Dynasoar Rocketry RC Rocket glider kits

Just a lick of paint and it will be good as new

Here are all the flights, the cato is at the end.

[video=youtube;zn4g___Voc4]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zn4g___Voc4[/video]

As usual, things looked bad, but it only took about 15 minutes to trim out the melted foam and cut some insert pieces and glue them in place, there were a few scorch marks I couldn't clean off but overall it's not too bad and hidden by the vertical stabs for the most part.

Hey, Frank.

What did you think about the mpf foam, the Model Plane Foam when it arrived and you used it?

I am guessing that yours arrived and you have tried it by now.....

BTW, I started the all Depron version of that old Hawk XAB-1 Atomic Powered Bomber that I posted in your Interceptor thread....

If I do a tube version later, it will get an Interceptor nose cone for sure.

Tom, it was ok, but I wasn't convinced to convert from depron. It is a bit softer and more flexible, the finish isn't quite as smooth and it is a bit thinner. for my kits I would have had to re-do templates to accomodate the thickness difference and probably reinforce some areas so it wasn't really worth it. I think for built up models where you are doing formers and plates or skinning it's probably just as good at about 2/3 the price.

Frank

tab28682 said:

Hey, Frank.

What did you think about the mpf foam, the Model Plane Foam when it arrived and you used it?

I am guessing that yours arrived and you have tried it by now.....

BTW, I started the all Depron version of that old Hawk XAB-1 Atomic Powered Bomber that I posted in your Interceptor thread....

If I do a tube version later, it will get an Interceptor nose cone for sure.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the report.... Good info to know.

I've tried to check out your website at

https://www.dynasoarrocketry.com

but it is not particularly phone friendly

I'm very interested in knowing more about your kits, but I just have to say...

I've read over only a few pages of this post, and your price point was brought up a few times.

These kits are made by hand, one at a time, by one person. They are not punched out by the thousands by automated machines, in who knows what part of the planet.

The fact that the designer/manufacturer is (IMO) a highly talented and respected member of this forum is a -huge- incentive for me.

Think of the vendors here..it seems the most reliable of them are not only active, but actually pro-active members! Many have very loyal, repeat customers, by a trust that has been -earned-.

Good luck in trying to talk to the person that designed it, pushed the button that made it, or even the person that shipped the foamy plane you may have bought from 'Brand X Hobby Store'.

When I am able to get into RC BG, Frank will most certainly be the first person I'll go to!


Keep up the great work

I've tried to make my web page as simple and as useful as possible and easy to read, I realize that some of the pulldowns aren't mobile friendly, unfortunately the way go-daddy works to get a mobile friendly version costs $$, so I'm hoping that it is good enough for browsing on mobile to see if it is interesting, then people can use a tablet or laptop if they really want to dig in to the instructions, download the free plans, etc.

Frank

BTW I will be at NARCON, I'll have a table with some pictures/specs of the models, I can't bring anything with me, but I'll be around if you want to talk about the kits or anything else, i'm going to try to get a 10 minute window to give a presentation on them if possible.

Frank

Here's a video of a nice flight in a bit of a wind at Tri-cities yesterday.

[video=youtube;Yqm0wbepGoU]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yqm0wbepGoU[/video]

Nice Flight Frank!

Why did you call it a Mach 2, when it was based on the Mach 10?

Well, it's an Homage, not a true mach 10 since it doesn't eject anything, it clearly was a subsonic design to begin with so Mach 10 was a bit pretentious to begin with, and Mach 2 sounded cooler than Mach 1.....there you have it....

Frank

K'Tesh said:

Nice Flight Frank!

Why did you call it a Mach 2, when it was based on the Mach 10?

Click to expand...

I thought you were just reading Mach '10' as binary.

Charles_McG said:

I thought you were just reading Mach '10' as binary.

Click to expand...

There are 10 types of people in the world: Those who understand binary, and those who don't. :/

I like the binary explanation better than mine, I'll use that from now on

....

Here's the other RC flight I did this weekend, this is the updated IntR/Ceptor kit prototype without tail surfaces, flying on an E-6. This is the one that got damaged by a Quest D-5 cato that burned a 3" by 1" hole forward of the motor mount, but I was able to splice in and repair it. The video looks a bit funny on boost, the rocket went straight overhead and my son sort of lost it a couple of times, but you can see it handled the 10mph winds pretty well and landed almost vertically. The kit flies as well or better than the original but is easier for me to create and uses slightly less parts so I was able to cut the cost a few dollars and pass that to you. It also has a little higher boost and will come in at just about 8 ounces ready to fly so will be under the drone registration weight cutoff limit.

[video=youtube;YYqJSdUlj5I]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YYqJSdUlj5I[/video]

McKailas Dad said:

I've tried to check out your website at

https://www.dynasoarrocketry.com

but it is not particularly phone friendly

I'm very interested in knowing more about your kits, but I just have to say...

I've read over only a few pages of this post, and your price point was brought up a few times.

These kits are made by hand, one at a time, by one person. They are not punched out by the thousands by automated machines, in who knows what part of the planet.

The fact that the designer/manufacturer is (IMO) a highly talented and respected member of this forum is a -huge- incentive for me.

Think of the vendors here..it seems the most reliable of them are not only active, but actually pro-active members! Many have very loyal, repeat customers, by a trust that has been -earned-.

Good luck in trying to talk to the person that designed it, pushed the button that made it, or even the person that shipped the foamy plane you may have bought from 'Brand X Hobby Store'.

When I am able to get into RC BG, Frank will most certainly be the first person I'll go to!


Keep up the great work

Click to expand...

Couldn't agree with this post more! Can't wait to get my first one built and flying!

Just got a great photo of one of my Mach 2 kits from Rob Dedrick, he used stickershock markings and a german eastern front winter pattern for the paint, I think it looks great!

Frank

Here is my latest version, in a Navy scheme used by the Pax River test pilot school on an F-8U Crusader, the tail and wing tips are vinyl, the tail tip is flat black testors spray and the body is flat gray from testors.
Some black vinyl for the anti-glare and wing walk stripes, red for the intake arrow and blue for the windows. I used some left over stars and bars from stickershock, and some black letters/numbers from office depot, however I ran out of Y's to complete the Navy...there was only one per sheet....Then added some sharpie marker panel lines.

These are sort of like the zooch lifting bodies, I keep coming up with neat color schemes to try on them....

Frank

Like those new Mach 2 schemes a lot!

I'm planning to fly Frank's X-15 and SR-71 this coming weekend. I ran into a peculiarity with the o-ring for the E6 motor reload. The Aerotech reload comes with only one 3/32"x7/8" aft o-ring with the 3 reload kit, so that the user needs to re-use the o-ring for the subsequent flights. Since I lost the o-ring from the first flight, I had to find a new one. Luckily, I had several 24 mm reload kits and I was able to borrow o-rings from those kits.



Frank provides some lead weights with his kits that come in handy. I found that with the 2s (or two cell, I believe) battery, I only needed two of the 7g (or 1/4 oz.) weights to achieve the right c.g. However, with the 1s (or 3.7v) battery I needed to move the battery as far forward as possible and needed a full oz. of weight. The nice thing about the 1s battery is that it does not require the bec.

I had good flights with the SR-71 and the X-15 on Saturday ,which is pretty good considering my R/C skills.

For both of my models the engine clip was a tiny bit too short. Perhaps, I used too much glue somewhere. In any case I put some masking tape around the aft end of the motor case and that held the motors in place. Remember there is no ejection charge. The tape came off easily afterwards. I remembered to keep the aft o-ring after clean-up.

At Frank's recommendation I used a 6' rod (1/4" dia.). I wonder if this is absolutely necessary, but the flights were both straight up. Also, I kept the transmitter (I think some people call this an Orange, because both the transmitter and the receiver are orange almost clear plastic.) on the entire time after powering up. The directions say to power up the receiver first and then turn on the transmitter. It does take a a few seconds for the transmitter and the receiver to bind or connect.

Even though everything was powered up I kept my hands off the stick during the boost. Frank helped on trying the flap control on my transmitter, but I couldn't find it. I told him I could use the trim button. However, as Frank said things can get hectic and it ended up that I didn't want to use the trim button during flight. The response of the models is quick and they glide easily, so I found that a little bit of "up" was enough to correct things. It seemed to me that the hang time for the SR-71 was longer than the X-15, but it could have been the wind conditions or my imagination. I noticed that I could give the SR-71 some "down" nose, but it would start to do a steep dive. This could be corrected with a jab of the up-nose. The SR-71 was going behind the flight line and we had two lines of parked cars. However, I was able to bring it around to just the other side of the flight line. I do not have the long shallow glides that Frank has, which is probably due to a lack of practice. I flared the SR-71 nose up a little bit too early and didn't have enough speed for a second flare, so there was a little bit of nose damage on our hard desert launch site. Frank has got reinforcement on the nose, so the damage is easily repairable. The X-15 took a little bit of damage on the lower aft fin. Again, Frank has a reinforce polystyrene strip there that helps. There is a hairline crack near there for which I think that some thin glue will help. I am wondering if some CA with accelerator will work. I need to find CA accelarator.

I didn't do anything fancy on the Orange transmitter settings. I just changed mostly the "sub-trim" to keep the elevons neutral for boost.

Bob, you can use foam safe ca and normal accellerator.
I think the shallow glide is really determined by my glide trim setting, as you get used to them you can try some more up trim.having the ability to put it on a switch is really helpful, I'm bummed we couldn't set he orange TX to do that.
I think the 6' rod/rail is necessary especially if you have any gusts on launch.

Glad the flights went well

Frank

aerostadt said:

I'm planning to fly Frank's X-15 and SR-71 this coming weekend. I ran into a peculiarity with the o-ring for the E6 motor reload. The Aerotech reload comes with only one 3/32"x7/8" aft o-ring with the 3 reload kit, so that the user needs to re-use the o-ring for the subsequent flights. Since I lost the o-ring from the first flight, I had to find a new one. Luckily, I had several 24 mm reload kits and I was able to borrow o-rings from those kits.

View attachment 285200 View attachment 285201

Frank provides some lead weights with his kits that come in handy. I found that with the 2s (or two cell, I believe) battery, I only needed two of the 7g (or 1/4 oz.) weights to achieve the right c.g. However, with the 1s (or 3.7v) battery I needed to move the battery as far forward as possible and needed a full oz. of weight. The nice thing about the 1s battery is that it does not require the bec.

View attachment 285204 View attachment 285205

Click to expand...

They look fantastic!

I have my RC RGs set up on a higher end TX (Spektrum DX9) that offers multiple flight modes. I have one flight mode set for boost with everything at neutral, plus any tiny boost trim needed, if any. Just before apogee, I hit the flight mode switch for the second flight mode, glide mode, and it automatically sets the exact amount of up trim needed for glide.

For all my RC RGs, I use the same flight mode switch, which is user selectable. It happens to be the switch normally used for channel 5/retracts for normal RC models.

I have been setting the glide trim on my profile models by hand gliding the model before the first flight with an empty motor case plus a bit of ballast to simulate the remainder of the RMS reload. Has been working very well so far.

Here are some flights from today, my X-plane with the full decal set from stickershock and my Navy version of the mach 2.

Frank
[video=youtube;QJy9XAPvddQ]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QJy9XAPvddQ[/video]
[video=youtube;52ZouC1Q1XQ]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=52ZouC1Q1XQ[/video]

I was looking into whether or not to do a kit of this, RC, price is going to come in around $62 shipped priority, Weight is around 11 oz, really nice glide/boost behavior, wingspan 24", length 41" 2.6" diameter(bt-80) ....For those of you that believe a rocket has to have a tube involved Any interest? Would include flange nuts, rail buttons, all parts. This is pretty quick to assemble.



[video=youtube;v2VHf4q7_0M]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v2VHf4q7_0M[/video]

You are killing my budget but, yes I'm interested.

burkefj said:

I was looking into whether or not to do a kit of this, RC, price is going to come in around $62 shipped priority, Weight is around 11 oz, really nice glide/boost behavior, wingspan 24", length 41" 2.6" diameter(bt-80) ....For those of you that believe a rocket has to have a tube involved Any interest? Would include flange nuts, rail buttons, all parts. This is pretty quick to assemble.

View attachment 286886View attachment 286887

[video=youtube;n02EVjrv-gE]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n02EVjrv-gE[/video]

Click to expand...

Oh yes, super cool!