Eggtimer products, go or no go?

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fyrwrxz said:
Okay-I'm gonna put my foot down here. If you can (A) build a freakin' rocket (B) assemble an Aerotech reload (C) know which end of the igniter goes where; you have sufficient hand/eye coordination to at least build a Quark. During his sale you can buy 3 of 'em for the price of (pick your vendor) and get 'er done. If, on the other hand, you pick up a soldering iron and it smells like chicken-you're holding it the wrong way........
Click to expand...

+1 Dave, and it only gets easier if you watch a couple of videos on youtube about SMT soldering, and have a decent soldering iron or soldering station. Eggtimers website even has a great photo section for information during assembly. Other than a couple of simple tools like tweezers ( both spring clamp type, and regular point tweezers), a roll of solder wick, and a magnifier. I just picked up 2 more Quarks and a Quantum bringing my total to five Quarks, one TRS, and a Quantum.
 
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I recently bought a TRS and LCD, they were both really my first soldering project. (I had done a little soldering.). I did a build thread of both. It was easier than I expected, took a little longer than expected, but I really enjoyed building them.

I frankly just bought a Quantum because I wanted another project. Customer Service second to none almost like having Chris look over your shoulder.
 
Just FYI, I tested a Wifi switch inside a spiral wound fiberglass A/V bay with aluminum ends, two 1/4" steel threaded rods running through it, all inside a 98mm carbon fiber airframe. I was able to arm and disarm the switch with no issues, even from a different floor of my house. While there is a lot about CF blocking RF, it isn't completely opaque to the Wifi signal that the Eggtimer switch uses, at least in a 98mm CF Mongoose.

As always, YMMV.


Tony
 
manixFan said:
Just FYI, I tested a Wifi switch inside a spiral wound fiberglass A/V bay with aluminum ends, two 1/4" steel threaded rods running through it, all inside a 98mm carbon fiber airframe. I was able to arm and disarm the switch with no issues, even from a different floor of my house. While there is a lot about CF blocking RF, it isn't completely opaque to the Wifi signal that the Eggtimer switch uses, at least in a 98mm CF Mongoose.

As always, YMMV.


Tony
Click to expand...

I am impressed! My 54mm CF Mongoose totally blocks the Wifi signal from my switch. Then again, the AV is also CF!
 
I have a Mongoose 29 with a Quantum, and it works from a short distance. You have to be within about 3' to pick up the WiFi SSID and connect, once you do you can step away about 10'. That's good enough to be useable.
 
cerving said:
I have a Mongoose 29 with a Quantum, and it works from a short distance. You have to be within about 3' to pick up the WiFi SSID and connect, once you do you can step away about 10'. That's good enough to be useable.
Click to expand...

I tried every which way from Friday on my Mongoose 54 with your Wifi switch. It would only work if I pulled the AV bay out of airfarme.
 
manixFan said:
Just FYI, I tested a Wifi switch inside a spiral wound fiberglass A/V bay with aluminum ends, two 1/4" steel threaded rods running through it, all inside a 98mm carbon fiber airframe. I was able to arm and disarm the switch with no issues, even from a different floor of my house. While there is a lot about CF blocking RF, it isn't completely opaque to the Wifi signal that the Eggtimer switch uses, at least in a 98mm CF Mongoose.

As always, YMMV.


Tony
Click to expand...

Interesting. Was there a motor case in the rocket? Typically if the MMT is empty the radio signal can pass through it. I've never seen a radio signal pass through CF good enough to actually connect to anything (like an RC controller, GPS, tracking system, etc.). Another thing to consider is if there is a place on the rocket the isn't CF (like a switch band) then that would provide radio transparency.​
 
timbucktoo said:
I tried every which way from Friday on my Mongoose 54 with your Wifi switch. It would only work if I pulled the AV bay out of airfarme.
Click to expand...

The CF may be thicker in the Mongoose 54, it's pretty thin in the 29. You could go with a FG AV bay and switch band, chances are that it would let enough RF out to allow the WiFi to work. Of course, you'd be giving up a few grams...
 
cerving said:
The CF may be thicker in the Mongoose 54, it's pretty thin in the 29. You could go with a FG AV bay and switch band, chances are that it would let enough RF out to allow the WiFi to work. Of course, you'd be giving up a few grams...
Click to expand...

I've put the switch to other good use although that was my initial intention!
 
timbucktoo said:
I am impressed! My 54mm CF Mongoose totally blocks the Wifi signal from my switch. Then again, the AV is also CF!
Click to expand...
I'll try it in my 54mm CF Mongoose as well. I can't recall if the A/V bay I got with my Mongoose is fiberglass or CF. I also have a 38mm ShadowAero Raven3 which has a very thick CF body tube. That will be another good test.

This was using an iPhone 6S+. I'll try with an iPhone 5s and 4s as well. It will be interesting to see if there is any difference in range between the various models.


Tony
 
manixFan said:
This was using an iPhone 6S+. I'll try with an iPhone 5s and 4s as well. It will be interesting to see if there is any difference in range between the various models.


Tony
Click to expand...

Mine is a 5s. Phone was literally next to air frame. Nothing & my coupler is definitely CF.
 
Ok, so I tested my Mongoose 54mm CF and a ShadowAreo Raven3 38mm CF airframe. I had the same experience as Tim with the 54mm Mongoose - no signal at all. Which would make sense if the A/V is also CF - that would be a lot to penetrate.

I was able to arm/disarm the switch through just the airframe, so clearly it's the double thickness of the A/V bay and airframe.

With the Raven3 I had a bit better luck. Using an iPhone 4 I was able to arm/disarm the altimeter as long as I kept the phone within about 2 ft. Any farther and no joy. My iPhone 6S+ kept switching to my regular house network as soon as the I slid the A/V bay closed - the iPhone 4 is not set to auto connect to a wifi network so I suspect I could have gotten the 6 to work if I told it to forget my house network.

I currently use Featherweight magnetic switches in the Raven which work well due to their small size and low power consumption. I have it setup for redundant dual deploy with is quite a challenge in a 38mmm airframe so space is a big concern.

Clearly CF airframes are hit or miss. My main goal is to use the wifi switches with the 4" airframe so I'm really glad they work with it. I'll have plenty of room in the 4" A/V bay for the switches and larger batteries.

Now I have to either build the switches and get them to work. Will make for an interesting afternoon.


Tony
 
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A question for cerving - have you given any thought to using something similar to the WiFi switch as a launch controller for LPR/MPR rockets? I was playing with the test function on the Eggtimer Quantum, and thinking it would be perfect for controlling launches (leave a box at the pad, launch from your phone at the flight line). Probably not a big club launch, but certainly "park flying" and the occasional class I shot in the desert.

The WiFi switch itself would probably work as-is with different software / control webpage (for one, you'd want a big "ABORT" button"), or the Quantum if you used it to switch a high-power relay (but then you're "wasting" the baro etc. on the Quantum). Heck you could even do big rockets if you had an external Wi-Fi antenna to get you far enough away.

Anyway, it's definitely a product I'd buy if you made one!
 
You're not the first one to mention this. I've had a few people actually use a Quantum as a LPR launch controller, if I hadn't built a pretty decent one myself out of Ace Hardware & Radio Shack bits a few years back I'd probably be using one myself. It works from over 100' away. It satisfies all the basic requirements: arming and disarming, continuity, momentary operation. The WiFi Switch does not... it doesn't have momentary operation, and it also doesn't have provision for a separate battery (although it would not be difficult to wire one in).

Now you got me going... let's see, I got a few extra project boxes and some clips, I can probably dig up some wire, switches, and an extra 1000 mAH 2S LiPo, and for sure I can find an extra Quantum...
 
I used my Quantum for testing ignitors and hybrid starter grains... I see no reason I couldn't use it as a launch controller, for LPR anyway. The range is probably too low for HPR pads, though it can certainly handle the power needed for the big ignitors.
 
I only mentioned the WiFi switch since it has all the hardware you need (I think) for a launch controller, just without the software to really operate as one. On the other hand the Quantum has the software but excess hardware. So the Quantum would work (and I might just hack a setup, need to get an extra Quantum though), it's just not optimized. Anyway I'd just wanted to throw it out there as something I'd pay money for if you ever get bored and want to expand your product line even more :wink:
 
Cantennas are highly directional... you have to be pointed EXACTLY at the source of the radio signal. They're fine for long-distance fixed point-point connections, not so good for anything mobile. A patch antenna is a better option for mobile devices, it has a pretty good compromise between gain and beamwidth, which is why they're used extensively with GPS receivers. If you don't know where your signal is going to be coming from (like when you lose sight of your rocket and you don't know what the wind did with it) then your best bet is the good 'ol whip.
 
Directional antennas don't help on devices that don't have external antenna connections either. I use my phone to work with my Quantum. I suppose I might be able to use a USB-OTG wifi, maybe... One could also use a DD-WRT box in client-bridge mode, but you're starting to get awful complex for a 2-channel launcher. :)
 
My soldering skills are primitive, I think. I just this week made a mess of a tiny wire connector repair when a molten solder ran downhill. But that was using a big spoon and not being at all careful. I'd be willing to practice a bit. I have a little stand, magnifiers, and would be happy to get a more precise soldering device. I use reading glasses for any small print.

Do I sound like a reasonable candidate to assemble an EggFinder? If not, what would you recommend as the basic on board GPS finder, non-HAM, non-solder? I don't really deep deployment electronics, altimeter, telemetry, etc.

Note, I have found the EggFinder assembly instructions, though the link to assembly pictures on the we site yields no pictures.
 
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cerving said:
You're not the first one to mention this. I've had a few people actually use a Quantum as a LPR launch controller, if I hadn't built a pretty decent one myself out of Ace Hardware & Radio Shack bits a few years back I'd probably be using one myself. It works from over 100' away. It satisfies all the basic requirements: arming and disarming, continuity, momentary operation. The WiFi Switch does not... it doesn't have momentary operation, and it also doesn't have provision for a separate battery (although it would not be difficult to wire one in).

Now you got me going... let's see, I got a few extra project boxes and some clips, I can probably dig up some wire, switches, and an extra 1000 mAH 2S LiPo, and for sure I can find an extra Quantum...
Click to expand...

I hope you take it as a high compliment that this comment made me think of this:
https://xkcd.com/356/
...because my brain does the same thing.
 
For longer distances, just use the TRS... It satisfies all the requirements and would work with the existing LCD receiver. You can put a 3db whip on each end and get all the range you need. I would rather see a controller that uses the radio transceiver because the signal connection is less finicky over range.
 
Tramper Al said:
Note, I have found the EggFinder assembly instructions, though the link to assembly pictures on the we site yields no pictures.
Click to expand...

My ISP pretty much screwed up the photo links awhile back, but all the pictures are under the "Photos" link on the left sidebar. I keep making a resolution to completely redo the web site, as products are introduced it's gotten rather messy, but finding the time to do it is problematic.
 
NateLowrie said:
For longer distances, just use the TRS... It satisfies all the requirements and would work with the existing LCD receiver. You can put a 3db whip on each end and get all the range you need. I would rather see a controller that uses the radio transceiver because the signal connection is less finicky over range.
Click to expand...

I will point out that a 900Mhz Yagi is helpful if one wants to increase the ground footprint of 900Mhz trackers. They aren't that pricey: https://www.ebay.com/itm/GSM-850-90...929405?hash=item25b0f978fd:g:lj8AAOSwNSxVCvGN

If you want be be able to get a "fix" sooner when the rocket is lying stationary on the ground. This can do it, they aren't that pricey and are easy to carry. Just disconnect the antenna one was using for in flight use, plug in the Yagi and point it in the
last known direction.

Yeah, one can simply walk toward the last known position and likely get a new fix but I am an anxious person and want to hear that beep that tells me "I will get you back" as soon as possible. (Unless it's in an inaccessible place like a high tension wire!)

Kurt
 
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I just finished my first Eggtimer--a Quantum. It would be an insult to tool-using humans everywhere to call my soldering skills Cro-Magnon, but with a borrowed temperature-controlled soldering iron, my wife's reading glasses, and my bike's headlight, it all came together. Plus some help from Cris when one of the 472 resistors went astray. I've made one through-mount part and had never done SMT soldering before, and I got a functional unit. I can't say the joints are pretty, but it works. Really, you can do this as long as you go carefully and follow the directions.
 

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