I used to stupidly assume that the numbers on Tightbond indicate more advanced and therefore better. Y'know, "Ooh, there's a Tightbond III; it must be better than that old II." I recently read the application information on the backs of Tightbond Original, II, and III bottles, and decided to go with original. But really, Original, II, III, Elmers white, Elmers yellow, Gorilla yellow: they're not all the same but they're all good enough.
I've never had a grabbing problem with any of the above except when I was trying to insert a coupler way down a tube to reinforce it, which I should have known wouldn't work. As someone noted earlier, knowing your exact destination is critical; it will grab the moment you stop moving, so don't stop until you're right on the line and you'll be fine. If that's a problem then use something less grabby, like (Gorilla or other brand) PU glue or epoxy.
I have trouble with fin attachment when I can't use a jig. I have poor vision and worse hand-eye coordination, so it's very hard to put them on straight. You might think I need a glue with plenty of adjustment time, but actually I need just the opposite. I can get the fin straight for a moment but can't really hold it well. So I use two drops of thick CA, one near each end of the root to get the fin attached initially. It can be easily broken free and done over if needed. Then a little thin CA wicks into the joint the rest of the way along the root, and finally come the Tightbond fillets. On the other hand, if I have a jig then it's Tightbond all the way like everything else.
As for the glassine, I just sand it off, deliberately wide enough for the both the fin and fillets. I go with 400 grit and light pressure until I detect the barest hint of the fuzzies, which will be covered over with the Tightbond.
Last is the applicator. I find the wide Tightbond bottle top OK for fin fillets, and for most everything else I screw the top off the bottle and use a scrap balsa stick as an applicator. It's quite good enough for quantity control and positioning, and perfect for reaching up inside tubes (like for forward centering rings.)
