Eggtimer Quantum - A WiFi-Enabled Flight Computer

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Can't wait to get to mine tonight. Have to get the junk out of my casserole dish and get the build instructions and pictures on a tablet to take out in the garage. Kurt
 
cerving said:
There's an error in the silkscreen on the board, and consequently in the instructions (although I'm fixing it now...). BOTH of the resistors between the optoisolators should be 472's, one of them is marked 103. This shortchanges the current to the main channel-test optoisolator, which may or may not affect it... it's pretty marginal. You'll notice that you don't have a spare 103 but you got two spare 472's... that's why!
Click to expand...

Ooops,

The build photo shows one 472 and one 103. https://www.eggtimerrocketry.com/page16.php?view=preview&category=17&q=&ImageGalleryPage=2&image=294

Both of 'em need to be 472's? Ok. Kurt
 
cerving said:
Well, it was done before the advisory...

Guess I'll have to build another one. At least I only need to take one picture.
Click to expand...

Probably just make it clear on the "to be" shipped kits or another thing would be put an "X" on the 103 in the picture and annotate it to be a 472. Wouldn't have to build another one unless you want to mail it to me when you're done.:lol::surprised:

Kurt
 
Actually, I'm going to open them all up and put a note in them. I need another one anyway... I have a Rocketry Warehouse G3 half built that I need to start finishing for LDRS. No way I'm gonna put that thing up on a L1000 without two altimeters.
 
cerving said:
Actually, I'm going to open them all up and put a note in them. I need another one anyway... I have a Rocketry Warehouse G3 half built that I need to start finishing for LDRS. No way I'm gonna put that thing up on a L1000 without two altimeters.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I did a Wildman "Stretch" (lengthened 3" Wildman rocket) on a single altimeter, MAWD on a Loki L1400. Was nominal but I'm taking the tracker out of the 10" long ebay and bought an extra nosecone that is longer and I can put the tracker
in there and an extra deployment altimeter in the ebay for backup. Kurt
 
cerving said:
Actually, I'm going to open them all up and put a note in them. I need another one anyway... I have a Rocketry Warehouse G3 half built that I need to start finishing for LDRS. No way I'm gonna put that thing up on a L1000 without two altimeters.
Click to expand...

Go Cris Go !

Cant wait to see this flight

Kenny
 
Putting the 103 in place of the 472 won't break it, that's why I missed it on the silkscreen. All it ends up doing is shortchanging the current to the continuity checking optoisolator on the Main channel, so you might get a false "OFF" when it should be "ON". Sometimes it doesn't matter... I flew my GLR Escape Velocity about 7 times in the past 3 months with the "wrong" resistor and never had any continuity check issues.
 
Got 'er done tonight. Did two evening build. This one was tough for me as I had solder bridges on those opto-
isolators. I can't figure it out as I've built, EggTimers, Qwarks, TRS's without bridges but couldn't get the solder
to go where I wanted. Used the wick a bit and desoldering sucker more than I've ever used before and did a real boner. Got right down to the end and connected the battery terminal to the DB+ and B+!! Plugged in the battery and Nada, yada, yada, yada. No smoke or heat out of it and just thought I overcooked some of the components this time with the difficult soldering. (The build is no harder than past projects, I just had some issues with the solder
that's all!)

Weeeeelllll, took another look at the picture and Holee Cripes I recognized the mistake above. Toasted the terminal
block getting it off the board, put an extra one on the "right space" and jumpered for single battery ops.

Plugged in my 1500mah "mule" 2s Lipo pack and by golly the "cooked" Quantum gave me the "It's alive!"
signals. (My "mule" pack is a slightly swollen pack that got "cooked" in my car last summer I use for testing.
Has 1200mah capacity after being abused.)

I have a giant collection/assortment of LEDs I got for $4.00 from Electronics Goldmine on sale and connected
a couple up on the ematch circuits for testing. The Quantum "cooked" one of the red ones and the green one
glowed yellow for two seconds. Pulled out some larger ones and continued to test the channels just fine.
I like this device. The design isn't any harder to build, it's just stupidhead had a bad
night assembling. Got another one to put together so I'll see if I can redeem myself. I stuck the two 472 resistors between the opto-isolators properly.

IMG_20160325_231727.jpg


Kurt
 
Built my first one today. It works!! The test function is great. Do I need to do vacuum test or does it self test? Also is it possible to clear the flights or will it only wrap around and thus clear the first flight?
 
Maxter said:
Built my first one today. It works!! The test function is great. Do I need to do vacuum test or does it self test? Also is it possible to clear the flights or will it only wrap around and thus clear the first flight?
Click to expand...

It self-tests, and you don't have to clear the memory out either. If you see the Status Page then the baro sensor and memory are working...
 
My Quantums are both flight proven now and no better way to do so under the personal tutorial of the eGG wizard Cris.

I had a better experience avoiding my browers suggested urls using 'private mode' browser.

Was really novel being able to investigate the unfired eMatch with the Quantum.. unplug power but leave av bay hooked up. Replug in the power and bring up Test mode in phone browser to reFire both channels .

Thanks for making the Trek out and joining us at TRASD Cris !

Kenny
 
KenRico said:
My Quantums are both flight proven now and no better way to do so under the personal tutorial of the eGG wizard Cris.

I had a better experience avoiding my browers suggested urls using 'private mode' browser.

Was really novel being able to investigate the unfired eMatch with the Quantum.. unplug power but leave av bay hooked up. Replug in the power and bring up Test mode in phone browser to reFire both channels .

Thanks for making the Trek out and joining us at TRASD Cris !

Kenny
Click to expand...

Hi Kenny- What can you tell us about your flight with the unfired eMatch?
 
how about three of four of his matches did not fire. not an electronics fault. three were open- battery direct didnt fire them either. Almost a lawn stake- main deployed just in time to save the rocket. Criss and Kenny did a thorough analysis and are not happy with those matches. He will chime in and fill this out some more.
 
soopirV said:
Hi Kenny- What can you tell us about your flight with the unfired eMatch?
Click to expand...

Like Warner said it is all eMatch problem...not Quantum or connections.

Have eMailed mfg , they were NOT chinese eBay igniters - hopefully they respond quickly

Kenny
 
I searched the thread and didn't see this asked or answered, but what is the unit of measure for the Drogue delay? In reading the manual it's not listed. I'm assuming it's milliseconds?
 
Yes, it's milliseconds. In the next release of the firmware it will display as seconds... it's easier to read.
 
Got mine yesterday. I'll have to wait a while to build it since I'm about to head out of town for a business trip. Looks really nice and easy to build. Can't wait.
 
mccordmw said:
Got mine yesterday. I'll have to wait a while to build it since I'm about to head out of town for a business trip. Looks really nice and easy to build. Can't wait.
Click to expand...

Throw your soldering iron into the suitcase! Just finished building mine- my only suggestion that deviates from Cris' build instructions (Cris, please weigh in and let me know if there's a specific reason for your sequence) is to install the 4.7k resistors that are between the optoisolators first, followed by the optoisolators. It's doable in the order listed, but I had to come at one of the resistors with a really steep angle.
 
soopirV said:
my only suggestion that deviates from Cris' build instructions to install the 4.7k resistors that are between the optoisolators first, followed by the optoisolators. It's doable in the order listed, but I had to come at one of the resistors with a really steep angle.
Click to expand...

I built my first per instructions and had the same experience. On my second build, I did the first optoisolator, then the 2 4.7K resistors ,and then the other optoisolator.
 
Yes, it is a bit easier to install the two 4.7K resistors before the second optoisolator. I'll change the assembly instructions.
 
cerving said:
Yes, it is a bit easier to install the two 4.7K resistors before the second optoisolator. I'll change the assembly instructions.
Click to expand...

I noticed that too, so before putting in the 2nd optoisolator, I put in the 4.7k resistors. Made it way easier. I also changed another build step to make things easier. The step where you solder the 4 resistor leaded wires and then mount the wifi chip on them was too difficult to do. The tall resistors would wobble around, and the resulting short posts were crooked. Getting the wires to line up with the tiny holes on the wifi chip was a bear. Had to keep bending them to position.

I desoldered them, flipped the board, and put the wifi chip down. It was easy to thread the 4 wires top-down then. Put in one wire, pivot the chip to get the next wire in, etc. Do this for the four corners. Was easier to then solder first on the top, tape the chip down, flip, and then solder the bottom. Re-flip and then do the rest the same way.

Total assembly time for me was 4 hours, but I powered up the Quantum last night, and it seemed to work like a charm. I'll wire up some ematches to it tonight to make sure the continuity check passes and I can arm. Overall, a really nifty product!

Also, I would highly highly recommend getting these glasses for checking your work. At $7 for lighted 20x jewellers glasses, they're a steal. Helps spot any iffy solder spots. And those stubby contacts were definitely a challenge to get right.

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B007YBEHIO
 
I built the quantum kit last week and it's working well. I'm about to install it into my altimeter bay, but wanted to get a better feel for how to mount this unit, given the very tight clearance around the two mounting holes near the WiFi module. I don't want to clamp down and break it, nor short it out somehow. I have some 3mm nylon screws, and some 4-40 steel screws to mount with.. but both of them have a problem with one of the two narrow mounting holes. The screws clip the WiFi board. How should I go about mounting this? Perhaps some silicon tubing as a conformal washer, used with a longer screw? How do you mount your quantum? Here's some pictures detailing this question:

IMG_0912.jpgIMG_0913.jpgIMG_0914.jpgIMG_0915.jpgIMG_0916.jpgIMG_0917.jpgIMG_0918.jpgIMG_0919.jpg
 
kevinkal said:
I built the quantum kit last week and it's working well. I'm about to install it into my altimeter bay, but wanted to get a better feel for how to mount this unit, given the very tight clearance around the two mounting holes near the WiFi module. I don't want to clamp down and break it, nor short it out somehow. I have some 3mm nylon screws, and some 4-40 steel screws to mount with.. but both of them have a problem with one of the two narrow mounting holes. The screws clip the WiFi board. How should I go about mounting this? Perhaps some silicon tubing as a conformal washer, used with a longer screw? How do you mount your quantum? Here's some pictures detailing this question:
Click to expand...

I use 4-40 cap screws. They fit ok with no interference.
 

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