Depending on the meter, there are typically two modes. One is simple continuity, this mode usually has a beep associated with it as well (the meter will beep while holding the probe tips together). Don't use this mode if you have a proper resistance mode (usually shown with a "Ω" sign). On Flukes for instance the models I've used the dial position is for the ohm meter, and if you push one of the buttons it toggles to/from the continuity mode.
The problem with really low resistances is that the probes of the meter can have a pretty big effect on the results. What I do (and this can be a bit tricky with just your two hands, a helper makes it easier) is to hold one lead of the e-match to each probe tip and note the number, then make the two e-match leads touch each other while keeping the probes touching the leads where they were before (don't touch the probes together, just get the leads to touch). Now note how much the number changes. This delta would be the resistance of the e-match, the number you get when the leads are shorted is just the resistance of your probes. You may want to repeat this a few times and
hopefully you'll get the same answer.
On my pretty high-end Fluke for instance I can get ~2 ohms just touching the two probe tips together. But I'll get a ~1.2 ohm higher reading when measuring through the e-match so that shows the
added resistance of the e-match. Amusingly the dirt-cheap pocket multimeter I carry in my range box gives a much closer to 0Ω reading when touching its tips together than my orders of magnitude more expensive Fluke, I suspect because the leads of the cheapo meter are permanently-attached so they may have taken the extra step of (crudely) calibrating the lead resistance, while the Fluke has interchangeable leads so they probably didn't bother since they don't know what you might plug into it.
But do try to ensure that you don't move where the e-match leads touch the probe tips while taking both measurements, as how well you're making that contact, or where the contact occurs on the probe can make a difference that could be a fraction of an ohm, which is pretty significant error when you're only trying to measure one ohm.
Because the above technique should account for any added resistance, I've sometimes used a pair of wires with alligator clips on each end, each clip-wire connecting one probe tip to one lead of the e-match. The alligator clips make it a bit easier to just touch the leads together without disturbing much else. The meter reading will be higher when shorting the leads because of the extra wire length and clips, but again the
delta in the readings is what matters here. If you add too much resistance however the meter may start to lose precision, i.e. it may only show you tenths of an ohm while the reading is <10Ω, so you can't go too crazy with extra resistance in the measurement setup. You really want the meter showing you 0.1Ω or smaller increments, so that you don't have to worry about it rounding between 1 and 2.
There are also much fancier '4-wire' ohm meters, where the meter has 4 leads and you connect two to each point you're trying to measure. The 4-wire measurement technique allows the meter to calibrate away the resistance of the probes automatically, but these are generally more expensive meters (and typically bench-top meters, I've never seen a handheld that had a 4-wire mode). They do give you much better precision in the milli-ohm range though, since this is what they're meant for (you need a 4-wire measurement to get rid of the cabling error).
