Add another Micro 1:41.5 Scale to the Fleet (ASP - Sonda II-B)

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Micromeister

Micro Craftman/ClusterNut
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Not a build thread as this little model just sort of flew together.

I purchased a bunch of Micro Scale models from Andy at Aerospace Specialty Products (ASP) back in early 2001. Like many micro kits they got hung on a cup clip over my work bench and sort of forgotten about.

I recently looked Up and said Hey let's take a look at these.

The Sonda II-b is a Brazilian Sounding Rocket flown in the 1970's. This model is tiny! Andy's specs say the model is .282" in dia. but my calipers say its the standard .281" T2 body. OA length: 5.38" with a fin span of .96875". The kit provides light styrene for fin material and a styrene tube and standoff launch lug. I elected to scrap the styrene tube and stand-off for two Fliskit launch lugs 1/16" forward and 1/8 burried in one of the Fin/body joints. Replaced the kit mylar streamer and far to short kevlar shockline for a 30"- 70lb kevlar Shockline with a 3/8" x 8" orange Teflon tape Streamer/Wadding. 3 coats of cheapy primer, two coats of Gloss white and Flourescent Red/Orange fins and forward band completed the model. I used the kit waterslide decal but really should have redrawn and printed my own. The old kit decal (with a fresh coat of krylon Workable Fixatif) still flaked along the edges during application. I started to sand it off but said this is such a small model why bother.
Completed the Painted & decals model with Pledge w/ Future overcoat is a hefty 2.8g that will give a LOWt; of 3.9g using a MMX-II motor.
OH Man! Will this one get some altitude:)

Just a couple photos...again not a build thread.

MM 420-uc01a_Sonda-II-b_Instructions pg-1_06-12-16.jpg

MM 420-uc02_remaining parts after built_06-12-16.JPG

MM 420-uc04_Sonda II-b in BaseWhite_06-17-16.jpg

MM 420-uc06_Sonda II-b_Flour. Red-Orange painted_06-18-16.JPG

MM 420_MM Sonda II-B (41.5 Scale)_06-20-16.jpg
 
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Looks nice and I bet it looks even better in the flesh. To those who haven't seen them, John's models are largely indistinguishable from plastic ones. I have often had to ask: "cardboard or plastic?" (And the often are plastic too :))

I was amazed that I could lose a MMX rocket of that size. I lost one at Middletown with a while club-load of eyes watching it. :facepalm:
 
Very nice work. I'm not familiar with that rocket. I may have to study it now lol.

The old kit decal (with a fresh coat of krylon Workable Fixatif) still flaked along the edges during application.

Krylon Workable Fixatif? Something else I'm not familiar with. Where did you get it? And will it work on inkjet printed decals?
 
Nice build. I always liked this rocket. In fact have all parts and plans to do a 6" dia. blue tube build (sometime).
 
Krylon Workable Fixatif? Something else I'm not familiar with. Where did you get it? And will it work on inkjet printed decals?

Thanks Dixontj & Kruegon:
It is a nice little Micro Model, I understand Andy @ ASP has this particular rocket in several different scales or at least he did. I haven't been on his site of a long while now.

Krylon Workable Fixatif is a Clear over coat product used heavily in the Art, Sign & Photographic industries. We use it a lot in the Sign industry for presentation drawings, model moc-ups and multi-medium works on Paper, Tracing vellum, Sign Cloth, Sho-Card, Presentation boards, and Foamcore to name just a few with with art work done with any medium: Charcoal drawings, Pastels, Water colors, Bulletin paints, Printed Art & Decal Vinyls and absolutely INKJET and Laser JET Printed material on Water slide papers, Vinyls and plastics.

Krylon Workable Fixatif #1306 is available at just about any Office supply, Art Supply, Micheal's, A.C. Moore, Wal-Mart and On-Line for about 6 bucks a can. Same 12oz. size as most Krylon clears.

I use it extensively on Old, Ancient or Antique Decals from 60 and 70's Mod-Roc and Plastic model kits and anyone's Waterslide Decals from kits these days.

1306 Workable Fixatif can be painted over with any medium; color pencils,Magic Marker, Charcoal or what have you, which is why it's called "Workable".

1306 Workable Fixsatif is always my first overcoat on all my Inkjet and Alps printed decals. The 1st coat is followed with a second coat of Krylon #1305 Gloss or 1309 Matte UV resistant Clear before the sheet is cut. into individual decals.

As 1306 Workable fixatif like so many other Clear Rattle Can materials contain very little to no UV inhibitor additives I do not suggest it as a final Clear coat. While it stays far more flexable when dry then the vast majority of Rattle Can Clears it really needs some form of permanent top coat to be stable for the long term (90years + in the art world.)

Krylon UV Clears(1305Gloss,1309Matte,1306Fixatif)_02-05-16.JPG
 
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Thanks for the info on that. I've been searching for a viable fixative to start printing my own decals for clones. I've already started cleaning up and inputting some of the old decals. Especially the late 70's and 80's decals that appeared to be drawn with crayons lol.

My scale world is about to change considerably. Now I just need to find some viably priced water slide paper.
 
Thanks for the info on that. I've been searching for a viable fixative to start printing my own decals for clones. I've already started cleaning up and inputting some of the old decals. Especially the late 70's and 80's decals that appeared to be drawn with crayons lol.

My scale world is about to change considerably. Now I just need to find some viably priced water slide paper.

I've used a lot of different inkjet papers over the last 40some years, form all kinds of sources on-line and through hobby stores.

I have to say. BE VERY careful. Cheaping out of the base paper is not a good idea.
I've had entire orders ruined from the Cheapy suppliers On-Line in shippment because of improper packaging decalpapers.com or something like that is by far the worst. Now I ONLY buy from Micro-Mark on-line. Since switching to them I've have about 11 orders over the last 6-7 years and every single sheet has arrived in perfect condition. Not a single dog-ear, ripped corner or poorly screened base coat (clear or white). They are pennies more expensive then other sources but the lack of damaged goods and hastle getting others to make good on the poor packaging and replacement time is worth the extra few cents.
Do yourself a favor: If your just starting out making your own decals buy a sample pack from Micro-Mark. You will not be sorry.
 
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