3/8" and smaller is great. I'm shying away from 3/4" anymore unless it's 11 or 12" or more diameter. I used 1/2" on my 9" Patriot. Whether I fly an N motor or crash it, bigger rings won't matter.
Post Your Jigs and Such
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rharshberger
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The thicker CRs are easier I find to do with my bandsaw to get about 1/8" or larger and then use the OD sanding jig to get perfect, and a jigsaw and drum sander on the ID (spindle type is best but a drill press with drum works too).
o1d_dude
'I battle gravity'
Cool idea, Top!
dixontj93060
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For measuring/marking I turn to Incra. Far more accurate than I'll ever need to be (whether metric or imperial).
[YOUTUBE]NSlvunxlfz8[/YOUTUBE]
TopRamen
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They are why I had to make this. They only offer a 300 and 600mm version, and they are out of stock at the couple of places I would order one from. I was going to settle for the 600mm version, but Amazon says it's no longer available.
I have and like their 12" Rule.
Yup, just checked their site again and they NO LONGER MAKE THE ANGLED RULES.
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The scroll saw cir let cutter was not mine, another member submitted that, I may build one when I have time.
rharshberger
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The circle cutter you are referring to I believe may be the one I posted, when I get home this evening I will see if I can get any photos of it in use. Also feel free to ask questions about it.
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I have 3/4" wood dowel with two rings glued on it to shove up inside an airframe to paint it. Make multiple jigs for different size airframes.
cavecentral
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They are why I had to make this. They only offer a 300 and 600mm version, and they are out of stock at the couple of places I would order one from. I was going to settle for the 600mm version, but Amazon says it's no longer available.
I have and like their 12" Rule.
Yup, just checked their site again and they NO LONGER MAKE THE ANGLED RULES.
I see imperial bend rules on Amazon. 6", 12", and18".
TopRamen
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So do I, but I want Metric, as I use it exclusively now.
cavecentral
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Gotcha.
My car gets 40 rods to the hog's head and that's the way i like it!
My car gets 40 rods to the hog's head and that's the way i like it!
Great! Sorry for the misattribution, but I'd love to learn about your tool- cutting circles is a pita!
TopRamen
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I hope Incra brings back the metric bend rule.
I'll jump right on it if I ever do find one.
Til' then, I'm still working on designing a better 460mm bend rule of my own. That one was just my first idea.
I need to find the nicest yet thinnest steel rules that I can in that size, then take them to a machine shop to get properly put together.
I'll jump right on it if I ever do find one.
Til' then, I'm still working on designing a better 460mm bend rule of my own. That one was just my first idea.
I need to find the nicest yet thinnest steel rules that I can in that size, then take them to a machine shop to get properly put together.
rharshberger
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The process goes like this and there are two options to get the Outside Diameter
Option One:
1. Cut the blanks square to about +1/8" radius the size of the finished circle OD, mark the center and drill the center with a 1/8" brad point bit.
2. Place the center hole over the pivot pin on the scroll saw and carefully cut the circle to larger than the tube it goes in.
3. After circle is cut move to sanding jig ( 6th picture from left) drop the center over the pivot pin and lock the circle sander down and turn disc around pivot, adjust as necessary until a perfect fit is acheived in the airframe tube.
4. After the OD has been sanded to the correct size I move the disc to a drill press set up with a General Tools circle cutter (the one on right in last photo) and cut the center hole out, it may be necessary to adjust the center hole a small amount with a drum sander or dremel.
Option Two:
Everything above except step 2, instead I use the bandsaw or the scroll saw (without jig) to cut close to an circle drawn with a compass, drill for the pivot and sand to size on the disc sander (side mounted sander in the 5th photo). Generally this method is faster for thicker CR's and fewer blades get broken on the scroll saw. The disc sander uses a 60-80 grit disc.
Safety tip with the ID circle cutter: tack the CR to a waste board big enough to keep hands clear of the circle cutter and that can be clamped to the drill press table, I use 18 gauge brad nails for this purpose.
The brass pivot pin is visible near the scrollsaw blade and near the sanding disc, it is simply a piece of brazing rod with the flux removed and cleaned up. Depending on the size and complexity of the CRs I can cut all the rings and bulkheads for a dual deploy rocket in about an hour, thats 3 CR's, and the AvBay bulkheads (each bulkhead is made of two pieces to get the step effect), and usually in the same hour I can cut the parts to include a nosecone av-bay conversion.
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Awesome, thanks- I'm working on some av bay bulkheads now that I just rough cut with my cheapo-harbor freight fly cutter. Is there anything more to your sanding jig? Are the two boards interfaced in some way, or is the lower board simply a resting surface on which the upper board with pin rests?
rharshberger
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The lower plywood board is a base for the 3 pieces that are on top. The of the 3 pieces on top the outer 2 are glued/screwed on (screws from backside), the center board is free to slide via the dovetail angles. The boards on the sanding jig are literally identical to the ones on the scroll saw jig since I cut them all at the same time from a single piece of 1/4" Poplar wood. To lock the sliding center board in place I use a spring clamp (kind of like a big close pin). The dovetails for the three boards are cut on a table saw set at a 7 degree angle or so the board is roughly cut into long strips each 1/3 the width of the original board. When setting the gap between the boards I use a piece of posterboard so everything remains fairly loose, and the outside boards only get secured to the base. The base does have a guide board on the bottom that matches the slot in the sander table for positive alignment with the disc and it also allows the jig to be clamped in with a single clamp to the table. The diameter of the guide pin is arbitrary, the next sanding jig I build will most likely have interchangeable pins in 1/8" and 1/4" since my OD circle cutters use 1/4" pilot bits.
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Thanks Rich! I think I have a project to tackle this weekend!
SpaceDog
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It looks like they have the Incra metric bend rules here:
https://www.woodpeck.com/incrarules.html
I have had good luck ordering from this company in the past.
TopRamen
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Here's a Press I'm Making for doing Gussets and angles on wings by covering paper templates in fiberglass cloth.
The angle can be adjusted afterward to meet a variety of applications, then set permanently with Super Thin CA, as the paper core will feature perforations for free flow of liquid adhesives.
It will be choose your own adventure with geometrical shapes.
My Mindsim will profit greatly from this new order of assembly.
The actual Press will be a thermo-setting press.
That's why I used the metal tacks.
Also why the base of the trusses are elevated for airflow.
It would have to be an outdoor activity anyway, so it would be weather dependent and that throws in more variables than we would care to discuss here.
Should be somethin' to see anyhow. I'm definitely building it now.
The innards will be insulated to some degree by Aluminum Foil Tape.
The angle can be adjusted afterward to meet a variety of applications, then set permanently with Super Thin CA, as the paper core will feature perforations for free flow of liquid adhesives.
It will be choose your own adventure with geometrical shapes.
My Mindsim will profit greatly from this new order of assembly.
The actual Press will be a thermo-setting press.
That's why I used the metal tacks.
Also why the base of the trusses are elevated for airflow.
It would have to be an outdoor activity anyway, so it would be weather dependent and that throws in more variables than we would care to discuss here.
Should be somethin' to see anyhow. I'm definitely building it now.
The innards will be insulated to some degree by Aluminum Foil Tape.
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I finally had time to setup my new fin beveling table.
I've had this old Ryobi router table about 5 years. They still make it but t is now the Lime Green.
Bought a 2hp Ryobi, plunge router (didn't need the plunge but the 2HP does more work)
All the items below were bought at Home Depot.
I cut a piece of marker board to put a smooth surface on the table that can be easily replaced. On 2 screws hold on the front and either 2 more or clamps on the back.
On my old one that I sold, the G-10 would cut a groove in the Formica surface and cause ripples in the bevel when the piece would jump.
Just took my 18v router and cut matching slots that align with the fence adjusters.
Then installed a 1/2" piece of birch plywood for a taller fence and just cut an opening for the 1/2" collet, tapered bit.
Fences should have all the edges rounded or beveled so dust doesn't cause the fin to drift away from the cutting bit.
One continuous fence keeps the piece moving smoothly. On these cheap router tables, even when you shim the 2 fence halves, it is difficult to keep the piece moving without jumping during the cut.
2HP Ryobi Router mounted under the table
Move pieces slowly through the machine, I run all bevels twice to get a precise bevel.
The finished fin from 1/2" birch.
Table was $99 and so was the router. Get these bits from the Woodcraft store. I believe it was a 70 deg bit, 1/2" collet
I've had this old Ryobi router table about 5 years. They still make it but t is now the Lime Green.
Bought a 2hp Ryobi, plunge router (didn't need the plunge but the 2HP does more work)
All the items below were bought at Home Depot.
I cut a piece of marker board to put a smooth surface on the table that can be easily replaced. On 2 screws hold on the front and either 2 more or clamps on the back.
On my old one that I sold, the G-10 would cut a groove in the Formica surface and cause ripples in the bevel when the piece would jump.
Just took my 18v router and cut matching slots that align with the fence adjusters.
Then installed a 1/2" piece of birch plywood for a taller fence and just cut an opening for the 1/2" collet, tapered bit.
Fences should have all the edges rounded or beveled so dust doesn't cause the fin to drift away from the cutting bit.
One continuous fence keeps the piece moving smoothly. On these cheap router tables, even when you shim the 2 fence halves, it is difficult to keep the piece moving without jumping during the cut.
2HP Ryobi Router mounted under the table
Move pieces slowly through the machine, I run all bevels twice to get a precise bevel.
The finished fin from 1/2" birch.
Table was $99 and so was the router. Get these bits from the Woodcraft store. I believe it was a 70 deg bit, 1/2" collet
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That's a nice clean setup- I tried a slightly different approach with limited success: I cut a beveled fence (~10 deg, I think) with a recess for a 1/4" straight cut bit. It did an okay job, but had a good bit of chatter. I probably broke some rules by running the stock between the bit and the fence, I'm not a skilled craftsman in any sense. Will try your technique with a beveled bit and square fence.
dixontj93060
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So simple and easy--why didn't I think of that?! I tell you, I am really "tool challenged" and just barely get by; I have to learn these things from others.
rharshberger
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For all who are interested most local city libraries have books on woodworking jigs, usually by type of tool, my local one has a bunch of them which I check out every so often to get reminders for great ideas.
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The pictures are my bevel cutter which uses a mini table saw and a wooden jig set to the angle I like. The fin alignment jig I have been using for 10 years. It will handle up to 98mm motor mounts. What you cannot see is the 36" long 5/8 threaded rod which centers the motor mounts. I made centering rings with a 5/8" hole that keeps everything aligned. I stacked and glued 3 of the centering rings together so that I can align 38mm, 54mm and 76mm motor mounts. In the picture the wood at the bottom of the motor mount is the base of the 76mm centering ring.
I would not run a router jig where the work-piece is between the bit and the fence. You should always run the piece on the outside of the bit. Much safer and better finish.
I was making a lot of G-10 fins with beveled edges and could not get the finish that was perfect until I did this kind of jig.
I had some 1/2" carbon panels that I wanted to make fins for my Level 3 rocket. I used the same jig to do this: I stood fins up on edge and ran them across a 1/2" round ball bit to cut a half circle into the edge. Then I J-B Welded 1/2" oak dowel into the edge for a rigid band around the fins.
I stained the oak edging then finished them with sanding sealer, sand then coat in high-gloss polyurethane.
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BDB
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I have been thinking of rigging my router to do something like this to bevel some carbon fiber fins, but I would like to create a sharp 10 degree bevel. The only bits that I have seen with a 10 degree bevel are made for dovetailing, so they are tapered "the other way." I'll probably have to make an angled fence unless someone can point me toward the right bit.
