CJ's Wildman New 4 inch V-2 build/instructions

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blackjack2564 said:
Now the tricky part. Small bead of epoxy around the interior edge of tail-cone.
Not too much here. You must insert the motor mount tube with retainer on it, and not get glue on tube while sliding it into position past the glue. Unless you are a magician, face the fact you will, and be prepared to clean off top of tube where the coupler/CR must slide on! I put a motor in retainer and had the cap on to be sure of fit.
Click image for larger version.

View attachment 267037

View attachment 267038



Now slide the coupler/CR on top of MM tube to keep it centered while glue dries. It doesn't have to be in all the way, just far enough to keep things centered.

View attachment 267039


Stand assembly on end until cure. With cap on and motor in place or it can just push up into tailcone!

View attachment 267040


Check every now & then, to make sure the cap doesn't get glued to your tailcone or threads of retainer.
I go back every 15 minutes or so and loosen/tighten cap. If it gets sticky, wipe off glue with rag/alcohol.

View attachment 267041

View attachment 267042

You must have motor in retainer if you want proper fit, with out gap or binding! Notice how nice and snug fit is between end of tailcone & retainer cap.
Click to expand...

OK Jim,
Here's how I did mine a little different in this step. I used a real thin cheap sammich bag over the threads of the retainer, then installed the cap. The sammich bag keeps the epoxy off of the retainer threads. Then I installed the dry motor mount. Next, I used a syringe to inject RocketPoxy through the fin slots, making sure there wasn't any epoxy where the fin would seat. I rotated the motor mount to spread the epoxy evenly around the tube. The RocketPoxy was a little stiff to inject, but I managed. Next one I'll try West.
Just my take... .

Adrian
 
Last edited:
B U M P ????

Oh, Jiiiim,
You forget sumthin? Mine is mostly done. Just got to put the charge containers on the AV bay lids and maybe (GASP!!) paint.

Adrian
 
Got lazy lately....will get right on it & finish in next couple days!

Ummmm .....sounding like a politician running for office. LOL
 
Ok here is my finished V2 avbay.
Perfectflite CF altimeter, Radio shack switch.
PVC charge wells & terminal block are tapped into aluminum bulkplate with 4-40 bolts.
Eye nuts are hard to find by me, so I ordered them from Amazon.
On the bottom, some 1/4" square JB welded to bulkplates to prevent them from rotating.
I use a RC servo connector at back end to make the unit serviceable.

avbay top left.jpg

avbay bottom.jpg

avbay end.jpg
 
Nice! Are you filling the holes where wire comes thru bulkhead with a sealant or something?
 
Flew mine on a CTI J250SK today. 5.5 lbs w/ empty 54/2g motor case ready to be be prepped. 7.8lbs on the pad. Went 3872ft high. No nose weight, just 36" Skyangle and shock cord in the nose. Flew great.
In my haste to get it prepped, and being pestered by my 7yr old son, I forgot to plug the charge wire holes through the end caps... :facepalm:
Rocket recovered OK, and altimeters look clean. Maybe I got lucky...

Adrian
 
Last edited:
Yes if you look really close there is a dab of clear silicone where the wires pass
thru the aluminum bulkplate. Holes for wires are radiused to prevent cuts.
 
tstone said:
Great Adrian thanks for the info. Out of curiosity & posted an Open Rocket file for this previously,
how did CG/CP compare?
Click to expand...

Honestly, I forgot to compare it... :facepalm:
I wasn't really ready to fly it, but I did a quick prep and bang, off she went. Thus the forgotten open wire holes in the av bay lids.

Adrian
 
V2 big and small.jpgFinished now weight minus motor & case is around 5 lbs.
Pictured with its' little 2.1" brother.
Thanks Tim & Jackie great idea for a drag race. How many you think will show up at MWP?
 
tstone said:
View attachment 271065Great Adrian thanks for the info. Out of curiosity & posted an Open Rocket file for this previously,
how did CG/CP compare?
Click to expand...

I just compared Adrian's RKT to the ORK I found on rocket reviews (I think) and they are identical. I just got one these. Looking forward to the build. Thanks for the demonstration!

I do have one question already: Two of my body tube pieces are not flush on the end. They both have about 1" of the circumference where the edge extends beyond flush with the rest of the tube. Hard to describe, I guess. I'll post a photo later. If you encountered this also and know what I am talking about, I am wondering how you handled it.

Thanks!

BC
 
That's a "nub" from the saw when cut.

Place sandpaper flat on table & slide tube with with nub back & forth a few times............everything will be square.
 
tstone said:
View attachment 271065Great Adrian thanks for the info. Out of curiosity & posted an Open Rocket file for this previously,
how did CG/CP compare?
Click to expand...

bclark989 said:
I just compared Adrian's RKT to the ORK I found on rocket reviews (I think) and they are identical. I just got one these. Looking forward to the build. Thanks for the demonstration!

I do have one question already: Two of my body tube pieces are not flush on the end. They both have about 1" of the circumference where the edge extends beyond flush with the rest of the tube. Hard to describe, I guess. I'll post a photo later. If you encountered this also and know what I am talking about, I am wondering how you handled it.

Thanks!

BC
Click to expand...

In full honesty disclosure, that's not my sim file. I honestly don't remember where that came from... And I still haven't compared it to my built model....
Now to prep charges for it for the MWP drag race...

Adrian
 
Hi all,

Is there a reason why the nose cone tip has to remain "detachable"? Looking at adding some nose weight to my wife's V2, and it would be easier to just epoxy it shut, and add bbs and foam.
 
djs said:
Hi all,

Is there a reason why the nose cone tip has to remain "detachable"? Looking at adding some nose weight to my wife's V2, and it would be easier to just epoxy it shut, and add bbs and foam.
Click to expand...

Or.... Longer bolt, lead washer stack and adjustable weight system....

Adrian
 
djs said:
Hi all,

Is there a reason why the nose cone tip has to remain "detachable"? Looking at adding some nose weight to my wife's V2, and it would be easier to just epoxy it shut, and add bbs and foam.
Click to expand...

I've got some great, long, forged 1/4-20 eyebolts if you need em.
 
djs said:
Hi all,

Is there a reason why the nose cone tip has to remain "detachable"? Looking at adding some nose weight to my wife's V2, and it would be easier to just epoxy it shut, and add bbs and foam.
Click to expand...

Nope...mine is permanent now.
I epoxied Nose weight [1lb of lead dust] into my cone for the 2-stager.needed for stability. Mixed up the lead dust and epoxy to consistency of clay. Dropped the rolled balls into cone and pressed into place with dowel. Only took up 2 inches of space!

See post #47 https://www.rocketryforum.com/showt...ullet-to-the-Head-quot-Punisher-2-stage/page2
 
Special thanks goes out to Mark Hayes (Stickershock) for helping me design the temptress!
 

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