Lost my first cardstock rocket today...a Cinco flown on a C6-5...

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SirNomad

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Well...my little boy and I were flying some card stock models, an Applewhite saucer on mini motors, a smaller Cinco on an A10-PT, and my bigger Cinco on an A8-3 then a C6-5... and my bigger Cinco got suck on the roof of my house! Unfortunately, lots of rain due tomorrow, so it probably won't survive. It almost makes me feel worse to loose a cardstock rocket than an inexpensive Estes kit, because there's more work in a lot of the card stock models.

Makes me want to find some D (or even E?) motors that are 18mm size, I know they're out there, but hazmat shipping would kill! I'm a single dad, and funds are always tight, but this has been such a great thing to do with my boy!
 
D motors don't require hazmat shipping and can be found in 18mm size. I got one (for the first time) over the summer. Aerotech has single-use D-10's and D-21's and a reloadable 18/20 case that fits D-13 and D-24 reloads. I don't think there are any other commercial options impulses above C in a 18mm case really. Oh, Klima motors from Europe have D-9's, but i understand they can be kind of expensive.
 
Aerotech makes single use and reloadable D motors in 18mm, neither of which require hazmat shipping.

The SU motors have gotten kinda pricey - 3/$20 at Aerotech (shipping is $9, free over $250), or $12 each at Apogee. At 3/$17, the reloads would take you 30+ launches to recover the cost of the casing. You might be able to find better prices if you shop around (balsamachining.com has reloads at 3/$14.40, plus $6 shipping). Bonus is that if you order from BalsaMachining you can buy all the parts you want to scratch-build whatever you can design!

For saving $ on black powder motors, I usually buy from AC supply. 40% off list. To get the $100 minimum for free shipping, I will put in a joint order with one or two other folks.

Since you are building cardstock, and can modify things a bit, Quest sells a 20mm D5-P (plugged) motor for $5.09 plus shipping. Plugged motors are perfect for tumble-recovery odd-rocs, and these have a 4.0s burn time!

Planning to roll some cardstock body tubes myself this weekend, in preparation for the spring contest season.
 
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The regular "Super Cinco" can be built for either 18 or 24mm.

I built mine for 24mm and it flies pretty good on Estes D12-0 and great on Aerotech F24 reloads. I just leave out the ejection charge and put a ball of Estes wadding in the ejection well and tape over it.

None of the reloads for the 24/40 Hobbyline case requires Hazmat shipping.
 
Mine eventually came down, unfortunately into its life a little rain did fall...but since I used Elmer's wood glue, it stayed together and suffered only minor warping, so I intend to fly it again! :) I'm going to hit it with a little spray paint just in case it spends another rain shower on the roof. LOL We have 4 assorted saucers that we've flown so far, two on 13mm engines, two on 18mms. Love the card stock! We also put together a fliskits nebula, which unfortunately ended up landing too hard on the fins and crumpling them.
 
Well...my little boy and I were flying some card stock models, an Applewhite saucer on mini motors, a smaller Cinco on an A10-PT, and my bigger Cinco on an A8-3 then a C6-5... and my bigger Cinco got suck on the roof of my house! Unfortunately, lots of rain due tomorrow, so it probably won't survive. It almost makes me feel worse to loose a cardstock rocket than an inexpensive Estes kit, because there's more work in a lot of the card stock models.

Makes me want to find some D (or even E?) motors that are 18mm size, I know they're out there, but hazmat shipping would kill! I'm a single dad, and funds are always tight, but this has been such a great thing to do with my boy!

See, now I am just the opposite - I would rather lose a paper rocket than a kit rocket. Two reasons for this: first, I feel like I have less time in a paper model than it a kit model. The primary reason for this is that I print the model in ful color, so The time I spend on making the tubes and cones from flat paper is more than offset by not having to prime and paint the model. Tha second reason is that if I lose/destroy a kit model, I have to buy a new one and build/prime/paint its replacement. I just have to print a new paper model, build it and I'm good! I feel that paper models are so economical (not to mention light weight) that a lot of contest models I build are paper. If I hand one in a tree or thermal it away, it is easy enough to build a quick replacement.
 
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