Why would one NOT want to place the shear pins as far forward as practical?

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So assuming the cone does not have a lot of ballast, that would have lots of inertia at drogue deployment, why not use a small piece (or two) of Scotch tape on the outside?


I do, although use masking tape.

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A viable option, in many instances....for various reasons.
forgot to drill shear-pin holes
longer than normal motor, holes could not align.
cardboard rockets -retro fit.
extra retention of a non-permanent type, or as you mention above
 
I do, although use masking tape.

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A viable option, in many instances....for various reasons.
forgot to drill shear-pin holes
longer than normal motor, holes could not align.
cardboard rockets -retro fit.
extra retention of a non-permanent type, or as you mention above

That's why the call him blackJACK--he's a JACK OF ALL TRADES. Uses every rocketry method known to man (or is that mankind 8{}).
 
I have only used 1 2-256 pin in 38mm airframes , going against the so -called rules , since the beginning.

1 was all that what needed according to calculations and that's what was implemented.
These are fiberglass with smooth fitting, cones. Not to tight, nor loose.
I see no reason to use 2, & have to increase BP to shear them.
I have 1 paper rocket that I wrapped a strip of glass around the top of tube where shear-pin hole is.
It also functions fine. I have never had any problem with NC's getting stuck or "cocked" in tube.
I am not the only one doing so, several of my flying buddies do the same.

yes, I agree, you, and your buddies, are exactly right.
 
Very cool! Thanks for the post! ... and in 2-56 too: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XIOO0ZQ/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

May still not work very well in small cardboard tube, but they look awesome for fiberglass and larger tubes of any material. Great versatility since you can standardize on the insert, but use metal or nylon bolt depending on what part of the airframe needs to separate.
 
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Very cool! Thanks for the post! ... and in 2-56 too: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XIOO0ZQ/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

May still not work very well in small cardboard tube, but they look awesome for fiberglass and larger tubes of any material. Great versatility since you can standardize on the insert, but use metal or nylon bolt depending on what part of the airframe needs to separate.

I have used them on: 4-40 on 4" paper, 2-56 on 3" fiberglass and carbon, 6-32 on 5" fiberglass. All of the above worked great for both shear coupling and non-shear coupling. For shear coupling you mount the the threaded nut on the outside tube and the counter sunk washer on the inside, it acts like a cutter for the plastic screw. For non-shear coupling do the opposite, mount the counter sunk washer on the outside and the threaded insert on the inside.

I have heard of a few folks using the 2-56 on fairly small paper airframes and it seams to work well.
 
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