Rail and Rail Button Comparison

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Oh Man! What a Perfect Launch Day!
Couldn't have been a more glorious day. Med 60 to low 70's, Light breeze to about 10mph all day, perfectly clear sky.
had a great time launching from the new Nanobeam Rail using 00-90 button head stainless steel machine screws with 1/16" OD x 1/32" long PTFE Sleeves & 1/8" dia. polycarbonate washer. I've found the length of the sleeve is critical to keeping the models Locked in the rail without binding in the slot.
I used two different models a minimum diameter T2+ 3F&NC micro model about 5g LOWt. and a BT-5 scale like model, 10.7g LOWt I've been working on with 4 clear lexan fins.
Both models we fitted with 00-90 Nano buttons, sleeve & washer set up as mentioned above. Even when launched into cross breeze gusts to about 12mph the models flew perfectly straight to apogee. I'm very happy with how these models performed off the NanoBeam rails.
My plan is to start using these 00-90 button head MS on most of my new Micro Maxx Scale models and likely a few Sport flying models as well.
I did shoot videos of the lift-offs but apparently I don't have the correct connecting cable to download them yet.
I did catch both NanoBeam models coming off the rail just after ignition... I'm shocked as I've not been very good a catching Micro Maxx Liftoffs in the past.
A couple of those photos are show below.

MM 417Lp01a_NanoBeam Test(On Rail for 1st Test)_04-16-16.jpg

MM 417Lp01b_NanoBeam Test(OnPadfor1stFlt)_04-16-16.jpg

MM 417Lp01c_NanoBeam Test(Countdown1stFltTest)_04-16-16.jpg

MM 417Lp01d_NanoBeam Test(Liftoff 1st Flt)_04-16-26.jpg

MM 418Lp01a_260 USAF SpaceBooster(On NanoBeam Rail)_04-16-16.jpg

MM 418Lp01b_260 USAF SpaceBooster(On NanoBeam Pad-1st Flt)_04-16-16.jpg

MM 418Lp01c_260 USAF SpaceBooster(Clears Nanobeam Rail-1st Flt)_04-16-16.jpg

MM 401Lp03a_SteamPunk MACME Shrew(On Pad 3rd Flt)_04-16-16.jpg

MM 401Lp03c_SteamPunk MACME Shrew(Clears Rod-3rd Flt)_04-16-16.jpg
 
Doh! sorry I typed a comma where a period should have been. The link is fixed. but I'll type it here agian www.narhams.org

Edit: I'll try to up-load the .pdf version of TechTip-021 here if the file isn't to large.

Thank you so much for this! I'm returning after a few decades away from the hobby and all this "rail" and "rail button" stuff is all new to me, but I could tell it was newest, best thing. I have no intention of getting into HPR, or Micro, but I'm pretty sure I want to use the rail system for all of my future LPR/MPR builds. Thanks again.
 
Thank you so much for this! I'm returning after a few decades away from the hobby and all this "rail" and "rail button" stuff is all new to me, but I could tell it was newest, best thing. I have no intention of getting into HPR, or Micro, but I'm pretty sure I want to use the rail system for all of my future LPR/MPR builds. Thanks again.

Well they may be called "micro" buttons, but don't let that fool you. These buttons are perfect for LPR rockets. So far we've used them on up to BT-60 kits. I'd venture to say they'd work on BT-80 kits up to E engines. I'm not sure they're the best option though.

For D and E engines, my personal recommendation is to use the mini buttons. And I'd be very comfortable using the through G engines. Heck, I'd probably trust them on baby H engines. I have 3 sizes in rails now. I've found no need to go to 1515 buttons just yet. And we're still exploring the nano buttons for MicroMaxx rockets. So no perfect fits there yet.
 
Has anyone tried using mini or micro rail for high power (J, K) launches? Not huge rockets, but something like a minimum diameter 38 or 54mm where one would want a lower-profile rail guide than a 1010.
 
Has anyone tried using mini or micro rail for high power (J, K) launches? Not huge rockets, but something like a minimum diameter 38 or 54mm where one would want a lower-profile rail guide than a 1010.

Probably better off going with a tower or some of wfcook's fly-away rail guilds, personally the micros and mini rail buttons might be a bit on the small side for high performance HPRs, although the mini's rails are not all that much smaller than the 1010 rails (20mm vs. 25mm iirc).
 
I have found a 5" section of aluminum T to fit a Makerbeam, but cutting, sanding aluminum is messy, and so I must devise a clever way to remove the part I need. It is currently trapped in a piece that used to be the hanger bracket for my closet doors in my bathroom.
 
I think what I'll try about the screw threads when using screws for buttons is fill them with JB Weld, then sand them smooth.
That seems to solve that.
If you can find a tiny enough one, the telescopic antenna from AM/FM radios have the tiniest section that can be cut into tiny sleeves.

I'll try the JB Weld on this one, since I'm using JB Quick on the Fins anyhow. It's Makerbeam size, but will be a good test for this method.


View attachment 287653

Just use the brass sleeve from a servo mounting kit it has a flange you place against the body tube so you get the perfect spacing and works perfect with a #2 brass screw in makerbeam rail
 
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Not my idea but a good one from the forum. Pice of brass tubing, dowel and 3/16" rod JB welded to the end of the rail. Works very well. Also some square tubing and #2 screws can make a slick adapter.

IMG_1617 (1).jpg

IMG_1618 (1).jpg
 
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