New kit on way. Build tips requested.

After changing my mind many times on a first mid power kit, I finally ordered the aerotech strongarm. I actually would have prefered the NCR archer kit, it isnt available through any canadian suppliers so I went with the SA. If anyone has built it or is familiar with it and has any advice that would be great.
I also ordered the CTI 29mm starter kit to power it.

I have a few Aerotech kits which are built...even have the Strong Arm, which has been on my build pile for a while, but just haven't gotten to it yet. I think it's a great first mid-power kit and the SA looks awesome as well!

There are many tips out there if you do searches, but here are a few good ones that I know of from my experience:
-Get the needed supplies. Aerotech kits usually suggest CA (super glue) for assembly. If you're not used to it, learn about it before you send yourself to the hospital with your hands glued together or glue in your eye (I hear it's like a piece of sand that doesn't go away).
-Read through the directions before you start and lay out all the parts to make sure everything is there. Then don't lose any parts.
-Test fit the fins to the fin mounts and sand if the fit is too tight. I had trouble with my Arreaux when I added CA, then tried to snap the fin in and one didn't go all the way in. Terrible mess, but I got it almost all the way in just before the glue dried solid.
-I really worked hard on my Cheetah, but did a speed build on the Arreaux (tried to get the Arreaux ready for last launch last year, but couldn't attend). For the Cheetah I filled spirals and a number of phases of sanding and priming and it looks fantastic. I didn't fill the spirals in the Arreaux and while it looks good from afar, the spirals and rush paint job are noticeable up close. You often get out of it what you put into it. Filling spirals and doing a good paint job pays back lots, but can really hurt if it gets damaged.

Good luck with everything and I wish you a great build and launch!

Pics of my "Chester Cheetah":

Also just a suggestion, but if you haven't used RMS yet, try a SU Aerotech in the rocket for its first launch...less things to go wrong in my opinion and more likely to have a good first launch. Also I wouldn't want it to go too far on it's first flight.

Agreed with KenECoyote, CA is great for building these, but definitely test fit everything. However, be careful using BP motors (Estes E16 and F15) in the Strong Arm, as I think it's probably too heavy unless you have a long launch rail. Maybe try a single use Aerotech F for the first flight?

Great tips. Thank you.

SCrocketfan said:

Agreed with KenECoyote, CA is great for building these, but definitely test fit everything. However, be careful using BP motors (Estes E16 and F15) in the Strong Arm, as I think it's probably too heavy unless you have a long launch rail. Maybe try a single use Aerotech F for the first flight?

Click to expand...

SCrocketfan is right! Sorry...I currently fly mostly LP, so I call most anything BP, but I have a bunch of Aerotech SU motors for my Mid power rockets.

Great kit, you can't go wrong with any of the Aerotech kits. My brother is in the process of finishing up his Strong Arm, very nice looking mid power rocket. But like most of their mid-power rockets, if built well, they can easily handle an H motor.

- I would leave the engine hook out and decide on a retainer before you start building, get the retainer in hand and dry fit it to the MMT as you are assembling the MMT, fin locks and fins. At that stage you will be able to glue it on without any issue, otherwise you may not have enough MMT to grab onto for the MMT. The GLR slimline is a nice choice or if you're on a budget grab the new Aerotech plastic ones. I have never used them but I have read good initial reviews, you might want to dig deeper. I would also simply dry fit the retainer and assemble with dry fit so you can remove it and get into the aft end for easy painting, less to mask, although you still want to mas the MMT, but it is just easier to leave it to the last thing. Unless I need to mount mine before hand, I always put it on last, otherwise you're simply working around it.

- The other thing I would do is leave out the mesh and baffle as it will restrict what hardware you can use. If you still want to use the baffle you can always move it forward enough with a small MMT added and one CR, then you will have the best of both worlds.

- As others have said these Aerotech kits go together well with CA and the only other epoxy I would use for the retainer is JB weld.

- I will second the launch lugs, don't install them unless you only have access to a 1/4 rod, if you have access to a rail then just fill in the pre-cut slots and go with rail buttons, make sure you install them before the MMT. You can do this by simply flattening one of the CRs enough to slide by the back of the aft button. The forward button will be in your payload bay so it's less of an issue.

Have fun and do a buld thread with pics...I love seeing what others do as it's the best way to pick up tips.

Wow, some great tips, thank you.

Here's what I do to my AT kits, and I've built a bunch, some redundant from the previous suggestions:

1) Leave off the engine hook, use either masking tape retention, or a commercial 29mm retainer - usually need to shift the motor tube back a bit for this. AT is apparently switching over to their own screw on retainer soon.
2) Build with medium CA per instructions
3) Leave mesh & baffle per instructions, plenty of room for most H motors. Don't use the big red cap on AT RMS HPR motors to hold in the BP, use tape.
4) If just flying on F/G motors, use the included lugs, but add epoxy fillets to strengthen their attachment. Plenty strong.
5) If flying H motors, and perhaps high thrust G motors (e.g. G138) use rail buttons
6) Clean and sand the NC and Fins real well before painting, a lot of paints won't stick well to this plastic
7) Put an empty 29mm casing or spent motor in the engine tube while pressing in the fins into the fin-locks, provides a more solid backing to push against.

These are great kits!

Thanks for the reply. I havent started it but i,ve looked it over and I have ordered an extra set of rings. I want to have a ring flush with the end but removable for access to the fin locks.I dont like the idea of leaving the end open and vulnerable to damage. I also ordered some parts for an e-bay if I get really brave down the road. I also ordered a spare motor tube in case i find I want more room between the motor and baffle. I will be using the cti pro29 hardware and its pretty long.I will likely make a retainer out of CF or aluminum held on with a cple small screws.

krylon fusion works well on that kind of plastic, down side it doesn't play well with other types of paint.
Rex