Getting a smooth finish?

I have a loadstarII that had a base color and no clear. Recently I decided to sand it clean and give it some fresh paint. I'd like to use this rocket as practice doing roll patterns as I find functionality appealing and want to be good at making them. This leads me to two questions to pose the infinite knowledge of the World Wide Web;

1) the current final coat of base color is baby butt smooth after light sanding up to 1,500 grit, every time I add a coat it becomes rough again (rust-oleum) is there a trick to coving this nice smooth finish with my rattle can of uv resistant clear and preserve the finish?

2) does anyone have tips or tricks for masking off for roll patterns? My primary concern is getting square edges with the masking. I know to use another layer of base color before switching to black. I believe the masking is my biggest worry.

Any by and all comments are welcomed!

Vethen said:

2) does anyone have tips or tricks for masking off for roll patterns? My primary concern is getting square edges with the masking.

Click to expand...

Yes, buy them from Mark @ Stckershock. I bought a whole assortment of sizes and colors to pick as I need.

Vethen said:

I have a loadstarII that had a base color and no clear. Recently I decided to sand it clean and give it some fresh paint. I'd like to use this rocket as practice doing roll patterns as I find functionality appealing and want to be good at making them. This leads me to two questions to pose the infinite knowledge of the World Wide Web;

1) the current final coat of base color is baby butt smooth after light sanding up to 1,500 grit, every time I add a coat it becomes rough again (rust-oleum) is there a trick to coving this nice smooth finish with my rattle can of uv resistant clear and preserve the finish?

2) does anyone have tips or tricks for masking off for roll patterns? My primary concern is getting square edges with the masking. I know to use another layer of base color before switching to black. I believe the masking is my biggest worry.

Any by and all comments are welcomed!

Click to expand...

I am assuming your rocket has primer right now, and it is getting rough when you spray paint it. Sand down the coat of primer, and spray light coats starting from the left to the right 7-10 inches away from the rocket. Don't start on the rocket, because if you press the button when the can is over the rocket some paint will splatter and you could be left with a runny, excess of paint. Instead start on the air on the left of the rocket and let go when you're on the air to the right of the rocket. Repeat light coats of primer and sand, until the rocket is smooth. Then, use the same spraying technique with the paint, light coats 7-10 inches from the rocket, 2-3 coats. Don't use too much paint, and don't hold trigger for too long, hold it for 3-4 second bursts rotating the rocket when you paint.

There is a couple of reasons your paint isn't ending up smooth and flush, one can be static electricity forming on bumpy, rugged parts of your rocket. Static electricity forms in these areas, which is why it is so important to make sure your parts are smooth and free of ridges. Leave your rocket alone for a couple hours when it's drying as well. The second reason could be that you are using too much paint, or your painting uneven, that is why you should follow the painting technique to make sure everything is nice and even. You may then finish the rocket by applying a clear coat of enamel paint to "protect" the rocket.

There are many other reasons your paint could be ending up this way. Could you post a picture so I have a better understanding of what it's looking like?

Regards,

Daniel

If your base is smooth and you are happy with the coverage, continue painting. Using cellophane tape helps get sharp edges and using the frosted tape helps you tell when the edges are burnished down. I recommend that you peel a length of tape and use a fresh blade and metal straight edge to get a good masking edge.

Once all of the color is applied, you can smooth with 600 grit or higher and clear over it. I like to warm the clear in a pan of water before I spray. If you want that killer wet look, carefully smooth the first clear coat by wet sanding with 600-800 grit (be sure that the tube ends are sealed/protected). Apply additional clear coats until you get one that cures with the sine that you are looking for. This can be done without wet sanding but that is how I like to do it.

Vethen said:

I have a loadstarII that had a base color and no clear. Recently I decided to sand it clean and give it some fresh paint. I'd like to use this rocket as practice doing roll patterns as I find functionality appealing and want to be good at making them. This leads me to two questions to pose the infinite knowledge of the World Wide Web;

1) the current final coat of base color is baby butt smooth after light sanding up to 1,500 grit, every time I add a coat it becomes rough again (rust-oleum) is there a trick to coving this nice smooth finish with my rattle can of uv resistant clear and preserve the finish?

Click to expand...

Sounds to me like the common dry spray problem. The paint is partly dry by the time it hits the surface and you end up with the rough finish you describe. The two most common causes are holding the can too far from the subject and/or moving too fast. Practice and watching someone else (like your rocket buddy who always has the best paint jobs) is the way to go.

Vethen said:

2) does anyone have tips or tricks for masking off for roll patterns? My primary concern is getting square edges with the masking. I know to use another layer of base color before switching to black. I believe the masking is my biggest worry.

Click to expand...

I also have had good luck using "magic" tape to mask straight lines. Whatever tape you use, burnish the edges (rub with a blunt instrument like a dowel) and pick up tape before the paint is completely dry to avoid flaking. Hope this helps.

Vethen said:

Any by and all comments are welcomed!

Click to expand...

The best masking tape I've used is Tamiya. Comes in a variety of widths, including very narrow, so you canlay down some curves if needed. Can be found at hobby stores at craft stores like Hobby Lobby. Its pricey, but a masking job on a rocket does nty use all that much tape. Its not like you are masking the kid's bedroom and covering all the wood trim. Note: You can use cheaper making tape (I still use high quality like 3M, I just mean cheaper than Tamiya). to tape paper covering over areas that need to avoid spray. Just make sure the cheaper tape is taped to the Tamiya tape, so that the Tamiya is providing the mask line for paint colr separation.

Here is a red/white/black rocket, all masking was done with Tamiya. It got a white base coat, and then red and black add-on coats. I've had good luck with a variety of spray paints, but this rocket was done using Rustoleum Lacquer in the big cans, which I like quite a bit. It only comes in these colors, but I've used Testors and Model Masters Lacquer over the Rustoleum White Lacquer.

Whenever I unmask somewhere off from painting with painters tape, if you look closely there will be some paint that got under the tape near the edges. From a couple feet away you can't really tell but when I get up close it really bothers me. Any solutions? I've tried really pressing those tape edges down, but it still happens.

danielsadjadi said:

Whenever I unmask somewhere off from painting with painters tape, if you look closely there will be some paint that got under the tape near the edges. From a couple feet away you can't really tell but when I get up close it really bothers me. Any solutions? I've tried really pressing those tape edges down, but it still happens.

Click to expand...

IMO, you need a higher quality tape. Painters tape is OK for walls in your house painted with brushes and rollers. The aerosolized paint from a spray can or air brush will find its way under any edge not completely stuck down. Some of the name brand painters tapes are OK (3M, Frog Tape). I have tried cheap/generic/store brands of painters tape and will never do so again.... you get what you pay for. Like Trident, I am a fan of Tamiya tape for the best clean lines/edges on my rockets.

danielsadjadi said:

Whenever I unmask somewhere off from painting with painters tape, if you look closely there will be some paint that got under the tape near the edges. From a couple feet away you can't really tell but when I get up close it really bothers me. Any solutions? I've tried really pressing those tape edges down, but it still happens.

Click to expand...

Hit the area you're painting with the color already there. Then use the final color. Biggest problem I've had doing that is a stepped surface where the paint is bit thicker in some areas, but looks better than the bleeds you are getting.

Mike

That's a very wise idea, you can a single light coat directed towards the edge of the tape, then just use the final color. That would help reduce the 'stepping' problem.