Cosmic Interceptor Build Thread

Greetings TRfers!

This is my first post here; I am a recent BAR, having entered a hobby shop here in NH during the summer for a non-rocketry related reason and walking out with a cart-full of rocketry stuff. I started with a few skill level 1 and 2s, and have successfully launched the multitude of them (one is still in the trees- blasted random gust of wind!). My most recent project was the Extreme 12, of which I will be waiting to launch- it came out great and I highly recommend the kit.

I have just opened up the fantastic looking rocket kit "Cosmic Interceptor" (twas on sale not so long ago, figured a skill level 4 was in order prior to starting on the other rocket kit awaiting in the background- Estes Partizon.) In between building and launching, I have been an avid reader of the forum, and thank you all for many pro-tips already. There are already a couple Cosmic Interceptor build threads, but I plan to edit the build just by a little bit.

Will post the start of it whence I return home- looking forward to this build and to reception of any idea you all may have!

d11rok said:

Greetings TRfers!

This is my first post here; I am a recent BAR, having entered a hobby shop here in NH during the summer for a non-rocketry related reason and walking out with a cart-full of rocketry stuff.

Click to expand...

Welcome back.
We look forward to your progress....

Sub'ing. I picked up a couple of these in the Estes sale but haven't opened one yet. I'm curious to see what's involved.

Prior to starting, make life easier and make yourself a copy of page 3.

The first part to tackle is the engine mount. It involves 2 tubes (the actual engine mount & the engine mount coupler), as well as 8 cardboard "engine fins" (for lack of better phrasing; these are part H). The initial steps involve installing the engine hook and engine hook retainer ring to the engine mount tube, and I wont bore you all with such, as I imagine if you picked up a level 4, then this series of steps is well rehearsed.

What's different about this kit is installing the "engine fins". There is a notch that fits nearly perfectly over the engine hook retainer ring with minimal wiggle room. To assure near perfect alignment of all 8 engine fins, when using wood glue to attach these to the engine mount tube, I pressed the aft-most part of the engine fin against the retainer ring.

Here is the first step where I deviate a bit: the instructions call for the builder to glue one engine fin, then put on the engine mount coupler against it before gluing the remainder of the engine fins. However, this would lead to the possibility of 2 variables that may interfere with excellent alignment of the engine fins: 1) gluing the coupler to the fin necessitates all the pressure to be placed onto the fin, leading to either X-axis displacement or Y-axis displacement and 2) if the coupler is not perfectly perpendicular to the engine mount tube, the top of the subsequent engine fins may be at different heights, leading to skewed engine fins. Thus, I chose to wood glue engine fins first, doing 4 at a time and applying "mini-fillets" after the preliminary glue had dried enough.

The picture demonstrates the first half of the fins, drying on a candlestick (for 18mm and 24mm, this drying situation works quite well, btw!)


The engine mount coupler is assembled with 3 pieces- the tube and 2 centering rings. After some initial confusion, and referencing a previous build on this kit, the centering rings are glued on top of the body tube, not inside. Said previous thread ingeniously used painters tape to make a frame for the centering rings to be guided on top of the tube with. However, I was met with resistance from that tape, and thus put a dollop of wood glue on a paper towel, and with the centering ring held at an angle of about 45 degrees, ran it quickly through the glue and leading to an adequate amount of glue on the rim of the centering ring. This was then simply dropped in place, with the excess guided over the edge to seal each disc onto the tube. After that dried, a dowel was used to apply an internal fillet for additional support.


Once both parts of the engine tube were completely dried, a smear of wood glue was placed onto the front-most free end of each engine fin (other builds place the glue on the centering ring- I thought this may lead to excess glue on the ring), and the coupler assembly was dropped onto the engine fin assembly. Fillets were placed at the assemblies' interface. Close up of complete Engine Assembly:

I agree with the instructions and others for leaving the ring (part G) off for now, awaiting paint.

Next will be playing with balsa

The pieces of balsa that get first attention are with pieces that have slats in the middle; these pieces provide the body of the wing. The slats are where piece 'S' goes. I am currently undecided whether to paper these fins or not (would likely go with labeling, as the wing shape is quite complex and thus copy paper would take quite a long time).

EDIT: Do not throw away any scraps of balsa wood, as you will likely need it in a future portion of the build (see post #15 below)

There are small/narrow pieces on these balsa sheets that likely will provide some degree of structural fortification (and aesthetics), which papering would also be quite difficult to do. These pieces should be smooth anyways, and thus I will go ahead and Elmer's wood fill these sheets. I have not caught a build thread that does this, but I decided to leave the pieces within the balsa sheet and apply the wood filler then, which I felt greatly facilitated sanding, reapplying wood filler, re-sanding, etc. I did first xacto knife the attachments of the pieces to the sheet, in case the wood-filler hid the outline after this process. After applying the filler on both sides, I sandwiched the balsa sheets between 2 pieces of wax paper, placed books on top, and awaited their drying (about 10 minutes is quite safe, methinks).

Piece on left is stock, piece on right is after first run of sanding with 150 grit.


Similarly, the body tubes were sanded with 150 grit to remove glossine, wood-filler applied, then sanded again with 150 grit sandpaper. Below is after sanding

Edit: In the background is the chica's 'Big Daddy', awaiting more external fillets to fins/launch lug, then painting. She'll be working on the Flutter-By next; stay tuned for possible build thread on such from the better half

Tomorrow will continue to work on all balsa sheets with wood-filler, sanding, etc...in addition to applying a couple more layers/finer sanding to the body tubes. I foresee a slight modification on the assembly of the wings incoming.

BT's received another round of elmer's wood fill and sanded with 400 grit, achieving a quite smooth finish. These were then coupled together.

Balsa sheet on the right in the picture above received another round of elmer's wood fill, and also sanded with 400 grit. Being now very smooth, this was cut from the balsa sheet. I'm now wondering if I should just omit filling the remaining balsa parts and just moving to label paper skinning. Might be interesting to examine the difference between the two wings (if one exists) after label paper applied- does elmer's wood fill prior to such make a difference? Any thoughts/experience with that move?

Also, wondering how everyone's Black Friday sales are going along?! Mine thus far:
1) Rocketry Warehouse: Mouse 38 (christmas gift for the chica- she'll likely make the wings look like ears and put googly eyes near the aft), mongoose 29 for me
2) Mad Cow: Phoenix 4" with engine retainers- will plan to make this my L1 cert sometime in 2016 (many other projects to go prior to then to get practice in)
3) Wildman Rocketry tomorrow: ??? we shall see!!!

MadCow:
4" PAC-3 with 54mm MMT upgrade
4" Super Batray

Rocketry Warehouse:
100' 1/4" Tubular Kevlar

Made out like a bandit I'd say.

Nice, I'm building a Cosmic Interceptor at the moment too. I'm just a touch ahead of you, looking forward to seeing your progress. Some of the parts could use painting before assembly if you follow the face card.

Crash,
Fantastic! Please feel free to post your progress on this thread too. I think the main benefit of build threads are for soon-in-the-future builders to see what's ahead of them, and two builds in the same forum would certainly consolidate the helpfulness.

I got me some label paper today. Will be launching some LPR today, then tonight plan on papering the balsa and perhaps paint the BT.

Running into some trouble with just using wood glue for the fin assembly- will post a picture of a possible work-around, but would be interested to know how you did it

Welcome back to rocketry! Beware, the BAR big bites hard...

Great build thread so far, I really like these exotic designs Estes is creating. I'm sure I'll have to pick one of these up eventually.

-Paul

So indeed, in line with my aforementioned experiment, have only wood-filled one wing assembly. Label papering was done with Avery 8.5x11 inch shipping labels. The 3 pieces that comprise the flat part of each wing received label paper. The way I did this was to remove the backing sheet, place all the pieces flat on the label, pressing down firmly, then cutting approximately with the Xacto knife. the process was duplicated for the other side. After that, trimming of the excess label paper from all pieces was performed using just the Xacto knife. I tried sanding one piece at the edge, but found it led to more paper damage than it provided benefit, and thus made sure the Xacto knife cut each piece right against the wood, as in the pictures:

On the pieces that have the cut-out (2nd picture above), it is reasonable to make the hole after papering each side instead of trying to find it after both sides are papered.

Flat wing assembly pieces, post label papering (note the pieces with 2 cut-outs in the middle- that is the after portion of the wing after 2 pieces have been glued together. would highly recommend doing so prior to papering):


Next, I ensured that the piece that fits into the wing cut-outs was of proper fit, an sanded as needed. Note, I did not bother to paper this one, as it would either force me to increase the size of the cutouts a bit to fit the paper (which would not be a huge endeavor, but I wanted to conserve the snug stock fit as was already present), and I do not see a landing scenario where this piece would be first contact with the ground. After some sanding of the bottom of this piece, I dry fitted it into the 3 slots. When I was assured that the fit was solid, I took out the part that goes into the forward-most cut-out, leaving the after-most 2 cut-outs filled with this piece. I then applied wood glue to the joint between the sections, put the forward-most part back into its respective cut-out, assured alignment at the joint, and put it on its side for drying:


Going to wood-fill the seam between the coupled body tubes, perhaps solidify the new wing joints with wood glue, and get to work on the wing ends that go perpendicular to this section of wing.

EDIT: there is one more piece of the wing assembly- its the small thin rhomboid shaped piece that attached to the forward most section (in the picture above, it will attach on the far right-hand side). I plan to attach this after I know the pieces are even and lie flat (if they don't, will sand as needed)

Interesting build.

Did you seal the edges of the papered fins with any sort of glue?

Thanks neil
I will be going back after the wings' glue is dried with an ever so thin smear of wood glue at all edges.

Building in the AM today...

First, I attached the aforementioned small part to the forward most part of the wing assembly. While that was drying, I cut out the 2 pieces that comprise the sidemost portion of the wing (the part that goes up and down, perpendicular to the current assembly). After gluing them at their seams (highly recommend the double-glue method for initial attachment, as described heavily elsewhere throughout the forum), then applying a thin layer of wood glue on top of the seam (for both added stability and for smoothness), then sanding...


I label papered the above assembly, as well as the bits that will be glued to the outside. Of note, the bits that go on the outside only need one side label papered, as the other will only see the surface of the above wing part.


I will not glue these pieces together yet, as I'll prefer to apply glue to the other side of the notch once the wing assembly is inserted in it first.

The shaft with the notches (which was previously dry fit into the other potion of the wing assembly) was glued in place, with glue to the side portions of the notches, mini-fillets, and lastly to the underside.

Next up- grab the very thin pieces that go onto the underside of the wing assembly...there is an error by Estes in these pre-cut portions, and will go in more detail in next post.

After placing the thin piece onto the underside of the wing assembly, it is noted that there is a small gap between it and the aft portion of the wing:


Now, we are intelligent people, so there is a rather easy fix. Hopefully, you did not through away any of the balsa wood scraps yet (will edit an above post). Find this piece that contains uncut pieces that will become both center fins:


Cut out the thin portion in the center; specifically, the portion of that is being pointed to by the Xacto knife in the picture below:



A small piece was cut grossly to shape, then sanded gradually until a snug fit was achieved between the thin piece and the aft portion of the wing. Once assured of fit, glue was applied to contact faces, and placed back into the gap:


Repeat for the other side.

A couple hurdles to jump over before more progress can be made:

1) At this point, I would like to start painting the wing assembly (black, similar to the stock scheme). however, the past couple days here in NH have been rather rainy and/or very busy.

2) On the body tube, the whole draw-a-line-down-the-doorframe approach was not faring well, methinks because the hinges are in the way, leading to crooked lines. note, the wing assembly span on the body tube goes past the coupler, thus would not be able to make the line on just one body tube.to home depot tomorrow for a metal angle.

3) Once the lines are down, I will be taping off the area that is described where the fins will be glued to the BT, plus about another 5mm or so on each side. This will be done to improve the bond between the wings and bt (cardboard > paint). similarly, i will leave about 5mm at each glue end of the fins. after glue dries and fillets are placed, I can easily go back and touch up the fillets with either white or black paint (hand painted). This build has many pieces/crevices/gyri, and as much masking I can prevent doing, the better I think the overall painting will be.

I was thinking about trying this kit soon. Looks like a fun challenge, lots of detail.

I look forward to your updates!

Nice build thread.

I just ordered a couple of Cosmic Interceptors from the Estes sale. I plan on doing one of them as a Vindicator E, finished with the excellent Vindicator E wraps John Pursley sells on Ebay.

Cabernut and Tab, Thanks much for your words and thoughts! Cabernut, it is indeed a challenge, many small parts but will look sweet ascending about 500'. Tab, that looks to be a fantastic looking rocket, and certainly has many resemblances to the interceptor. i wish you best of luck with them!

I was finally able to make some progress (albeit, not much...hectic work schedule/night shift). I finally got a metal angle from Home Depot, and was able to make the lines on the BT. solid lines are where the wings will be, dashed lines (about 3mm from each solid line) are areas that will be reached via fillet. Why so particular about the fillets? Because the wings feel heavy to me, and thus as aforementioned I would like to have the glue fillets only touching cardboard instead of paint.

I then measured the distance between the 2 dashed lines, marked where the fins will actually be glued to, and applied painter's tape to those areas.

Finally on a nice windless sunny day here, I was able to go outside to paint the wing assembly. To keep only the cardboard-cardboard glue motif going, I painter's taped the glue edges of the wings...


Now how to paint the wings before they're attached? The painter's tape is making a nice flexible tab. I used this to tape the wing assemblies to a wooden rod:

And I proceeded to paint the wings black (will take and upload those pictures as soon as I put some clear finish on them). Some things that I would have done differently given my current build trajectory will be shared with that post.

The chica was using the other wooden dowel to finish her Big Daddy, which is her first skill level 2 build (came out really nice - take a look!


its awaiting decals), and thus the painting of the BT is delayed. I'm thinking white top/metallic aluminum bottom.

Finally able to make headway- twas a busy holiday season, hope everyone had a great one!

My build has been going well, slowly but surely. But lets pick up where we left off...

After painting the wings black on the homemade apparatus, this is what it looks like- again, note the glue margins are sans paint. This is done on purpose.


As the rest of the pieces were being painted, I started the fancy engine mount. Nothing varied compared to the directions; put a sheet of wax paper on top of the body tube, then dry assemble on the body tube itself, then apply drops of CA to the intersections, as below.

Second picture is of all the other pieces being painted. I decided to go with all black wings aside from the accessory pieces that are glued on to the perpendicular wing bits. Those will be silver, along with the fancy engine assembly and internal strakes. Also of note- to the cardboard pieces (the engine mount ring and the engine cover (the leftmost pieces in the second picture below), I applied clear gloss FIRST, which is the stage you see them at below. Also note, the internal strakes for the most part will be under the engine cover, thus you can use tape to hold it down while painting it.


As for things I would have done differently:
1) less wood glue to reinforce the Avery papering of the wing assembly. With the least bit of glue that strays onto a surface of the wing, the paint highlights it, leading to just a bit of lesser aesthetics. No big deal, though.
2) Take more time spray painting. On some of the pieces, I hurried a 2nd coat on rather hastily, leading to some dimpling of the paint. This is especially the case since I am using Rustoleum Paint and Primer combined. I think the cold temperature outside also had some negative effects on the spraying and keeping of the paint. With additional shaking and more time between coats, not only was the dimpling corrected, but not seen down the road.
3) In the next post, there will be pictures of the assembly going together. Where the wing supports meet the wing there is a noticeable change in topography which could have been avoided with additional wood filler prior to painting. Nonetheless, again it turns out to not be too aesthetically decreasing, especially with application of decals.

Excellent! I just finished the engine mount on mine. It seems there are plenty of opportunities to get creative with the paint job on this kit. I'm curious though, why apply clear gloss first?

The next big step is to attach the flat part of the wing assembly to the body tube. This is done with the typical double-glue method. Again note the paint free portions, which received wood glue fillets. I recommend gluing the wing support beams to the wing assembly prior to the wing assembly to body tube gluing. However, would leave off the perpendicular wing pieces at this point, as they present much weight and torque which would make alignment of the wings more challenging that it already is.



After multiple fillets and letting 24h pass, painter's tape was used to mask off the body tube, and with a foam brush, black paint was applied to the unpainted surface. This was the first time I've seen or done this, and I must say it turned out better than expected aesthetically, whilst knowing that the glue contact is solid surface to solid surface. This process was repeated throughout the wing assembly to body tube intersections where needed, as well as the caudal wing.

The small reinforcement pieces were then positioned. In order to have a good slope of these against the body tube, waxpaper and then sandpaper was positioned over the body tube, and parallel sanding to the body tube was done at that edge of these reinforcement pieces. I likely put more pressure while sanding on the leading edge, thus the unevenness of the supports. Again, to me not a big deal. The part of these supports that goes into the support beams needed a bit of sanding prior to placement, but not much. After putting them in position, the slanted part of this piece that connects to the body tube received a bit of glue, as did the part that enters the reinforcement beam. Glue then was applied to the opposite side of the reinforcement beam

Cabernut said:

Excellent! I just finished the engine mount on mine. It seems there are plenty of opportunities to get creative with the paint job on this kit. I'm curious though, why apply clear gloss first?

Click to expand...

Cabernut,
Great to hear about your process! I'll have to update to where I am at the current moment when I come back from dinner, then!

You raise a good question. I applied the clear gloss first to those pieces because there are still small seams in these pieces that I did not think warranted full wood filler work, and the clear gloss filled them well (I only later, ie: today, learned about filling primer haha). Afterward, the white paint (again Rustoleum prime and paint in one) coated it nicely and actually shinier than the body tube. Only needed one coat of the white.

Edit: forgot to mention, the gloss seems to harden the cardboard more so than the paint/primer, which is what I desired prior to gluing to the body tube for this piece

Next, the perpendicular wing sections were glued to the wing assembly. I recommend the following for this step:
1) dry fit before gluing
2) Glue the pieces that are gray in the photo below to the piece that is glued to the current wing assembly.
3) Place the glue in the perpendicular parts' divot, as well as on the wing assembly's parts that will make contact with this new piece, aside from the bit that will go into the new piece's divot. with all the glue in that divot, enough will erupt from it, and you can use a q-tip to form a nice spot fillet.
4) You'll note that again i'm using the trusty candlestick to hold the rocket upright until the glue dries. before it does, it keeps a fair amount of degrees of freedom, and can thus end up a bit wonky on alignment



Then finally, the engine mount all the way back from post #4, after being painted after of the cylinder, was glued into place.

The next piece to be glued on was the engine cover. This is the part that was cut out from the other body tube, which will go over what I'm calling the engine strakes (described in post #20). I had left the wing assembly and body tube edges where this piece would be glued on (the front aft of the rocket) bare in keeping with the maximal non-paint gluing throughout the project. Although I was sure I cut quite near to the outline provided, when I started gluing this piece in place, one side was off and left quite a gap (so it must have not been the best cut after all, haha). Ah well, it happens.

To solve this dilemma, all I wanted was something to place a nice hefty wood glue fillet to to smooth it out. I cut the margin end of an index card, folded it in half, and slid it slowly into the crevice. Once in place, a couple drops of CA held it in place (I believe some of the CA leaked out onto the wing, which is the white discoloration of the black wing you see in the picture below). Wood glue fillet did fill it nicely enough (finished picture in later posts).

I should mention that I elected to glue the engine strakes onto the underside of the engine cover prior to gluing on the engine cover. This allowed for more glue to be put on the strakes that make contact with the body tube, to increase the bonding of this piece in general.



On top of the engine cover goes another fin. Because there was no edge on this piece that was without paint, I elected to glue this one on using glue rivets. The wing had glue placed on it, then was positioned to the center of the engine cover. After drying, the xacto knife was used to make small holes along this glue line. The wing and this line a small amount of glue, and was positioned in place. Excess glue that crept out from the sides was used as a quick fillet. This was enough to hold quite secure, as tested by accidental dropping of the rocket onto that fin.



And a picture of the body of the rocket, complete without decals or finishing paint

Finally to catch up to current day progress:
I have placed the decals as I see fit. Because I went with all black for the wing assembly, the large lettering went onto the white engine cover instead, which methinks looks good. You can see my lack of symmetry in the "Cosmic Interceptor" parallel decals in the photos; but I posit that the picture is a bit off centre- the actual look of them in person is still not perfect, but better than what you would take away from the photos alone. I chose not to use all of the provided decals, and will likely use the leftovers in some build down the line- this kit does provide you with a boatload of decals, which I found quite nerve-wracking to place (I'm much more a fan of the self-stick decals)

The intersections that either had a glue fillet on top of paint or had "serious surgery" got more paint with my aforementioned "Tape and foam brush" painting process, and as you'll see especially at the intersection of the wing assembly to engine cover (compare to 2nd photo in post #24), is much better now



A couple sans nose cone photos:



So what of the nose cone? I placed a couple of the decals on it, planning to use black paint on some of the other places on it, such as making windows, as well as the nose cone tip. Right now, it is hanging in my office/spare bedroom after being glossed x 1. The decal you see at the top of the picture on the nosecone is a bit higher than the stock photos of the rocket.



Next on the list:
1) Gloss the rocket
2) apply black paint to select areas of the nose cone
3) apply likely silver paint to the very tip of the nose cone
4) gloss the nose cone
5) typical parachute stuff

I will post again with completed nose cone and eventually a movie of the first flight!

I'll sign off for today with another picture from the archives of the Ms.' work- an Estes Flutter-by with a glitter paint scheme :eyeroll: Just needs a couple gloss-overs and it will also be ready for launch!

I had a short day of work today, long day tomorrow, which means much rocketry in the middle!

Since last post, I had applied gloss coat to the main body of the rocket, with the nose cone work lingering.

Fast forward to today, where there was much taping, fine cutting, fine painting on the nose cone. This is on top of the state the nose cone was previously in at post #25, picture 4. Again, that was merely a gloss coat applied over the provided decals.

The theme I had in my head while painting the nose cone was black to show windows, intakes, and hatches. Silver would be unloading doors, and red would be "lights". the cone tip would be black and silver. I won't provide a lengthy discussion nor illustrations of most of the cone paint, as it was nothing but taping, foam brush painting, Xacto knifing off excess, and repeat.

The two parts on the nosecone that provided the most painting complexity were the "intake" notches on the front, and the "lights" on the underside. You'll see what I mean by these parts through pictures.

First up was the "lights" on the underside. Taping these would have been not only very time consuming and inefficient, but would also likely stray away from the nice shape of it. Fortunately, these "lights" are valleys in the nose cone. So, I took some painters tape, pressed down very hard onto these valleys until their shape was discernible. I then took the xacto knife and carefully cut the teardrop shape from the tape, enabling me to place the red paint exactly where I wanted. In the picture below is the outline of these teardrop shapes that will become the red "lights"


Next up was the "intakes", which when done will be black. Again, taping would be a disaster; although not impossible, just very time consuming and likely would have many paint leaks across the rather thin strips of tape that would be necessitated by the strategy. I take myself as having a pretty steady hand, and thus figured I could put the paint directly on the intakes without tape- I would just have to find the right tool, as foam brushes (and linear paint brushes, for that matter), would incorporate too much movement that even a steady-ish hand would lead to non-straight intakes. Fortunately, I had just completed building an Estes Shuttle Express, which had a very thick piece of cardboard that served as a protector of its foam pieces. I had kept it for a rainy day, and this seemed to fit the bill. I measured the length of the intakes, and cut the card into a "brush", as below.


Dipping the business end into a pool of the paint, I merely blotted the paint onto the intake marking in one or at most 2 tries, depending on how much paint the tool picked up. Were the intakes straight as an arrow without drip? Certainly not, but methinks they were straighter than what I would otherwise have been able to do

Below are the finished sides of the nosecone, the first picture is of the underside of the nosecone with the teardrop shaped "lights" (in red). The second picture is of the topside of the nosecone, with the intakes/vents (black lines in 2 vertical groups of 4). Again, there is light and a slight angle cast on the pictures, making it seem slightly off than it actually is.




That was the last of the major obstacles to completion- just have to gloss coat the nose cone to protect all the new paint (will likely be Monday) and do all the parachute stuff. Next post will take a picture(s) of the completed entity, and put some links to other Cosmic Interceptor build threads I referenced throughout the build.

D11rock - this thing looks GREAT! I wish I'd had to forsight to using label paper. It was a real pain filling with wood filler and sanding until those fins came smooth! Yours is a work of art!

That looks great, btw I always treated the ports on the bottom as machine gun ports since it is an interceptor,and used black but red lights are good too. One other thing you can consider, I used a fine line sharpie in all of the panel lines in the cone, it really set them off nicely and was quick/easy to do. Could use black or silver depending on how much you want to set them off.

Frank

Very nice

Burk,
Thank you for those points! Perhaps I'll consider the red bits lasers. The silver doors I imagine open to launch a heavy duty missile or 5...at least, in my mind
That fine Sharpie idea is a sharp, fine idea! I may have to give it a whirl, especially on the intakes, and perhaps the silver doors.

Kcobb and Les, thank you for your nice comments!