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I took an introductory course at my local library on how to use their MakerBot. Cool because I can now try 3D printing parts. What I'm cautious about is the fact that they only use PLA. I don't know if it's high-temp, just that the nozzle is set at 210C.

Question:
Considering I don't have a choice of another material, what kind of parts are best suited to PLA?

For low and mid-power, don't worry about it. I've seen working PLA parts used for a lot of things in those. If you get really into it and want higher temp or stronger parts, there are many services available to print your designs. Printers are also getting cheaper.
 
We mostly use PLA, it's cheaper, and has a lower melting point. Also, the 'vapor' isn't harmful. (ABS printing, in a confined space, the fumes / off-gassing can be toxic) ABS is more durable than PLA, but that depends on a bunch of factors.. ABS is a plastic, and not high temp. The nozzle is set at 210°F and that melts the material so that it'll flow.

For us, our use is prototyping. We have screwed our parts to other things, and they have held up quite well.

Would I use it for rocket parts? No.
 
PLA would probably be good for things like avionics sleds etc, inside the rocket. Unfortunately it has a low melting point which means it may not hold dimensions well (it will "creep" under stress) if it is used structurally in a rocket on a hot sunny day.

People have used it for fincans, NCs on LPR stuff. Fly-away rail guides for HPR are also available. So many different uses. Depending on the design (refer to my earlier post where I say that the material properties need to be considered!) there should be no problems and a lot of fun. Some people will tell you it won't work. Don't necessarily believe them. Think and experiment :)

The bottom line is don't let the possible failure put you off learning about how to make this process happen. 3D printing will only improve as it evolves. Jump on the train now :)
 
I need to sharpen my CAD skills for sure. This is cool.

I can see the future TRF having a 3D Printing sub-forum. Give it a couple years - once printer prices come way down to a couple hundred bucks.
 
For ABS acetone smoothing, a good intermediate to liquid or vapor application, is aerosol using something like this. I use it when I don't want to bother setting up the vapor stuff.
 
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I'm pretty regularly using 3D printed parts these days. Heck, I just finished prototype #1 for a baffle to use in my 4-29SS. Done a few av-bays, bulkheads, spacers, tail cones and other stuff. Though I'm not completely happy with this baffle and will do a 2nd version I think. Not a problem with the 3D printing, just that I don't like the design as much once it was finished being printed.

All a matter of knowing the limitations and capabilities of the materials and process.
 
Learning CAD is never a bad idea. You can use it to present to technical and business people alike. I use Solidworks and the Makerbot Desktop tool for the rare occasions I get access to a 3D printer.
Broncbuster.png
 
FYI/FWIW

Black Friday special: HobbyKing has the FlashForge Dreamer selling for less than half price at US$457.80 (vs. $1099). I just ordered one myself along with a bunch of filaments for ~US$550 shipped via FedEx. I does do ABS.

FlashForgeDreamer.jpg


Link (US plug...EU plug was sold out):
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/3d-printer-dreamer-2.html

Amazon (for reviews & info) 4.3 out of 5 stars with 114 reviews.

Reviews...
3DEngr.com (rated #2)
3DPrint.com (2014 review)
3DHubs.com (8.6 out of 10)

HobbyKing also has the filaments on BF sale (compare discounts and it should be 1.75mm):
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/catalog/category/view/s/black-friday-weekend-madness/id/6689

Disclaimer - I'm inexperienced with 3D printing; however have been looking to buy one for the past 2 years. YMMV & do your research; however this seems perfect for me and at a fantastic price, so I thought I'd share. :)
 
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Is this correct? I haven't seen anyone else say this. It seems like a strange choice given the conditions at that end of a burning motor.

Yes, I got my level one certification(JR) on an H115DM that had a 3d printed thrust ring however the 3d printed rings are thicker than the old ones, and if you are using a screw plate for motor retention, then you need longer screws, especially if you are also using a 38-29mm adapter.

20170118_084645.jpg

note: the one on the right is the old ring and the left is the 3d printed one.
 
We mostly use PLA, it's cheaper, and has a lower melting point. Also, the 'vapor' isn't harmful. (ABS printing, in a confined space, the fumes / off-gassing can be toxic) ABS is more durable than PLA, but that depends on a bunch of factors.. ABS is a plastic, and not high temp. The nozzle is set at 210°F and that melts the material so that it'll flow.

For us, our use is prototyping. We have screwed our parts to other things, and they have held up quite well.

Would I use it for rocket parts? No.

Use PURL scientific ABS its a dream to print(just need acetone slurry or hairspray), and I have used it successfully on mid power nosecones and transition sections for Tarc plus motor retention systems it needs to be printed at +230C for good layer adhesion.PURL scientific cost $20 for 2Kg, and it is important to note that ABS is about 75% the density of PLA meaning that for the same price you get 25% more print volume for the same weight. 20160918_143529.jpg20161017_053138.jpg20161017_082657.jpg
 
PLA would probably be good for things like avionics sleds etc, inside the rocket. Unfortunately it has a low melting point which means it may not hold dimensions well (it will "creep" under stress) if it is used structurally in a rocket on a hot sunny day.

People have used it for fincans, NCs on LPR stuff. Fly-away rail guides for HPR are also available. So many different uses. Depending on the design (refer to my earlier post where I say that the material properties need to be considered!) there should be no problems and a lot of fun. Some people will tell you it won't work. Don't necessarily believe them. Think and experiment :)

The bottom line is don't let the possible failure put you off learning about how to make this process happen. 3D printing will only improve as it evolves. Jump on the train now :)

A few early fly-away rail guides were made of PLA, but they have been made of PETG for quite some time now. It has a higher glass temperature, better layer adhesion, and just the right amount of impact resistance to survive a landing but break during a fin strike (instead of tearing off the fin).
 
FYI/FWIW

Black Friday special: HobbyKing has the FlashForge Dreamer selling for less than half price at US$457.80 (vs. $1099). I just ordered one myself along with a bunch of filaments for ~US$550 shipped via FedEx. It does do ABS.

FlashForgeDreamer.jpg


Link (US plug...EU plug was sold out):
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/3d-printer-dreamer-2.html

Amazon (for reviews & info) 4.3 out of 5 stars with 114 reviews.

Reviews...
3DEngr.com (rated #2)
3DPrint.com (2014 review)
3DHubs.com (8.6 out of 10)

HobbyKing also has the filaments on BF sale (compare discounts and it should be 1.75mm):
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/catalog/category/view/s/black-friday-weekend-madness/id/6689

Disclaimer - I'm inexperienced with 3D printing; however have been looking to buy one for the past 2 years. YMMV & do your research; however this seems perfect for me and at a fantastic price, so I thought I'd share. :)

Just an update that I did purchase this printer along with a nice supply of filaments (at bargain prices!) and have been printing different things and finding it very rewarding - it's actually an enjoyable (however slow) hobby. I printed some items for Xmas gifts as well.

I found that 3D printing, like rocketry, has a learning curve. I actually think it's similar to cooking...you have to be mindful of ingredients, temperature, etc. and it all can add up to a great result (or a horrid mess). :)

Here's some sample prints:

container_2016-12-25_10.35.34.jpg


82196fc5f7a0a2b44304be730fd2c294_preview_featured.jpg

88919abc4a26db982821912cd35e7cc4_preview_featured.jpg


I do plan on printing rocket related items soon and have a big group of free download designs I can try (currently one of the best things about this hobby right now...tons of FREE plans easily downloaded). Only catch is that as items get bigger, it becomes many more hours of printing and any print can fail at any point...even after 10 hours of printing and 90% done. Doubling the size of a small item can make the print time 3x longer on a hobby printer. Luckily after setting it up and watching it start, you just need to check on it every once in a while (like a cake! lol).

I'll update again once I print some rocket stuff. Of note is that I'm limited in the amount I can print ABS since it should be well ventilated and that's tough during winter with windows closed (I live in the Northeast).
 
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I've been 3D printing bits for a few weeks. So far I've done a nose cone and fin can and a few small components. The first rocket flew really well at our club meeting.

I'm currently working on a testbed rocket using printed components and bits salvaged from an Estes pro. As I write this there is a set of 4 rail lugs running on the printer.
 
This is a mod of another holder for quadcoptershttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1606642 . It is one of the first things I've printed, and as such leaves much to be desired. I don't need any more (yet), I printed out four, but I really think someone with more experience with this could make some real improvements. First, move the mounting points to a standard width (say, the same as a RRC3). Also, it really needs to be increased by 2 or 3 percent to fit the board better. I can post or send the .stl to anyone interested, or post it somewhere appropriate. I don't know Facebook that well, and I certainly don't know where rocket folks post 3d printer files. I didn't print the covers because they're not needed on a sled.808mount.jpg
 
FWIW, if you're not following the 'repository' thread, I've posted a lot of printable parts there; and more to come.
 
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