I.D.S.S. - My BALLS 26? Project

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Well, I sanded and glued and sanded and glued some more. I realize I've been slacking on updating this thread, but TRF isn't high on my list of priorities at the moment.

I took the fins and beveled them on my 4x36in Belt sander. Just my sandard method of beveling fins, if you want to see it in detail, I believe my other builds will be useful. I didn't bother to take pics.

The fins were then bonded to the tube with JB weld and given a 3/4in JB weld fillet.
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Onto the T2T. I did 3 layers of standard 3k twill carbon and HTR-212 epoxy. These were vacuum bagged. I have to admit, this wasn't my best composites layup, but it's satisfactory for what I'm doing. I did all 4 sides at once because I don't have the time, patience or materials to do each individually. I wrestled with leaks in my bagging setup, but ultimately got good compression.


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Here it is finished, You can see at some points the epoxy didn't fill the weave of the carbon, but it's important to note that the carbon was fully saturated.

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Here's a close up of the fin "sandwich" with the fiberglass core, carbon outer layers and you can see the slightly proud phenolic leading edges in the background. So far, everything's gone according to plan.

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Also, I recieved a nosecone from WoShuGi. I want to thank him for sending it to me. This is the rocket as it sits right now, It's starting to look more like a rocket and less like plumbing.

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Alex
 

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Looking at your Burnsim plot it looks like you need to work on the motor more...
Why the 3.0" diameter? What tube and liner system yields this diameter?
Volume loading of 76% is pretty low....
MassFlux of 2.8 is asking for trouble....

Also - can you tell us how you plan to shape the Styrofoam mandrel? What tools are going to cut those fins with accuracy over the length?
 
Looking at your Burnsim plot it looks like you need to work on the motor more...
Oh.
Why the 3.0" diameter? What tube and liner system yields this diameter?
Case Liner
Volume loading of 76% is pretty low....
MassFlux of 2.8 is asking for trouble....
Yep. Just redesigned the motor to have a stepped core, with 1.0in for the majority of the motor and 1.5in at the back. This solves both problems.
Also - can you tell us how you plan to shape the Styrofoam mandrel? What tools are going to cut those fins with accuracy over the length?
Im cutting out .25 x .25 x *propellant length* styrofoam strips and gluing them to the core.
 
Most 4" HW has a 3.5" ID yielding 3.225" ID on the casting tubes.
If you are just casting a monograin into the liner, that would be 3.337"
So not sure why you are using 3.00"
 
Most 4" HW has a 3.5" ID yielding 3.225" ID on the casting tubes.
If you are just casting a monograin into the liner, that would be 3.337"
So not sure why you are using 3.00"

You shouldda clicked on the links I posted. This isn't a 4in project. It's a 3.25.

Thanks for following KenRico and NateLowrie.
 
You shouldda clicked on the links I posted. This isn't a 4in project. It's a 3.25.

Thanks for following KenRico and NateLowrie.

I see the case has an ID of 3.0. The liner I am assuming has an OD of 3.0? Wouldn't you want to use the ID of the liner in your Burnsim calcs? That's what I always do.
 
Ok - missed the doc ... read it now....

Casting 15# isn't a problem.
What might be a problem is packing that length of propellant without striking and damaging the Styrofoam core.
Will be interesting to hear your results.
Will also be interesting to hear how you coat the inside of the tube....I assume you'll rotisserie it....
 
Ok - missed the doc ... read it now....

Casting 15# isn't a problem.
What might be a problem is packing that length of propellant without striking and damaging the Styrofoam core.
Will be interesting to hear your results.
Will also be interesting to hear how you coat the inside of the tube....I assume you'll rotisserie it....

Pour, Pour, Pour! No way I would pack this, and I speak from experience. I am bringing my 75mm 47" long finacyl motor to fly again this year.

Dennis
 
Absolutely! I am running a 70/10 with 2% oximide and poured all 13#'s + of mine.

Dennis
 
82% solids, probably not, especially for a beginner.....
But I agree, pour if possible.

I am also very curious on how this is going to be cast. I think you could probably vacuum slit cast this with a packable mixture, but that's a lot of extra equipment.

How do the professional manufacturers normally do finocyl grains? (if this needs to be in the research forum, we can take it over there)
 
When I pack finocyls my mandrels are hard Delrin so they will take some hits from the packing stick without issue.
But I doubt you can do that with Styrofoam....this is why I asked.....
 
Well. Long story short, this isn't happening. At least not yet. I went to mr. solarover13's place to mix and POUR (yes, I changed formulas). The Propellant changed from pour-able to unpourable AS we were pouring, probably because it was hot and we were mixing in a garage. After a few minutes of panicking I decided it was a lost cause, and now I've got way too much in my scrap burn pile.
I'm not done with this concept though. I still have the electronics, NC, AV bay, etc. I really just need a new motor tube and FWC. Depending on how busy I am at school I may try again over my Christmas break. It'll be cooler then and hopefully the prop will be less anxious to cure.

I also might try my hand at machining a fincan. I dont think I NEED an AL one, but I'm sitting in a room with a couple 4 axis CNCs. When in rome...

Alex
 
Sorry to hear this, but as we know....$h2t happens, when dealing with Xtreme projects.

Keep the faith, you will get there, of that, I have no doubt!
 
Ok, that's interesting! Do you plan on machining the I.D. so you can slip it over the motor case? And how will you attach the fins? Drill holes through the flanges and fins and screw them in place? I assume the fins will be aluminum as well.

From watching lots of flights at BALLS for anything above Mach 3 aluminum fins sure seem to be the way to go. You can machine a much more precise airfoil and of course flutter is far less likely. Looking forward to watching progress on this.


Tony
 
Ok, that's interesting! Do you plan on machining the I.D. so you can slip it over the motor case? And how will you attach the fins? Drill holes through the flanges and fins and screw them in place? I assume the fins will be aluminum as well.

No need. I started with a 4in OD, 3.25 ID Tube, so the internal diameter is already at final spec.

Actually,
Here's my whole process.

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Here's what I started with. A 4in OD x 3.25 ID x 12in 6061, AL Tube, 1/8 6061 AL Sheet, 316SS Shim Stock, and a few endmills.
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Fins were cut on a band saw and "stack" milled to final dimensions. I then used a 10* tapered endmill to create the bevel. Maybe next time I'll use an adjustable angle plate. I'll get less chatter.

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The Tube was turned down to match the shape of the fillets. This'll make milling quite a bit easier. You can see I've left a bit of the tube on so I won't run into the chuck of the radial indexer.
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The Tube was mounted on a radial indexer on a Bridgeport. I was indicated to be square to the spindle and indicated to be rotating evenly. This setup took a while.

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I started by milling out the slot for the fins using an 1/8 endmill. A slitting saw would have most likely worked better and held tighter tolerances. I took .03 depth of cut with each pass and kept the feed rate fairly conservative. Lots of compressed air to blow away the chips. If you know anything about machining, you know machining a thin slot with and endmill isn't the easiest operation.

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I used a 7/16 ball nose 2 flute endmill to machine the fillet radius. This was done by moving the Y axis back and forth a certain amount. i took .050 passes until the slots were even with the machined end of the tube.
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Here are the finished brackets.

One of the best $50 I've spent is this 3/4in roughing endmill, specifically designed for Aluminum. I used this to remove the excess between the brackets.
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This step was the one that removed the most amount of material, but this step also took the least amount of time. I took the entire .3125 depth cut in one pass. The tube was rotated 3 times in between each bracket. Of course this didn't create the perfect cylindrical profile I'm looking for. Thats what sandpaper is for.
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Continued in the next post.
 
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(Continued From last post)

Here's what things looked like right after the roughing endmill.
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Quick dry fit. The fins are a little loose in the slots, which is a problem considering the slot depth. Thats why I bought the shim stock. The .002 shim stock will be great for perfecting the final fit.
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Lots of sanding ahead of me.
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Oh, and here's what my original CAD sketch looked like.
FC2.jpgFC.jpg

Alex
 
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...The .002 shim stock will be great for perfecting the final fit.
View attachment 303090...
Great photo set and notes. Thanks for taking the time for all that. In the initial photos it looked like a solid billet but using a thick tube makes a ton more sense. But I missed how you are attaching the fins in their slots. Your method looks like you could very easily drill through the fillet and fin for retention.

Thanks,


Tony
 
thanks for the great step by step guide- nicely done! did you machine an end for the center (to close the tube) or is that a purchased tool?
 
Looks great so far. How are you attaching it to the motor case?
Probably a good friction fit. Maybe a small screw through the aft end of the fincan and into the nozzle.

Great photo set and notes. Thanks for taking the time for all that. In the initial photos it looked like a solid billet but using a thick tube makes a ton more sense. But I missed how you are attaching the fins in their slots. Your method looks like you could very easily drill through the fillet and fin for retention.

Thanks,


Tony

You can see in my CAD sketch I've got 3 pins along the length of the fillet that attach the fins. I will still be using shim stock to snug up the fit.

That's a good idea. I was thinking ARC welding.
ARC welding is IMHO a last resort for aluminum. There are a million problems that come from welding aluminum, the two major ones being warpage and temper loss (both mine and the aluminum's). 6061-T6 changes to 6061-T0 along the heat affected zone of the weld, which makes it's UTS drop from 45ksi to 20ksi.
I cringe when I see people weld AL fins direct to an aluminum case.
thanks for the great step by step guide- nicely done! did you machine an end for the center (to close the tube) or is that a purchased tool?

I knew I forgot something... I made an insert so I could use a tail stock on the lathe and radial indexer. Really easy to do. I just turned down some 3.5in round stock to have a minimum diameter of 3.25in and have a *slight* taper along it's length. This was then press fit into the tubing until it was very snug.

I want to take a second to convey my thoughts on the AL vs Composite fincan debate.
I actually think quality composites are vastly superior to aluminum in this application (small sounding rocket style designs).
The issues with composites stem from hobbyists' inability to fabricate quality composite parts. Young's modulus for aluminum is around 70 GPa if I remember right. A quick google search reveals that CF has a modulus of between 135 and 175 GPa along it's fiber direction. I understand that not all forces are applied in that direction, but it isn't hard to design a plate that could resist flutter and bending appropriately. However, it does seem like a higher percentage of composite fin BALLS flights fail, and I think that's largely due to improper construction and design techniques, not composites in general. Tony I do see where you're coming from. I've seen so many people out there who have no idea about proper bonding and construction techniques, who don't give a second thought to aerodynamic heating rather then just "hey, lets just paint it with barbecue paint!" Those are the people who walk around picking up fins and swearing to use Aluminum next time.
Now, I'm not saying I have fantastic composites methods (I don't, which is why I made the AL one), nor am I saying that aluminum doesn't have it's place in fincans. CF and AL are both completely different beasts and just because a few composite fincans shred at M3.whatever doesn't mean it should be ruled out. Sorry for the slight rant, but I've put a lot of thought and research into this subject. It'd be good to have an actual discussion about it because of all the misconceptions about composites among the BALLS crowd.

Im still undecided on which fin can I'd prefer, but now I have 2 options.
I also made this because I'm a manufacturing engineering major and this is kind of what I do.
 
...You can see in my CAD sketch I've got 3 pins along the length of the fillet that attach the fins. I will still be using shim stock to snug up the fit......Tony I do see where you're coming from. I've seen so many people out there who have no idea about proper bonding and construction techniques, who don't give a second thought to aerodynamic heating rather then just "hey, lets just paint it with barbecue paint!" Those are the people who walk around picking up fins and swearing to use Aluminum next time.
Now, I'm not saying I have fantastic composites methods (I don't, which is why I made the AL one), nor am I saying that aluminum doesn't have it's place in fincans. CF and AL are both completely different beasts and just because a few composite fincans shred at M3.whatever doesn't mean it should be ruled out. Sorry for the slight rant, but I've put a lot of thought and research into this subject. It'd be good to have an actual discussion about it because of all the misconceptions about composites among the BALLS crowd. ...
I also made this because I'm a manufacturing engineering major and this is kind of what I do.
Ah, I missed that detail about the pins (along with several others in your CAD drawings. Thanks for filling it in.

I think the big issue with AL vs Composite is fin attachment. With a fin can like yours you can easily and very securely attach the fins using metal fasteners that require little technical expertise. But attaching composite fins using an adhesive (whether using a layup or not) requires far more expertise and careful research to materials. Not doubt that CF plate may be stronger than AL but it is also far harder to machine as well. At least in my experience many folks won't touch it due to the conductive nature of the CF and the worrisome effects of the CF dust and fibers. I can have just about any good CNC shop knock out a set of alum fins but not so with CF plate. And being able to just screw (or pin) them in and knowing they aren't coming off is a huge difference.

After reading through this thread:

https://www.rocketryforum.com/showt...rame-build-for-the-Loki-54-4000-Fins-Attached

especially the response to Bob Kretch's post (he made a series of incorrect assumptions as to the cause of the warped plated) made me realize I would never have the time or technical expertise to deal with really high end composite work. But alum is something that I can easily understand and handle, and more importantly, can have someone do the hard work of milling it.

The fact is that most of us don't have the expertise or technical knowledge to build a composite structure that holds up to Mach 3+ while many of us can do so with an alum fin can. And you are correct that a lot of that feeling comes from watching many flights at BALLS and seeing what works and what doesn't. My skills are far poorer than many of the other flyers at BALLS so I've decided that the odds that I can outbuild any of them using composites are slim to none.

Please don't misunderstand my comments - this is a great thread and has been very informative. I'm just one of those guys whose composite skills will never be up to the demands of a super high speed flight so alum looks like the way for me to go. And your technique holds a lot of promise for both simplicity and strength.

Again, thanks for taking the time to post the photos and write-up.

Tony
 
Ah, I missed that detail about the pins (along with several others in your CAD drawings. Thanks for filling it in.

I think the big issue with AL vs Composite is fin attachment. With a fin can like yours you can easily and very securely attach the fins using metal fasteners that require little technical expertise. But attaching composite fins using an adhesive (whether using a layup or not) requires far more expertise and careful research to materials. Not doubt that CF plate may be stronger than AL but it is also far harder to machine as well. At least in my experience many folks won't touch it due to the conductive nature of the CF and the worrisome effects of the CF dust and fibers. I can have just about any good CNC shop knock out a set of alum fins but not so with CF plate. And being able to just screw (or pin) them in and knowing they aren't coming off is a huge difference.

After reading through this thread:

https://www.rocketryforum.com/showt...rame-build-for-the-Loki-54-4000-Fins-Attached

especially the response to Bob Kretch's post (he made a series of incorrect assumptions as to the cause of the warped plated) made me realize I would never have the time or technical expertise to deal with really high end composite work. But alum is something that I can easily understand and handle, and more importantly, can have someone do the hard work of milling it.

The fact is that most of us don't have the expertise or technical knowledge to build a composite structure that holds up to Mach 3+ while many of us can do so with an alum fin can. And you are correct that a lot of that feeling comes from watching many flights at BALLS and seeing what works and what doesn't. My skills are far poorer than many of the other flyers at BALLS so I've decided that the odds that I can outbuild any of them using composites are slim to none.

Please don't misunderstand my comments - this is a great thread and has been very informative. I'm just one of those guys whose composite skills will never be up to the demands of a super high speed flight so alum looks like the way for me to go. And your technique holds a lot of promise for both simplicity and strength.

Again, thanks for taking the time to post the photos and write-up.

Tony

You bring up a good point about fin attachment. I do consider that the Achilles's Heel of composite fin cans. Almost ALL composite fins will fail right at the joint to the tube (unless you're doing really stupid like 1/32in carbon and massive fillets).

Now I'm really getting off on a tangent, but fin attachment is also something I've thought a lot about.

The standard epoxy fillet method is far from ideal, and epoxy alone doesn't have nearly the tensile and compressive strength of a composite. There isn't really a solution that's easy and efficient. You can increase the fillet size to an insane radius. You can try alternative methods such as attaching them with screws from the inside of the tube. You can slot the tube to add a little rotational resistance. All of those options come with trade-offs, and none I'm willing to take.
I've played with CF/epoxy hairball fillets, which are neither easy to deal with or particularly strong considering the random fiber orientation. A few years ago I did a few tests where the fillets were made completely of small layers of unidirectional CF fabric, staggered to create a fillet shape. An adhesive failure sent me back to the drawing board.
I believe tip to tip (T2T) reinforcement is an answer to a lot of these problems. A single piece of material that stretches from one side of the fins to the other both reinforces the fillets and adds stiffness to the fins. However, I dont think the full benefit of T2T reinforcement is realized in "hobby" style building.

I want to do some tests where the entire fincan is T2T. You would bond very thin (1/32) fin cores to a styrofoam or mylar wrapped mandrel. These would serve to give structure to the layup and serve as a guide while trimming the carbon. You would then essentially add layers and layers of carbon between each fin tip (like regular T2T) until you built up the thickness you want. Once it's cured it'll be one solid piece of material. The only way it could break is if the actual carbon fiber fails. This would eliminate the adhesive problem I described with most "hobby" methods.
It would probably have to be done with unidirectional PrePreg for the sake of precision and working time.

Anyway, this is a tangent but it's also something I've put a lot of thought into.

With regards to machining, I definitely think you're right. CF is substantially harder to machine using common methods. I've seen it done, but it requires weird(expensive) endmills and weird speeds and feeds. I machine mostly by sounds, surface finish and chip color, but all of those dont work with CF. There's a few unorthidox ways to machine carbon, but it's not as easy and throwing it on a Mill. A great thing about carbon is that the shape can be largely determined by layup schedule, so machining is kept to a bare minimum. On my Aeronaut project a year or so ago I tried creating a tapered profile on the fin by making a finco...you know what. I'll just leave a link to it. I essentially built my bevels into the layup and didn't really touch a sander.

My "Playin With Fire 2.0" Build.
Post 38.

Tony, I dont think I'm misunderstanding your comments. I'm relieved to finally be having a civil discussion about ROCKETS on the ROCKETRY forum. Most other people are arguing about who's GF is hotter.

I'm not going to tell people how to build their rockets, so If AL works for some people, then go at it. It's all just for fun.

Alex
 
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