What to use to cut Switch band on 4 1/2" FG tube

I need to cut a switch band would a wet tile saw make a really good cut ? , I have 12 " miter saw but that seems like would tear up tube and destroy blade?



thanks in advance

A fiberglass or Diamond cut-off wheel on a Dremel will do.

JD

michigander said:

I need to cut a switch band would a wet tile saw make a really good cut ? , I have 12 " miter saw but that seems like would tear up tube and destroy blade?

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You can use a diamond blade in your chop saw. The only problem is they tend not to come in large diameters so 4.5" might be tough to find. (That's probably a 12" blade.)

Another option is to use a smaller diamond blade, mounted into a table saw and use a jig to roll the tube through the blade coming up from the table below.

A tile saw is better than either because the water washes away the particles instead of them going into your lungs, but again it's going to be hard to find a tile saw capable of cutting through the tube in one shot.

I built a jig around a cheap tile saw that might give you some other ideas: Cheap Tube Saw.

I've used my Delta miter saw with a carbide blade to cut 38mm FG tube, and it worked extremely well. Just go slow, especially towards the end of the cut.

EDIT- the last time I cut tube, I took off less than a 3/8 wide piece. Another tip, keep the blade down until it stops spinning.

McKailas Dad said:

I've used my Delta miter saw with a carbide blade to cut 38mm FG tube, and it worked extremely well. Just go slow, especially towards the end of the cut.

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This will work, and I use a 10" Makita for cutting glass wrapped cardboard airframes. The slow feed part is whats really important, putting too much pressure will cause the blade to deflect just a bit. If your switch band is very narrow make sure the section of tubing you are cutting it off of is long enough to safely hold on to, I personally don't like clamping airframes to cut other than with my hand just in case I put to much pressure on the tube and egg it during the cut. Make sure and wear a respirator while cutting, a good particulate respirator is only $25-$40 at Home Depot, and once you have one it will have many other uses.

Here's the piece I cut off, not even sanded...



Clean as a whistle! Not even a nub.

Cuts fiberglass like butter and its cheap too. Do it outside and wear a disposable mask, as the fine dust goes everywhere.

https://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=20346076

https://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=20346146


I bought wrong one at local store , anybody ever try the masonry one ? , no cutting yet fence isn't square to blade

Have Wildman do it for you.

I've lost track of how many FG tubes I've cut from 38mm to 9". 10" mitre box max is about 4" . You may have to rotate once to go through. Larger than 4" I've cut with a bimetal jig saw blade or I now have a simple sliding jig to cut them on a table saw. My method: use fine tooth , carbide saw blades, like 60 tooth or more on a 10" blade. Also your cut travel needs to be slow. For less than $10-15 you can make a tool to dress the ends on tubes up to 9" using a battery drill.

This: https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in...-miter-saw-with-laser-guide-system-61969.html.

With short pieces you just need to put a 1"x2" against the normal fence to use as backing, then use the slide feature to cut ~2/3rd through, rotate and complete your cut.

Tool to dress tube ends made with a 7" masonry blade and an arbor from Home Depot. I have another with a 10" blade. Metal cutting or masonry, which ever is cheaper, the glue a sheet of 120 sandpaper to it and trim around the edge or buy the self sticking pads.

Jig for kerfing and cutting big tubes. Careful using fences unless you use a jig like this and set your depth just enough to cut through the wall of the tube. Using a fence or full-sized stop and sliding a large blade all the way through a tube can bind if not careful. The cut off piece can fly apart if it becomes bound. Using a small stop like 1 x 2 mentioned early is the safest method.

Reinforced cut off wheel, dremel, and a hose clamp to use as a guide for a straight cut. Did it yesterday it was painless and came out square.

Mightyrocketman said:

Reinforced cut off wheel, dremel, and a hose clamp to use as a guide for a straight cut. Did it yesterday it was painless and came out square.

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That's even better!

terryg said:

Cuts fiberglass like butter and its cheap too. Do it outside and wear a disposable mask, as the fine dust goes everywhere.

https://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=20346076

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What I use also. The metal cutoff wheel on a chop saw or miter saw will last a long time and they are cheap cheap cheap. I use a good particulate respirator and goggles when cutting or sanding fiberglass:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FTEDMM/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Made the cut tonight , thanks everybody for the ideas

used that masonry blade , not perfect but good enough , marks will line it back up so no biggie

For years I've been using a 12" 100 tooth carbide blade in my Dewalt (non-sliding) cutoff saw. I get PERFECT cuts every time that are as good or better than factory cuts. Surprisingly there is little dust produced by the blade, but of course I wear a mask. I then hold the tube tightly against the fence by hand and go very slowly waiting for the blade to stop after the cut is done. After, I hold a large sheet of 220 grit sandpaper in one hand while rotating the tube end back and forth which cleans up the edge both inside and out, the same way I prep factory cut tubes.