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Ok I got the fins glued tonight. No pics right now but tomorrow I will. I used thick CA as I didn't have medium but it worked well. I did make a little mess on 2 of the fins but it cleaned up with some fine sand paper. I got everything dry fitted great but ran out of epoxy working on a Estes Big Daddy kit. Off to the store tomorrow for more so I can glue motor mount in.
 
The Aerotech F motors, both single and reload will impress and still keep it in a smaller field.
 
Yes, you need a removable safety interlock (i.e. "safety key"). If it is a key switch, the key must ONLY be removable when the switch is OFF. if you can remove the key when it is ON it is not safe. A simple removable item also works to break the circuit, just kike Estes uses. It can be a simple Phone plug or something similar.
https://www.parts-express.com/Data/Default/Images/Catalog/Original/090-300_HR_0.jpg



KnifeEdge01 said:
So i picked up the Nike Smoke kit yesterday! Hoping to start the Build tonight. I also ordered some aerotech F44w-4 with 24mm Adapters for the first flight, as well as some F20-4W for second flight to go a bit higher.

I stopped at Radio shack and picked up a Project box for a launch controller. I have a Safety Toggle switch and push Button at home. Going to use 16 or 18 GA wire on the inside wiring and 16 or 18Ga speaker wire to the Motor. To power it will be a 3S Lipo 1100Mah mounted on the inside. I do need to find some sort of removable switch or key from what I understand?
Click to expand...
 
Here are a few pics of my progress. Got the motor mount all glued in with Epoxy. Dry fitted all 4 fins to make sure everything lined up properly. I also started to glue the fins in. The Directions say to use CA glue to tack in the fins. Instead I used epoxy to put these in. I will do Fin Fillets once all fins are glued in.

Nike Smoke 1.jpgNike Smoke 3.jpgNike Smoke 2.jpg
 
Looks good.:cool:
For future reference, you can leave the rear centering ring unglued until after the fins are installed, that way you can remove the rear cr and do internal fillets then glue it in place.
 
I did that this build. The motor mount was just a -scootch- off axis, and it made getting the aftmost ring in place a bugger.

Even if it was a smooth fit, I'd throw a screw in a couple of spot to make it easier to manipulate into place.
 
I have been doing screws/ screw eyes into the aft ring for a while...one can always say the holes are to vent the fin can :). but seriously I just don't trust tape given how snug I like the ring/ body tube joint to be before gluing.
Rex
 
I will remember that next time around. I have got a bit done this weekend. All fins are glued and have epoxy fillets. I got the main tube primed and painted gloss white. Going to paint fins over the next few days. What do you recommend for shock cord installation? I am using the supplied shock cord from estes. They give me the cardboard templet to glue and fold... is this strong enough? I didn't go with kevlar or anything like that. I thought about glueing i in and putting a bit of fiberglass over it... Let me know.

Got a few launch's in today at our soccer fields of my recent Big Daddy rocket. Flew it twice on D12 and once on an E9. Great little rocket to fly. Launched a few other low power rockets with my kids too. I will post pics of the Nike Smoke later..

thanks
 
I got mine in the air this weekend. Note to self - more thrust!

[video]https://youtu.be/vG1SkpNtLEI[/video]

It was a bit of a trek to recover - but it's back in hand. Got a little wrinkle in the top of the tube from what I'm assuming was an ejection at high speed.
That was a CTI G33 and a light wind.

I went back and weighed it this morning - 460 grams dry. Way less than the OR file I have. Low rod speed - about 20mph. And it shows it.
 
Charles_McG said:
I got mine in the air this weekend. Note to self - more thrust!

[video]https://youtu.be/vG1SkpNtLEI[/video]

It was a bit of a trek to recover - but it's back in hand. Got a little wrinkle in the top of the tube from what I'm assuming was an ejection at high speed.
That was a CTI G33 and a light wind.

I went back and weighed it this morning - 460 grams dry. Way less than the OR file I have. Low rod speed - about 20mph. And it shows it.
Click to expand...

I hope mine goes straight up. If it goes out on an angle I could end up in a road or someones backyard. I may need to wait until the corn and bean fields are harvested for a different launch site.
 
Here are a few updated pics. Tube and nose cone painted white. going to start on Fins tonight.

20160919_075301.jpg

VZM.IMG_20160917_212751.jpg
 
KnifeEdge01 said:
I will remember that next time around. I have got a bit done this weekend. All fins are glued and have epoxy fillets. I got the main tube primed and painted gloss white. Going to paint fins over the next few days. What do you recommend for shock cord installation? I am using the supplied shock cord from estes. They give me the cardboard templet to glue and fold... is this strong enough? I didn't go with kevlar or anything like that. I thought about glueing i in and putting a bit of fiberglass over it... Let me know.

Got a few launch's in today at our soccer fields of my recent Big Daddy rocket. Flew it twice on D12 and once on an E9. Great little rocket to fly. Launched a few other low power rockets with my kids too. I will post pics of the Nike Smoke later..

thanks
Click to expand...

I went with the stock Estes teabag on mine 'cause it just works. Posted about it last year: https://www.rocketryforum.com/showt...-shock-cord-and-anchor-method&highlight=smoke

Sounds like you had a good time. Soccer field launches with the kids are the coolest ! :cool:
 
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Which one? Testors makes 4 different types for use here in the U.S. the 3527C, 3502MC, 3516 XT or the 3502XT. Different formulas for different plastic types and applications. They also produce an CyA, the 3518C which is good also. MAke sure that you use a cement that "melts" the type of fins included in your kit. I hesitate to say what Estes is using since they are produced in China but I bet it is some type of polystyrene, maybe even ABC. Let us know what you use, I am interested in your results. Keep em flying!
Joser
 
Pepe Le Pew said:
Which one? Testors makes 4 different types for use here in the U.S. the 3527C, 3502MC, 3516 XT or the 3502XT. Different formulas for different plastic types and applications. They also produce an CyA, the 3518C which is good also. MAke sure that you use a cement that "melts" the type of fins included in your kit. I hesitate to say what Estes is using since they are produced in China but I bet it is some type of polystyrene, maybe even ABC. Let us know what you use, I am interested in your results. Keep em flying!
Joser
Click to expand...

I was going to try the cement in the red tube. the standard one. I ended up using think CA glue which worked great!
 
So I love the look of this Rocket so much I went out and bought the smaller one to build too. :) The Original design calls for B and C Engines, I am going to put a 24mm mount in it to use D and E engines with the possibility of using an Aerotech motor as well.
 
Don't forget the reloads, you can get a lot of different propellants that way, plus buytrocketmotors.com has some g motors that are non hazmat shippable. I like the cesaroni motors, though buyrocketmotors doesn't sell them, but they are very easy to put together and light easier than the aerotechs IMHO. I also built my launch controller. I set it up to use regular extension chords between the controller and the pad, now I can be as close or far away as I want. I can set it up for 1/8 A to O. Easy to do, if you want we can walk you through it.
 
Got some progress in this weekend. All the fins are painted. I started the shock cord last night. I epoxied it in for now. I will go over it with a bit of fiberglass later.

I also received my Motors from tower hobbies But instead of the pack of F20 motors, they accidentally sent me an F50-4. So i am waiting for the replacements this week.




Nike Smoke 6.jpgNike Smoke 7.jpg
 
Charles_McG said:
Stick with the F50.
Click to expand...
I received the F20-4 from Tower Hobbies and I got to keep the F50 as well. I am going to start with the F44(I have the 29mm to 24mm adapter) then step up to the F20. I need to see altitude as I have a smaller field I fly these at. I have to be cautious of a nearby road.
 
The 20 may give you a very low speed off the pad; if you do use them, try to do so on a calm day.
 
a quick simulation suggests that an F20-4 would net 550' @ rod departure speed of 30 fps, an F50-6 roughly 900' and 44 fps(this assumes a stock weight and an effective rod length of 39"( overall length of 60")).
Rex
 
Rex R said:
a quick simulation suggests that an F20-4 would net 550' @ rod departure speed of 30 fps, an F50-6 roughly 900' and 44 fps(this assumes a stock weight and an effective rod length of 39"( overall length of 60")).
Rex
Click to expand...

Can I ask What simulator you are using? I looked on Thrustcurve.org, and I show a F44 putting it at about 500ft, where as a F20 will put it up to about 970ft. The F50 Yields over 1000ft on their calculations. Just truing to make sure I use the correct motor.
thanks
 
I updated my OpenRocket file - created from a Rocksim file found online - where, I don't recall - for my dry weight of 460g (and the found CG).

Using the default rod length (39") I get:
F20-4 - 25mph off rod, 680'
F44W-4 - 33mph, 555'
F50T-6 - 35mph, 915'
F26FJ-6 - 24mph, 823' (closest I could find to the Estes F26 listed on the face card of the kit)
CTI 143-G33-6 - 21mph, 1759' (What I flew in the video posted above - that landed ~1500' to the south of the launch pad.)

I'm thinking that F44 doesn't look so bad.

If you're concerned with drift, there's plenty of room for a JL Chute Release. Or a homebuilt chute tender based on another altimeter.
 
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