Painting fiberglass

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T34zac

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I hate to ask, but I've had little luck with the search bar on this topic. How do you paint fiberglass to get a nice looking paint job. Usually when I paint I end up with a paint job that looks a little half assed chips very easily. I look at other rockets here on the forum (and the clubs I fly with) and I see all these nice paint jobs that last. Any and all help is appreciated.

On a side note, I use rustoleum spray paint as its easily available from the Home Depot down the street.
 
I have had good luck painting fiberglass with simple priming and sanding. Make each layer slower than you want to, and make more layers than you think you should. Lightly dry or wet sand, especially between primer but maybe between color layers too. Clear coat and it should look nice!

I skip adhesion promoter, love it on plastic noses and fins but heard some brands do not play well with some types of fiberglass.
 
I just don't have the space or funds available for automotive paints. I'll give this a look when I get home today.
That video includes some fiberglass finishing tips such was washing off the pieces and wet sanding, so it may be worth a watch.
 
That video includes some fiberglass finishing tips such was washing off the pieces and wet sanding, so it may be worth a watch.

Yeah I gave both a watch. Definitely has a lot of info and should help a lot. I have a couple of guinea pig tubes before I move onto my rockets so I should be able to get the strategy down at some point.
 
My strategy, which I recently adjusted and got quite nice results, is as follows: after construction, use bondo filler putty wherever necessary, yada yada, and get the surface really smooth. sand it down, and then sand it down some more, reapply as required. Then I go with a bunch of coats of Rustoleum grey auto body primer. It goes on pretty heavy, and covers anything. Sand that down, getting everything really smooth, and then hit it again with primer. And again, and again, until the tube has the final surface smoothness, not glossiness but smoothness. That way, when you put on the color coat(s) you aren't filling anything, just recolering a surface. Then hit it with the colors, going fairly lightly. Wait PLENTY of time for it to dry, and then sand lightly with 400 grit, maybe 220 if it needs more work, just to smooth any minor imperfections out and take the shine off to promote adhesion of the next layer and prevent runs. Once you're completely sure it's dry, hit it with as many further color coats as necessary, using a tack cloth before painting, and doing light 400 grit sanding between coats. This should give a pretty nice surface finish, and make sure you stick with the same brand throughout, and even the same system throughout to make sure the solvents play nice. I use Rustoleum, not the 2X. I've found that to work poorly IMHO.

Nate
 
The painting process for fiberglass rockets is the same as for cardboard/plywood rockets. The only difference for me is that fiberglass is a lot smoother and there are no spirals to fill, so there is no need for wood filler or Bondo before primer.
 
My strategy, which I recently adjusted and got quite nice results, is as follows: after construction, use bondo filler putty wherever necessary, yada yada, and get the surface really smooth. sand it down, and then sand it down some more, reapply as required. Then I go with a bunch of coats of Rustoleum grey auto body primer. It goes on pretty heavy, and covers anything. Sand that down, getting everything really smooth, and then hit it again with primer. And again, and again, until the tube has the final surface smoothness, not glossiness but smoothness. That way, when you put on the color coat(s) you aren't filling anything, just recolering a surface. Then hit it with the colors, going fairly lightly. Wait PLENTY of time for it to dry, and then sand lightly with 400 grit, maybe 220 if it needs more work, just to smooth any minor imperfections out and take the shine off to promote adhesion of the next layer and prevent runs. Once you're completely sure it's dry, hit it with as many further color coats as necessary, using a tack cloth before painting, and doing light 400 grit sanding between coats. This should give a pretty nice surface finish, and make sure you stick with the same brand throughout, and even the same system throughout to make sure the solvents play nice. I use Rustoleum, not the 2X. I've found that to work poorly IMHO.

Nate

Thanks for the info. What grit sandpaper do you use for the primer coats?
 
Generally I use something light, 220 and/or 400. If I had a problem priming, a bad spot, etc. I'll go from 100 or 150 to 220, and then down to 400. Generally whatever I need to get it nice and smooth.

Nate
 
My finishes look a lot better in pictures than 6" from my face ... If it looks good from 100ft away, then no one will notice chips in the paint as it leaves the rail at 100mph...
 
My finishes look a lot better in pictures than 6" from my face ... If it looks good from 100ft away, then no one will notice chips in the paint as it leaves the rail at 100mph...

Yeah that's true. But want it to look good while it sits in the ground waiting for to spend money on motors
 
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