My Level 2 Build Madcow Patriot

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AfterBurners

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I decided to unbox my L2 rocket. Not sure how many pictures I'll be including because I know this build has been done before. As always Mike from MADCOW never lets me down. His kits are top notch and well made with quality materials. Every kit is always packed carefully and most importantly well packed. The way some of the USPS and UPS drivers delivers packages they don't seem to care much.

I put some thought into my L2. I know there are a lot of different ways to go and so many options. I'm keeping this to motor ejection and not going to build it like a tank. The kit has many options including DD and your choice between 38mm and 54mm. I chose 38mm because it would be more practical for me to fly. Going this route will allow me to fly it on 29's if I chose too and keep my wallet from getting thin. I can get my certification on a J500, which will take the rocket to around 3000' or I can go with a J825 and take it to 3400' with a deployment velocity of 1mph! On a good day without much wind. After I get my L2 I plan on using time between certification to become proficient with electronics, staging, clustering or a combination of all these. I will also be doing more scratch builds during that time. Becoming L2 opens up a lot of possibilities. I think you learn the most as a high power flyer at L2 because of it. After becoming comfortable at L2 I'll plan my L3. There's no time frame on this rocket. I was shooting for Novembers launch at ROC but might do it in December so I can buy my case and reload when WM has his BSS.

Some of the changes I plan on making to the kit is replacing the open eye bolts with close eye bolts (pictured). I also want to get a longer motor mount tube. The one that came with the is only 8" I'm looking at something around 15" to accommodate the longer case I plan on using. I had some 38mm LOC motor tube laying around, but the rings fit way too sloppy on it so using it is out of the question. This is also why I purchased an extra center ring. I think 3 rings should be plenty. Of course I went with an Aeropack retainer for positive motor retention. As far as recovery I do like the shock cord, but I have a Top Flight nylon cord with pre sewn loops at each end, but it's only 15'. I know Gary has a 25' nylon cord I think it's 9/16" so I might consider it? I have plenty of chutes, but ideally I would like to get a Fruity Chute. I haven't RS it, but I think a 30" or 36" might work nicely, but it depends where my finances are at the time. I'm also including a RS file I have of this kit.

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After I un-taped the fins I noticed one of them had some very minor damage to it, which can be fixed with some spot putty glaze or FnF takes about 2 seconds to fix it.

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I'm going to place an order with MC for the longer MMT and 12x12 Nomex blank since I don't have an extra one laying around.
 
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Madcow 4" Patriot Rocket Parts list and weights (in oz)

Nose Cone - 6.7
Coupler - 4.2
Upper Airframe - 3.6
Lower Airframe - 9.0
Nylon Shock - 3.6
Bulk Head - 0.9
(3) Center Rings - 2.5
(4) Fins - 5.8
Aeropack Retainer (38mm) - 0.7
Rail Button Hardware - 0.6
Motor mount tube - N/A
12 X 12 Nomex - N/A
Parachute and hardware - N/A

Total weight with parts listed - 37.6 oz / 2.35 lbs

Just remembered I have a 30" WM Recon chute good for a 4 lb rocket. It just might be the way to go in this rocket
 
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I waited 2-3 weeks trying to find a piece of 12" motor tube to fit the retainer I had and still no luck. I ordered FB tube from MADCOW and that size was wrong as well...so I just decided to use what came with the kit get started. I assembled everything pictured in just a few hours ....

I used Titebond II throughout except on the front centering when gluing it inside the airframe and the tube coupler. I had this bad vision of the pieces "locking" and getting stuck. I also used Titebond No Drip and No Run to make the final fillets. When I took the pictures I had just applied the fillets.

All that need to be done is sand the nose cone, epoxy the nose to the upper portion airframe and mount the rail buttons and fins. I'll also be using wood glue on the fins and doing the same procedure for fin fillets.

I also used the stock recovery system tying a cinch knot to secure the shock cord to the eyebolt that was supplied. Depending on the final weight I'll either use a 42" flare chute or a 30" Recon chute. Either choice should bring it down nicely since it WON'T weight as much as a tank
 
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This is going to be very fun!

One thing I would like to say is I don't think that you need a longer motor mount tube. I have had cases stick a a good six inches out the end of the MMT and it caused no issues what so ever.

As for your picture problem it seems to be pretty hit and miss.
 
This is going to be very fun!

One thing I would like to say is I don't think that you need a longer motor mount tube. I have had cases stick a a good six inches out the end of the MMT and it caused no issues what so ever.

As for your picture problem it seems to be pretty hit and miss.

Hit and miss yeah I know I'll post them later when the ADMIN decides went to fix it
 
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Today I mounted the rail buttons and used Titebond II to glue the fins in place. Instead of using the complete pattern to check the alignment I used a piece that formed a 90 for me it allows ease of use without the chance of sliding the entire template over the fins. All I need really is the just the 90 portion.

Next I just have to make wood glue fillets and go over them after they dry with Titebond No Drip No Run trim glue
 
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After I un-taped the fins I noticed one of them had some very minor damage to it, which can be fixed with some spot putty glaze or FnF takes about 2 seconds to fix it.

View attachment 265596


I'm going to place an order with MC for the longer MMT and 12x12 Nomex blank since I don't have an extra one laying around.

For what it is worth, a little steam would have taken most of that damage out... Here is a small tutorial, but there is lots of info out there on the subject:

https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-remove-a-dent-from-wood/
 
On wood that thin hot iron steaming will just warp it, I use the steam dent removal on furniture and firearms quite often.
 
On wood that thin hot iron steaming will just warp it, I use the steam dent removal on furniture and firearms quite often.

That dent is running with the grain; I figured steam would have done the trick real quick like, not long enough to warp... I could be wrong though. How thin is the wood? 1/4" maybe(?)
 
Looking good. One of my favorite birds. Here's to hoping the curse of the Patriot doesn't hurt you too. I wish I hadn't painted mine until AFTER my cert...
 
The MIM-104 was touted by the military as having a fairly high success rate in the Gulf War, when in reality only about 9% actually had confirmed kills on their SCUD targets. Then there is the acronym for the Patriot Missile System...
 
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