I guess it's time to jump in. I've never posted a build, so this is trial by fire. Several months ago, I decided to start my own "Level 5 Club", and build several Skill Level 5 kits, just to challenge my building skills. I've been a BAR for about 20 years, so I'm just looking for something a different.
I've already done several steps on the kit, taking photos as I went, so I can share how I'm approaching the build.
Let's get started. Here is the kit cover--
As I said before, I've already started the kit, so it's wouldn't take so long to complete the online documentation. I know how impatient you all can be
. Here are some of the parts, laid out. Notice that the main fins are covered with typing paper.
As with most men, I believe that directions are not written for me. So I don't follow them--until I am ready. Through the years, I've learned to prepare the tubing, fins and nosecone as much as possible before the build ever gets underway. I made the decision to cover everything but the two surface-mount fins with typing paper. This will remove the balsa grain and strengthen the fins. I can't remember the last time I broke off a fin that I've reinforced this way. It's a nice technique--stronger, no woodgrain to fill. What's not to love about that?
But before I can cover the top fin, I have to take care of a couple of fin defects. This image shows them-they are gouged areas on both ends of the fin:
We have to fill those, or the dip just gets transferred to the surface of the typing paper. My approach for these small spots is to overfill them with Titebond glue, then sand the fin surface level. The glue is harder than the balsa, so once filled, they will stay level even if they take a hit or two.
Here I am putting an ample supply of Titebond in the low spots:
And here is the fin once the glue is dry, and I've sanded it on a sheet of 220 grit sandpaper. Oh, I've also rounded the leading and trailing fin edges with 220 grit sandpaper:
Yes, I know. Almost brings tears of joy to your eyes.
Now, let's put a typing paper skin on the top fin--this is exactly the technique used on the two large fins as well.
First, we need to cut out typing paper for both sides of the fin. Trace around the fin and cut out the tracings:
Next, we put a thin film of Titebond glue on both sides of the fin and stick the typing paper on the fin. You have to wet both sides at once, or you will get warped fins--at least that is what I am told:
Should look something like this:
Now we need to put some pressure on these fins to assure a good bond between paper and balsa wood. I've made a small (12x12 inch press for this purpose. Before the press, I used two 12x12 in pieces of 3/4" plywood and clamped them with 4-5 wood clamps. The first thing you need is a layer of wax paper on each side of the fin, to prevent stray glue from sticking to unwanted areas--like your press.
It helps if you can put some foam in there as well--makes the paper wrap tightly around the fin edges. My press has some 1/4" foam glued to both sides of the press. The foam does not need to be glued-you can just lay it on each side of the fin before pressing it.
(Time for next post)
I've already done several steps on the kit, taking photos as I went, so I can share how I'm approaching the build.
Let's get started. Here is the kit cover--
As I said before, I've already started the kit, so it's wouldn't take so long to complete the online documentation. I know how impatient you all can be
. Here are some of the parts, laid out. Notice that the main fins are covered with typing paper.As with most men, I believe that directions are not written for me. So I don't follow them--until I am ready. Through the years, I've learned to prepare the tubing, fins and nosecone as much as possible before the build ever gets underway. I made the decision to cover everything but the two surface-mount fins with typing paper. This will remove the balsa grain and strengthen the fins. I can't remember the last time I broke off a fin that I've reinforced this way. It's a nice technique--stronger, no woodgrain to fill. What's not to love about that?
But before I can cover the top fin, I have to take care of a couple of fin defects. This image shows them-they are gouged areas on both ends of the fin:
We have to fill those, or the dip just gets transferred to the surface of the typing paper. My approach for these small spots is to overfill them with Titebond glue, then sand the fin surface level. The glue is harder than the balsa, so once filled, they will stay level even if they take a hit or two.
Here I am putting an ample supply of Titebond in the low spots:
And here is the fin once the glue is dry, and I've sanded it on a sheet of 220 grit sandpaper. Oh, I've also rounded the leading and trailing fin edges with 220 grit sandpaper:
Yes, I know. Almost brings tears of joy to your eyes.
Now, let's put a typing paper skin on the top fin--this is exactly the technique used on the two large fins as well.
First, we need to cut out typing paper for both sides of the fin. Trace around the fin and cut out the tracings:
Next, we put a thin film of Titebond glue on both sides of the fin and stick the typing paper on the fin. You have to wet both sides at once, or you will get warped fins--at least that is what I am told:
Should look something like this:
Now we need to put some pressure on these fins to assure a good bond between paper and balsa wood. I've made a small (12x12 inch press for this purpose. Before the press, I used two 12x12 in pieces of 3/4" plywood and clamped them with 4-5 wood clamps. The first thing you need is a layer of wax paper on each side of the fin, to prevent stray glue from sticking to unwanted areas--like your press.
It helps if you can put some foam in there as well--makes the paper wrap tightly around the fin edges. My press has some 1/4" foam glued to both sides of the press. The foam does not need to be glued-you can just lay it on each side of the fin before pressing it.
(Time for next post)
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