Struggling with DIY Waterslide Decals

So, I've failed at two attempts to make waterslide decals. I'm using Testors waterslide decal system. On my first attemp, I used too much bonder, so when the decals slid off the paper backing (which was also very difficult to do) the edges curled very badly, making it impossible to successfully apply. After messing with it to the point of it being moot, I aborted the decal. I noticed that it was very thick and rubbery, so clearly I used WAY too much bonder. I also later read that the curling is a sign of too much bonder as well.

On attempt #2, I lightened up on the bonder. The result was the ink dissolving into the water almost immediately after I put it in...so I added a bit if bonder and let it dry for 24 hours. The result was the same as attemp #1; curling, thick, rubbery unusable decals! I'm getting pretty frustrated to say the least.

Does anyone have any advise for bonding/sealing water decals? I suck at it!!!

This is what I do:

Spraying Decals

When spraying the decal spray (Krylon Crystal Clear Acrylic):

• Spray 2 coats (1 session)
• Place between wax paper, but don’t let it touch
• Let dry for 30 minutes before doing session 2
• Let the session 2 spray direction be 90 degrees from session 1 direction
• Decal thickness:
  • Thin: 2 sessions
  • Thick: 3 sessions
  • Stout: 4 sessions
• Wait at least 24 hours or until the odor has ceased (whichever is longer) to apply
• I waited 2 hours and the black dissolved out of the decal

Applying Decals

• Clean the area with isopropyl alcohol (test in a small area first, to confirm the paint surface won't be affected)
• Put a drop (really a lot less than a drop) of dishwashing soap into warm water for the decals
• Put some of the decal water on the area of application
• Cut the decal close to the printed area
• Let the decal sit for about a minute in the water
• Work quickly to position the decal

Almost all of the graphics on this rocket were home-brew decals.



Greg

Awesome description Greg, thanks. I'll give the Krylon a shot. Are you doing really light coats for each session?

I think everybody has thrown away their first tries at home print decals.
It gets better with practice. I draw and use home print decals all the time.
I get my paper from decalpaper.com. Results have been good, but I do notice some differences in paper batches from different orders.

I'm in the middle as far as clear coats go, settling on three coats of Krylon Gloss Clear Acrylic. Use the UV resistant spray if you can find it.
The only Krylon spray I use is for decal sheet sealing.
I spray heavier than a mist coat, enough so I can see light reflected on the wet sheet surface.
First coat I hold the sheet portrait, second coat held landscape, then upside down portrait to insure coverage.

Different printers and decal paper use different soaking times.
Start with 30 second of soaking and check to see if the decal is easily sliding off the backing.
If not, soak some more.

Here's more decal stuff from my blog:

https://modelrocketbuilding.blogspot.com/2013/12/decal-printing-screen-options.html
https://modelrocketbuilding.blogspot.com/2010/08/home-made-decal-tips-part-1.html
https://modelrocketbuilding.blogspot.com/2010/08/home-made-decals-part-2.html
https://modelrocketbuilding.blogspot.com/2010/08/home-made-decals-part-3.html

This is how I do it, everybody has their own methods.

Agree - Much better results with the Krylon as well. I used testors decal paper and Papillo and much preferred the outcome with the latter. I tried the testors spray and agree with everyone's suggestions.

Purkeypilot said:

Awesome description Greg, thanks. I'll give the Krylon a shot. Are you doing really light coats for each session?

Click to expand...

Look at what hcmbanjo says about coating and that will be a good guide for you.

Also, the decal paper is important as well. And like hcmbanjo, I got mine from decalpaper.com (in 2007) and it's still working for me.

Greg

You guys are all great! I'm going to give it a shot today as long as I can find some Krylon. I'll let you all know how it goes. Thanks again!

Purkeypilot said:

So, I've failed at two attempts to make waterslide decals. I'm using Testors waterslide decal system. On my first attemp, I used too much bonder, so when the decals slid off the paper backing (which was also very difficult to do) the edges curled very badly, making it impossible to successfully apply. After messing with it to the point of it being moot, I aborted the decal. I noticed that it was very thick and rubbery, so clearly I used WAY too much bonder. I also later read that the curling is a sign of too much bonder as well.

On attempt #2, I lightened up on the bonder. The result was the ink dissolving into the water almost immediately after I put it in...so I added a bit if bonder and let it dry for 24 hours. The result was the same as attemp #1; curling, thick, rubbery unusable decals! I'm getting pretty frustrated to say the least.

Does anyone have any advise for bonding/sealing water decals? I suck at it!!!

Click to expand...

Long and short of it. regardless of the Inkjet paper used though I have not heard any GOOD results from the testors system. I only use krylon 1306 workable Fixatif as the first sealing first coat, followed within an hour with a coat of either Krylon 1305 UV resistant Gloss clear or Krylon 1309 UV resistant Matte clear.
If your interested you might want to visit www.narhams.com if you look for the library tab on the left hand pull down menu you can download TechTip-016 Making Decals. I've convered a bunch of different issues, materials and methods for producing decals.
One thing I will pass on here: I've tried a bunch of different on-line Decal paper sources. that said the ONLY paper I'll buy now is from www. micro-marks.com. There material weather Inkjet or laser copier(Alps) papers always come in well protected without a single dogear on any sheet. They are a bit more expensive the some other but the pennies difference is more than made up for with the quality and protection they use with every shippment.

No mention of MicroSol or MicroFilm?

My decal applications are 50/50. I got a few sets form Excelsior, and this is what he's recommended; the micro sol & micro film. But I still get the few curled edges or cracked decals as I apply them..

Get some laser printer paper then go out and find a 24 hour Fedex, UPS store. Stroll in about midnight when things are dead. Cajol the printer guy to feed the paper into a color printer using your color master. Or create a color PDF and have it imported to the printer. Also works at Office max about 1/2 hour before closing.

dr wogz said:

No mention of MicroSol or MicroFilm?

My decal applications are 50/50. I got a few sets form Excelsior, and this is what he's recommended; the micro sol & micro film. But I still get the few curled edges or cracked decals as I apply them..

Click to expand...

+1 for both MicorSol and Microfilm. Highly recommend MicroSol for use when applying any type or manufactures decals.

Thanks for all the advice! Could not find Krylon easily, so I picked up some Rustoleum Clear Gloss Acrylic (laquer based automotive clear coat) which seemed very similar in composition; it worked beautifully on the first attempt. The decals turned out just a tiny bit thicker than I was looking for, but they look solid. Pictures to follow soon!

Purkeypilot said:

Thanks for all the advice! Could not find Krylon easily, so I picked up some Rustoleum Clear Gloss Acrylic (laquer based automotive clear coat) which seemed very similar in composition; it worked beautifully on the first attempt. The decals turned out just a tiny bit thicker than I was looking for, but they look solid. Pictures to follow soon!

Click to expand...

Great to hear of your success! I've been using the Rusto you've noted for decals with excellent results.

Banjo players got to stick together.... I am with Chris on this one: paper from decalpaper.com (I have also used Micro Mark paper) coated with UV resistant Krylon Gloss Clear Acrylic.

Slight variation from the piano player - my system: Papilio media (good stuff and available up to 11x17) and their UV clear. Never, ever use any non-UV resistant clear...decals will turn screaming ugly yellowish in a few years. If it doesn't mention UV resistance, it isn't!! Micro-mark media is also good as John noted.