.
 
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Ah..... I suspected as much. Well, here's hoping the material becomes more readily available, if it's half as good as the vendor's web site makes it sound. :D

I will let you know how well it holds up tomorrow. I've got two F32 SU motors in the box that will fly in PS-II kits tomorrow. Should be a good test.
 
A friend made me a couple of parts for my speakers with his printer. I was a little disappointed with all the roughness and ridges, granted it was an inexpensive model he used.
 
I will let you know how well it holds up tomorrow. I've got two F32 SU motors in the box that will fly in PS-II kits tomorrow. Should be a good test.

They worked PERFECTLY today with no melting whatsoever with both an F32 SU and an F39 reload. So we're good to go!
 
They worked PERFECTLY today with no melting whatsoever with both an F32 SU and an F39 reload. So we're good to go!
I didn't see on the website exactly what the material is. Do you happen to know?

I've been using PETG for a while and love it...as easy as PLA to print and better with heat than ABS. I'm printing some parts with it for the 29mm min-diameter rockets I'm working on.
 
I didn't see on the website exactly what the material is. Do you happen to know?

I've been using PETG for a while and love it...as easy as PLA to print and better with heat than ABS. I'm printing some parts with it for the 29mm min-diameter rockets I'm working on.

I don't, but can ask our lab tech on Monday to see if he does. There aren't any signs of it getting close to melting. Wasn't soft or anything upon landing, it was the first thing I checked.
 
Glad to hear the motor adapters worked out for you. Fit was good on the design?

-Hans
 
I didn't see on the website exactly what the material is. Do you happen to know?

I've been using PETG for a while and love it...as easy as PLA to print and better with heat than ABS. I'm printing some parts with it for the 29mm min-diameter rockets I'm working on.

I love PETG, but do some testing with glues. It can be difficult to get glue to work well with it. For gluing two PETG parts, the best I've found so far is PVC pipe glue. I haven't tried bonding to other materials yet.
 
That's great to know, thanks! I was toying with 3D printed recovery harness retainers for my 29MD last night. They look good printed...we'll see how strong they are.
 
Just made up a quickie CAD model for a display stand to fit my 'mini fat boy', as the motor hook comes down too far. Uploaded to Thingiverse. Should fit just about any 13mm motor tubed rocket that won't stand on its own fins.

May have to come up with something for 18mm motors too if people like it.

-Hans
 
Glad to hear the motor adapters worked out for you. Fit was good on the design?

-Hans

It was, I used them without the back ring, and I actually modded them to 28.5mm OD and 24.5 ID. The first ones wouldn't fit either the motors or the 29mm mount.
 
Not a rocket part per se, but a rocketry part none-the-less. This is a very simplistic drill guide for my 3" stepped bulkheads on my 76mm MD project.

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Anyone use Hatchbox filament and want to make a 29mm spool rocket?

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Nope , I bought hatchbox abs once I had to send it back it was no good. Extremely brittle .

I do remember a 54mm motor case is just right for a makeshift spool holder for those spools though.
 
Nope , I bought hatchbox abs once I had to send it back it was no good. Extremely brittle .

I do remember a 54mm motor case is just right for a makeshift spool holder for those spools though.

They're like 2.140" ish ID, so it sounds like it's a standard dimension. This spool is ~2.6" wide, so you may be able to use my design to make a spool rocket.

Hatchbox PLA is is quite good, or at least I have figured out to get good results from it.
 
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