Starship Avalon: build thread

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This is printed on white, not cut colored vinyl. So the issue is the ink color.

For a variety of reasons, this job worked better as a printed job. Perhaps (had I been so inclinced) I could have done a hybrid cut/printed job, but that would have been a lot more work to plan out and would probably have cost quite a bit more as well.
 
Then it is very unlikely Mark could have printed in fluorescent colors. OK then. Screw the fluorescent green and match what he printed. I'll bet if you change the colors to match, you might even like the end result.
 
I know he couldn't print fluorescent, but I was still expecting a brighter green. No matter, my task is to try and match the paint. If I can come close I'll be happy.
 
I know he couldn't print fluorescent, but I was still expecting a brighter green. No matter, my task is to try and match the paint. If I can come close I'll be happy.
I meant "couldn't" also. Bad typo. Hey Neil, check out dis here page. I didn't know Testor's made fluorescent paints. CLICK Prolly has it in spray also. I haven't looked closely.

uh DUMB!!!! You aren't looking for that! (Bangs self in the head)
 
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All sanded, within reason:
ImageUploadedByRocketry Forum1497541584.695948.jpg

Not an easy project, many nooks and crannies to deal with.

Ready for final coat of black. In several places (edges) I sanded through everything and exposed the paper; I'll hand touch those at the end if necessary. Not gonna try too hard to get full spray coverage of those spots; that's what got me into trouble the first time.

On the paint color-matching front, I think my existing can of Rusto 2x Key Lime is a decent enough match to go with. I'm a little bummed because that's not really the color I wanted here, but whatever. Onward.
 
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Got a new and hopefully final coat of black on yesterday. It's nowhere close to perfect but seems much better than before. For this rocket, the design will have to be the star because the paint certainly won't be.

Spraying into all the nooks and crannies was again a problem, although this time I was sufficiently aware going in that I was able to avoid most problems with runs. The source of the problem is the helical pieces, which both (a) block access to the fins and the body tube, and (b) are hard to paint precisely, and overspray from painting them messes up the finish of parts behind them. In retrospect, my original plan A of attaching them after painting would have been a better idea, despite the fact that painting a bunch of little pieces separately brings its own issues. I will note this for the future builds.

Whenever I see a picture of a well-finished rocket with a lot of nooks and crannies I *always* wonder how the painting was done. I'd really love to see videos of people painting some of these; words (when I can get them) don't really convey the whole process. Unfortunately such video is (almost) never taken, and for justifiable reasons. I shall keep trying to learn from my own experience, and maybe figure it all out one day.

I think with larger rockets (HPR and such) it's a lot easier since there's simply more space between things to get in there with the spray. But for small, intricate LPR stuff I remain mystified.

Anyway, the black coat is done, next up is to mask and apply the key lime. Fortunately, given the new design, that's actually a pretty straightforward task. Hopefully I'll get some time to attack it next weekend.
 
Not great but not bad.
ImageUploadedByRocketry Forum1498352841.724652.jpg ImageUploadedByRocketry Forum1498352853.389024.jpg

Looks a bit better in person. Fortunately this rocket does not live or die by the quality of the black paint job.
 
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"It's so ... black!" said Ford Prefect, "you can hardly make out its shape ... light just seems to fall into it!"
 
"It's so ... black!" said Ford Prefect, "you can hardly make out its shape ... light just seems to fall into it!"

Any HHGTTG quote gets +++ points from me, but I'm embarrassed to say I don't remember what part that's from?

In any case I do quite look forward to this thing being not all black sometime in the not too distant future...
 
Disaster Area's stunt ship in the Milliways Car Park.
 
Marvin can open it. He has been waiting in the cark park for "Five hundred and seventy-six thousand million, three thousand five hundred and seventy-nine years"
 
Masking the nose section for the green coat is complete.
ImageUploadedByRocketry Forum1498696496.353718.jpg

This was more of a PITA than it should have been. Getting the ends of the tape to sit properly in the corner, up against the centering ring, was frustrating. My eventual method was to lay down a strip of Tamiya curvy tape against each fin, and then bridge between them with the standard yellow stuff. I think it came out decent, eventually. I'm more concerned about how well or poorly the Rusto Key Lime matches the vinyl. We'll see!

You can see I'm painting 1/8" or so of the the rear end of the nose section (just in front of the strakes). Most of that will be covered up by decal, but that ensures that I won't need to perfectly position the decal against the edge of the centering ring to get continuous color. It'll be the one location where the green decal comes in direct contact with the green paint, which is an iffy situation at best, but it'll be what it'll be.

I deferred the masking the main body section for the moment, to give it a bit more time to cure (as of tomorrow it will have been a full week). Should be fine, but can't hurt to be too careful here. I am aiming to shoot the green this weekend, weather permitting.
 
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OK, this was *really* a pain. I mean, I knew it would be going in, but yeesh. I am glad I abandoned my previous paint scheme, where all the fins were to be outlined. For now I just had to do the helical pieces, and that was more than enough.

Remember I'm basically masking everything but the edges of three helixes. Here's the finished product:
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The outside parts weren't too bad. I used the tape for curves to trace along the edge, and then filled in with the standard yellow tape. It's not clear that I needed to use the curvy tape at all; the curves are gentle enough that I probably could have done it with the narrow yellow tape just fine.
attachment.php


For some reason I chose to bevel the corners a bit. I'm not sure if it was a good or bad idea. We'll see.
attachment.php


Wow, that looks pretty crappo when zoomed in that close. I will make sure not to let anyone get that close to it when it's done.

The "insides" of the helixes were a whole other kettle of fish. In addition to needing to work around the connected fins (challenging!), what made it *frustrating* was simply the limited access in there to my hands, scissors, tweezers... anything. Eventually I battled through it and got it done. It didn't even take that much time, but many of the pieces were just so hard to get to lay correctly. Here's one of them:
attachment.php


Even getting the camera in a position to take this shot was difficult. The end result is far from perfect but should be good enough.

I've had problems with paint sneaking through gaps in the blue tape in the past, so this time I made sure there were multiple layers of it, so even if some edges lift (and they absolutely will), there should still be more tape under there to protect it.

Finally, I know that the various tape seams and joints will allow seepage. This time for the first time I'll try applying a sealing layer of clear coat (technique recommended by Micromeister) before the Key Lime paint. We'll see how it goes.

Weather permitting, I'll try to lay down the paint on July 4.
 

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Reading updates in reverse order and was slightly confused when I got to the hitchhikers quotes until you called it out at the beginning.(never read it)

I saw a "Now This" story about a paint coating that absords 99% of incoming light resulting in the "darkest coating ever achieved." I'll try and find the link somewhere.

Looking forward to the green result. Applause to your patience and perseverance. Sanding cycles are monotonous, but masking can drive you crazy!
 
Reading updates in reverse order and was slightly confused when I got to the hitchhikers quotes until you called it out at the beginning.(never read it)

Good god man, why are you still standing there? Get to reading please.

By the way, the quoted stream was from the second book in the series, The Restaurant at the End of the Universe.

Membership in the club demands that you read at least the first three books of the trilogy. The fourth and fifth books of the trilogy are recommended but optional. It pains me to admit that I was not even aware (until just now) of a sixth book, but since it was not written by Adams I'm not too sure about it.

First three books: go now please.
 
Membership in the club demands that you read at least the first three books of the trilogy. The fourth and fifth books of the trilogy are recommended but optional. It pains me to admit that I was not even aware (until just now) of a sixth book, but since it was not written by Adams I'm not too sure about it.

6th Book: I have read it and it was quite entertaining. Not quite to the same level as Mr Adams could write to unfortunately. Worth a go, but if you are a purist then stay away.
 
Finally, I know that the various tape seams and joints will allow seepage. This time for the first time I'll try applying a sealing layer of clear coat (technique recommended by Micromeister) before the Key Lime paint. We'll see how it goes.

Weather permitting, I'll try to lay down the paint on July 4.


I used this trick today with rustoleum clear - it worked.. well.. sort of...

I removed the masking tape after about an hour and what I discovered is that the clear that filled the tape mask gaps was still VERY VERY gooey..

At first I thought it was gum from the tape, which I was not able to understand, but figured it out on closer inspection.

My suggestions: leave it longer then I did before you remove the mask...
 
In my experience one hour is way too soon to unmask, because the paint is still quite gummy, and the tape won't pull away cleanly. Nowadays I just let it cure at least a few days before unmasking, although occasionally I can get in and do it after a day or so and it works out OK.

This job will sit at least a few days before I get a chance to start de-mummifying it.
 
Neil, I have something you might consider replacing that Painters Blue tape with. Frog Tape and this SureTape are much like Tamiya in that, it's really thin and has a very tight edge on it. I still use the Blue stuff but for general masking. This is excellent tape and I have yet to see it bleed. Although I don't remember it being as pricey as on the web site. Your local WallyWorld should have it in stock.
 
I haven't seen the SureTape but Frog Tape is easily available. Frankly I've just been trying to use up this roll of the blue tape (it's this variety I think), so I use it for non-critical applications, and the Tamiya for the actual mask edges. Maybe I'll give a try to the Frog Tape, people seem to say good things about it. Which color do you use, the green or the yellow?
 
I haven't seen the SureTape but Frog Tape is easily available. Frankly I've just been trying to use up this roll of the blue tape (it's this variety I think), so I use it for non-critical applications, and the Tamiya for the actual mask edges. Maybe I'll give a try to the Frog Tape, people seem to say good things about it. Which color do you use, the green or the yellow?
Both of mine are the yellow/gold kind. The blue Scotch tape is generally a house paint variety of tape and prolly not the best for model masking. I also stray away from those "edge sealing" types as well. Seems to me, those might not have the sharpest edges you expect. That is me speculating though.
 
I haven't seen the SureTape but Frog Tape is easily available. Frankly I've just been trying to use up this roll of the blue tape (it's this variety I think), so I use it for non-critical applications, and the Tamiya for the actual mask edges. Maybe I'll give a try to the Frog Tape, people seem to say good things about it. Which color do you use, the green or the yellow?


The green frog tape is a lot better than standard blue tape, but, like you, I try and use Tamiya or Faskolor for the actual edges, then use the green for larger areas, and brown paper (I've gotten quite a good supply from rocket packing material :D) for bulk areas. I'll take a look for suretape, but am hesitant to buy a roll of something I don't know when I've found a set of products that works well for me.


Its hard to read a book and work on rockets at the same time. Maybe I'll look into an audiobook when I finish this round of Arrow/Flash/Legends/Supergirl. (When I started Arrow, I did NOT realize I'd need to start watching 4 shows at the same time to avoid being regularly confused....)
 
Been enjoying your build thread enormously. Learned a lot about building and painting techniques as well. I'm looking forward to the final completion and unveil of your model.
BTW, I couldn't figure out how your fin alignment jig works?
 
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