"SkyPyrate, SkyWolf" Commemorative NSL beasties..

AARrg it's, time to do a little build of the second commemorative NSL rocket.
SkyWolf, a well tested critter, last weekend it celebrated it's 50th launch on a G25-10, perfect flight, way the hell up there, glad I added a tracker, landed in 5 to 6 foot tall wheat of some sort. even lost charlie the crazy dog for a while in that tall crap.

Starting with the motor tube.

The last page of the instruction has a fin alignment guide and a fin mark guide.
the fin mark guide is on the bottom of the page, we just cut it off and use it like a ruler.

First off glue using Epoxy or even a good wood glue the aft CR flush to the end motor tube. Cure.....
Using the mark guide slide on the upper CR to the mark on the guide , then draw a line around the tube to mark it's position.
No glue yet for this CR.

This rocket is a mean whistler.

We'll remove that CR for a modification.

Needing to cut a 1/8 " notch about have way through the CR.
This is where the shock cord will pass through.
I used a sharp Exacto blade. taking a few pass( take your time) and remove those layers , till I was about half way through.

Time to play with the shock cord: using a sharp exacto knife, cut off a 9" piece of the shock cord and stash it to the side, it's for the NC.
Tie a tight knot about 3" up from one end of the remaining cord, trying to make it no wider that the CR.
Prep some epoxy and dip and soak the shock cord from the knot down.
lay it down on the motor tube as shown , coat and slide the notched CR over the shock cord and back to the mark made on the tube. smooth out the soaked cord.

Now I cheat a bit here, I wrap the tube with electric black tape, it compresses the cord flat and holds that pesky knot flat too.
I normally stuff the shock cord inside the motor tube at this time for safe keeping.

No worries matety , black tape will not stick to the epoxy, when it's fully cured, it pulls right off.

OK, back at it, Sorry short Vacation on the ocean.
Now for the HARD part, not really......

Cutting the Fin slot:
1) get the ruler, remember that thing you used for the motor mount.
2) Lay it along the pre-made fin line on the airframe(not the Lug line( marked "L"))
3) Line that thar Rulaarrrr up and mark the (4) fin spots( forward and rear for both fins) repeat that on all (3) fin lines.
4) use a fins to add a thickness marker for ( making guides for the exacto blade)line up on pre-drawn line and mark that width. again all (3) fin line.
5) Finish up marking the fin cutout completely, I used the same fin to draw a straight line, any straight edge will do.
Start cutting:
6) use long slow easy cuts( only a few layers at a time) should take 4 or 5 slices to pass thru the tube, take your time, the slower the better, for clean cuts.
7) once you have that done , move on to the next fin line, finish all fin markings

OK, I was in a hurry on mine a bit, I know I did not follow my own rules. off the gang plank with yar.

Now that the fin slots are done, I'll test fit the motor tube assembly in the airframe, adjust if not. Time to install.
Stuff the shock cord inside the motor tube and set aside for a minute and mix up some epoxy.
Using a long stick apply and 1/4” bead around the whole tube, just in front of the top fin slot. Insert the motor tube in shock cord end first ( sorry, just had to say that) slide it in till the aft centering ring is 1” from the airframe. Add some more epoxy around the inside at the base of the airframe, then push in until the bottoms of both airframe and motor tube are flush, Take your finger and twist the motor tube till all fins shot are clear of the shock cords glue mount (we want that between the fins ). Wipe off any excess epoxy around or in the fin slots ( try using a tooth pick), Set to the side standing aft end down and let fully cure.

Getting only the forward fins.
Sand the front edge to your desired shape
( TIP: just small taper to the fins has a better effect for making a whistling sound)
and finish sand the rest of the fin with like 200 to 400 sand paper leave all fin edges very square.
Finish sand the aft fins only, leave all fin edges very square.
Just enough to remove the burn marks from the Laser cutting.

I mixed up a batch of epoxy and start with the aft fins
first, apply a small bead of epoxy inside each
lower fin slots on the motor tube using a thin
popsicle stick ( toothpick ). Now, one at a time
apply a small bead along the root edge of the aft
fins and install them in each aft fin slot.. Wipe off
any excess epoxy. Set the rocket base over the
fin guide again.( Remember it, last page of the
instruction) Looking down on it, making sure it’s
centered and fin slots are inline with the fin line
on the guide, move the fins till all line up
correctly, hold them with tape if necessary. Let
them fully cure!

Now for the forward fins , you’ll need a
couple of popsicle type sticks and small spring
clamps or tape. Mix up a batch of epoxy, apply a
small bead of epoxy inside each forward fin slots
on the motor tube using a . Now, one at
a time apply a small bead along the root edge of
the aft fins and install them in each aft fin slot and
use a popsicle stick to hold the fins in place and
straight to the aft fins. Spring clamps are great for
this, using one clamp to hold the stick to the aft
fin and one to hold the forward fin. Repeat this for
all (3) forward fins , wipe off any excess epoxy it
this time, stand aft end down and let fully cure.

Remember that cut off 9" piece of the shock cord that got stashed.

Time to put it to use.

Prepping the nose cone.
Using a 1/4” drill bit , drill (2) hole in the base of
the NC as shown in picture. (We don’t trust the cord
loop provided!), Thread the 9” piece of shock
cord thru the (2) hole and tie the (2) end together
in a knot, Drop a bit of CA on the knot and let dry.

A hint, sometimes it's hard to fish out the shock cord inside the NC, Try a paper clip shaped like a fish hook, works wonders....

I worked on two fins set at a time, it will improve the aerodynamics and appearance of your model.
Wipe clean with rubbing alcohol the fillet areas and let fully dry.
Mix up a batch of epoxy, add Milled Fiber(or equal) for extra strength if you have some.
Apply a good size bead of epoxy at the joint of the fins and airframe tube.
Dip your finger in some rubbing alcohol and smooth out the epoxy back and forth at this joint until you have
created about a 1/8” fillet of epoxy. Keep running your finger down the fillet until it is smooth. wipe off any epoxy drip.
The rubbing alcohol is great for cleaning your fingers after this procedure too!

Allow epoxy to fully cure, and rotate the Airframe and repeat this process on the next two
fins. Repeat this process until all the fins have fillets.

Allow all epoxy to completely cure before standing the rocket upright!

o
o
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Time to mount the Launch lugs. Getting the two provided 1/4” launch lug. Pickup the airframe and locate the launch lug line you drew previously and make a cross mark 1” in from aft ends and 3” from the forward end. Mixup a small amount of epoxy and coat one side of each lug and place it on the airframe with the mark lined up with the outside ends. Use a launch rod and tape to hold those lugs inline with each other and straight to the airframe. ( A really straight piece of coat hanger will work too.) Lay on it’s side with the lugs facing up and let fully cure, again clean off any extra glue.

OR

For those that would or will use Rail buttons, Place the Buttons within the CR areas, 1/4" from aft and 1/4" in front the foward fins will tap right in the center of those CR's. I find a 5/32 drill bit works good. The screw used on most Rail buttons may be a bit to long and will have to be adjusted.

Sanding ,Prep and painting
Using 200 grit or finer sand all fins, fin joints ( fillets) and lug areas . Remove all imperfections and sand till smooth to the touch. Do the same on the nose cone to remove casting marks, but try to use a finer sand paper like a 400 grit and leave no scratch marks on the nose cone ( this will make it harder to paint and require more coats).

Paint a good quality primer coat on the airframe and nose cone, let fully dry lightly sand again with 400 grit paper. Repeat this process till your happy with the end results. Wipe down the airframe with alcohol with a dust free cloth . Now comes the time to select your colors. The colors used should be so the black decal will show up nicely . let fully dry..........

Using a good painters tape and newspaper, coverup anything below the top 4” of the airframe and place the nose cone on top . Wipe down the exposed airframe with a dust free cloth. I suggest using a gloss black paint here, apply many light coats till your happy with the result. Let fully dry and remove all tape and covering.

Decals:

Cut out each decal on the black decal sheet as close to the decal edge as possible. On the fin decals also notice the difference between fin sides and maybe even separate them into different piles for easy application.

The decals are really quite simple to apply. Decide where the graphics will be located on the airframe and fins. Carefully peel the application tape (the semitransparent part) away from the backing. THE VINYL LETTERS WILL COME UP WITH THE APPLICATION TAPE - THIS IS GOOD! ( if they don't, rub a flat object across them a few times.)

This also exposes the adhesive on the vinyl Take your time - once you've applied the decal to a surface, they are STUCK Make sure you line everything up over the tube or fins before allowing the vinyl to contact !

Finally get the 1” wide holographic strip, peel the tape backing off and place it evenly around the spot where the black and other color meet ( 4” down from the forward airframe). Try to get the meeting the the two color in the middle of the tape and rap it all the way around the tube, some will overlap.

Finally the last things to do!!!!!


Using a drill and a 1/16” bit, drill (1) hole in the aft end centering ring in the center of that ring, like below and ½”deep . Locate the screw and washer and screw them in for safe keeping (not too tight)

This will hold most motors and may need to adjusted.

If you ever strip it out, just add another hole some other position. I have not had to do this yet.

Attach the NC and parachute to the shock cord.

So far I have well over 80 flights on my RED Skywolf and 51 on the yellow one. These are great small field flyers and just love "F" motors. Of course I pushed the limits and if you're really brave try and "H" and have a TRACKER....