Modification questions Aerotech G-Force

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I agree fillets look nice, but as I said a little thick CA or epoxy on those gaps make it look good. I built one G-FORCE and I made fin fillets but they covered that hump on the lower part of the fin so they were decent size... they turned out nice, but a lot of work. Heck all this talk about G-FORCE's is making me want to get one again. I love that the kits go together so well.

I filled the gaps with Maxi-Cure thick CA, and it worked great. With the molded detail, I didn't feel it needed much of a fillet, just filling the gap was enough.

I found it was handy to have a few different viscosities of CA --- thick, medium and thin. But if I had to pick just one, I'd probably go with medium or thick. I also used accelerator a few times. Debonder is good if you end up glueing your finger inside your nose.

I used CA for everything, except I used JB Weld for the Estes motor retainer I added, and I used Gorilla Glue for the coupler.
 
While we're at it (and so I can post #100), be sure to have good ventilation and wear goggles* when working with CA. I also like using latex or vinyl gloves since it's easier to peel off the glued gloves than to peel off the glued skin. :wink:

*I've heard/read of several situations where individuals got CA in their eyes and had to go to the hospital and/or deal with eyes being irritated for weeks. A few minutes of caution will save you hours of pain here.
 
I pinned the upper BT to the lower using three removable plastic rivets. The NC base was cut, washed out with dish soap, rinsed, then rinsed with alcohol. After drying, this was scuffed up with 60-grit. The eye bolt was screwed into the bulkhead, epoxied in place. Then, as an assembly, this was epoxied into the nosecone. Parachute attached to shock cord. Works fine with CTI 29mm motors. I augment the 24mm motor charges with some BP, though.


Later!

--Coop
 
Haha...Thank you...People were talking about stuffer tube but I never seen one....Good to know and I think I will use this on my G-Force.

Thanks


When I build long BT80 based rockets I use a full length motor tube that works as a stuffer. One long enough can be had from Balsa Machining Service (BMS) A long 1 piece tube goes a long way to stiffening the entire rocket and really reduces the volume needed to be pressurized. Modify the bulkhead to be a centering ring or purchase a few from BMS or whatever dealer you can find with full length tube. I can't remember who it is but someone has 48" tubes, a 36" would still work well in the G force. I have a 4" rocket with a 54mm motor tube 48" long. It also features a full length 4" coupler tube because the body is all odd sized length, 4 sections. The coupler and stuffer tube makes me confidant enough in the airframe to launch J800's or K550's in it...it's for Black Rock...I want to have a chance of finding it after the flight ;) It's getting a 24 hour strobe so I can find it at night if I lose it in the day.
 
I crashed mine (built with small ejection volume) at NARAM last year on a hobbyline motor whose ejection charge was too anemic to even get the nose off. Not sure what you can do about that but I'd be leery of anything that increases the volume unless you go to reloads. I did find it necessary to glass the rear 2" of the main tube as the AT 4" tube is pretty thin and soft. If I build a new one I'm definitely going to 38mm and also will ditch the baffle in favor of my usual Nomex blanket.
 
I crashed mine (built with small ejection volume) If I build a new one I'm definitely going to 38mm and also will ditch the baffle in favor of my usual Nomex blanket.


I've always figured this should have been 38mm from gitgo. Shouldn't make that much difference with ejection charges from the motor, though... not sure about AT, but CTIs 38s are only 0.1g bigger.



Later!

--Coop
 
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