Basic Wiring how-to video

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I've posted my my recent how-to video on components, tools and techniques for electronics bays. (Or you may just want to see a software guy try to solder.)
jcrocket.com/basic-wiring.shtml

John, another nice video.

As a reformed electronics tech, I offer a couple comments/questions.

Are you using rosin core solder, or is it solid?

How hot are you running your iron/ is it variable temp? To certain point hotter is better. Also, when tinning wires heating from the bottom is a little more efficient.

What are you using to plug the wire hole through the bulkhead? I use silicone rtv personally.
 
Are you using rosin core solder, or is it solid?
I assume it's rosin core it says "lead-free silver solder" on the tube.

How hot are you running your iron/ is it variable temp? To certain point hotter is better. Also, when tinning wires heating from the bottom is a little more efficient.
By default, mid-range (about 300°C). Thanks for the tip on tinning.

What are you using to plug the wire hole through the bulkhead? I use silicone rtv personally.
I use poster tack, and cover with masking tape. Silicone works well too, just messier.
 
I watched it, and, as always, good job on the video, John.

I've used silicone and the fun-tack. Hot glue gun works, too--sticks well enough to seal, but removes easily when needed... but I typically use barrier strips. True, another component, and possible failure point, but I like being able to attach and remove the leads with the bulkheads in place.


Later!

--Coop
 
Thanks for sharing John, I hadn't thought to clip the unused Schurter Switch terminals .

Will send the link it to some av-bay newbs !

Kenny
 
(Or you may just want to see a software guy try to solder.)

That kind of thing keeps us hardware types awake at night.

Nice primer though. One comment is that I wonder why you chose to cut the additional terminals off the rotary switch. I have found that the additional pair can be used as a spares if a primary fails to vibration. Actually two comments. There are different philosophies as to whether you should tin the leads going into a pressure terminal. You mentioned deformation of the wire and that can be an advantage as it actually increases the surface contact area. I run hot and cold on that. Sometimes I do tin as installing and removing the wire is a PITA. As I move to simply having an altimeter for each rocket (they are really getting cheap enough), I do not tin as I like the additional contact area.
 
John,

Thanks. That is a great instructional video. I usually use a liquid rosin flux. It helps with adhesion.
 
Lookin' good, John. I'm always impressed with your work. You've given me a lot of ideas. Heck, pretty much every nose cone I get now gets modded because of your how-to.
 
One comment is that I wonder why you chose to cut the additional terminals off the rotary switch. I have found that the additional pair can be used as a spares if a primary fails to vibration.
I do it mostly for neatness. Switches aren't that expensive (the Schurter switches are about $6) and it avoids any chance of shorting.

There are different philosophies as to whether you should tin the leads going into a pressure terminal. You mentioned deformation of the wire and that can be an advantage as it actually increases the surface contact area. I run hot and cold on that. Sometimes I do tin as installing and removing the wire is a PITA. As I move to simply having an altimeter for each rocket (they are really getting cheap enough), I do not tin as I like the additional contact area.
Interesting. I've noticed that 9V battery leads are always soldered at the end and as you say it's easier to manage with a solid end.
 
There are different philosophies as to whether you should tin the leads going into a pressure terminal.

I like to tin the wires going into the screw terminals, but I will only do this if I have a chance to go back and tighten the terminal at least a couple of times over a few days to a week. I usually prepare an ebay well in advance of a flight, so it isn't a problem to do this. I notice that the terminal can always be tightened further a few hours to a day or so after it is initially inserted. After a few passes, though, there is no further change. It may not matter all that much, but I would never insert a tinned wire and then go fly.

Jim
 
As an interface wiring guy, I see both sides of the tinning issue. I have generally preferred to tin wire going into terminals, since it ensures that you have all the strands together, and it eases insertion. But, it does create a likely point of failure, in that you've created a more brittle section of previously very flexible wire. Manufacturers of such terminals, like Phoenix Contact, usually specify that you *do not* tin. The additional surface area argument is a good one, too. My follow-up suggestion is to make sure to provide strain relief on wires connected to terminal blocks on your sleds where possible - small cable clamps, or even small nylon cable ties around the wire and through holes in the sled. If the wire can't move near where it's inserted into a terminal, it's far less likely to break. Good wire management just makes everything more reliable, easier to troubleshoot, and looks nicer.

And John, thanks for another great contribution with this video!

Mark
 
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