Wildman Punisher "LDRS Special" Novice Build

This is going to be my first FG build. I'm excited and nervous. Package arrived from Wildman yesterday. I've got almost everything I need; here's the "check my parts" shot:


The cork on the NC is in part for scale, and in part because that thing is SHARP. Like "could really injure you" sharp. I'm considering sanding/grinding it down just a little bit because I have small curious children and I don't want any accidents.

Open questions: Trying to figure out: I think the screw eye will fit in the NC; going to be an interesting job getting it in there. I'm thinking maybe finding a deep socket that I can wedge it into, then using a socket extension to carefully screw it in. Also trying to decide the best way to attach the rail buttons. Since they're plastic, I want a removable screw. Wildman's suggestion seems to be to self-tap through the fiberglass, but I'm concerned that that will strip over time. Thinking about epoxying a small nut inside the BT and using that.

Or just getting the Apogee railbuttons with the t-nuts included.

Test fit went fine. Fins are loose, centering rings don't fit at all [edit: Centering rings have tabs on them, they look like they'll fit fine once those are sanded off. Edit 2: Spoke with Tim @ Wildman. This is my first FG build so I wasn't sure what to expect. The fins are loose in that they don't need sanding to fit, but they aren't sloppy. Tim offered to recut me a body tube with a tight fit. Great customer service, but what I have will work fine. Build will proceed. ], tube ends need smoothing. Up next: Bathtime!

Need to get: mask for sanding, foam board for fin jig.

[UPDATE: Skip to page 3 for the meat of the build if you're interested in that and not all of my questions and the back-and-forth]

ActingLikeAKid said:

Trying to figure out: I think the screw eye will fit in the NC; going to be an interesting job getting it in there. I'm thinking maybe finding a deep socket that I can wedge it into, then using a socket extension to carefully screw it in.

Click to expand...

PVC tool...

rfjustin said:

PVC tool...

View attachment 292004 View attachment 292005 View attachment 292006

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BRILLIANT!!!:clap:

What are folks' thoughts on sanding the leading edges? I'm thinking it would be nice to at least take the corners off....

Also: I'm using this thread:
https://www.rocketryforum.com/showthread.php?68818-WildMan-Sport-build-instructions-thread
and this PDF
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3VyEjCG-d_KU2d3YzNvbWlkbEk/view
as my guides...

Normally there's a bulkplate that you epoxy just inside the nose cone coupler piece. Don't see it in your picture though...

I got a PML 54mm Intellicone for mine, since it's getting an Eggtimer TRS in the NC for apogee deploy and tracking. Given that the drag race is going to be on G's the tracker may not be necessary, but it may help pick mine out of what will probably be a fair number of nearly identical rockets.

cerving said:

Normally there's a bulkplate that you epoxy just inside the nose cone coupler piece. Don't see it in your picture though...

I got a PML 54mm Intellicone for mine, since it's getting an Eggtimer TRS in the NC for apogee deploy and tracking. Given that the drag race is going to be on G's the tracker may not be necessary, but it may help pick mine out of what will probably be a fair number of nearly identical rockets.

Click to expand...

I think I can just screw the eyebolt into the metal tip of the NC, no bulkplate needed. It's a little more to pressurize from the ejection charge, but it shouldn't be a big deal. That said, I'm thinking about getting an eggtimer for mine, too. Right now I have two ideas rattling around in my head:
1: Build a mounting plate and epoxy that to the inside of the NC. Build a case for the Eggtimer and attach that to the mounting plate.
2: Bite the bullet and buy one of these: https://www.ape-rc.com/#!/Head-End-...Molded-Nose-Cone/p/46531659/category=11909535

I'm leaning pretty hard toward #2 - at $35, it's a little pricey, but I would easily spend $15 on materials trying to fabricate a case and mount. I think this is one of those "Someone else has done it. Don't reinvent the wheel" situations.

Option 3 : get the upgrade to make it the punisher super sport.

Danh said:

Option 3 : get the upgrade to make it the punisher super sport.

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...Still would need to find a home for the eggtimer, though

I've already got the filament-wound NC, so the only difference between mine and the SS is the mmt size (right?) ... and 29mm ought to get me in plenty of trouble....

That's where the eggtimer would live.

I'm not saying to get 38mm just get the coupler ,vent band and bulk plates . your nc coupler may work and then all you would need is ventband and bulk plates

Danh said:

That's where the eggtimer would live.

I'm not saying to get 38mm just get the coupler ,vent band and bulk plates . your nc coupler may work and then all you would need is ventband and bulk plates

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Hmm, ok, that's an interesting proposition. So if I'm not doing DD (I have a Chute Release) then would this work?
Vent band gets epoxied to coupler.
3 or 4 holes drilled through vent band and coupler so that the altimeter can "breathe"
Bulkplate epoxied to bottom of coupler.
Coupler slides into NC. Drill 3 or 4 holes, add 6-32 screws to hold it together. Screws are removed and replaced after eggtimer is inserted.
Epoxy thin plywood into coupler, attach eggtimer to plywood and Bob, as they say, is your uncle....?

...yes?

ActingLikeAKid said:

BRILLIANT!!!:clap:

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+2 great Idea

OK, I have two ideas in my head for making this work. I'm leaning toward option 1 -- there's less stress on the small screws (and I could realistically get away with 2 of them, since they're not load-bearing) and it seems stronger overall. But the two ways I thought of doing this are below.

In both options, I glue a ring around the middle of the coupler and a bulkplate to the bottom of it.

Option 1: I put the screw eye in the metal tip of the NC. I drill 2 holes in the bulkplate. I run a piece of Kevlar cord through a hole in the bulkplate, down through the screw eye and back up, and through the other hole in the bulkplate. I tie the two ends together and attach my shock cord to the loop. Before each flight, I activate my altimeter (grey), slide the coupler in and feed the Kevlar through the bulkplate holes, then tie the Kevlar, line up the screw holes, and put in the screws. Advantage: Stronger.

Option 2: I put an eyebolt in the bulkplate. The bulkplate is glued to the coupler, the coupler slides in and 4 small screws hold it in place. Before each flight, I activate my altimeter, slide the coupler in, and put in the screws. Advantage: Easier to prep for flight.

Thoughts?

I think the only problem with option 2 would be the possibility of the kevlar in the NC getting abraded on the edge of the FG. As long as I sanded the holes smooth, though, it should be ok, right?

Please don, t do anything to the kit I want to have it picked up so I can see what people are calling loose and not fitting.
Please call into the office and give Jackie your name and we will get it picked up.

WILDMANRS said:

Please don, t do anything to the kit I want to have it picked up so I can see what people are calling loose and not fitting.
Please call into the office and give Jackie your name and we will get it picked up.

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PM sent. We'll get this sorted. Thanks for the quick response!!

ActingLikeAKid said:

OK, I have two ideas in my head for making this work. I'm leaning toward option 1 -- there's less stress on the small screws (and I could realistically get away with 2 of them, since they're not load-bearing) and it seems stronger overall. But the two ways I thought of doing this are below.

In both options, I glue a ring around the middle of the coupler and a bulkplate to the bottom of it.

Option 1: I put the screw eye in the metal tip of the NC. I drill 2 holes in the bulkplate. I run a piece of Kevlar cord through a hole in the bulkplate, down through the screw eye and back up, and through the other hole in the bulkplate. I tie the two ends together and attach my shock cord to the loop. Before each flight, I activate my altimeter (grey), slide the coupler in and feed the Kevlar through the bulkplate holes, then tie the Kevlar, line up the screw holes, and put in the screws. Advantage: Stronger.

Option 2: I put an eyebolt in the bulkplate. The bulkplate is glued to the coupler, the coupler slides in and 4 small screws hold it in place. Before each flight, I activate my altimeter, slide the coupler in, and put in the screws. Advantage: Easier to prep for flight.

Thoughts?
View attachment 292018

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Look for Chris Attebery's 54mm nosecone sled. Brilliant. I use them constantly.

ActingLikeAKid said:

Option 2: I put an eyebolt in the bulkplate. The bulkplate is glued to the coupler, the coupler slides in and 4 small screws hold it in place. Before each flight, I activate my altimeter, slide the coupler in, and put in the screws. Advantage: Easier to prep for flight.

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This. use 3 #4 screws. They're not coming out. I wouldn't even back them with anything. Same with the rail buttons. Drill and just screw 'em in. You won't be replacing them often. I've got some with over 25 flights on them still going strong.

I have a hard time cutting Kevlar with a brand new xatco. FG should not be an issue as long as you open up at a speed less than 800 MPH.

loose? with my wm sport the slots appear to be to narrow but, I am not sanding them until after I sand the fins(with TTW fins one should wait to adjust the slots until after you're done sanding the fins). likewise the centering rings will fit somewhat looser after the motor tube and inside of the body tube are 'scuffed up'. I did get the Kevlar loop epoxied into the nose cone.
Rex

FYI, the parts on my kit fit perfectly, other than sanding the remnants of the tabs from the centering rings. Even the fins fit perfectly into the slots, didn't have to widen them at all. Wildman makes good stuff.

UPDATE: Talked with Tim and the fit is well within spec. I have some ideas for ensuring that the fins are dead straight. In any case, THE BUILD IS BACK ON!!! And I'm excited - if it goes well, it'll be together for the mid-June launch in SC.

Come find me at the launch. I'll have my Punisher SS there[dual deploy] for you to look at. It's maiden flight was last launch.
Be glad to help you out with any questions you have regarding DD flight.

blackjack2564 said:

Come find me at the launch. I'll have my Punisher SS there[dual deploy] for you to look at. It's maiden flight was last launch.
Be glad to help you out with any questions you have regarding DD flight.

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will do, thanks. It's probably an 80% chance. Depends on weather and what I can get done between now & then

No time to waste! Gave the parts a nice bath:

...then let them dry.

Tabs are gone from the CRs and they fit great. Fins and CRs are sanded with 60grit:

...and I made a high-tech tool to cut notches for the shock cord.
I cut a nice groove for it...

...and sanded the area around the fins.


Not shown: Scuffed up the whole outside of the motor mount.

Up next: sanding the inside of the body tube. Though it may be overkill, I'm going to print a fin guide from payload bay to make a second notch 120 degrees from the first so that the kevlar is aligned between the fins; then I can have a reference mark on the body and the mmt so that I know I'm putting it in the right way. Probably overkill, but I'm also going to cut up some plywood to screw the rail buttons into. Then I should be ready to attach the top CR to the MMT and glue down the Kevlar.

If things go well, I may be putting on fins this weekend. I'm also going to try making a fillet with rocketpoxy - probably just gluing some scrap balsa together - to practice.

Also: I've ordered a bulkhead and vent ring from Wildman; I'm going to make an avbay to hold an Eggtimer. Not doing DD ... yet...

One trick when using the Rocketpoxy is after you mix the 2 parts together is let it set for about 10 minutes before using. If I wait the time I never get any air bubbles in the epoxy.

Possibly stupid question: I was going to Y-harness the motor mount. It's 29mm and the more I look at it, the more it looks like it's going to be tough to get a good "epoxy capsule" around the cord and still not interfere with the fins. I think I'm going to err on the side of "one strong side" over "two not-as-strong-sides that might be too close to a fin" and avoid the possibility of interfering with fin alignment. Am I overthinking this? I'm probably overthinking this.

I have used the 1 sided shock cord mount on many builds. It has never been a problem.

crossfire said:

I have used the 1 sided shock cord mount on many builds. It has never been a problem.

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Cool, thanks.

As small as this is, a single side would be fine. I usually go at least 2/3rds of the length of the motor tube. RocketPoxy works great for shock cord anchors. I've never had one pull free. I put on gloves, and once mixed I lay down the first layer on the tube, then I use my fingers to work epoxy into the cord, and then apply the soaked cord to the tube. Once the epoxy starts to cure, it goes through a phase where it's like clay. Put some alcohol on your gloved finger and you can smooth it all down nice and tight.