rotary tool advise

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taiwanluthiers

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I need a rotary tool, because it's useful if I ever want to do guitar repairs but it's useful for rocketry too, but I heard Dremel can have problems with spindle play and for such an expensive tool they seem to have poor quality. My question is, are those harbor freight rotary tool about the same in terms of quality, or what else could I use? I know there's Foredom style tools but in this case they need to be portable, and Foredom isn't exactly portable.
 
12 volt dremel with two batteries is all you need.
I have a corded dremel and a Foredom they are rarely used any more.
Steer clear of the entire HF store!

JD
 
A couple of years ago I picked up a Sears Crasftsman LIon "dremel" for like $30. Love it.

Kevin
 
I have the HF rotary tool, which I've been using on rockets. Generally I'd say it's usable for what I'm doing with it, but being HF, I don't expect a massive amount of longevity to it. Also, it chews through bits in about 5 min of use, much less for the mini-cutoff wheels. Those are pretty much useless.
 
I find those cutoff wheels don't last long anyways, and also bits just generally don't last against G10 or filament wound tubes... unless it's carbide bit.
 
HF angle grinder and 4" cut off wheels work great for cutting G10, All thread, etc. Not a precision instrument, but gets the job done.
 
My primary concern is being able to use small Dremel buffing wheels for polishing small metal objects, but also burrs and cutoff wheels for various tasks...
 
My primary concern is being able to use small Dremel buffing wheels for polishing small metal objects, but also burrs and cutoff wheels for various tasks...

I've had and used Dremels Both Corded and Battery for ages. I use them for fine Woodworking, Inlay, and lots and lots of all Scale Rockets.
I recently purchased a pair of Dremel Micro rotary tools. These tools are as good as any Rotary tool i've every owned. A bit on the expensive side but they sit in permanent Charger/holders that keep them fully charged every time the tool is placed back on the holder. Adding a set of four various diameter Collets and a Self centering Dremel 4486 Chuck make these tools able to use all size bits, mill ends, polishing points and buffing wheels.
I've noticed 0% spindle play when used acording to the instructions. Even with the sometimes not so precision self centering chucks these Dremel Micros as the very best Rotary Tools I've had the pleasure of using. I've used Straight shank precision drill bits down to #80 with 0% spindle play.

I have and have used Foredom, Sears Craftsman, Harbor Freight and MCM Electronics DuraTool Rotary tools as well. For my Money I Strongly suggest the new Dremel Lith-ion Micro 8050-N-18 you won't be sorry.
Personally I only use the HFT rotary tool for very rough hog-out work as it does have some spindle play and when used on hardwoods some bit slip in the aluminum collets.

Dremel Model 8050-N-18 Micro-b_RotaryTool Accessories_03-19-15.jpg

Dremel Model 8050-N-18 Micro-a_Rotary Tool & Charger 89.00ea_02-19-15.jpg
 
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Just bought one of these from amazon and love it.
Black & Decker RTX-B
 
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After thinking about it, I decided to go with the Dremel 4200. I'm not so sure about cordless tool, even if it's Li Ion I just can't trust battery powered tool for dependable service. I seriously doubt I'll ever need the tool where I have no access to an outlet... As for spindle play and stuff I don't know. The primary reason for me to have them is for polishing frets after dressing (it is important that frets look shiny so customers know it was improved) however I'm sure it's good for slotting fiberglass tubes with carbide end mills...
 
Even the corded Dremels don't have enough power to handle an end mill.
you need a milling machine for that. You would wander all over place if you attempted it free hand any how.
A 12 volt can handle most if not all work a corded unit can do.
I upgraded few years ago from a 10.8 volt. It was a little weaker and would shut off if you overloaded it.
I still have the 10 volt and use it for sanding.

JD
 
We're talking about 3/32" end mills at the very most, I used them all the time for inlays. Sure, don't go milling steel or anything but wood and possibly even aluminum (which cuts almost like wood) will be no trouble.
 
Even the corded Dremels don't have enough power to handle an end mill.
you need a milling machine for that. You would wander all over place if you attempted it free hand any how.
A 12 volt can handle most if not all work a corded unit can do.
I upgraded few years ago from a 10.8 volt. It was a little weaker and would shut off if you overloaded it.
I still have the 10 volt and use it for sanding.

JD

JD you are simply so incorrect about Mill end use with Dremel Rotary tools!

I've been using mill-ends Up to 3/16" (FreeHand and in Drill Press) in most all of my current Dremel cordless and corded Dremels for YEARS. Currently I have in use Corded Dremels 260, 450, & 750's, Cordless 800 10.8v, 8000 10.8v, 8200 Lith-ion ,and brand new 8050-N-18 7.5v one of which currently has a 1/16" mill end in it. on occasion i've overloaded the 8200 using a 1/4" Mill end with 1/8" turndown shank but that is really stretching the limits;)
These Tools are mostly used on Model rocket projects these days with additional cabinet making and Detail inlay work in Teak, Mahogany, some Purple Heart and Zebra Wood. Several of the hardest woods on the planet.
It's all in letting the tool do the work not forcing it.
 
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I bet you could do aluminum too... If you take shallow cuts and use a high RPM. I've seen people mill aluminum with woodworking routers, and it can even be cut on a tablesaw with wood blades.
 
I bet you could do aluminum too... If you take shallow cuts and use a high RPM. I've seen people mill aluminum with woodworking routers, and it can even be cut on a tablesaw with wood blades.

Absolutely do. Both 3003-H14 and 5052-H32 Sheet and 6061-T6 & 6063-T51 aluminum alloys shapes. All models also do a fine job on Copper, Brass, Bronze and 280 Muntz Metal for engraving and filigree work. They do not have quite enough to route or mill in Stainless but will Drill Stainles (all alloys 303-to 416) with the right bits.
 
I have the $6 Harbor Freight tool and no the quality is poor. It vibrates like crazy until you put on enough load to slow it down. Nevertheless it's seriously useful, although not on much other than rockets. It actually came with more accessories by far than a base Dremel kit, many are useless although the cutoff wheels were very generous. Expect to spend at least another $6 on your favorite Dremel bit for it.
 
Our family had always been big endorsers for the but a nice one and you save money in the long run because you won't have to replace/ fix it. I guess it all matters if you have the money to do that, and what you plan to use it for.
 
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