E-bay for Wildman 54/38mm thin wall kits?

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SCrocketfan

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Hi all,
I'm going to be building a Wildman Vindicator Jr with thin walled tubing soon and was wondering about how to set up the Electronics Bay. I don't have much time to build right now so I was wondering if a Bluetube 54mm av-bay would work instead of gathering all the parts and building my own using the included FG parts. Any suggestions?
Thanks,
-SC
 
The blue tube e-bays are a good way to get started.

That was my idea. Build and fly a kit or two with av-bay kits and then start building my own. Will the BT av-bay fit the thin wall FWFG ok? It's 54mm so ID should definitely be right, but I'm not sure about OD.
 
Just grab a 6 inch coupler, vent band and a pair of coupler bulkheads and a pair of airframe bulkheads from the Wildman ..

The rest is hardware and I would recommend some aluminum all thread to save some weight.

Hit up doghouse for terminal blocks, rotary switch , small charge wells and even some wiring.

Kenny
 
Just grab a 6 inch coupler, vent band and a pair of coupler bulkheads and a pair of airframe bulkheads from the Wildman ..

The rest is hardware and I would recommend some aluminum all thread to save some weight.

Hit up doghouse for terminal blocks, rotary switch , small charge wells and even some wiring.

Kenny

I have the vent band, bulkheads, and coupler that came with the kit but don't exactly know how to set up the all-thread, that's why I wanted to try an Av-bay with all the parts. What hardware would I need to use the stock av-bay? I've never built a dual deploy style av-bay.
 
That was my idea. Build and fly a kit or two with av-bay kits and then start building my own. Will the BT av-bay fit the thin wall FWFG ok? It's 54mm so ID should definitely be right, but I'm not sure about OD.

Blue tube avionics bay is a coupler meant to fit inside the tubing. It will fit into the tubing just fine.
 
Check out the 3D printed AV-bay sleds from Landru. They make a very neat av-bay set up.
 
Blue tube avionics bay is a coupler meant to fit inside the tubing. It will fit into the tubing just fine.

Yes, meant to fit into blue tube.... This is asking about Blue tube coupler inside Wildman's thin wall fiberglass tubing.
 
Those look great. How do they mount and remove though?

All you need to do is drill 2 hole that fit the size all thread you use lined up in the middle of the blue-plate. Use the sled to measure where to drill them on the "X-axis". Use a nut on each side of the blue-plate to hold the all thread in place. (only on one blue-plate). On the other drill the 2 holes in the same spot, slide your altered/bulkplate into coupler, insert sled and cap coupler off with the 2nd blue-plate using 2 nuts to secure it in place.
 
All you need to do is drill 2 hole that fit the size all thread you use lined up in the middle of the blue-plate. Use the sled to measure where to drill them on the "X-axis". Use a nut on each side of the blue-plate to hold the all thread in place. (only on one blue-plate). On the other drill the 2 holes in the same spot, slide your altered/bulkplate into coupler, insert sled and cap coupler off with the 2nd blue-plate using 2 nuts to secure it in place.

Thanks. I take it the bulk plates on both ends of the coupler unbolt for access like a normal sled?
 
I have the vent band, bulkheads, and coupler that came with the kit but don't exactly know how to set up the all-thread, that's why I wanted to try an Av-bay with all the parts. What hardware would I need to use the stock av-bay? I've never built a dual deploy style av-bay.

I like the wildman set up because it works well and i dont have to measure a whole bunch.

Buy a length of all thread from home depot.. and get matching nuts and washers. Cut two lengths of all thread 3/4 of an inch or slightly longer than your coupler with a hack saw (a vise helps). ..and you should be in business.

I would not glue the vent band on the coupler until you figure your switch and sled arrangements mounted in your new av bay.

Kenny
 
Thanks. I take it the bulk plates on both ends of the coupler unbolt for access like a normal sled?


I tend to make one side unbolt from a blue-plate for access to the sled and everything and have the all thread permanently attached to the other bulkplate.
 
Here, this should help.
https://www.rocketryforum.com/showt...ld-or-Wildman-s-oop-s-quot-did-I-do-that-quot

I don't show the sled.....but here's the one I use. Leaves a ton of room. All the Jr's build the same. [av-bays]

View attachment 255825 View attachment 255826 View attachment 255827

or get one of the printed sled first, then measure for the tie rod holes.

Thanks. Just wondering now, how durable is the double dip fin method in that build? Seems much easier than injecting internal fillets.
 
I used the blue tube on mine and it worked out just fine. Treated it just as I would if it were fiberglass and it worked perfectly. I have since changed it to fiberglass as I used the blue tube on another blue tube project.
 
Thanks. Just wondering now, how durable is the double dip fin method in that build? Seems much easier than injecting internal fillets.

Well that's kinda of a toughie there....

If you build it exactly like I did, I can guarantee it will handle all kinds of abuse.
Anything you can throw at it. My build was the prototype for the kits, and Tim [Wildman] and I have both flown and tried to make it fail....it hasn't
Use the same glue, same size fillets, same amount of pins & rivets, etc. Add more or less hardener to resin & all bets are off. I can't control how others interpret the build.
This build IS the instructions for the kit.
Deviate from that and it's hard to tell.

It's flown on 6xl motors the biggest that will fit, been yanked out of trees, suffered from bouncing around in the motor home carrier under tons of other rockets for thousands of miles.[probably way worse than any flying it has seen]

I have since converted it to a 2-stage, [once again the first Jr 2-stage proto]where it's even seen more/worse abuse. Survived it all with nothing more than scratched paint.
So you you decide.
Too many times I have shown a specific type of build, to find some one complaining, but they changed the process then wonder why it didn't work for them.
Built light,strong and as simple as possible....my mantra.

DSCN2170.jpg
 
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I assume you want two separation points? For my same sized Nuke Pro Max I packed it all into the payload bay, and wired out a lead for firing cable cutters. It was definitely tight, but not too bad. I cut a piece of molding scrap to the exact length, drilled a bunch of tie down holes into it, and secured it to a coupler on one end. Simple and worked great. In any case, the key was mounting it all long and narrow.
 
Well that's kinda of a toughie there....

If you build it exactly like I did, I can guarantee it will handle all kinds of abuse.
Anything you can throw at it. My build was the prototype for the kits, and Tim [Wildman] and I have both flown and tried to make it fail....it hasn't
Use the same glue, same size fillets, same amount of pins & rivets, etc. Add more or less hardener to resin & all bets are off. I can't control how others interpret the build.
This build IS the instructions for the kit.
Deviate from that and it's hard to tell.

It's flown on 6xl motors the biggest that will fit, been yanked out of trees, suffered from bouncing around in the motor home carrier under tons of other rockets for thousands of miles.[probably way worse than any flying it has seen]

I have since converted it to a 2-stage, [once again the first Jr 2-stage proto]where it's even seen more/worse abuse. Survived it all with nothing more than scratched paint.
So you you decide.
Too many times I have shown a specific type of build, to find some one complaining, but they changed the process then wonder why it didn't work for them.
Built light,strong and as simple as possible....my mantra.
Thanks. I think I'll inject internals just for the bit of extra strength.
 
I assume you want two separation points? For my same sized Nuke Pro Max I packed it all into the payload bay, and wired out a lead for firing cable cutters. It was definitely tight, but not too bad. I cut a piece of molding scrap to the exact length, drilled a bunch of tie down holes into it, and secured it to a coupler on one end. Simple and worked great. In any case, the key was mounting it all long and narrow.

Yeah this is standard double break (drogueless) dual deploy. The setup on your NPM is definitely something I'll try though, sometime soon…

My plan now is to get a blue tube AV bay after all.
 
Thanks. Could I use the FG vent band from the kit?

Unfortunately no, the OD on the vent band of the blue tube is for standard tubing and not the thin wall. What you can do is cut a 1" piece off the thin wall tube and use that as your vent band.
 
Unfortunately no, the OD on the vent band of the blue tube is for standard tubing and not the thin wall. What you can do is cut a 1" piece off the thin wall tube and use that as your vent band.

Ok, thanks. The vent band I have though is included in the kit and is the same tubing as the airframe though, so could I probably use that instead of cutting the airframe?
 
Your other option is to go without a switchband. If your airframe is already separated it is a little more difficult, but not too bad with round switches. Essentially, there are half-moons on both sides of the switches. your vent holes are drilled into the coupler where the two airframes come together. Looks a lot better in my opinion and it is more aerodynamic as well.

The reason why it is more difficult to do this when your airframe is already in two pieces is that you have to have a smaller hole in your coupler than you have for your airframe since the switch is flanged out. What you do in this situation is to tape the two sections of airframe together along with your coupler tube and drill the smaller diameter hole for the coupler. Then you take the sections apart and with a circular sanding tool on the end of a Dremmel you expand the two hole sections on the airframe.

If you are going to cut your airframe, drill the appropriate diameter hole in the center of the coupler. drill the hole in the airframe so that it is bisected where you want to cut your airframe. Then cut your airframe. The beauty of this process is that if your airframe isn't perfectly cut, it still comes together with a real fine seam because the imperfections are uniform.

A number of people in our club are doing this.

IMG_1269.jpg
 
Your other option is to go without a switchband. If your airframe is already separated it is a little more difficult, but not too bad with round switches. Essentially, there are half-moons on both sides of the switches. your vent holes are drilled into the coupler where the two airframes come together. Looks a lot better in my opinion and it is more aerodynamic as well.

The reason why it is more difficult to do this when your airframe is already in two pieces is that you have to have a smaller hole in your coupler than you have for your airframe since the switch is flanged out. What you do in this situation is to tape the two sections of airframe together along with your coupler tube and drill the smaller diameter hole for the coupler. Then you take the sections apart and with a circular sanding tool on the end of a Dremmel you expand the two hole sections on the airframe.

If you are going to cut your airframe, drill the appropriate diameter hole in the center of the coupler. drill the hole in the airframe so that it is bisected where you want to cut your airframe. Then cut your airframe. The beauty of this process is that if your airframe isn't perfectly cut, it still comes together with a real fine seam because the imperfections are uniform.

A number of people in our club are doing this.

View attachment 256385

Cool, thanks. Funny decals BTW. I'm probably not building this rocket until the summer so I have a bit of time to decide on the plan, but this seems like a nice method.
 
Guys take CJs would for it if a rocket can make it through the WM motor home cargo hole the biggest motor will never kill it.
Right CJ
 
Ok, thanks. The vent band I have though is included in the kit and is the same tubing as the airframe though, so could I probably use that instead of cutting the airframe?

Yes that works great. The one Eeebee posted are great for Mach flights in my opinion.
 
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