Summer Build off Contest: "MAGIC DART"

LW Bercini said:

Now there's a surprise:eyeroll:

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I will take this opportunity to note that there is one builder conspicuously absent from the contest. Just sayin'. :bangpan:


Getting back to the Magic Dart, this seems to have an Acme Spitfire-like quality to it, in terms of being an amazing blank canvas. I could easily imagine a drag race of a bunch of these all painted completely differently.

Just dreamin'...

neil_w said:

I will take this opportunity to note that there is one builder conspicuously absent from the contest. Just sayin'. :bangpan:

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Thank you for thinking of me. But given all that is going on at home this summer, I knew in advance I would not have the ability to participate

Too bad, maybe next year.

Gary Byrum said:

Those fins still look oversized.

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View attachment 293516

"Does this motor tube make my fins look fat?"
:lol:

BTW - I hear spiral patterns are quite slimming!

KenECoyote said:

View attachment 293516

"Does this motor tube make my fins look fat?"
:lol:

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OH LAWD! Has some chic ever asked you that totally unfair question before?

"No honey, but your big butt makes those pants look wide." :rofl:

neil_w said:

If you like I could make an OR file for you, given dimensions and details and such.

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No, not just for my sake. I saw the blanks for turning but missed what parts they are going to be. Is the CA in the tube just to strengthen them?

First of all, the nose cone templates are for a BT 5 and a BT 60. You may find it difficult to replace the BNC 5 nose, but the 5 W would make a suitable replacement. And the other one is all but the same as a 60 MS cropped. Those may only be available in plastic, but you might be able to reconfig the whole forward section if that's all there is available. My turning of it will show a shaft on top of the 60 nose section where the BT 5 fits on to it. Using plastic nose cone for this would be a lot more involved.

The CA in the BT 50 was put there because I feared it might buckle. There's a lot more weight in that 60 section than there is the BT 50 alone. It was a security measure for sure.

Gary Byrum said:

The CA in the BT 50 was put there because I feared it might buckle. There's a lot more weight in that 60 section than there is the BT 50 alone. It was a security measure for sure.

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Did you think of using thick-walled BT50? I've been getting nervous lately about using standard BT50 in any situation where it is structural, thinking about switching to thick-walled.

The CA will also add a lot of strength, obviously, but I'm not quite sure how to get an even coating over the interior of a long skinny tube.

Gary Byrum said:

OH LAWD! Has some chic ever asked you that totally unfair question before?

"No honey, but your big butt makes those pants look wide." :rofl:

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:lol:

I love it! Now it feels like we're in a pub! Bring out the big Dart! :grin:

neil_w said:

Did you think of using thick-walled BT50? I've been getting nervous lately about using standard BT50 in any situation where it is structural, thinking about switching to thick-walled.

The CA will also add a lot of strength, obviously, but I'm not quite sure how to get an even coating over the interior of a long skinny tube.

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I don't stock thick walled tubes so I didn't have any, and refer to post # 21 for the details (pic included) of how I mopped the interior. Don't you guys read my stuff? Or are you flabbergasted with the pictures?

KenECoyote said:

:lol:

I love it! Now it feels like we're in a pub! Bring out the big Dart! :grin:

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(BELCH) " Hey barkeep, how bout fillin up this here pitcher again!" (or more appropriately) "I'll have mine in a bottle please. I ain't been weaned yet!"

Gary Byrum said:

I don't stock thick walled tubes so I didn't have any, and refer to post # 21 for the details (pic included) of how I mopped the interior. Don't you guys read my stuff? Or are you flabbergasted with the pictures?

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Ah, my bad, I did a quick scan over the thread before I posted because I couldn't remember if it was there and I just overlooked it completely.

But the pictures are certainly flabbergastery.

Gary Byrum said:

I don't stock thick walled tubes so I didn't have any, and refer to post # 21 for the details (pic included) of how I mopped the interior. Don't you guys read my stuff? Or are you flabbergasted with the pictures?

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Actually, I thought I had replied that it was a really cool idea with the sponge on a stick, but I guess I didn't. I might use that next time...maybe even try it with Wood Hardener (first I'll make sure it doesn't melt the sponge). So GREAT IDEA! :clap:

Gary Byrum said:

(BELCH) " Hey barkeep, how bout fillin up this here pitcher again!" (or more appropriately) "I'll have mine in a bottle please. I ain't been weaned yet!"

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I can picture it now...a bunch of guys holding beers in one hand and holding up the giant dart with the other! :lol:

What are your plans for launch lugs or rail guides?

sed6 said:

What are your plans for launch lugs or rail guides?

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Typically what I do on builds like this, is surface mount a lug on the forward part of the airframe, and a lower one on one of the fins.

For an upscale, could cluster the motors and run the launch lug up the middle through the tip.

BABAR said:

For an upscale, could cluster the motors and run the launch lug up the middle through the tip.

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I could see that working.....sorta, but I'm presently having issues with my new TIKK TAKK design where the two lugs are spot on straight, but most of both of them are hidden inside. It's a real PIA to get this bugger on the launch rod. Getting the cluster idea you said, would be an easy start loading it on the rod, but what can you do about getting it inside the upper lug? You can't see it. Besides, that's where the chute and some of the shock cord go. I'd also be loosing that precious point on the tip of the nose cone....eh?

Gary Byrum said:

I could see that working.....sorta, but I'm presently having issues with my new TIKK TAKK design where the two lugs are spot on straight, but most of both of them are hidden inside. It's a real PIA to get this bugger on the launch rod. Getting the cluster idea you said, would be an easy start loading it on the rod, but what can you do about getting it inside the upper lug? You can't see it. Besides, that's where the chute and some of the shock cord go. I'd also be loosing that precious point on the tip of the nose cone....eh?

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For my summer buildoff entry the lug goes end-to-end. Chute has a hole in the middle too, rear eject the chute.

Gary Byrum said:

I could see that working.....sorta, but I'm presently having issues with my new TIKK TAKK design where the two lugs are spot on straight, but most of both of them are hidden inside. It's a real PIA to get this bugger on the launch rod. Getting the cluster idea you said, would be an easy start loading it on the rod, but what can you do about getting it inside the upper lug? You can't see it. Besides, that's where the chute and some of the shock cord go. I'd also be loosing that precious point on the tip of the nose cone....eh?

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Just an idea, maybe crazy. Use a micromax series of tubes length of rocket. Given your long nose, likely will also be length of the LAUNCH ROD. So you could still have the pointy tip at the end of the micromaxx tube, will be above tip of launch rod. Plenty of room around between your outer tube and inner launch lug tube for chutes and cord.

BABAR said:

Just an idea, maybe crazy. Use a micromax series of tubes length of rocket. Given your long nose, likely will also be length of the LAUNCH ROD. So you could still have the pointy tip at the end of the micromaxx tube, will be above tip of launch rod. Plenty of room around between your outer tube and inner launch lug tube for chutes and cord.

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There are only a very small few of my own creations that I ever up/down scaled and those were based on prototypes. My Fiddle Faddles, on the other hand, are a sort of signature model for me that I made a lot of different sizes and concepts to. I really don't have any desire to do any upscaling on Magic Dart. But if someone else wants to do one, I'll gladly make the plans available.

Tonight I got the balsa blanks turned. With a little custom sanding, I got the fitting I needed. After this, I'll be coating the inside of the BT 5 with CA because it's very likely it'll be landing on it's nose/point often. A little insurance is always a good thing.

Beautiful!

Very nice!

Looking sharp! :wink:

I'm guessing the fin dimensions are approximately: 8" root, 3" tip, 3" span, 3" sweep, and 1/8" thick. Am I close?

Looking forward to seeing it fly!

Cabernut said:

I'm guessing the fin dimensions are approximately: 8" root, 3" tip, 3" span, 3" sweep, and 1/8" thick. Am I close?

Looking forward to seeing it fly!

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Good eye Chris. Close enough. When I traced the design and scaled the fin size down to look proportional, I really didn't round off any numbers. Instead I just printed off a template and cut the 1/8" balsa. (correct again). The curves are different as you can see in the attachment. That good eye of yours should be able to guesstimate the sweep.

Nice balsa work! The scale is perfect too.

There was a dart rocket at one of the TRF meets in the early 2000's and I always thought it was one of the cooler rockets I have seen. Can't wait to see the finished result here!

Thanks guys...(pats self on the back)

The baffle coupler is now installed ½ way in. The small end of the shroud was mounted 2-1/8” from the tube end where the baffle is. The first pic shows the CR glued inside the coupler, flush with the end. This is the bottom side that will get glued to the wide end of the shroud. A little custom sanding was required, but I think it looks fine. The other CR (or anchor) will be surface mounted on the other side of the coupler. Sanding may be required for a good fit inside the BT 60, but we haven’t gone that far yet.



The teabag was installed inside the coupler and left to dry.



The shock cord and the rip cord were threaded through the slots I cut in the CR and glue applied to the rip cord anchor. The silver key ring will be tied to the rip cord to hook the chute on to. Bummer! All I have right now are kinda big, so I’ll pick up some little ones tomorrow. This one would work, but I don’t want to use it.



Once dried, (or so so) I dry fitted the parts together and surface mounted the CR anchor. I’ll need to remove the parts once it’s dry, so I can reinforce the CR's inside with lotsa lovely Titebond.

It dawned on me tonight, that I was finally in a position to do a dry fit. No lugs yet and there's still quite a lot to do.

Too cool!