Tango Papa Decals

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warix

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I am not sure where to post this question so I will give it a shot here. I am building a Der Red Max kit that I have had for at least 6 years possibly as long as 10. I am very close to the point where I will be applying the decals. I was studying the sheet and I noticed it has the Tango Papa Decals logo and web address on it. I am not familiar with these and I am concerned the sheet may be to old to even use. It does have a few crinkles in it from being in storage for a long time but nothing to bad.

If the sheet is still good, how would I go about applying them since they are so old?
 
Tango Papa was a company that made reproduction decals for out of production estes kits. Their site is still up, so they may still be in action, but I haven't heard anything about them in a while!

I'm sure they'll be fine to use, but I'd go ahead and post a picture for a second opinion.




Braden
 
As far as I know Tango Papa is still in business; I bought an upscale Mars Lander from them back in December.

Why don't you try a small sample of the decal and see how it works?
 
I probably will. I just didn't want to do it until I am ready for them and I still have the sand the paint coat and then apply the final coat. I was thinking it would be a bummer to find out I had a bad sheet of decals when I sit down to do it. I will cut them up tonight and give it a shot. I will report back what I find out.
 
Well, I guess the answer is that they are no good. I cut the sheet up and used the Tango logo as a test decal. I let it soak for about a minute. When I went to slide the decal off it just disintegrated. I tried another one and same thing happened. So now I am going to go shopping for an aftermarket decal sheet.

Probably just order it from Tango Papa.
 
I'd give the entire sheet of decals a coating of clearcoat finish (and let them dry several days) before you cut them up or try to use them.

That can give the decals a little more tensile strength and increase their chances of holding together and remaining intact.

Oops -- saw you already went ahead anyway. Oh well.

Gordy at Excelsior Rocketry can also do you a Red Max decal set, I believe.

https://www.excelsiorrocketry.com/product.php?id_product=350
 
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I ordered and used some a very long time ago, applied right after receiving them, they are very delicate. They look great but were a PITA to work with. Very thin and like to rip. I would never order them again. Oh and don't ever clear coat them they wrinkle like hell!!!!!
 
I heard from Tom over at Tango Papa and he recommends that I put two coats of Decal film on them and then give them a try. I already cut them up though. Is it okay to just put it on the cut pieces? It might be a PITA but if it works then I am good to go.

Thanks everyone for your input on such a basic question.
 
First time I've ever heard of decal film, had to look it up. I guess is doesn't hurt to try the stuff, should hold the decals together. I don't know if it would eliminate the wrinkles. The decals are of excellent quality, look great, can't tell they are decals. They are very thin, delicate, had no problems with the small ones, but the larger sized ones I screwed up and could not use. You will notice some missing on my Phoenix.

I ordered a set for my Estes Phoenix years ago and after applying and letting dry for a few days I clear coated them for protection. They wrinkled, but from 3 feet + away can't notice it. Good luck with them!


Estes Pheonix.JPGPheonix.jpg
 
I was able to get a bottle of the decal film today from my local hobby store. I already cut up the decals but I still painted each one with the film. I did three coats letting them dry for an hour between coats. If I get home from work early enough tomorrow I will see how well it worked out. I am keeping my fingers crossed!
 
Sorry to hear you've had trouble with the decals. I've been using Tango Papa for a long time and have several back up sheets for various kits that are about 10 years old. After reading your post I decided to see if they were still good so I cut a small test piece from each and had no problem with any of them.

I'm just guessing here but is it possible yours have been stored someplace where they were exposed to extended heat or cold?

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Yes - it was stored in my "shed" which is a gutted 1975 Dodge Van. So heat in the summer and cold in the winter. I will be trying to use the decals tonight and hopefully the decal film did the trick.
 
Yes - unfortunately there were about 15 C6-5, some Bs and some Ds stored in an ammo can. I tried to put one in an engine mount and it would not fit. I think they are all swollen and I do not plan to use them. Not sure how to dispose of them though.
 
Yes - unfortunately there were about 15 C6-5, some Bs and some Ds stored in an ammo can. I tried to put one in an engine mount and it would not fit. I think they are all swollen and I do not plan to use them. Not sure how to dispose of them though.

to dispose of unwanted BP motors simply soak them in a bucket of water. throw the empty casings in the normal trash. That is a shame as BP motors if stored properly (in controlled temperature) can be flown almost indefinitely,l I regularly fly Old Oop BP motors from the 1965-70's (JUST LIKE THEY ARE NEW). The only difference is the old ones with clay caps over the ejection charge need to be scribed with an X to ensure they break at ejection.

Some additional Old Decal information:
I regularly use Old to ancient kit decals some 30 years old. how? by giving them a new clear coat. ALL real silkscreened decals use an overcoat called Decal Clear. Unfortunately it turns yellow over time and becomes very brittle. I've learned that giving these old decal sheet a new clear coat using KRYLON 1305 UV resistant Clear (a Single wet coat will do) Then these old decals can be used just like they were new. Oh! this new clear coat does nothing for the Yellowing of White parts but everything on the sheet is still usable:)
Tango Papa and other after market decal makers (Including Me) are using an ALPS dry ink transfer printers. these decals are almost NEVER clear coated before being sold. They must however be clear coated before being used or they will instantly come apart.
InkJet printed water slide decals must also be clear coated before used or they will instantly turn into a brown blob of goo on the sheet.
Inkjet decals can not print white so white backgrounds must be printed on pre-painted white background sheets instead of Clear.

Hope this help in the future
 
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Thanks Micromeister! That is very very helpful! I have learned all this by trial and error but not to much error, and your info just confirms what I had concluded. Thanks again!
 
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Well - I put the decals on this morning. Most of them worked very well and the rest sucked really bad. It's kinda weird though. Because the ones I thought were going to be easy were the worst and the ones I thought would give a hard time were super easy.

ImageUploadedByRocketry Forum1433015776.427500.jpg
 
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