Cluster ignition reliability

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Space Oddity

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I have a rocket using a cluster of three Estes D12 motors.
Two attempts at launching it so far have failed due to igniter failure.
I did check and it was igniter failure rather than the lead connections to igniter.

What is the most reliable method of igniting all three motors?

- I have some Klima igniters (similar to Quest I believe with a bead separator). Are they more reliable than the Estes igniters?

- I have also bought a quick match. Unfortunately there were no instructions with it and I can't find any guidance on the Internet as to how they are connected and used. Trial and error is not an option. Can anyone give me a link to a site that explains quick matches in detail, or a previous thread on here (I've also searched for that).
I'm told a quick match is a reliable option. Is it?

All advice welcomed. Four wasted motors so far.

SO.
 
Flashbulbs and BP. Tape ring around motor, pour a bit of BP into nuzzle, insert flashbulb. Pinch tape around bulb. I have lit 13 motors at once with this method.
 
When the Quest Q2G2's are available. Those are the igniters I like for black powder motors.
 
Like Bob said, Quest igniters. They use considerably less current than Estes, so they are perfect for a cluster launch. Also, make sure you have a strong battery. I recommend using a 12 volt battery with some heavier gage wires for your launch controller. The little handheld launch controllers you get with starter rocket kits are just too wimpy for clustering. Twist all of your igniter leads together and make sure your clips are clean so you get good electrical contact.
 
Are you connecting the igniters in series or parallel? You want to connect them in parallel and it's a good power source.
 
Nobody has yet mentioned using a clip whip, I use a clip whip on my clusters especially with Estes igniters, if just using 3-6 motors they work great and get consistent results with Estes Igniters ( I have had zero failures so far using them up to 6 motors).
 
I have a rocket using a cluster of three Estes D12 motors.
Two attempts at launching it so far have failed due to igniter failure.
I did check and it was igniter failure rather than the lead connections to igniter.

What is the most reliable method of igniting all three motors?

- I have some Klima igniters (similar to Quest I believe with a bead separator). Are they more reliable than the Estes igniters?

- I have also bought a quick match. Unfortunately there were no instructions with it and I can't find any guidance on the Internet as to how they are connected and used. Trial and error is not an option. Can anyone give me a link to a site that explains quick matches in detail, or a previous thread on here (I've also searched for that).
I'm told a quick match is a reliable option. Is it?

All advice welcomed. Four wasted motors so far.

SO.

Clustering is as much ART as it is Science: That said the reliability of multi motor cluster ignition is directly related to the METHOD used to check, install, recheck, wire all igniters as well as the Launch system used and the amp rating of the battery.

My club nick-named me Mrcluster several decades ago because during that time I was clustering just about everything that would take more then one motor, most of my Upscales are various # clustered D12 models:)

Using plain old estes solar igniters you MUST use a relay ignition system which moves the battery from the controller side of the system to as close too or under the Launcher. For small clusteres (up to 4 motors) a small 12V 7amp/hr Hobbieco Gel-Cel used by RC flyers works wonderfully. For clusteres up to 12 BP motors a larger 12volt Gel-Cel is highly recommmended in the 26 and up amp/hr rating.

A Relay ignition system is not all that complated or expensive to build, and once in place will last as long as you are still flying. (I regularly use a DPDT 10amp "RangeBox relay" I made back in the early 90's). See plan attached.

Clip whips No matter how well constructed are at best ONLY an extension of whatever ignition system you are using. I must Stress this a bit as many think adding a clip whip is all that is necessary for good Cluster ignition.. That is simply NOT TRUE. Clip-whips regardless of the number of clips should be as short as practical for your launcher system but in no case should it be longer then about 16-18". I like to use #16 Stranded copper wire for my clip leads as it will carry the maximum current with little resistance while still being light enough to allow the lead to lift with the models first motion without ripping the clips from some of the slightly slower lighting motors.

Whatever Igniter you happen to be using the Method of installing, retaining and checking is the very most important part of reliable Multi-motoer cluster ignition.
Check, Check, Check every single igniter you plan on using for you cluster. It is a very good Idea to prepare your clustered model motors in advance of going to the field, say the night before. This gives you the opportunity to have a good hard surface to work on, fewer distractions and plenty of time to concentrate on this operation.
Check the igniter continuity before it is inserted in the motor, after taping the wadding ball/tape igniter installation, and One last time at the launch pad as you hook up the clips & relay. This eliminates the possibility of a broken igniter during these operations. I DO NOT recommend using Igniter plugs to secure cluster motor igniters as they can allow the igniter to slip enough to break contact with the propellant which will cause a ignition failure every time. The old Wadding ball (BETWEEN) the igniter leads tamped firmly in place with a sharpened dowel, Nut-pick, or small file end followed by an over wrap of 1/2" masking tape will securely hold the igniter in place against the propellant during countdown,igntion and a bit of first motion as the model begins to raise from the pad. Since starting this method back in 93 I have had 100% cluster motor ignition. Before using this Ignitier retention method I had 13 unlit cluster motors between 1974 and 1993 having logged over 1000 2-7 motor flights.

For Much more in depth BP Cluster info I strongly suggest downloading Tech-Tip 006 "Clustering BP Motors" from the Library section of www.narhams.org website. I wrote this Tech-Tip article some time ago but it has been updated periodically to keep it current.

Quest Q2g2 Igniters have made Small BP clusters almost easy but every with them 3 and over motors really still need a relay ignition system and careful Cluster motor preperation to ensure all motors light.

The really nice part of using a Relay Ignition System is it doesn't Toast the Aft end of your models as the old BP/Flash-pan method does or rely on finding hard to get Flashbulbs while allowing the use of almost anyones current igniter/starters.
Hope this helps....If you need any further assistance please do not hesitate to post or drop me and e-mail to [email protected]

View attachment RangeBox Relay-a2c_Rev Drawing & Wiring_01-31-96 Rev.06-23-10.pdf

Range Box Relay-a_system & magneium-AP igniters_01-31-96.jpg

Range Box Relay-b_Face lable Close_01-31-96.jpg

Range Box Relay-c1_5pic photos. dwg & parts_06-23-10.jpg

Range Box Relay-d_Inside the Box_09-16-05.jpg

View attachment Cluster Wiring Diagrams-2c_Dwg(Revised)_09-17-12.pdf
 
I've heard the flashbulb method mentioned before, but where does one get flashbulbs these days?

The are getting harder to get, however Aerocon has them listed on their site as a call for price, or even Amazon for about $6 or $7 per dozen. Look for AG1 flashbulbs iirc, I don't use them myself.
 
You're in the UK, this may be the only time this is an advantage. Get some klima igniter sticks and tape match from the model rocket shop. Paul will explain how to set it up. It's amazingly reliable, they used it for that mega cluster in Germany and simple to set up. No need to have a relay or any electronic testing as you use the estes igniter to light the tape match as if it was a single motor.
 
I've heard the flashbulb method mentioned before, but where does one get flashbulbs these days?


How many you want? I have literally over 1000 loose bulbs. Be glad to give you a hand full if you pay shipping. Don't buy bulbs from ANYPLACE but eBay. Search for flashcubes . NOT MAGICUBES! They are different and won't work. Just take the cube apart, you get 4 bulbs per cube.
 
How many you want? I have literally over 1000 loose bulbs. Be glad to give you a hand full if you pay shipping. Don't buy bulbs from ANYPLACE but eBay. Search for flashcubes . NOT MAGICUBES! They are different and won't work. Just take the cube apart, you get 4 bulbs per cube.

Thanks for the offer, it was more of a "is there something I'm missing" question. If I ever decide to give it a try I'll take you up on the offer. Right now I'm playing with Crazy Jim's products.
 
IMHO, clip whips are a waste of time and money.

Your welcome to your opinion. IMHO clip whips are great items to have for smaller clusters (2 to 7 or so motors), and once made I don't have to continue buying consumables like flashbulbs, since the Estes igniters (or q2g2's if I have them) work fine for the smaller clusters. For larger clusters, well flashbulbs and or flash pans are needed to get all of them lit reliably. Of course I have no desire to fly large clusters either due to the expense of that many BP motors when a AP will do the job easier and with more impulse for less money, that being said big clusters are definitely cool.
 
I have never flown a cluster before, but I hope to launch a 3 x D12 launch this Saturday, if I get the rocket ready in time.

I plan to use the club launch system (12 V) and CJ's lighters (see link below) wired in series (which is how the pyro guys do it, see link below). The big thing is finding 3 lighters with nearly identical resistance.

https://www.rocketryforum.com/showthread.php?60469-CJ-s-WaCkY-WeD-Doing-dual-deploy-ya-need-these

https://www.lemaitreltd.com/pdf/WiringPyrotechnics.pdf

Greg
 
Thanks all, great advice.

I take on board the words "check, check, and check again". Also connecting the igniters together in parallel, something I didn't do before, and something that seems obvious now.

I'll also give up on any use of a quick match. Stick to electricity, clean connections, and the simplest route for electricity to get to the igniter heads.

As I've said before, things only become obvious when you're given an obvious answer - thanks.

SO.
 
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Clip whips are in themselves consumables. It's amazing how many I pick up at launches where people either forget or don't care.
 
Clip whips are in themselves consumables. It's amazing how many I pick up at launches where people either forget or don't care.

While I don't completely agree with your comments about the use of Clip Whips I certainly don't consider them any more a consumable then the Micro-Clips on any of my launchers.
I will again state: ANY Clip Whip no matter how well made is ONLY AN Extension of the current carrying control system already in use. They are intended for use with a 12V High Amp Hour battery system.

un-Like rharshberger, I use permanently mechanically connected Clip-Whips on all my Relay Ignition systems for ALL BP clusters up to 12 motors with very near 100% reliablility. Thus eliminating the need for hard to find specialty ignition items like flash bulbs. Haven't tried a cluster larger then 12 motors so can't say weather a larger cluster would be better with Clip-Whip wiring or some other form of ignition (anything is better the Flash Pan ignition which ALWAYS Cooks the aft end of the model).
 
Interesting reason given in the pyro PDF for series wiring - to get a continuity check across all the ignitors. For them it's OK if the effects fire with various random delays...but not for us.

One thing that I do sometimes that hasn't been mentioned is that I'll solder up an ignitor assembly, possibly with extension wires on the leads, so that I can use a single clip set and minimize the number of unsoldered clip connections in the setup. It's a little time-consuming though if you're good with wire strippers and a soldering iron you can do it pretty fast.
 
I've launched a number of black powder clusters with both Q2G2 and Estes Igniters (the ones with the black pyrogen) with no problem. I always use a 12V launch system; it's not a relay unit, but it does have 16 GA wires literally everywhere. I don't use (nor even own) a clip whip. I only have clusters of 2 to 4 engines, so I can't comment on bigger groups, but I've yet to have an ignition failure. The Q2G2 igniters do result in more simultaneous ignition... but even with the Estes igniters, the rocket never gets more than a few inches up the rod without igniting.

Checking my notes, I see that my only 4 cluster has only been launched with Q2G2s. My other clusters of 2 or 3 engines have been flown both ways.
 
Interesting reason given in the pyro PDF for series wiring - to get a continuity check across all the ignitors. For them it's OK if the effects fire with various random delays...but not for us.

One thing that I do sometimes that hasn't been mentioned is that I'll solder up an ignitor assembly, possibly with extension wires on the leads, so that I can use a single clip set and minimize the number of unsoldered clip connections in the setup. It's a little time-consuming though if you're good with wire strippers and a soldering iron you can do it pretty fast.

With pre prepping this may be the better way to use regular igniters, only problem I see is if one gets damaged in transport or loading the rocket due to difficulty of removing then adding a new igniter (butane soldering irons would make this easier in the field), I still like the idea since it would be much lighter weight than the clip whip.
 
Clip whips are in themselves consumables. It's amazing how many I pick up at launches where people either forget or don't care.

Hah. I care. And I forget. I've "donated" at least one to a club. Once the rocket leaves the pad, the last thing on my mind is the whip - more like, where is my rocket and will I recover it safely.
 
If you love your clip whip, set it free,... if it loves you,.. it will return to you. I also write my name on it.
 
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