Argent epoxy - learning curve for me

A side note about my Argent build. I haven't done much with Epoxy and learned something today.

The instructions told me to use epoxy to attach the nosecone to the small tube, and also to attach the transition to the other end of the same tube. I roughed up the plastic a lot, even cut into it with my hobby knife to make sure the epoxy held. But this was the first time I really used that much epoxy and I failed to mask off the outside of the body tube. Oops.

Looking back if I'd just wrapped the end of body tube, and the end of the nose cone, with a layer of painters tape it would have been easy to avoid the mess. But as I put them together epoxy was running out everywhere and as I wiped it off it smeared onto the tube and looks horrible. The tube/transition is even worse because I was using 5 min epoxy and that was the second one I did with the same batch. I just barely got it done before it was too late. I'm not sure how well epoxy will sand off but I'll try. It sure would have been better if I'd wiped off the excess and then removed the painters tape to leave a clean body tube and nose cone.

Next time I'll know.

Epoxy can be a mess. Using alcohol to clean it up works very well. The alcohol is a solvent for epoxy and as long as it doesn't damage what you are trying to clean up, usually gets most of the excess epoxy off without issues.

Next time try applying the epoxy inside of body tube with wooden stick (Cooler) insert nosecone/ transition with twisting motion, good to go. No epoxy on tubes!!

Handeman said:

Epoxy can be a mess. Using alcohol to clean it up works very well. The alcohol is a solvent for epoxy and as long as it doesn't damage what you are trying to clean up, usually gets most of the excess epoxy off without issues.

Click to expand...

I have a beer here. Or is there something better? Hahaha!

No, seriously. Rubbing alcohol and a Qtip?

rcktnut said:

Next time try applying the epoxy inside of body tube with wooden stick (Cooler) insert nosecone/ transition with twisting motion, good to go. No epoxy on tubes!!

Click to expand...

Dang, that would have also been better. Where were you when I was doing this wrong????

I used a Qtip dipped in rubbing alcohol to try and remove it, but it didn't seem to make any difference. I couldn't get any of the epoxy to come off. So I'm now trying to sand it smooth.

Mushtang said:

I used a Qtip dipped in rubbing alcohol to try and remove it, but it didn't seem to make any difference. I couldn't get any of the epoxy to come off. So I'm now trying to sand it smooth.

Click to expand...

The alcohol is used to remove the excess when it's still wet. Hopefully your sanding goes quickly (I'm sure it's a pain, but it should sand off OK).

When doing epoxy it's imported to apply it so that assembling the pieces pushes the excess somewhere it's not an issue, like on the inside run of a tube as noted above. Masking is good to but not always the answer. Epoxy was my enemy during my L1&2 build and using it gave me a lot of anxiety. I was always rushing to finish before it set up. I had some 10 minute that wanted to be 3 minute. I have learned that using longer life epoxy and being wells prepared with all the parts and tools ready and test fit take a lot of the stress out. Also I now do one thing per batch. Epoxying in 3 av-bay screws with fast epoxy I will make three separate small batches. It does lead to a little more waste but it's worth it. I have also had issues with improperly measured or mixed epoxy that doesn't set up well. Now I use a scale and mix thoroughly, try to imagine every molecule of hardener being mixed next to a molecule of resin. Also, have the denatured alcohol handy. Early on I improperly mixed a batch of epoxy and glued on my nose tip and motor retainer. Realizing my mistake I took everything apart and thanks to the alcohol I was able to clean off all of the unset epoxy and start over without an issue.

455 Buick said:

The alcohol is used to remove the excess when it's still wet. Hopefully your sanding goes quickly (I'm sure it's a pain, but it should sand off OK).

Click to expand...

Thanks for the clarification on when it's used. I'll keep that in mind for next time!

It sanded off mostly okay. I put a thick layer of primer over the seams and when they dry I'll sand them down and put on another. From the looks of it there's not going to be much of anything to ever indicate there was a problem.

Thanks everyone!

When using most epoxy types, I find alcohol for clean up or smoothing and Black electrical tape for protecting areas (epoxy won't stick to it) to be great tools.

I've got a pair of Argents (and a 3rd that became my Cherokee D upscale), and I don't see the point of gluing the nosecone to the body tube. I'm inclined to use masking tape to friction fit it. If I'm really worried about it, I'd tie a length of shock cord to the nosecone and the transition, and then use that to make 100% sure that all the components will return together. That way if something goes wrong, I could always just untie the parts and replace the damaged component.

For working with epoxy, I find a good (90%) denatured rubbing alcohol and Nitrile (not latex) gloves to be indispensable.
For working the alcohol, I use Q-Tips(for small areas) paper towel dipped in alcohol (for larger areas) and a gloved finger tip dipped in the alcohol to smooth fillets.
I, like Ravenex, also prefer to work in small batches as well, especially if I'm using a quick setting epoxy.
Sanding epoxy can be a PITA, to make it a little easier you can add a filler like micro-balloons. Micro-balloons will weaken the epoxy a bit and make it brittle, so I only use them for cosmetic fillets on the outside of the rocket.

I like to have alcohol sterilizing wipes around, to clean up my mess.

I have pried up the epoxy with a hobby knife, it depends what type of surface it's on.
YMMV

K'Tesh said:

I've got a pair of Argents (and a 3rd that became my Cherokee D upscale), and I don't see the point of gluing the nosecone to the body tube. I'm inclined to use masking tape to friction fit it. If I'm really worried about it, I'd tie a length of shock cord to the nosecone and the transition, and then use that to make 100% sure that all the components will return together. That way if something goes wrong, I could always just untie the parts and replace the damaged component.

Click to expand...

Great way to do it also. I glued a nosecone to an unused bay once and wish that I did not. Now I friction fit and use 2 "pins" ( 2-56 / 4-40 / or plastic rivets) depending upon size, 180 degrees apart. Paint the heads, they add a little detail.

2cd this You could have used the empty space to mount an altimeter or camera

K'Tesh said:

I've got a pair of Argents (and a 3rd that became my Cherokee D upscale), and I don't see the point of gluing the nosecone to the body tube. I'm inclined to use masking tape to friction fit it. If I'm really worried about it, I'd tie a length of shock cord to the nosecone and the transition, and then use that to make 100% sure that all the components will return together. That way if something goes wrong, I could always just untie the parts and replace the damaged component.

Click to expand...

oddmanrockets said:

2cd this You could have used the empty space to mount an altimeter or camera

Click to expand...

However with a camera (at least a look down (Cineroc style)), you'd be looking back at the transition, and this wouldn't be the best of views.

The Argent does lend itself well to modifying into a dual deploy if a person wants to redshift it by going with HPR motors.

I've been using Acetone on Qtips or paper towel to clean up excess epoxy as of lately and have been having great results.